Learning a little more about how to better care for your vehicles is a good idea for any number of reasons. It allows you to know if an unscrupulous mechanic is attempting to gouge you on your repairs – and that will save you money. It can prevent you from making unnecessary repairs – and that will save you money. It can help you locate a problem and fix it early, thus saving more money – sometimes a whole lot of money. It allows you to be more independent in an era where people are entirely too dependent on others to survive.

We need to get started now, so that we have time to cover everything…

Some people are incredibly sensitive to the sounds their vehicles make. This is especially true of motorcyclists, those who refurbish vintage automobiles, and experienced mechanics. It’s a very worthwhile skill to develop. There are mechanics who can listen to a running car engine and tell if the timing is slightly off, or the injectors are not operating properly. While this is a very neat thing to be able to do, you do not have to elevate your listening skills to that lofty place in order to get benefits from listening to your vehicle.

Listen To the Engine (This is best done in relatively quiet surroundings until you get really good at it.) Open up the hood of your vehicle’s engine compartment. If necessary on your model, be sure to use the metal rod to lock the hood in the upright/open position. Now, start your engine. Allow the engine to run for 30-60 seconds before you start listening too hard. Also, there are many moving parts inside of engine compartments, don’t wear loose clothing, and mind all your fingers and hair! Safety first.

A brief word about engine sounds… All engines make sounds. Some sound like jets, and other have constant clicking noises, or humming, or clattering. Which sounds are consistently made, and are okay, are unique to your specific vehicle’s engine. The point being, don’t be alarmed the first time you really take a good listen to your engine. You’ll quickly learn the sounds that are okay, and the ones that are not.

You’re going to listen to your engine from three different positions: 1) Directly in front of the car. 2) On the left (driver’s side) side of the engine compartment. 3) On the right (passenger’s side) side of the engine compartment. I like to start I like to start on the left – right in front of the driver’s door.

Lean over the engine compartment (again – be careful with clothing, hair, and appendages) and listen carefully. Try closing your eyes to heighten your hearing. Listen for things that don’t sound ‘right.’ Such things might include: clattering, metal rubbing metal, clanging, and squeaks. If you hear such a thing, open your eyes and try to focus in on it – moving the position of your head and ears as your track the sound to its source. Repeat this process at all three positions previously described.

This method of checking your engine can reveal loose caps, loose fan belts, loose fans, missing bolts, nuts, and many other things. Correct what you are able to, and have anything else dealt with by a service technician. Don’t put your hands into your engine compartment to tighten something or check something while it is running. If you notice that the stays on the overflow tube are loose and rattling, turn off the engine before tightening.

Driving your car for a short distance over a good road with the radio and air conditioning off and the windows down is a good way to hear some other sounds. Clattering might mean you have a lug nut that came off, and it’s stuck inside the hubcap. A metal-rubbing-metal sound may be a stuck brake.

The last listening project/technique is the best – or at least so people tell me. This one requires a willing and able assistant. The two of you climb into the vehicle together – you drive, the assistant rides shotgun. The assistant will require four things: some WD-40, a notepad, a small can of 3-in-1 oil, and a good rag. Head for a road that isn’t so smooth, and simply drive along. The assistant listens for those irritating squeaks, squeals, and rattles.

The assistant should move around inside the vehicle, focusing on the sounds to locate their sources. One of the two lubricants will fix almost any squeaking – and the rag ensures a nice, tidy application of the chosen lubricant. Some things, such as loose or missing screws or bolts, should be recorded on the notepad for maintenance or repair later, when you get back home to the tools. You won’t believe how quiet your cockpit becomes after you perform this process once or twice.

Okay, you’ve completed another step in becoming a full-fledged automotive diagnostician – or something like that, anyway. You’ve definitely gotten your vehicle in much better condition, and you should have learned a thing or two. Check out Part I – See No Evil, and Part III – Smell No Evil.

So you just got a stock V6 Mustang and you want to make it faster. Well there are a few things you will or should know before you consider this. As im sure a few older gents on here would back me up on this post so here we go.

1. What are your long term goals for this new car?

2. What is your current budget to spend on this car?

3. Do you want to make it a daily driver? Trailer queen? or road course?

4. What is you basic knowledge of vehicles and electrical systems?

5. Do you have the time?

Alot of people want the fastest car, the best looking car or the loudest car. That is becuase everyone who owns a mustang gets the itch. And im not talking about down there, im talking about the power itch, the speed itch, the ability to take that corner at 55 and come out running. With most major bolt on mods, you can do them yourself with some specialty tools and a good set of hand tools. Some require welding, which most places can do for a flat rate of “X” amount of dollars where “X” is the hourly shop rate.

