Weight is one of the most important issues to consider when building a fast car for road or track. Putting a car on a serious diet is pretty much free horsepower, as any attempt to lighten a car improves the power to weight ratio, this seriously improves acceleration.

The gains on a lightening a car are huge and not just limited to gains in acceleration either. Once you have lightened a fast car you will find the car performs better in the corners and under braking, parts such as brakes and tires will last longer on the car also.

The potential gains are huge but it must be done correctly, you would not want to lighten a rear wheel drive car too much on the rear or you may find traction a problem particularly with a high power output.

The truth is your fast car could be made a great deal faster cheaply and easily just by shaving a few pounds off the body.

How do we remove weight from the fast car?

This bit is as easy as you want it to be, but as with most forms of car modification it depends on how far you want to go. I know a guy who races a BMW and he decided to go all out on weight saving, he even scraped every bit of under-seal from the floors of the car, extreme perhaps but he managed to remove nearly 2 stone of under-seal, not a bad effort.

The obvious place to start saving weight on your fast car is by removing the interior, and anything else that you do not need, the front seats can be replaced with light weight racing items, the unused wiring removed, carpets and sound deadening, pretty much all of the unnecessary parts, my car has just a driver seat and a cage with much of the unnecessary wiring removed. This makes for a car with very impressive performance.

Many other components can be replaced with lighter parts, gear box casings, axle covers etc. It is worth noting that a stainless steel exhaust is lighter than the same in mild steel, so this constitutes a worthwhile investment.

It is also important to reduce the unsprung weight on the car also, by this I mean wheels, brakes and anything else before the suspension mounts, this provides a very good increase in the handling of the car.

OK - You’ve been putting off replacing those tread thin tires. Face it, replacing tires is a downright aggravating experience. Shopping for tires rests somewhere between doing your taxes or doing house cleaning. A dentist’s waiting room, while you’re hanging on anticipating that root canal, is unlikely to increase your anxiety. But, the bleak condition of most waiting rooms at tire dealers all too often propels us into an ambiance bordering on the repulsive.

Throughout our lives, the majority of us who drive will no doubt spend more than at least a day out of our lives marking time in a succession of these dismal dens. And then, we’re left to pore over long outdated, pawed over magazines offering little worthy of our attention.

We tend to think of tires like we think of electricity. Electric power is taken as a given. Only if it shuts off, are we really forced to think about it. We’re rudely reminded of our dependence on it when we lose it.

Our lack of consciousness about our tires is identical. Ignoring them seems to be the norm. All is well until we get a flat or blowout. All of a sudden we have to interrupt whatever we’re doing. We can’t get to a movie, miss picking up the kids or won’t make yoga class. Or much more seriously, one of our tires gives out and causes an accident. It’s not difficult to imagine any number of similar disruptions.

Fortunately, tire makers today are consistently improving tire performance and safety. Nevertheless, we, as car owners, have to cooperate. All things mechanical can only take so much wear and tear. Although excellent quality standards are built into tires today, they do have their useful life. It’s up to us to provide ongoing maintenance in the form of correct tire pressure, regular rotation, proper alignment and balancing. Even though we may be scrupulous about tire maintenance, there will come a time when we simply have to replace them. We dread the root canal and we dread the tire dealer.

How about a little surprise? A lot of the aggravation in replacing tires can be bypassed.

To the rescue come the good people at websites such as The Tire Rack. Your computer becomes your tire store while you sip a cool beverage in the comfort of your home or office. That’s right. All you need to do is log on. Now that’s convenience you might not otherwise expect when buying tires.

Here’s the rub. If you’re shopping for Bridgestone, Michelin, Dunlop, Goodyear, Pirelli or any other major tire make, The Tire Rack maintains and ships a full inventory of tire sizes and models. An easy to use “search widget” will permit you to locate readily the right size and tire model for your make and year of car, truck or SUV. ATV tires are available, as well. You can peruse tire reviews.

