The use of car seat covers is one of the best ways to keep your vehicle’s interior in good condition. Car seat covers are an excellent investment if you want to retain the value of your vehicle and keep it looking clean and tidy.

Car seat covers have many benefits and are practical as well as nice to look at. No more sticking or burning on your hot vinyl seats, or the fear of unsightly stains appearing on your upholstery. Besides protecting your car’s seats from the sun and general wear and tear, you can wash them in the washing machine when they become dirty.

Car seat covers are available in a wide range of styles and fabrics, from warm and woolly to cool and comfy. Styles are available for bucket seats, as well as the back seat of your car or SUV. It is not difficult to find car seat covers which will suit all of your needs.

If you have kids who create a mess in your car, there are novelty car seat covers available in many colorful designs. For newborn babies, baby car seat covers are almost a necessity. Baby car seat covers are designed to fit over the original manufacturer’s cover, providing even more support for your baby.

If you take your pet with you in your car, there are dog car seat covers which protect your car seats from dog-related problems. A shedding pet will change the appearance of your car seats forever, so using seat covers in this situation would be a must.

Car seat covers come in two main types: Universal, and Custom.

Universal car seat covers: These come in one standard size to fit most vehicle makes and models. The disadvantage of these is that they do not always provide a perfect fit.

Custom car seat covers: The great thing about custom car seat covers is that they are designed to fit every popular model of car, van or truck. These provide a much better fit, as they are designed specifically for that particular vehicle.

There are several materials used for car seat covers. These are poly cotton, and sheepskin.

Poly cotton is the most common fabric used for car seat covers. It is soft to the touch, and is also very durable.

Sheepskin car seat covers are also very common next to poly cotton. Sheepskin car seat covers are known to reduce stress, as they provide warmth and massage your back while you drive. They are also cool during hot weather. Sheepskin car seat covers can also be machine washed.

Car seat covers are an excellent way to protect your expensive car seats, or make old seats look like new. Having a set of unique car seat covers is a great way to add some personal touch to the interior of your vehicle, as well as a cost effective method to extend the life of your car’s seats. Car seat covers are a great relief if you are worried about preserving the overall look of your vehicle.

OK - You’ve been putting off replacing those tread thin tires. Face it, replacing tires is a downright aggravating experience. Shopping for tires rests somewhere between doing your taxes or doing house cleaning. A dentist’s waiting room, while you’re hanging on anticipating that root canal, is unlikely to increase your anxiety. But, the bleak condition of most waiting rooms at tire dealers all too often propels us into an ambiance bordering on the repulsive.

Throughout our lives, the majority of us who drive will no doubt spend more than at least a day out of our lives marking time in a succession of these dismal dens. And then, we’re left to pore over long outdated, pawed over magazines offering little worthy of our attention.

We tend to think of tires like we think of electricity. Electric power is taken as a given. Only if it shuts off, are we really forced to think about it. We’re rudely reminded of our dependence on it when we lose it.

Our lack of consciousness about our tires is identical. Ignoring them seems to be the norm. All is well until we get a flat or blowout. All of a sudden we have to interrupt whatever we’re doing. We can’t get to a movie, miss picking up the kids or won’t make yoga class. Or much more seriously, one of our tires gives out and causes an accident. It’s not difficult to imagine any number of similar disruptions.

Fortunately, tire makers today are consistently improving tire performance and safety. Nevertheless, we, as car owners, have to cooperate. All things mechanical can only take so much wear and tear. Although excellent quality standards are built into tires today, they do have their useful life. It’s up to us to provide ongoing maintenance in the form of correct tire pressure, regular rotation, proper alignment and balancing. Even though we may be scrupulous about tire maintenance, there will come a time when we simply have to replace them. We dread the root canal and we dread the tire dealer.

How about a little surprise? A lot of the aggravation in replacing tires can be bypassed.

To the rescue come the good people at websites such as The Tire Rack. Your computer becomes your tire store while you sip a cool beverage in the comfort of your home or office. That’s right. All you need to do is log on. Now that’s convenience you might not otherwise expect when buying tires.

Here’s the rub. If you’re shopping for Bridgestone, Michelin, Dunlop, Goodyear, Pirelli or any other major tire make, The Tire Rack maintains and ships a full inventory of tire sizes and models. An easy to use “search widget” will permit you to locate readily the right size and tire model for your make and year of car, truck or SUV. ATV tires are available, as well. You can peruse tire reviews.

There’s more. The Tire Rack has made arrangements with tire dealers in your neighborhood to receive shipment and install them. If it’s more convenient for you, The Tire Rack will ship to your office or home.

You’ll want to consider these efficiencies when you buy tires online.

1. Save time shopping online.

2. You’ve selected the right tires.

3. No waiting at the dealer to complete the purchase.

4. Receive the tire maker’s full warranty.

5. Less interruption to your busy schedule.

6. You’re more likely to do it right now while you’re thinking of it.

Wait! There’s an even better idea. Have The Tire Rack mount your tires on a new set of wheels ready to stick on your vehicle. Very few things can rehab a worn looking jalopy better than a brand new set of tires and wheels.