Now were going to get into the specific mods.

CAI- Cold Air Intake.

There are many different type of CAI available on the market. The fender well CAI places the air filter in the fender well to get cool air as it rushes under the passenger headlight. This is an excellent first mod, because all you need are some hand tools and the instructions.

Plastic vs. Metal

These are the two types of materials CAI come in. Some people like the metal chrome brushed ones because it adds a nice look under the hood. Unfortunately Metal heats up from outside sources(ie., engine bay) and internal friction of the air passing through it. Plastic on the other hand stays cool because it is not a conductor of heat. the engine bay heat or air friction will not cause this intake to heat up.

Mass Air Sensor and Housing

This is the peice that is inside your stock air box, and is, in my opinion, one of the bottle necks on the intakes today. The Mass Air Sensor, or MAS, measures the amount of air comming into the engine and sends that information to the ECU, where the ECU does its thing and tell Mr. Fuel Injector’s how much fuel to dump in accordance to the Air Fuel mixture. Lets say you have a 3″ (76.1mm) CAI and a stock MAS. You’ll be pulling in alot of air fairly quickly @ Wide open Throttle, or WOT. Lets do a in home test, if you have a cylindrical container about 6-12″ long get it. If it is open on both ends, blow threw it, and what happened? The air came out the other side with no problems, right? Now cover up 1/3rd of the other end and try again, little harder? Same concept on your intake. Still need convincing? Have you ever tried to vacuum up something to big for the vacuum? kinda struggled didn’t it? exactly.

Throttle Body

This is one of those black sheep parts where bigger isnt better. 99+ Stock I think has a 65mm Throttle Body, or TB from now on. If your not turbo, supered or No2′ed this mod shouldn’t be in the future until after a Power Adder, or PA.

Headers

Well, once again this is another mod that doesn’t really do anything for your vehicle unless you have significant mods and are going for a PA in the future, otherwise, youll get some hourse of “Fun”

Exhaust

The second mod most people will do if not the first on their mustang. When concidering an exhaust you have to take into account that a V6 will never sound like a V8, its impossible unless you buy 2 more cylinders. The stock V6 exhaust comes out of each exhaust manifold and “Y”’s into on right after the catalytic converters. When buying a kit, you can either look for one that is complete, meaning comes with the Y adapter and passenger side hangers for the muffler and tailpipe. Or you can piece together one for a few bucks cheaper and hope it all fits. My advice, dont go cheap, becuase you get what you pay for. Which brings me to backpressure. When your choosing your exhaust make sure you dont go over 2.5″ or else youll lose backpressure. without backpressure the V6 will hate you and will not run right at all. You can go bigger then 2.5″ if your Turboed or Supercharged, other then that I wouldnt recommend it.

Exhaust Tips

We can get this one from our axis the ricers. Exhaust tips dont add HP they add noise, it is more of a placebo effect when you add 3.5″ tips on your 2.5″ exhaust, you think it is faster becuase the box says “adds upto 5 RWHP!!!” well it doesnt. But when you get in your car sounds louder then it did before, so you think its faster.

Under Drive Pulleys

There are a few out there some are cheap and some are expensive. What to look for when buying a set is the hardware they come with, instructions and a package deal. RPM-Outlet has 42% MotoBlue Underdrive Pulleys, or UDP from now on, for around $208 shipped. If you have a big stereo in your car, I would say 2000-5000Watts, you really want to be carefull of the UDP’s. They will slow your accessories a certain %, and could affect your cooling, charging and Air Condition. They wont affect every car, but there is a possibility. Steeda and ARP have some 25% UDP which are a little more expensive and, well your paying for the name mostly. Installation is about a 1-2 hour job depending on your mechanical level. Hint: A pulley Puller helps installation.

When it comes to RC cars, electricity saves you money, but gas makes it real. Gas powered RC cars go faster, sound more realistic and give you the thrill of the race in a way that their electrically controlled counterparts just can’t do. Of course, you have to understand that when you hear the term gas powered RC cars, you’re really not talking about gasoline.

Gas powered RC cars are actually powered by a fuel combination more often referred to as nitro. But even if you don’t actually put gasoline into the cars, gas powered RC cars still look for all the world like miniature automobiles as they zoom at high speeds around the track.