There’s more. The Tire Rack has made arrangements with tire dealers in your neighborhood to receive shipment and install them. If it’s more convenient for you, The Tire Rack will ship to your office or home.

You’ll want to consider these efficiencies when you buy tires online.

1. Save time shopping online.

2. You’ve selected the right tires.

3. No waiting at the dealer to complete the purchase.

4. Receive the tire maker’s full warranty.

5. Less interruption to your busy schedule.

6. You’re more likely to do it right now while you’re thinking of it.

Wait! There’s an even better idea. Have The Tire Rack mount your tires on a new set of wheels ready to stick on your vehicle. Very few things can rehab a worn looking jalopy better than a brand new set of tires and wheels.

If you are someone that takes pride in your car or cars, and you install performance car parts, then you already know that you have to be able to take care of these parts. The most popular form of performance car parts is the tires and rims, which can be located and put on to any car ever made. If you go even a little bit of time such as a few weeks without cleaning these parts, it can make the look of your car go from hip to poor right away. Those wheels that have somewhat of a bright finish will look bad if there is an over abundance of brake dust that has accumulated itself on the rim.

If you are using a bleaching agent to clean these areas, you are actually doing more harm than you are good. When cleaning these areas you want to use a top quality washing soap, a wheel cleaner, a tire brush, and smaller brush, maybe even a toothbrush, to fully clean the smaller parts of your rims. When you are washing your car, you should always begin by cleaning your wheels and only do that once they have cooled off from your driving. You run the risk of staining your tires if you wash them when they are warm. You have bought these performance car parts, so you should also take care of them.

The type of cleaner that is recommended for cleaning the wheels are the types that you can spray on, leave a few seconds, and then simply rinse off. These types of cleaners are free of acids and will not damage your tires like some others on the market today.

Once you have completed this, it is on to the next performance car part; the rims. The first thing to do with the rims is to give them a good scrubbing to remove the dirt that has heavily set in to them. Then you should put some more cleaner onto the rims, and begin using the tire brush, and the toothbrush, to intricately scrub the area. You may have to repeat this a few times to make sure there are no spots that you missed.

You should always remember to thoroughly dry off your rims and tires before putting any kind of preservative on the tires. This way there is not left over residue such as cleaner that will get locked into the tire through the preservative.

The improvement of Renault, the inventor of the “Wind” roadster this year, is considered an interesting step because it reflexes the tendency into the roadster market in the future. There are many fascinating features of Wind developed under the “Touch Design” concept, such as the elegantly designed appearance that reflexes lively and the inner decorated with fine quality materials which reflexes class.

Neat, clean appearance consists of 2 main lines which are the bottom and top lines. Although the headlights’ shapes are plain, they are a significant part that helps empower the overall. Transparent windshield stuffed with blue and green lights similar to plane’s light, which are such brilliant. The green smoothly blended with the light blue or aquamarine of the body part is the individual characteristic of Wind. Fabulous 19-inch wheels and “245-35/ZR19” Michelin Pilot Sport 2 tires are another remarkable complement.

The most outstanding of it is the 3-seat capacity which is cocoon-curve shaped, light brown leather seat embraces the passengers and the driver.

Frill-designed seats are permanently installed, as well as the steering wheel and console that are adjustable and automatically roll out when the doors are opened, and that helps the passenger enter the car more easily. The center section linked with the back seat which is made of carbon fiber. It is layered with foam and leather, which can flip inside out in order to make the third seat.

Although it is a compact roadster, Wind contains wide and useful space. The rear space has 232 liters in capacity. Wind’s dimension consists of 3870 millimeters in length, 1750 millimeters in width, excluding the side windows, 1260 millimeters in height, and 2395 millimeters in wheel’s base’s length, as well as the 850 kilograms in weight.. The back seat has extra thick car soft-top attached with the rear curve-shaped window for protecting the passengers from rain and sunlight.