They use less fuel. They are much more efficient. They are much less polluting. And what’s more, they require much less maintenance. Yes, hybrids really do score better on all counts when compared to conventional vehicles. In fact not only do they need much less service, they are also made to run better and last longer. So you should take all these factors into consideration when you are making a choice. Let’s take a look at why they don’t need as much maintenance.

Firstly, they have fewer parts than a conventional car and hence, fewer parts to wear out. It’s the way they are built. There’s no regular starter and this technology means that there is one part less that needs to be replaced. No starter also means there is no chance of accidentally grinding the flywheel. The battery and the motor too do not require too much maintenance. The engine lasts longer than a conventional engine and requires as much maintenance perhaps as a conventional one. A hybrid does not need any valve adjustments done and even if there are valves, they do not get worn out because the engine does not run constantly. And the injectors do not need regular cleaning, in fact maybe they never need to be cleaned because there is hardly any deposit on them.

The hybrid car uses electricity to run the air-conditioning system unlike the conventional ones that use a traditional pulley that is driven off a gas motor. So this means there is no air-conditioning belt to wear out. There is also no belt used for the steering because it is not hydraulic but electric. So it has very little kickback even when driving over rough, uneven roads.

The hybrid car’s generator can multi-task. The generator is an important part of the hybrid car and there is a separate gas engine that powers it. A hybrid engine is really very small, maybe 10 to 20 horsepower and it is so designed that it gets maximum efficiency if it runs at one speed. Because the generator does many tasks, there is less wear and tear of the other parts and when braking or coasting, the car can recapture the energy. So there is no wastage of the battery and the battery does not need to be replaced very often. With the generator handling a lot of the braking – in fact 80% - it means that extends the life of the brakes too. There is also less chance of the rotors getting warped. Thanks to less of a heat build up, the life of the brake fluid is extended too and the brake pads last longer.

Hybrid cars also have warranties that are much longer. Most of the Toyota and Honda cars have much longer warranties on their hybrids than on the conventional ones. There’s an 8 year or an 80,000 mile warranty on the Honda Insight while for the Toyota Prius, you’ll get a 100,000 mile warranty or 8 years on the hybrid system and the battery. These longer warranties make the hybrid an attractive buy.

If you are making up your mind between a conventional car and a hybrid one, look at all the long-term advantages. Hybrids are built so they last longer and they don’t need as much looking after as a conventional car. Add to that the fact that they don’t guzzle as much gas and have fewer parts, therefore less maintenance and you’ll see why it makes good sense to decide in favor of the hybrid.

Regardless of your car audio listening habits: broadcast radio, satellite radio, or CDs, finding the desirable speaker combination for your automobile will make your audio experience a positive one. Finding the right system may take some effort and research, but it will be worth it. Improved components which add greater functionality of car audio system means you should know about certain components. These components are speakers, sub woofers, tweeters, amplifiers, ipod adapters and more.

Speakers

Speaker approaches are very important because they are the units that actually reproduce the sound from electrical energy. The right speakers for your auto audio system are extremely critical, given that they are reproducing the actual sound from the stereo itself. When buying speakers, only consider the higher end. Here is what you need to know, and what to look for:

First, let’s start with the types of speakers that you’ll encounter in the car audio world.

A woofer is a large speaker which will reproduce the lower frequencies. The mid speaker is, as its name implies, a medium sized unit which reproduces the middle frequencies. And the tweeter is small and will reproduce the higher sounds.

A sub woofer will give you another dimension in bass: they reproduce the lowest spectrum of the sound. And there is a also a supertweeter which will give you the highest sound in the spectrum.

When you buy speakers, you may be actually buying a "package" of speakers, encompassing some or all of the above. Or, you could purchase them separately.

There are other variations of these speakers available as well. If the car sees a lot of use as well as wear and tear, then buying higher quality components is a great idea.

There are many factors that need to be considered in placing the speakers in the correct position. Basically, they split music signals into separate frequency ranges and sends them to speakers that are designed to best reproduce each frequency range, you can vary the crossover points and adjust the level of separate speakers to achieve the best overall sound in your vehicle.

Power

Amplifiers are devices that take a teeny tiny audio signal from a pre-amp, some power from your battery, and pass it on as a big audio signal to drive speakers. To get the cleanest sound, it is absolutely essential to have as much power as you can afford. It delivers power with clarity.

Factory fitted radios (standard fit radios) in the past had relatively low power outputs of about 3 to 5 watts. Compare this to after market radios where the basic models start at a power output of 45 Watts x 4.

By providing a maximum power of 45 watts, they belong to the class of highly efficient amplifiers that are up to 90% power efficient. It makes the most efficient use of power when compared to other amplifier classes.

Components

A car audio system is a combination of components such as head units, amplifiers, speakers, and auxiliary input devices. A word of advice: if you are supposed to be paying for new car audio approach from an after market dealer, make sure you see the box, the price and installation materials before the company installs the your car audio approach. This way you are assured of getting what you paid for.

If the quality of the audio in your car is important to you, be sure to consider these ideas. Many of us spend a great deal of time in our cars. It is worth the effort to make sure you get what you want.

[Introduction]

Nitrous Oxide injection is a popular performance modification that offers maximum returns on spending. The direct outcome of using Nitrous Oxide injection is additional power to your vehicle. This results into better garnering of energy from combustion of fuel, revved up engine and eventual boost in over all performance of the vehicle.