Gas powered RC cars have engines that require fine tuning and that roar with all the excitement of a full sized car. In fact, the faster they go, the louder they get, just like the real thing. The excitement of racing gas powered RC cars doesn’t end with the sounds however. As they face like lightning, vapor trails of exhaust shadow their route. That’s a sight that you just can’t get from electrically controlled RC cars.

Aside from the cool sounds and sights, there are some other differences. Typical gas powered RC cars get owe their higher sense of realism to an internal combustion engine. The “gas” is actually a nitro methane fuel mixed with lubricating oil to protect the engine. The replace for a real car’s spark plugs in gas powered RC cars is something called a glow plug.

This plug is heated by a battery-powered starter that continuously ignites the fuel, allowing gas powered RC cars to race far longer at a time than electric ones. Unless, that is, your glow plug goes out on you. Because this eventuality is not exactly unknown in the world of gas powered RC racing, it always pay to invest in a backup or two.

If you are still reading this, that means you are probably new to the world of gas powered RC cars and maybe haven’t even bought one yet. Rather than starting out with a top of the line model, you should probably go for entry-level car. Most of these models don’t need electric starters because they come with pull-starters like a go-kart engine. If you do get one that comes without this, you’ll have to invest in a starter. You have a choice here: either an electric starter box or a 12V starter with a car adaptor.

Gas powered RC cars bring the excitement of RC car racing to another level. The sounds, the sights and even the smells of a race between gas powered RC cars are so much more realistic than a race between electric cars. If you are looking to get in on one of the fastest growing hobbies in America and you truly want to experience it to the ultimate, then gas powered RC cars is really your only choice.

Many people claim to worry about the environment, but continue to drive their exhaust polluting vehicles through a thick layer of smog. Our energy resources are suffering a terrible blow and so few people are actually willing to do anything about it. One solution to consider is the use of a hybrid vehicle. They emit less pollution that a standard oil burning type and offer less gas used per mile! Imagine the savings. But that’s not the only reason you should consider a hybrid.

The EPA or Environmental Protection Agency, when doing a comparison between a hybrid and regular vehicle, finds some very interesting facts. Vehicles are tested to determine what type of emissions they are polluting into the air we breathe, then they are rated by those conclusions. Among their choice vehicles, the hybrid along with SUV’s and eventually minivan’s are the pick of the liter! The Toyota Camry puts out more than half of what its hybrid counterpart, the Toyota Prius hybrid does, in carbon dioxide. Nitrogen oxide and hydrocarbons are diminished by two-thirds and halves supported by their green house emission rating for pollutants. With the exception of trucks, hybrid vehicles have the more favorable of ratings and top their categories over and over. When faced with the fact that hybrids put 97% less pollutants and toxins into the air when compared with gas-burning vehicles, it becomes harder to justify why we continue to drive the latter.

Hybrids are the better choice for so many reasons, including the evidence that they emit fewer pollutants and the fact that they get phenomenally better mpg, between 20 and 30 for larger engine models likes trucks or SUV’s and well into the 60 range for cars! Manuals traditionally get better mpg than automatics, which is evident by the Honda Insight whose automatic gets 50mpg and middle 60’s for it’s manual. Aside from being more efficient, the greenhouse effect and fossil fuel debate would be null and void by the use of hybrid only vehicles. It’s unfortunate that our vehicles only allow for 15 to 18mpg, but can that argument really justify the damage they are doing to our environment? Society as a whole needs to get serious about conserving our fuel, and hybrid vehicles are definitely a step in the right direction.

Have you ever been stuck in traffic on a hot day, in a busy city? How was the air quality around you? Could you take a deep breath and exhale on a smile? Probably not. It’s not just the environment we need to concern ourselves with. Our bodies and health suffer from the effects of carbon monoxide and methane, being emitted into the air by our vehicles. We are doing damage to our lungs everyday. Did you know that one third of all air pollution in America is in direct relation to that which our vehicles output? Researchers are studying the effects these pollutants have on the human body as we speak and direct links to cancer are being found. Sounds scary doesn’t it? Yet another reason why hybrid cars are the better, more health conscious choice.

If you could reduce the amount of carbon dioxide being polluted into the air by 10 tons, would you? The fact of the matter is, 1 vehicle getting 25mpg instead of 20mpg, would do exactly that. The EPA measures the effects these pollutants have on all living things and reports its findings on every industry. Today, with the advance in our technology, there is no reason for the continued desecration of our environment by the use of these inefficient, toxic vehicles. Yes, it’s true there is much left to learn and the EPA is continually breaking ground and finding new solutions to old problems. How we put the information they provide us with, to use, is up to us. We are responsible for our world and our bodies and in the long run, it is the population as a whole who will undoubtedly have to answer for our actions or lack thereof.