All Wind’s controlling devices are made of aluminum, which reflexes the sport characteristic. They are designed to be in round shape installed in the center of console. They contain control button, communicative device, stereo, and navigation system.

6-speed robotized gearbox is designed to be with the dashboard, while the shift gear is put on the steering wheel like the Formular-1’s. There is one gauge-meter made of cylinder-shaped glass. It is used for indicating the round-per-minute speed which is displaying the numbers in both analog and digital.

Air conditioner’s controller is designed to put on the inner driver’s door. Its engine is a 16-valve 2.0liters, 136 horsepower maximum, and 191 N/m torque. It is considered a low-pollution engine which qualifies the Euro-4 polluting gas production regulation. From the Wind’s information, it implies the effort to market the small roadster which has the outstanding in designs in color, capacity, and clean burning energy that is quite energetic. Most of its designs are in the draft stage, so if Renault has a plan to import this production, they need at least 2 years in development.

If you would like a car that looks almost ordinary, but that is as fast as many supercars, buy the BMW M5. Yes, on the outside, this is an ordinary European sedan – but under the hood is a 500 bhp V-10 engine that you might imagine came from a sports-racing car! Will it do 180 mph? No, it could, but it won’t because BMW uses a limiter to prevent you going faster than 155 mph on all its hot cars. Actually, BMW says it will do over 190 mph without the limiter in operation.

The BMW M5 is powered by a very advanced 5.0 liter V-10 engine, ad fits neatly into the standard engine compartment. This is a very special engine, being built in small numbers and at high cost by BMW’s M Center. It’s a 90-degree V-10, which means that it won’t be quite as smooth as some – in theory, at any rate.

ADVANCED 500 BHP V10 ENGINE

Maximum power is 500 bhp at 7,700 rpm – a real screamer this – while the maximum torque of 380 lb ft is produced at 6,100 rpm. Boy, you’re really going to keep this revving if you want to use all that power. Still, when it’s just mooching along at 4,000 rpm, this amazing unit produces quite a chunk of power.

Needless to say, it has all the features you’d expect in a supercar engine, such as a stiff aluminum block, twin overhead camshafts per bank of cylinders and and narrow 4-valve heads. BMW uses its variable valve timing system, and drives the inlet camshafts on each bank by chain, with a gear drive to the exhaust camshaft, a system pioneered by Toyota to save space.

SEVEN-SPEED SEQUENTIAL GEARBOX

Coupled to this marvel of a power plant, which would seem more at home in a slinky coupe, is a seven-speed sequential gearbox. This is the latest development of the BMW sporty semi-automatic. BMW claims it’s the first seven-speed box of its type. Mercedes-Benz has a seven-speed automatic, and Audi has a CVT with seven stages, but these are not quite the same.

Why all these seven-speed boxes? Well, for maximum acceleration, and so that you have the right gear coming out of any corner, the more gears the better. When you’ve got that many gears, the shift pattern gets pretty complicated with a manual box, so they’re going for either automatics or semi-automatics.

To go with the powerful power train are bigger brakes than standard, wider wheels and tires, and stiffer suspension. The handling is surprisingly good for such an ordinary-looking car.

HOT PERFORMER, QUIET LOOKS

The result of putting this engine in the BMW 5 Series is very hot acceleration for such a big car: 0-60 in 4.7 seconds, and 0-125 mph in 15.6 seconds.

Will people pay over $100,000 or so for a 500 bhp sedan? You bet they will. There are a lot of people out there that want supercar performance, but don’t’ want to have to struggle to get in and out of the car. They also want to travel with plenty of luggage, and have room in the trunk for two sets of golf clubs – and more.

And they’ll get a real kick from burning off cheeky guys in sports cars who get in the way. Cars that are much faster than they look, which we used to call Q cars, have quite a market. What’s it like to drive? Well, at normal speeds, the car is very quiet, and you would not know how power you had. In fact, there is a switch on the steering wheel which limits power to 400 bhp. To get the full 500 bhp, you need to press that.