Nitrous oxide is more popular than other performance modifications as besides better performance per unit of money spent, Nitrous installations are easier to accomplish. These installations can be used as and when the need arises. The Nitrous oxide injections are available to meet any magnitude of power need from 25 HP to over 500 extra HP. This performance option caters to the computer controlled fuel injected engines. The Nitrous systems are portable enough to be easily removed or transferred to another vehicle. In comparison to other performance options, Nitrous Oxide systems are feasible, as they cost least and install without much difficulty. To install NOS, all you need are some common hand tools and barely three to four hours time. There is no other performance option that can buy you more performance for lesser money than Nitrous.

Nitrous oxide is colorless, non-flammable and a slightly sweet smelling gas. Also known as laughing gas because of its euphoric effects, Nitrous is also known as NOS after the famous trademark catering Nitrous Oxide injection systems.

[How Does It Work?]

Nitrous oxides functions along identical principle as followed by sodium chlorate upon heating. It constitutes of two parts of Nitrogen and one part of Oxygen (N2O). When Nitrous Oxide is heated to a temperature of about 570 degrees F (~300 degree C), it splits into oxygen and nitrogen. So, injection of Nitrous oxide into the engine results into more oxygen available during combustion. As there is more oxygen available during combustion, the engine can also intake more fuel, and consequently generate more power. Thus, Nitrous oxide is one of the simplest manners to give a substantial horsepower boost to any gasoline engine.

Secondly, when pressurized Nitrous oxide is injected into the intake manifold, it boils and vaporizes. As a result, Nitrous oxide provides significant cooling effect on the intake air. With the cooling effect, the temperature of the intake air reduces by 60-75 degrees F. This in turn, increases air density and subsequent higher concentration of oxygen inside the cylinder. Thus additional power is generated. As per standard rule, every 10 degrees F reduction in intake charge temperature causes 1% increase in power. For example, a 350 HP engine with an intake temperature drop of 70 degrees F shall gain around 25HP on the cooling affect alone.

Thirdly, the nitrogen released during the process of heating also supports the performance aspect. As Nitrogen dampens down the increased cylinder pressure, it controls the combustion process eventually.

Nitrous oxide is colossal just like any other gas. Even its liquid form does not excuse the bulky nature of the gas. The engine requires a huge quantity of Nitrous Oxide to keep the 5-liter engine running at 4,000 rotations per minute (RPM). The speed of 4,000-RPM rate is secured by combustion of 10,000 liters of air every minute. In sharp contrast, the engine consumes only 0.2 liters of gasoline. In nutshell, the engine shall require magnanimous quantity of Nitrous oxide to run your vehicle continuously. Therefore, a car normally carries limited amount of nitrous oxide, which is used very selectively by the driver, by pushing a button.

Nitrous system offers improvement of 1 to 3 full seconds and 10 to 15 MPH in the quarter mile. Other factors viz. engine size, tires, jetting, gearing etc. determine the final results. It is best used with a wide-open throttle, unless a progressive controller is used. It can be safely applied above 2,500 rotations per minute (RPM) under full throttle conditions.

Forged aluminum pistons are one of the best modifications to complement NOS. Other important modifications may be a forged crankshaft, a high quality race type connecting rod, a high output fuel pump dedicated to feeding the additional fuel demands of Nitrous system and a racing fuel with high specific gravity and an octane rating of 110 or more.

For effective performance through Nitrous Oxide, it is important to choose the correct Horse Power for a given application. To elaborate, as the energy will be released in the cylinder, the load on various components to perform will also increase proportionately. If the energy released is greater than the ability to handle the energy, it will amount to wear and tear of the machinery. While 4 cyl. engines allow an extra 40-60 HP, 6 cyl. engines allow 75-100 extra HP only. On identical lines, while small blocks V8’s (302/350/400cid) typically allow up to 140 extra HP, big blocks V8’s (427/454) accept from 125–200 extra HP.

As Nitrous looses the optimal flow rate at very cold temperatures, NOS kit has a nitrous pressure gauge that allows you to monitor the pressure to approximately 800-900 psi. In colder climates, it is always advisable to purchase a bottle heater kit, part # 14161 to keep the ambient temperature to 70-90 degrees F.

Further, the condition of the engine is important to keep in mind while choosing NOS kit for your vehicle. A worn out and poorly tuned up vehicle will not be able to sustain NOS pressure and will be instead harmed by abnormal wear.

Though the button triggering on Nitrous oxide may be held pressed until the bottle containing it is rendered empty, it is recommended that Nitrous Oxide may be used for 15 continuous seconds or lesser. The Nitrous bottle can be easily refilled from any NOS certified distributor. The NOS bottle must not be overfilled as overfilling and/ or too much heat can result into excessive bottle pressures, following a blown out safety seal and eventual release of all the contents out of the bottle.

[Summary]

To wrap up, Nitrous Oxide magnifies the output of any engine – be it stock engine or modified engine, to lend more power and better performance. However, it is important to keep the condition and horsepower of the engine in mind before introducing particular NOS to it to secure positive results only.

The helmet is probably the only thing that can save the person who is involved in an accident. This is because the outer shell is made of strong material that can probably withstand the impact of a collision.