Welcome back to part two of my article series. This mini-used car buying guide is a compilation list of my most important questions to ask when buying a used car.

To recap from part one, over the phone we want to make clever inquiry to see if we can establish with some certainty that the seller is not a private car dealer. Then we ask them questions to determine whether how long they have owned the car and if they are the original owner. The final area covered in part 1 was to pay close attention to the sense we get from the seller’s response to our asking about their reasons for selling. If we are satisfied with the outcome of this initial round, it is time to get a bit more specific.

One of my top questions to ask about buying a used car is whether it has a gas or diesel engine. This may not be applicable unless you are looking for a diesel, as the vast majority of cars only come with a gas motor. However, if you are looking for incredible economy and bulletproof reliability, you will want to consider buying a car equipped with a diesel or even better, a turbo diesel engine. VW Jettas and Golfs are and were and still are built with both gas and diesel motors, and those motors last a long, long time!

Ask them how many kilometers or miles are on the car? For a gas engine, anything much over 250,000 km or 150,000 miles is a bit too much, unless the car has been meticulously maintained. In the case of a diesel engine, 300,000 km or 180,000 miles is just getting going. If it has been meticulously maintained, a diesel can go for a million kilometers.

Determine whether your potential future companion has a standard or automatic transmission? Which would you like better? Generally, a standard 5 speed transmission is the best choice, as it is less complex and more fuel efficient. C’mon! Stick is more fun anyway!

Find out it they have service records. If they have no service records, it is a strong indication that the car has not been well maintained. By looking at the service records, you can see the maintenance history, and any repairs. For example, a receipt for a new engine adds value to any car. When the time comes to sell your car, this can be handy evidence to present someone to backup your request for top dollar.

No list of tips on buying a second hand car can be complete if it doesn’t include being sure that you ask the seller if it has ever been in an accident. If their answer is yes, ask them if it was a write off. If yes, move on. There are lots of other cars to choose from. If their answer is no, find out how long ago the accident was, and what area of the car sustained damage? You will want to look carefully at these areas when you go to see the car.

If the damage is recent, it may be difficult to tell how well the repairs will hold up. If it was a long time ago and it still looks okay, that can be a good sign. If the doors were affected, there is a good chance that they don’t close perfectly anymore, and may make whistling sounds at highway speed. Very annoying on long journeys!

Okay, we are getting some good information from our seller! That’s it for part 2. Stay tuned for part 3 where I will dive into the nitty-gritty of how to narrow down your search for the perfect used car.

Most of us realize that used cars are usually less expensive than new cars. But we often still shy away from that kind of bargain because we may be intimidated by just what we may be buying. Could it be a great deal, or a lemon? And how do you know? Well, there actually is a way to work through the process of buying a great used car if you follow a few simple steps and stick to your guns. Would it surprise you that your first stop should be your credit union? Well, it should be.

You need to know how much car you can afford, and what the terms will be before you go car shopping. When you talk to your credit union, make sure you understand the difference in rates, if any, between various car model years. Newer car loans are generally lower than the interest rates charged for older models. Why? The lender assumes more risk with an older vehicle, and they pass some of that risk on to you in the form of a slightly higher rate. Does that mean you should only buy newer models? Not necessarily. That newer car will probably cost more, so even at a lower interest rate your payments could be higher than the payments on a less expensive older model at a slightly higher interest rate. Of course, your individual credit-worthiness will impact the loan rate you are quoted, as with any other financial product. Be sure you ask, too, if the credit union is sponsoring a used car sale any time soon. These events can give you a great place to comparison shop for dozens and dozens of vehicles. The prices are usually marked on (or in) the cars, and may be purported to be “non-negotiable.” But ask anyway. You may be able to negotiate a lower price, so why not check it out?

One more thing to check about car models you may be interested in is car insurance. It may be worth a call to your insurance agent to get a sense of what differences you might see in car insurance rates for different types of vehicles and models. Should you buy that Mustang or Taurus? It’s not really a surprise that a very powerful engine might be more expensive to insure, is it? So check that out before you buy. You may also want to ask your agent what differences in rates you might see depending on who is driving the car. If your 17 year old son will be one of the drivers, find out what that means to your insurance costs on the vehicle models you are considering.