So, most of the time you’ll drive with 400 bhp, and the problem is that the engine does not have a lot of power until you get to 5,000 rpm, an the power keeps coming in until you get to 8,000 rpm. You need deserted roads to use that power, but the car works pretty well in traffic and normal commuting. Not quite so good in everyday use is the gearbox. It does not have a torque converter, so it can be quite jerky when you shift up.

Insurance—it’s everywhere. One can insure just about anything. Are tires an investment one needs to insure? Tire insurance, also called a road hazard policy, road hazard warranty, or tire reimbursement plan, is a rapidly growing industry in the automotive world.

Tire warranty plans pay in full or in part for the replacement or repair of damaged tires and/or rims from “road hazards.” Road hazards are defined as pot holes, debris, nails, wood, and other hazards found in the road. Curbs, sidewalks, and stone walls are not road hazards. This is an important distinction to consider when deciding if tire insurance is right for you (discussed further ahead).

Tire plans last for a specific period of time and tire wear tread-depth. Some plans last 2-3 years. Others can last 5 years or 60,000 miles. Several plans come with fixed amounts of coverage: $500 per year up to 4 years. Many contracts require three years of law school to comprehend. In terms of tread depth, a tire is usually considered worn out (and thus the plan null and void) at 2/32 to 3/32 of an inch.

Another important distinction is in the type of plan.

Tire reimbursement plans are just what they say. You, the plan holder, will be reimbursed after the claims process is finalized—usually 2-8 weeks. There is an out-of-pocket expense. These plans are often sold by new car dealerships. The prices can range from $300 to $600 dollars.

Road hazard policies operate similarly to reimbursement plans. However, some tire insurance providers, in partnership with the repair facility, may have a direct-pay relationship. Thus, there would be no out-of-pocket expense, except for applicable deductibles, and items not covered in part or in full. These plans are primarily sold by tire dealers and repairshops. The prices range from $10 to $30 per tire. They also can be based on a percentage of the cost of the tire: usually 12% to 15%.

Both types of plans have a number of variables, requiring a magnifying glass to read the fine print. Also, many are pro-rated warranties, covering only a percentage of the cost of the tire based on its wear.

Claims and Coverage: Depending on the plan, claims are initiated by the repair shop. The process is fairly smooth, although there can be a significant delay from the provider for authorization. This delay may be an hour or an entire weekend. This means that you’ll have to “ok” the tire replacement, and then hope it’s authorized for the full amount, or drive on your spare.

Some plans offer national coverage either among their service facilities or from other repair centers. Claims procedures will vary. Others only provide local coverage, or coverage at the selling facility.

Limitations: Tire insurance does not mean that everything is covered. Pro-rated warranties are based on the wear and tear of the tire. You may get 75%, 50%, or only 10% coverage depending on the tread-depth. You’ll pay the remainder. While there are plans that offer full coverage, even these have limitations, or they may conflict with a repair shop’s policies.

For example, many plans allow for a maximum of $30 to mount and balance one tire, and a maximum of $15 to repair a tire. However, sport tires often have significantly higher mounting and balancing fees—upwards of $50 per tire—and tire repair prices can exceed $90. There are also discrepancies on the tire and rim prices themselves, which in the end, may have to be supplemented by the service customer.

Although there usually is not an issue with the latter given the competitive market, the service center’s price mark up may be unacceptable to the plan provider. In this case, the service center needs to lower the price or you, the service customer, need to pay the difference—or go somewhere else. This does happen!

Rim Prices and Repairs: Rim replacement is becoming less frequent. With the high cost of aluminum wheels and sport wheel packages, tire insurers have opted to have them repaired. Repair will only be done if the rim does not hold air. What this means is that even if the rim is warped—enough to cause a vibration and even premature tire wear—they won’t replace it. Rather, they will send it out to be straightened and repaired.

Rims are replaced only if the damage is so extensive that the new tire, when mounted on the rim, won’t hold air. However, even in this case, especially if it’s an expensive sport wheel, they may still attempt to repair it.