When people buy a helmet, putting it on the head won’t keep it from coming off if the biker stops suddenly or goes too fast. The only way this can be prevented is having the right lock securing the straps from one end to the other.

The right helmet lock should be the kind that has two rings that fasten together. This is because snap fasteners have a tendency to come off during an accident.

If the dealer doesn’t have a helmet that can fit the size of the owner’s head, the one the person got should be brought to a decal dealer so the original locking mechanism can be replaced.

Once this has been changed, it will be a good idea to wear it on for the next 30 to 45 minutes. The individual should shake the head from one side to the next or look up then down to make sure it won’t come off and is securely fastened.

If everything is ok, the bike owner can already leave the store and enjoy driving down the open road.

The right lock for the motorcycle helmet may come in black, blue or any other color that the customer wants. This will usually sell for about four to six dollars a piece that can also be purchased online for almost the same price.

People who know how to put on the lock after purchasing the item online can do the changes at home. Those who don’t can ask a friend or family who are familiar with motorcycle helmet straps for help.

The person must remember to change the motorcycle lock after a few months or a year since this is prone to wear and tear. The same thing goes for the helmet that should be changed every 5 years.

The motorcycle helmet is the only thing that can protect a person who is involved in a motorcycle accident. This may not protect the other bones in the body but this can surely protect the owner’s head. It is essential then to get the right kind of lock for the helmet because this could mean save the individual from serious brain injury or death.

A lot of these tonneau covers have been sold. Probably because they are inexpensive and they give you great access to your truck bed just by folding up the three piece design. The trifecta is custom made to fit the make model and year of the vehicle it is intended for. This cover is made of heavy duty vinyl sewn to an aluminum frame. This particular cover uses spring clamps to latch closed at the tailgate. It is kept secured with straps whiled opened up to the cab. You can drive with it opened or closed. This tonneau cover is shipped fully assembled and installs quickly and easily with no drilling. You get a 10 year tarp warranty and lifetime on the frame. Of course as with other lids it improves fuel mileage. So if you want quick easy access to your truck bed and without the heavy cost of a retractable, this cover is probably for you. Although security isn’t as good as a retractable, it does keep your cargo out of sight out of mind. If you have an over the rail bed liner you will probably have to do some minor cutting to get this cover to fit.

What others are saying about the Extang Trifecta Tonneau Cover!

No stretching, no snaps and completely removes in less than five minutes. You can’t beat that…. A great cover that is easy to install and use, their may be possible paint damage along the bed rails after time due to wear and tear…. Everything is great about this cover including cost, installation and quality, that is why I have purchase my second and third one…. Super easy to remove and put back on. As for looks about an eight on a scale from one to ten. Easy to install and sturdier than the Torzo…. One person complained the cover didn’t quite completely cover the stake holes, about a half inch left but still praised his cover…. Another person loved his tonneau cover but had complained about two missing clips. After then receiving the clips one bolt stripped quite easily but was overnighted a new clip…. Someone was very happy with their cover but said they had to buy extra weather stripping to go behind on the bed rails below the rear window…. This person speaks he did a lot of checking around before buying. The fit was good and it literally went on in 5 minutes no problems except… The rear spring clamps would not stay clipped up inside the aluminum arch rails. when you folded cover up, the clamps would swing down toward the cover unless a person on each side held them up. Extang is aware of problem and after 3 calls to them he ended up crimping the rails tighter together as they suggested to remedy the problem…. One person says he had this cover on his Tacoma for 3 weeks now and it works flawlessly and it was great with very little or no leaking in very hard rains. It has even been said that it stayed cool under the tonneau after being in the sun all. There were a few complaints on how after a while there was a little puffiness where the Extang trifecta tonneau cover folded. One person gives this advice “Be sure to follow the directions on the bars that warn you about the clamps. They should be clipped into the bars and as far to the sides as possible before folding the cover to avoid damage.”

In Summary

Hey come on. If you your hinge is covered with the soft material you are bound to get some puffiness. I just wanted you to know what to expect. Over all most people who purchased this tonneau absolutely loved their cover and how easy it was to install and the price they paid for it. A few did not like it because they thought it was very light weight, cheaply made so to speak. Others called this a benefit. They were after having snap up covers and loved how easy it was to get access to their truck bed with the trifecta. Some were after having a fiberglass tonneau and loved this one because it was so light and easy to take completely off. Many people have commented on how dry their bed was staying after hard rains. Just think about what cover will suit you as far as how and what you use your truck bed for. You can get a free report to help you decide what type of cover is best for you, by visiting my website mentioned in the resource text below.

Why lift your Jeep? More height means more clearance for dealing with obstacles while offroading. It allows you to run larger tires, which also helps with conquering offroad challenges. Still another reason is that many folks just feel that a lifted Jeep with larger tires looks better, and I certainly agree with them. The added height and larger tires just give a Jeep a better more pronounced profile

No matter the reason for lifting your Jeep, there are a number of ways to go about it. Before you pick which one is right for you, you’ll need to make some decisions along the way. First, you’ll need to decide on what you’re looking to accomplish with the lift. Is it simply for show, or is it for go? Serious rock crawling anyone? Second, determine just how high you want to go. Looking for a little height for some mild wheeling or are you really serious about this height thing? Third, you’ll need to select the type of lift to use. Finally, install the lift or have it installed.

