Ideally, you should change your motor oil every three months or after every 3,000 miles. If you often drive around in hot or dusty conditions, you might even want to change oil more often than that.

The process is pretty simple, and as easy as one-two-three. Step one is getting ready, step two is draining the oil and changing the oil filter while step three is installing the new oil.

(1) Getting Ready

When getting ready, it is important to have the right tools and materials on hand, such as jack stands, a socket set and an oil drain pan. Let your car engine run for 10 minutes before you drain the oil since warm oil is easier to drain than cold. Make sure you park on a level surface or, if your car has a low clearance, jack it up or drive it onto a ramp. If youre jacking up the car, use two jack stands instead of one. (An additional jack costs about $20 and that is a small price to pay to spare your face from being squished by a badly balanced car.) You might want to check your cars manual about the weight of oil and type of oil filter you need to use.

(2) Draining the Oil and Changing the Oil Filter

To drain the oil, crawl under the car and look for the oil drain plug under the engine near the front of the car. Position your pan beneath the plug then use a socket wrench to loosen the plug, turning counterclockwise. Once loosened, you can use your hand to remove the plug and the hot oil starts pouring out. Make sure all the old oil is drained into the pan. Once its completely drained, wipe the drain plug and the plug opening. Now replace the drain plug gasket and use a wrench to reinstall the plug but dont make it too tight.

Next, look for the oil filter. They are usually at the side of the engine. Place the oil pan beneath the filter in case any oil remains. Unscrew the oil filter (use gloves if it is too hot) and wipe the filter area clean, especially where it mounts to the engine. Dab a bit of your new oil on the rubber seal of the new filter and then screw it in by hand. You dont have to use a wrench to tighten the oil filter.

(3) Installing New Oil

Remove the oil filler cap thats located at the top of the engine. Position the funnel at the opening and slowly start pouring in the new oil You might want to check your manual for the proper oil capacity but, typically, you will need four or five quarts of oil. Once youre done, put back the oil filler cap. Start the engine, let it run for a minute and then check the dipstick. If you need to, add more oil. Now check for any leaks near the oil drain plug and the filter. If you do find leaks, simply tighten the plug or oil filter.

Youre done. But dont forget to clean up. Carefully wipe away any excess oil and put the old oil into a plastic container then dispose of it. Dont just pour it anywhere, though. Better to take it to the recycle center or other authorized locations.

At last you have the car of your dreams and you spent large amounts of both time and money on restoring it and you now want to keep it in the same pristine condition. Unfortunately winter is coming and you do not want to drive it in now the weather is turning bad. So you have decided that you want to put your car into storage for the winter months and as cheaply as possible? Yet you also want to be able to get it back onto the road as soon as the weather is good again and find it in the same condition as when it went into storage?

Well hopefully the information contained within this article will help you to make an informed decision on the type of car storage you will use.

Indoor Storage Of course this is the best way for any one to go when looking for storage for their prized car and is the best option especially if you will be away for any extended period of time.

But because you don’t have a garage you are now looking for an alternative. Luckily there are many indoor storage facilities around which will gladly rent storage space that is big enough for a vehicle. If you can try and find a facility where they will run the engine on your car for you every month or two. However, you may find that they will charge you extra for this facility, but it will save you money in the long term as the vehicle will be ready for you to drive after a long lay over period.

When preparing your car for storage it is important that it is clean. Wait until you have a warm dry day and then completely wash and wax the car. Also make sure that you clean the underbody and around the wheel areas as well as any dirt left on the car holds moisture and when combined with air will result in result being allowed to grow.

Also thoroughly clean the car inside. Use either a shop/garage vacuum or a household one in order to get into all the nooks and crannies in your car (it is important to get rid of any dirt or crumbs etc., from the car prior to storage). Leaving such items in the car will only make it a place that small creatures (mice, rats) will be drawn to and make their home inside it.

If you can get the carpets thoroughly cleaned and do this before you do any thing else so that it gives them time to dry out before you put the car into storage.

Next take out the spark plugs and put some oil into the cylinders as this will prevent the cylinder walls, pistons and valves from rusting. You can use regular motor oil but a can of fogging oil from a marine supply store is a good alternative. Now you need to turn the engine by hand half a dozen times to make sure that the oil coats everything. Before you reinstall the spark plugs apply a little anti-seize to them.

Also make sure that the petrol (gas) tank is full as this will reduce the risk of how much water is available to be absorbed by the petrol (gas).