Repairing rims is a bad option. While some rim repair is acceptable, badly warped or damaged rims will in no way ever be the same.

Alignments: If a car hits a road hazard hard enough, such as a pot hole, it’s wise to have the alignment checked. Road hazard policies and tire reimbursement plans do not cover alignments. The service customer will have to pay for this procedure.

Road Hazard Protection Positives: Some plans include tire rotations, wheel balancing, and nationwide coverage.

Myths:

1) “Can I pop all 4 tires and get a new set of tires?”

You can try. But this type of claim will trigger a number of red flags with the insurer. The policy holder will likely send out adjusters and/or require photographs. You will also have a difficult time explaining how a “road hazard” caused all 4 tire pop.

2) “New tires come with a road hazard warranty.”

New tires do come with a warranty by the tire manufacturer. However, it only covers defects in workmanship. New tire warranties do not cover punctures or damages from external sources. This is why “road hazard” protection is being pushed.

New tires are rarely defective. If there is a problem, it’s usually noticed when balancing the tire. Or, there is a drivability concern such as vibration or noise. If there’s a defect it’s generally caught right away, and the tire swapped out.

3) “It’s so cheap; it’s a no-brainer, right?”

Actually, the experts don’t agree with this statement.

The Economics of Tire Warranties: An article from the Washington Post by Terence O’Hara explains the economics of extended warranties and purchase protection plans in general. It is quite fitting for road hazard warranties. He writes:

“The decision to buy an extended warranty…defies the recommendations of economists, consumer advocates and product quality experts, who all warn that the plans rarely benefit consumers and are nearly always a waste of money.

‘[Extended warranties or purchase protection plans] make no rational sense,’ Harvard economist David Cutler said. ‘The implied probability [of having an issue with the product] has to be substantially greater than the risk that you can’t afford to fix it or replace it. If you’re buying a $400 item, for the overwhelming number of consumers that level of spending is not a risk you need to insure under any circumstances.’”

In short, road hazard warranties are a waste of money. Don’t insure that which you can afford to replace.

Numbers Game and Slim Chances: Like all insurance, tire insurance plans are a numbers game. However, this is a game you have a 98% chance of losing. Insider statistics show that the percentage of claims paid out by providers is as low a 2%.

Curbs: Another interesting note is that a lot of tire damage is caused by curbs. Curb damage is not covered under most road hazard policies. High granite curbs with sharp edges slice through tens of thousands of tires per year.

You Won’t Notice: Many people don’t even notice tire damage. Other than to see if the tires are holding air, who “really” looks at tires? Tires are subject to a whole host of external influences which cause bubbles, slices and gouges.

Despite the potential dangers of damaged tires, the damage very often does not translate into any noticeable drivability issue. The point is that if you don’t notice any tire damage you can’t benefit from the coverage.

Research Shows: Those raving about the benefits of a road hazard policy are the actual folks in the industry who stand to benefit from the sale. They’ll argue that it’s so cheap—only $10 to $20 per tire. Even so, for four tires, that’s $80 based on the “possibility,” the “chance,” of damaging a tire that meets the repair/replacement requirement protocols.

Auto Insurance: If a rim and tire has incurred significant damage, it’s quite likely that other problems have resulted as well. The first is that the vehicle may have been jarred out of alignment. Secondly, hub bearings, front end components: tie rods, spindles, ball joints, and a variety of other components may have sustained damage. In this case, auto insurance, which you are already paying for, will pay for everything—brand new.

Free Road Hazard Warranties: Many tires come with road hazard warranties FREE. In other words, in an effort to secure retailers, many tire distributors provide service centers FREE road hazard insurance. Some shops pass this on to their tire customers, others sell them. Ask if the tire “comes” with a road hazard protection policy. If not, request that one be provided at no additional charge. It’s worth a shot.