The basic methods for lifting a Jeep are Suspension Lift Kits, Body Lifts Kits, Shackle Lifts, Spring-Over-Axle Conversions, and Coil Spring Spacers. Jeep shackle lifts and coil spring spacers typically result in a maximum increase of 2 inches. Coil spring spacers are just what they say: spacers that are inserted under the base of the coil spring, resulting in lifting the springs higher. Shackle lifts are comprised of leaf spring shackles that are longer and lift the frame higher from the leafs. Both of these kits are rather inexpensive methods, but if you’re looking for more than a couple of inches, you’ll need to look elsewhere.

Spring-Over-Axle conversion kits allow you to change the location of the leaf spring from beneath the axle to sit on top of it. They’ll usually result in a lift of 4 inches or more. This can be increased by the size of springs you use with the over axle kit. Use of these can cause cantering, and steering linkage and driveline issues which must be addressed. It can become a little complicated for the less mechanically inclined among us (I’m one of them!). It will definitely change the handling of the rig. While the spring-over-axle conversion kits are rather inexpensive when compared to suspensions lifts, there is a good bit of time and money spent on fixing the issues it creates, which needs to be taken into consideration when assessing the costs of your various options.

With Body Lift Kits you basically unbolt the body from the frame, and place manufactured blocks between the Jeep’s body and the rolling chassis. This raises the body of your Jeep but doesn’t directly increase the clearance of your undercarriage. The body lift does allow you to run larger tires, which will increase your Jeep’s clearance.

Suspension lift kits will directly increase the clearance of a Jeep. They call for installing taller suspension components (higher lift springs and longer recoil shocks). These systems deliver lift, better articulation, and better offroad handling. Unfortunately, they are the most expensive of the lift options, but they deliver the best handling performance.

When it comes down to choosing a lift, you’ll need to determine why you’re lifting the vehicle, and how much you’re willing to pay for it. If you’re only looking to add a couple of inches and you want the lift just for looks, a body kit, coil-spring-spacers or lift shackles may be just what the doctor ordered. If you’re looking to build a Jeep that is more offroad capable then you should look at suspension lift systems.

Many serious offroaders combine the suspension lift with a body lift for additional height. Installation of any of these lifting methods will usually change the handling of a vehicle. They all raise the center of gravity and will, therefore, affect side-to-side handling and cornering. This can be addressed by adding wider tires along with the lift. Depending on the type and size of kit you install and the model of your Jeep, you may need to install a dropped Pitman arm, longer control arms, longer brake hoses, a transfer case drop, and/or a CV drive shaft and slip yoke eliminator kit (due to a change of the angle of the drive train on TJs and some Cherokees). It’s important to not cut corners when lifting your Jeep. Why spend the money on a lift just to compromise the handling performance and face potentially serious wear and tear issues with key components? Do it right the first time and it will serve you in the long run.

Whatever system you select, the one thing for sure is that the added height will help give your Jeep that rugged tough look most of us seem to prefer.

Insurance—it’s everywhere. One can insure just about anything. Are tires an investment one needs to insure? Tire insurance, also called a road hazard policy, road hazard warranty, or tire reimbursement plan, is a rapidly growing industry in the automotive world.

Tire warranty plans pay in full or in part for the replacement or repair of damaged tires and/or rims from “road hazards.” Road hazards are defined as pot holes, debris, nails, wood, and other hazards found in the road. Curbs, sidewalks, and stone walls are not road hazards. This is an important distinction to consider when deciding if tire insurance is right for you (discussed further ahead).

Tire plans last for a specific period of time and tire wear tread-depth. Some plans last 2-3 years. Others can last 5 years or 60,000 miles. Several plans come with fixed amounts of coverage: $500 per year up to 4 years. Many contracts require three years of law school to comprehend. In terms of tread depth, a tire is usually considered worn out (and thus the plan null and void) at 2/32 to 3/32 of an inch.

Another important distinction is in the type of plan.

Tire reimbursement plans are just what they say. You, the plan holder, will be reimbursed after the claims process is finalized—usually 2-8 weeks. There is an out-of-pocket expense. These plans are often sold by new car dealerships. The prices can range from $300 to $600 dollars.

Road hazard policies operate similarly to reimbursement plans. However, some tire insurance providers, in partnership with the repair facility, may have a direct-pay relationship. Thus, there would be no out-of-pocket expense, except for applicable deductibles, and items not covered in part or in full. These plans are primarily sold by tire dealers and repairshops. The prices range from $10 to $30 per tire. They also can be based on a percentage of the cost of the tire: usually 12% to 15%.

Both types of plans have a number of variables, requiring a magnifying glass to read the fine print. Also, many are pro-rated warranties, covering only a percentage of the cost of the tire based on its wear.

Claims and Coverage: Depending on the plan, claims are initiated by the repair shop. The process is fairly smooth, although there can be a significant delay from the provider for authorization. This delay may be an hour or an entire weekend. This means that you’ll have to “ok” the tire replacement, and then hope it’s authorized for the full amount, or drive on your spare.