What’s next? You are ready to start your additional homework. Sounds a little boring? Think about this. The salesman you are buying a car from has sold hundreds of them—or even thousands. How many have you bought? It makes some sense for you to spend a little time in research to even the playing field a little. And if you buy from a private owner, you still need to do your homework to know what little problems to look for that the owner himself may not even be aware of.

Fortunately, there are some disclosure regulations on your side. Some states require safety inspections and require that the results of those inspections be made available to prospective purchasers. Check with your state’s transportation department web site or your state secretary of state’s office or justice department as places to start looking for what help your state’s regulations may provide you. The Federal Trade Commission also has a Used-Car regulation which says that dealers must disclose whether or not used cars have any unexpired warranty protection. These same agencies can provide you information about any lemon laws which may exist in your state.

When you are looking for your car, you will generally find that similar vehicles are more expensive from dealers than from private parties. There are several reasons for this. Dealers often recondition cars. Some offer warranties. And consumers may actually have more recourse if something does go wrong with a purchase from a dealer than from a private party. Consider, also, your own knowledge about cars. If you are a shade-tree mechanic in your own right, you may be able to evaluate a car with more confidence than someone without that knowledge. If that’s your situation, it may be quite logical for you to gravitate toward purchase from a private party.

Most of us have some idea of what kinds of vehicles appeal to us. Make your short list, and hit the computer. You have a better resource than ever before to do some basic research about the models you are considering. One of the most popular such sites is http://www.edmunds.com/, but there are many others including Consumer Reports.

Let’s assume you have identified the vehicle of your dreams, you know what it will cost to insure, and you have a good idea of how to check it out. These sites can also give you vehicle reports on specific individual vehicles when you input the vehicle’s VIN number. The VIN number (Vehicle Identification Number) is usually visible just at the base of the windshield on the driver’s side. A vehicle history report on each candidate is absolutely critical when you have narrowed your choice to 3 or 4 cars. You may also want to circle back to your credit union again to find the ideal vehicle. Many large credit unions have buying services where they will take the information you provide about what vehicle you want and they will search for it for you. Then you can input the VIN and make sure the car is worth pursuing before you even go look at it. Make sure you know what, if any, fees such buying services will cost you.

Another source for your vehicle could be from companies such as Hertz and Avis which sell “program cars,” or cars which have come out of their rental fleets. They often have low mileage and are far less expensive than new cars, but even these vehicles should be thoroughly researched if you are considering purchasing one.

Would you believe that you may want to make one more pass at your credit union once you’ve found the perfect car? Suppose you’ve identified one at a local dealer, you are convinced you have their best price, and you’ve checked out the VIN number and talked to your insurance agent. And you know how much your credit union will lend you at what terms. But you don’t know what they will lend you on THIS car. A great way to confirm that “the price is right” is to ask your credit union exactly what they will lend on the car you want to buy. If it’s considerably less than what the asking price is, you may not have such a good deal after all.

Sound like a lot of work? It’s really not when you consider that our vehicles are going to transport us and our loved ones at 65 miles per hour (or more!) for what we hope is a good long time. Do the work up front to find a safe, reliable, affordable vehicle for your family. It’s a great use of your time!

If you have already planned that summer trip and are driving to your destination, take the time to make sure your vehicle is in top condition.

Giving your car a tune up and a thorough check up before you leave will ensure you get the best possible gas mileage and avoid a vacation ruined by a car breakdown.

“Regularly scheduled maintenance is the least expensive and easiest way to protect your safety and your investment,” according to the mechanics at Bedford Greenwich Automotive. “We specialize in high-end vehicles. We know that the longer you wait to make a repair, the more damage can be caused and the more costly the repairs. Taking the time to keep your vehicle in top condition will save you money in the long run.”

They seem like small things, according to Greenwich Bedford Automotive, but they are the standard items we all know about: changing oil and filters, rotating tires, checking brakes, and simply following the manufacturers recommended service intervals. “Very few people take care of their vehicles the way they should for optimum performance, which affects gas mileage and wear and tear on the vehicle.”

Check the oil every month; keep an eye out for any oil or other fluid leaks; pay attention to engine lights; replace worn tires now; listen for changes in the way your car sounds and feels like different noises, rattles, vibrations or burning smells in the vehicle and have them looked at right away; have spark plugs, air filters, fuel filters, belts, hoses, anti-freeze, brakes and all safety items thoroughly checked.

“Pre-maintenance inspections and repairs are very important with all high-end vehicles because breakdowns really can be prevented.” [PRWEB]