Also, some car manufacturers provide road hazard warranties FREE of charge for 12 months or 12,000 miles. If you’re buying a new car or even used, ask that the dealer provide a complimentary road hazard policy (after all the wheeling and dealing is done, of course), and just before you commit.

“What’s the best road hazard policy?” Money in “your” bank account.

You might think that 6 liters was enough to make the Corvette two-seater fast enough, but not for the competition department lurking inside GM. They wanted to be able to compete head-to-head with the European supercars in the international endurance races for sports cars.

To do so, they took a leaf out of Ford’s book. In the 1960s, when Ford found it could not compete with the smaller Ferraris at Le Mans with the 4.2 (ex-Indy) or 4.7 liter engines, they brought out their 7-liter mill. And it was so much bigger than the competition that they won. So the guys behind the Corvette decided to produce a 7-liter version of America’s favorite and most famous sports car.

By the way, the 7 liter Corvette more than competes with the Dodge Viper SRT-10, which could give the standard Corvette a bit of a run for its money. Of course, this is not just any old engine. This is a very special version of its GEN IV 7.0 liter V-8.

This 2006 Corvette is challenging for muscle car of the year with no less than 500 bhp on tap at 6,200 rpm. Maximum torque from this mammoth engine is 475 lb ft at 4,800 rpm. This is bound to be a stunner with a top speed of about 185 mph and 0-60 in under 4.0 seconds. GM expects the quarter-mile be under 12 seconds.

To give durability, the engine has been beefed up in a number of ways. First, the connecting rods and inlet valves are now made of titanium – these weigh about half as much as steel ones and are used in quite a number of high-performance engines. Because of the low weight, the titanium parts put less load on other critical parts of the engine - the crankshaft, bearings and in this case the valve gear as well. The titanium valves also allow the engine to rev faster safely.

In fact, titanium used to be an aerospace-only material because it was so expensive, but it is now bein gused more in exotic cars and the heads of golf clubs, helping the lesser pros feel not so outclassed by Tiger Woods as they might with ordinary drivers.

You will see that the Corvette 7 liter is intended for the race track by the fact that the engine has a dry sump lube system. A dry sump system prevents the oil in the oil pan from slopping away from the pick-up on fast cornering – the sort you can do only on a track – and thus damaging the main bearings.

Instead of staying in the oil pan, the oil is pumped out to a tank, and then pressure fed from there directly to the engine bearings and other critical areas. Definitely a system for top supercars.

The underpinnings of the car have also been beefed up with a new aluminum perimeter frame which reduces weight. Further weight reduction comes with a new magnesium engine sub-frame. To ensure the car is stiff enough, it will be available only as a hardtop. The front fenders and wheelarches are now carbon fiber composite panels, which also reduce weight.

But there’s more…

To get all that power onto the road, and to get it to stop, bigger wheels, tires and brakes have been fitted. The front brake discs are now 13.9 inch diameter, and 19 x 12 inch wide rims are used at the back; front wheels are 18 x 9.5 inches. Such massive rear tires for a car with 50:50 weight distribution suggest that the car will have a tendency to oversteer – smoky drifts could be the order of the day!

All-in-all, this is a really special car, developed to compete with the best.

A car with an excellent paint job is one of life’s true joys. It’s like being the kid with the best bike in the neighbourhood or the biggest piece of birthday cake. Whether you drive a ‘47 Eldorado, a ‘66 Beetle or an ‘07 fortwo, a great paint job will take your vehicle from ho-hum to headturner.

Actually creating a great automotive paint job takes skill and finesse. Automotive painting is one of the most arduous and painstaking tasks in crafting an automobile. It can also be one of the most costly. If you are on a budget, there are options for you. Some paint shops can deliver a good paint job for a fair price. Your other option is to take on the task yourself. If the paint job is a success, you’ll have even more to brag about: a hot set of wheels AND a "do it yourself" tale to tell. Achieving a great paint job is a step-by-step process. You simply can’t rush automotive painting. Follow the basic steps of preparation, primer application, blocking, final paint coat and detail application. This can seem like a daunting task for any beginner, but the entire job can be completed in just a few days.