Some plans offer national coverage either among their service facilities or from other repair centers. Claims procedures will vary. Others only provide local coverage, or coverage at the selling facility.

Limitations: Tire insurance does not mean that everything is covered. Pro-rated warranties are based on the wear and tear of the tire. You may get 75%, 50%, or only 10% coverage depending on the tread-depth. You’ll pay the remainder. While there are plans that offer full coverage, even these have limitations, or they may conflict with a repair shop’s policies.

For example, many plans allow for a maximum of $30 to mount and balance one tire, and a maximum of $15 to repair a tire. However, sport tires often have significantly higher mounting and balancing fees—upwards of $50 per tire—and tire repair prices can exceed $90. There are also discrepancies on the tire and rim prices themselves, which in the end, may have to be supplemented by the service customer.

Although there usually is not an issue with the latter given the competitive market, the service center’s price mark up may be unacceptable to the plan provider. In this case, the service center needs to lower the price or you, the service customer, need to pay the difference—or go somewhere else. This does happen!

Rim Prices and Repairs: Rim replacement is becoming less frequent. With the high cost of aluminum wheels and sport wheel packages, tire insurers have opted to have them repaired. Repair will only be done if the rim does not hold air. What this means is that even if the rim is warped—enough to cause a vibration and even premature tire wear—they won’t replace it. Rather, they will send it out to be straightened and repaired.

Rims are replaced only if the damage is so extensive that the new tire, when mounted on the rim, won’t hold air. However, even in this case, especially if it’s an expensive sport wheel, they may still attempt to repair it.

Repairing rims is a bad option. While some rim repair is acceptable, badly warped or damaged rims will in no way ever be the same.

Alignments: If a car hits a road hazard hard enough, such as a pot hole, it’s wise to have the alignment checked. Road hazard policies and tire reimbursement plans do not cover alignments. The service customer will have to pay for this procedure.

Road Hazard Protection Positives: Some plans include tire rotations, wheel balancing, and nationwide coverage.

Myths:

1) “Can I pop all 4 tires and get a new set of tires?”

You can try. But this type of claim will trigger a number of red flags with the insurer. The policy holder will likely send out adjusters and/or require photographs. You will also have a difficult time explaining how a “road hazard” caused all 4 tire pop.

2) “New tires come with a road hazard warranty.”

New tires do come with a warranty by the tire manufacturer. However, it only covers defects in workmanship. New tire warranties do not cover punctures or damages from external sources. This is why “road hazard” protection is being pushed.

New tires are rarely defective. If there is a problem, it’s usually noticed when balancing the tire. Or, there is a drivability concern such as vibration or noise. If there’s a defect it’s generally caught right away, and the tire swapped out.

3) “It’s so cheap; it’s a no-brainer, right?”

Actually, the experts don’t agree with this statement.

The Economics of Tire Warranties: An article from the Washington Post by Terence O’Hara explains the economics of extended warranties and purchase protection plans in general. It is quite fitting for road hazard warranties. He writes:

“The decision to buy an extended warranty…defies the recommendations of economists, consumer advocates and product quality experts, who all warn that the plans rarely benefit consumers and are nearly always a waste of money.

‘[Extended warranties or purchase protection plans] make no rational sense,’ Harvard economist David Cutler said. ‘The implied probability [of having an issue with the product] has to be substantially greater than the risk that you can’t afford to fix it or replace it. If you’re buying a $400 item, for the overwhelming number of consumers that level of spending is not a risk you need to insure under any circumstances.’”

In short, road hazard warranties are a waste of money. Don’t insure that which you can afford to replace.

Numbers Game and Slim Chances: Like all insurance, tire insurance plans are a numbers game. However, this is a game you have a 98% chance of losing. Insider statistics show that the percentage of claims paid out by providers is as low a 2%.

Curbs: Another interesting note is that a lot of tire damage is caused by curbs. Curb damage is not covered under most road hazard policies. High granite curbs with sharp edges slice through tens of thousands of tires per year.

You Won’t Notice: Many people don’t even notice tire damage. Other than to see if the tires are holding air, who “really” looks at tires? Tires are subject to a whole host of external influences which cause bubbles, slices and gouges.

Despite the potential dangers of damaged tires, the damage very often does not translate into any noticeable drivability issue. The point is that if you don’t notice any tire damage you can’t benefit from the coverage.

Research Shows: Those raving about the benefits of a road hazard policy are the actual folks in the industry who stand to benefit from the sale. They’ll argue that it’s so cheap—only $10 to $20 per tire. Even so, for four tires, that’s $80 based on the “possibility,” the “chance,” of damaging a tire that meets the repair/replacement requirement protocols.

Auto Insurance: If a rim and tire has incurred significant damage, it’s quite likely that other problems have resulted as well. The first is that the vehicle may have been jarred out of alignment. Secondly, hub bearings, front end components: tie rods, spindles, ball joints, and a variety of other components may have sustained damage. In this case, auto insurance, which you are already paying for, will pay for everything—brand new.

Free Road Hazard Warranties: Many tires come with road hazard warranties FREE. In other words, in an effort to secure retailers, many tire distributors provide service centers FREE road hazard insurance. Some shops pass this on to their tire customers, others sell them. Ask if the tire “comes” with a road hazard protection policy. If not, request that one be provided at no additional charge. It’s worth a shot.