Prepare Before you begin, check with local bylaws and regulations regarding the use of spray paint in homes and enclosed areas. The last thing you need is a legal holdup delaying your painting job.

Cleaning the car is your next crucial step. The car must be spotlessly clean and free of dirt. Use detergents to clean the car top to bottom, and then follow up with grease removers. After the car has been cleaned, it’s time to begin sanding. An air sander (preferably a dual-action sander) should be used to remove the old paint from the car. This kind of sander will not cause body damage because it removes paint without digging like other sanders and grinders. Every trace of paint must be removed to create a perfect palette for your new paint job. Automotive detailing tape or even duct tape can be used to cover and protect other parts of the car, including plastic moldings and windows. In addition to removing the old paint, all traces of rust have to be sanded off. Rust will spread if ignored or untreated, and the last thing you want is body rot happening beneath your spiffy new paint. You can repair minor body flaws on the car’s surface using fillers. Shape the compound with care using a sanding board, then follow up with a glazing compound. This step will help to ensure a smooth-as-glass finish on your ride.

Mask After the whole car has been initially cleaned, then sanded, a final cleaning takes place and the vehicle is ready to be masked. In this step, every part of the car that shouldn’t be touched by paint is covered and protected. Remember, you will be using high-grade automotive paint that doesn’t wash off with water. Cover your windows, every light and reflector, all window rubbers, all chrome, tires, wheels, door handles, wipers.. take a good look and what needs to be masked. If you don’t want even the tiniest bit of over spray on it, cover it up! The tools and materials needed for masking are available at automotive supply warehouses and hardware stores.

Prime Priming is an essential step to providing a good foundation for your new paint. A flawless prime coat will help you to achieve a perfect paint job. Valspar epoxy is a good primer choice, combining dependable filling capabilities with minimal shrinking. After the primer has been applied, a second coat in a contrasting colour should be applied on top of the first layer. This will serve as a sanding guide. The primer should be sanded to a smooth finish, but don’t sand too vigorously or you could actually damage the body of the car. When the priming is complete, a sealer is applied and a final sanding takes place.

Finishing off In finishing off the automotive painting, it is essential to achieve uniform colour. The spray gun should be held ten to twelve inches away from the body to avoid streaks and runs. This is necessary when applying the basecoat, final coat and clear coat.

Regardless of the type of car you drive, a new paint job can turn it into a real showstopper. Automotive painting can be a time consuming task, but you can do it if you take it step by step. The creative energy will be good for your soul, and the compliments you receive will be great for your confidence.

The tires and the spokes of the scooter will require daily inspection to ensure you have no problems, and that your ride will be a safe one. If you are faced with broken spokes, you should repair them right away to prevent additional breakage. If you have a flat tire, you will also need to have someone change it, plug it or repair it so you can continue riding the scooter. Riding the scooter with a flat tire is going to bend and chip the rims, the wheels, and will not provide you with the smooth ride you are accustomed.

For flat tires, there is a canister type of solution you can purchase which is known as fix a flat, which will fix flat tires, plugging holes in the rubber tire. The Fix a flat is a canister that will plug right into the tire, inflating the tire as it plugs the hole at the same time. The Fix a flat is going to work on the tires that are rubber, the same as your car. This type of repair is not going to work on the tire with a tube or the tire that has a major cut in it. Repairs to the tire that has a large gash will require replacement of the tire. Most all medical supply houses, and scooter retail outlets do make replacement tires easy to purchase.

Regular reviewing and maintenance of your tires will be required. If you are not using your scooter for long periods, you should at least have someone move the tires around, so they are not sitting on one portion of the tire for weeks on end. Dry rot is a problem for tires not used often. A scooter not used for three months at a time can easily have dry rot on the tire. Dry rot can be spotted by the cracks in the tires, which can easily then lead to air leaks.