Also, some car manufacturers provide road hazard warranties FREE of charge for 12 months or 12,000 miles. If you’re buying a new car or even used, ask that the dealer provide a complimentary road hazard policy (after all the wheeling and dealing is done, of course), and just before you commit.

“What’s the best road hazard policy?” Money in “your” bank account.

How much insurance does one need? You have the big four: home, health, life, and car insurance. Then there’s a second category, which starts getting a little hazy with credit card insurance, purchase protection plans, fraud insurance and more. Extended warranties, also called extended service contracts, or extended service policies fall into the mist of this second category.

Extended warranties are supposed to pay (in full or in part) for specified repairs for a specific period of time after the expiration of the factory warranty. They can be a great value. They can also be a significant waste of money. It gets quite foggy in the details. What exactly is covered? How long? How much? Are there hidden charges?

There are numerous extended warranty companies and an even wider variety of warranty packages available: silver, gold, platinum, platinum-plus, and a host of other confidence-building words. What’s the best plan, and are extended service contracts worth the money? Extended warranties, like life insurance policies, are a numbers game. They’re a gamble. You pay $2500-$4500 for a 2 year, 100,000-mile protection plan and hope that you get at least that back in warranty repairs. The provider on the other hand, hopes to pay out less than it insured.

There are three major types of plan providers: The manufacturer, the dealership/third party, and third party providers. Each one has its assets and liabilities (discussed ahead).

What exactly is covered in an extended service plan? As mentioned above, what’s covered depends on the package purchased. Some plans only cover the power train: the mechanical components of the engine, transmission, and rear-end. Others cover the power train plus some electrical components. Still others cover electrical, advanced electrical, and computer components. Some only cover what’s listed in the contract. This is called a “Stated” or “Named” contract. This means that if it’s not stated, it’s not covered. Some cover bumper-to-bumper, similar to a manufacturer warranty, except trim pieces, upholstery, exterior components, cosmetic items, and a number of other exclusions.

Never before has the adage, “The devil’s in the details,” been so applicable.

Manufacturer Extended Plans: Extended service plans from the manufacturer are the best in terms of coverage, convenience, and quality. Coverage is similar to the warranty while the vehicle was under its original factory warranty—with similar exclusions stated above. The billing is direct, meaning you don’t have to pay out-of-pocket, except for a deductible, if applicable. Quality is great too, as an extended warranty from the manufacturer will only use factory parts. They also have money, so there’s less risk of bankruptcy.

The down side of manufacturer extended service plans is that they are not cheap. These plans are generally the most expensive, require low mileage standards, and necessitate servicing your vehicle at a dealer for coverage.

Dealership/Third Party Plans: Extended warranties from a dealership are actually from a third party insurer. These providers are “generally” reputable, but not always. However, if there is an issue (such as the warranty provider filing chapter 11, which is quite frequent in the extended service contract business), the dealer “may” step in to cover any repairs that would have been covered under the defunct plan. Also, claims are easier: billing is direct because the dealership has a working relationship with the provider, and there is usually agreement on price.

Some dealers set up their own “internal extended warranty,” which is honored by the selling dealer. This is rare, and should not be confused with a manufacturer warranty. Important: extended warranties are often passed off as “manufacturer” warranties. They’re not. This is a sales trick. Also be aware that there is a significant mark up, as the dealership is merely acting as the middle man. Lastly, extended warranty companies often go bankrupt without warning.

Third Party Plans: These plans are called third party plans because they are outside the responsibility of the manufacturer and the service center performing the repairs (unless there’s a working relationship with a repair shop as stated above).

There are hundreds of extended service contract companies. Some have good reputations, some don’t. Third party plans are frequently sold by used car dealers. You may also receive an official looking notification in the mail stating that your warranty is expiring, and directing you to call an 800 number ASAP. This is a marketing tactic by an independent warranty provider. Despite the “official” appearance of the postcard or envelope, it’s not from the manufacturer. Manufacturers do not send out reminders about warranty expirations.

Given the wide-variety of third party plans there are numerous red flags.

1) Claims: Extended warranty companies will be quick to tell you that filing claims is easy, and that the service center gets paid immediately via a credit card. Thus, there’s no out-of-pocket expense for you. However, the warranty company can’t dictate a service center’s policies. Some service centers will only accept payment from the repair customer. Thus the burden is on the repair customer to fill out the forms, contact their warranty company, and await reimbursement via check, which can take 2-8 weeks.

It is the service center’s responsibility to contact the extended warranty company to let them know what’s wrong with the vehicle and to check coverage. This process can take anywhere from 20 minutes to 20 days, sometimes more, depending on the degree of repairs and especially the amount. (See $1000 and Adjusters ahead)

Service centers and extended warranty companies frequently battle over the “fair” price of repairs. Many repair shops no longer negotiate, and just state the price, leaving the contract holder (i.e., the service customer) responsible for the difference.

2) Rentals: Rental coverage is a great benefit. However, there are fixed rates and time limits. In other words, the warranty company is not going to pay to have you drive a Mercedes-Benz, even if you drive a Benz. Rental allowances range from $25 to $35 per day. Also, rental coverage is based on the number of hours it takes to repair the vehicle, NOT how long your car has been at the shop.

3) $1000 and Adjusters: Repairs that approach $1000, or that require a significant amount of work, will be cause for the warranty company to call in an adjuster to confirm the diagnosis. This will delay the repairs by a minimum of 24-48 hours. It may cost you additional money when an adjuster is involved. You may be charged to have your vehicle pulled back into the shop for inspection, as well as for the time spent with the adjuster.

4) Tear-down Charges: In many cases, an extended warranty company will require that a particular component be taken apart for inspection to determine if the repair is indeed needed and covered. This puts the service customer in a very awkward position. The customer will have to authorize potentially hundreds of dollars of tear-down expense in the hopes that the repair is covered. If it’s not, the customer is out the hundreds in tear-down PLUS the actual repair. This does happen!

Common Myths:

1) “Extended warranties cover maintenance services and brake work.”

No. Extended warranty plans do not cover maintenance or wearable items. Brake pads and rotors are wearable parts. Maintenance such as coolant, brake and transmission flushes, tune-ups, services, oil changes, bulbs, wipers, and more are not covered.

2) “They told me it’s bumper-to-bumper, so it covers everything right?”

Wrong. Not even a factory warranty covers everything. When pitching the sale for the extended warranty, one is very often lead to believe that he or she will have nothing to worry about. This is just not true on so many levels. For example, if your bumper falls off it’s not covered.

3) “I don’t have to pay anything, right?”

Wrong. Despite the claims of 100% coverage, there are many factors involved. The labor rates, labor hours, diagnostic times, parts prices, and machine work are just a few items that often conflict with a service center’s policies. Some extended contracts only pay a maximum of $55 per hour, and only allow one half hour for diagnostic time. This is generally unacceptable to the service center, as labor rates have skyrocketed to over $100 per hour at many dealerships, and average $75 at local shops. Moreover, with the complexity of today’s vehicles, diagnostic time is at a premium. The customer pays the difference.

4) “If I have an expensive problem, I can just purchase an extended service contract.”

It’s unethical, but it’s an option many attempt. However, most service contracts have a minimum time requirement before the first claim can be filed: usually three months. Also, many contracts require that your vehicle be inspected by a service center to check for pre-existing conditions—just like life insurance.

5) “My contract lasts up to 100,000 miles.”

Only if the time limit doesn’t run out first. All extended warranty plans have a time limit. For example, a typical contract will state that the vehicle is covered for two years or 100,000 miles, which ever comes first. During the sales pitch, however, the emphasis will be on the 100,000 miles, not the time.

6) “If my car breaks, it gets fixed like new.” Actually, depending on the contract, an extended warranty company can insist on installing remanufactured or even used parts.

Items commonly not covered by extended warranties: • Any component with a pre-existing condition • Any component related to a Technical Service Bulletin (TSB) • Many components that has been updated by the manufacturer • Extra components necessary “due to manufacturer updates” to complete the repair • Trim pieces: molding, cup holders, dashboard, console, body parts, glass • Many accessories: radios, DVD players, TVs • Many expensive electronics: climate control units, navigation assemblies

Service contract positives: Some service contracts are transferable, and may thus increase the resale value of a vehicle. Many come with trip interruption reimbursement, towing and 24-hour road side. Some plans can also be financed, or have E-Z Pay Plans. Others offer a money-back guarantee.

What should you do? You’ll get lots of advice about doing the research, comparing plans, and reading the fine print. This is all sound advice. But what about doing the math?

Let’s say a plan costs $2500 for 2 years or 100,000 miles, whichever comes first. To break even you’ll need a minimum of $1250 per year in covered repairs, excluding regular maintenance. Remember covered is the vital word here.

Another way to break it down is to anticipate having to pay $104.17 per month over the next two years in “covered” repairs. Do you want to take that bet?

What could happen? You could double your money or more in repair work. You could conceivably get a new engine and transmission (or used ones anyway). You could also easily spend $2500 for a service contract, and still have to pay another $2500 for repairs, which for a variety of reasons, were not covered under your plan. Now you’re out $5000.

Alternatively, you could keep the initial $2500. In many ways all an extended warranty does is prepay for repairs. You could stick the money in the bank and collect interest. Then you could withdraw the money for repairs as needed.

Another consideration that’s rarely discussed is the cause of the problems. Many car repairs problems are the result of wear and tear, neglected maintenance, physical damage, or acts of God—such as flood damage. None of this is covered. The gamble only covers failed components.

If the vehicle you’re driving does cost $2500 to $4500 in repairs due to outright failed components, is it a vehicle you even want to consider keeping? A vehicle that needs this kind of repair work due to mechanical, electrical, or computer failures may not be worth it. The $2500-$4500 would be better spent on an upgrade to a quality vehicle rather than insuring a lemon.

There’s no question that auto repair is expensive, and even quality cars break from time to time. But do they breakdown to the tune of $2500-$4500? That’s a hefty bet on a “possibility.”

Terence O’Hara from the Washington Post makes an excellent assessment about extended warranties in general. He writes:

…extended warranties play upon a basic human trait to avoid loss, even if it means sacrificing a possible future gain…the gain is all the other things of value that a consumer could buy with the money that was spent on a warranty

What’s the best plan? Money in your bank account!