To prevent the need to fix flat tires, to fix broken spokes, and to prevent dry rot on any scooter tire, you should consider the purchase of tires, which are solid. Solid tires are available with or without tread. Solid tires never require air. If you have tires that do require air, you can pump up the tires with a bike pump or with an air compressor.

The Jeep Hurricane is a concept vehicle unveiled by Daimler-Chrysler at the 2005 North American International Auto Show. It opened with and continues to receive rave reviews! So many in fact that it was rumored that Daimler-Chrysler was considering a limited production run of the vehicle. Those rumors have died down, but the Hurricane continues to draw the interest and attention of 4×4 afficianados, and hey, why not?

As Daimler-Chrysler has said: “Jeep Hurricane is simply the most maneuverable, most capable and most powerful 4×4 ever built,” said Trevor Creed, Senior Vice President - Chrysler Group Design. “It pays homage to the extreme enthusiasts’ Jeep vehicles in form and off-road capability, but is a unique interpretation of Jeep design. Simply stated, it is the extreme example for the Jeep brand.”

Why build such a vehicle? The Hurricane broadly successfully and dramatically illustrates Daimler-Chrysler’s ingenuity, technical ability and wherewithal. Still, the Hurricane does have practical applications out in the real world. As a Daimler-Chrysler spokesman put it, “Out in the wilderness, changing direction in minimal space can mean the difference between an afternoon of adventure and a distress call back to the trailhead…..The multi-mode four-wheel steering system on Jeep Hurricane is designed to offer enthusiasts the next level of performance and unexpected maneuverability.” It’s not hard to imagine that we’ll eventually see a military vehicle built off of this original design.

The Hurricane possesses an extremely powerful power system with not one but two 5.7-liter HEMI engines, one in the front and one in the back. Both engines deliver an impressive 335 horses for a total of 670 hp. The Hurricane set-up uses the Chrysler Group’s Multi-Displacement System which allows it to run on 4, 8, 12 or all 16 cylinders enabling it to adjust for speed, power and torque giving the driver ultimate power train control. The Hurricane is responsive and can go from 0 to 60 in less than five seconds!

The power is transferred through a central transfer case with split axles and has a mechanically controlled four-wheel torque distribution system. The suspensions, both front and rear, are short/long arm independent with 20 inches of travel, featuring coilover shocks with remote reservoirs.

One of the most impressive features of the Hurricane is its zero turning radius, which enables the vehicle to turn virtually in a circle in place! This is all thanks to a skid steer capability and toe steer, which is the ability to turn both front and rear tires inward. The Jeep concept vehicle has two types of 4-wheel steering: the traditional method with the rear tires turning opposite of the front wheels and an innovative one in which all four wheels turn in the same direction. This actually allows the Jeep Hurricane to move sideways without changing where it is pointing.

Topping off all of this is the Hurricane’s fantastic ground clearance of 14.3 inches and impressive approach-departure angles of 64.0 and 86.7 degrees. It really is a go anywhere do anything vehicle.

The Hurricane also features an innovative way to combine body, power-train and suspension. The suspension along with the power-train is mounted directly to the one-piece carbon fiber reinforced body, eliminating the weight and need for a frame. The vehicles belly is protected and connected by an aluminum spine, which acts as a huge skid plate mechanism. This is a lightweight and structurally strong set-up.

The general public wasn;t the only ones who loved what they saw. The Jeep Hurricane won Autoweek’s “Most Fun” Concept award at the 2005 North American International Auto Show. As we noted earlier there were rumors that Daimler-Chrysler was toying with the idea of a limited production, but those rumors have died down amid the company’s statement that this was indeed a concept vehicle and that’s all (at least for now). Kids, however, will be able to enjoy the Hurricane as Fisher-Price has introduced an all-new Jeep Hurricane toy. In addition, for learning about and ordering the latest innovation in Jeep aftermarket parts, great websites like http://www.xtremeterrain.com will illustrate what is new and offer a selection of affordable and high quality parts.