Now we come to the electrical system of your car. Remove the battery cables (negative cable first) and then lift out the battery from the engine. Next you need to wipe the batter down with a battery cleaner (this removes any moisture holding dirt or grease from it). Now you place the battery on a clean dry surface. Attach the battery to a trickle charger which will help preserve the battery’s charge. Also inspect the battery for any rust or corrosion.

You will then need to lubricate the hood latches, hinges and door hinges if you are able to check the brake fluid (flush it out and replace if necessary). Now you will need to check the coolant level (make sure there is enough to protect the cooling system from winter temperatures).

If you want to keep rodents and other small animals from chewing the ignition wires and other wiring in your car (place clean rags into the engine air intake, fresh air intake (under the windshield) and the exhaust. A good idea is to get a big box of mothballs and spread them around and under the car (this seems to keep undesirable elements away from the car).

As for the tyres they will after extended periods of time when not moving they will develop flat spots and the best way to prevent this is to put the car up on jacks.

Now remove the wiper blades as this will prevent them from becoming glued to the windshield.

Now you carried out all the necessary things about there is nothing left for you to do but to put it in to storage and lock up knowing you can enjoy it in the future?

Have you ever considered making biodiesel? Well now is the time to start considering it. Anyone who reads the papers knows that fossil fuels are hurting our environment. Increased emissions of greenhouse gases are polluting the atmosphere and creating the effect of global warming. The effects are already seen in rising temperatures, poor air quality, acid rain, and failing health.

An additional dilemma with fossil fuels is that the resources are becoming fast depleted. Although technically renewable, nature fills fossil fuel reserves at a very slow rate, and companies tap them very quickly. With the combined effect of fossil fuels being required, they are also bad for the environment and soon to be gone as the world is finding itself in an awful dilemma. Yet this dilemma may be solvable by making biodiesel fuel as an affordable and clean alternative.

In the past, we have attempted to solve the fossil fuel problem using a combination of two methods. The first method has been to encourage people to use less fuel through education. This is ineffective and unnecessary. Although some people may be excessive in their fuel consumption, our society’s dependence upon technology has created a system in which that consumption is necessary.

A second solution has been to increase the cost. Although rising prices are a side effect of increased demand and decreased supply, they also serve to limit the amount of fuel people can afford to consume. Unfortunately, this means the wealthy can still use just as much, while everyone else cannot. If everyone was making biodiesel, there would be no limit, allowing people to drive their vehicles to work and heat their homes in the winter easily.

It is bad enough that fossil fuels and the oil companies that peddle them should be polluting the water, air, and land. Now that those resources are almost gone, should society stand by paying exorbitant prices, waging wars to secure more resources, and denying people much needed comforts? Instead of limiting pollution and saving fossil fuel reserves at the expense of ethics and quality of life, people can have it all by making biodiesel fuel.

Although it may sound complicated, the production of this alternative fuel source is actually quite simple. All it takes is a desire to make the change, a little dedication, and the right information. Unfortunately, as with every new and alternative technology, there is plenty of false information and companies wanting to exploit consumers.

Anyone interested in saving themselves money while saving the environment should seek online information that is fact based and backed by a reputable website. When conducting your own research, start with http://www.ultimate-biodiesel-guide.com. This site not only offers a comprehensive manual, but also a complete site with additional resources, newsletter subscription, and a lot of free bonuses. In addition, the brilliant minds behind the site are always available to answer any questions or concerns about biodiesel fuel. They can be reached directly using the site’s interactive contact page.

According to a new survey by JD Power and Associates, approximately one third of consumers in the United States consider fuel economy to be a key factor when purchasing a new car. With fuel economy, dependence on foreign oil, pollution, and global warming weighing heavy on the minds of so many people recently, it may be a surprise to learn that in 1992, General Motors actually produced a vehicle that achieved 100 miles per gallon (MPG).

In order to get a better idea of what General Motors has been doing for the last 25 years, it is important to first learn about another amazing vehicle: The GM TPC. The TPC (which stands for “Two Person Commuter”) was able to obtain 75 miles-per-gallon. It weighed approximately 1000 pounds and resembled a Geo Metro. GM abandoned the project vehicle, which contained a frugal 3-cylinder engine, when they needed to add another 200 pounds of reinforcement. This unfortunate turn of events can be blamed on GM’s need to comply with America’s then lax safety laws.

While the existence of such a vehicle may be shocking to some, what is even more shocking is the existence of other prototypes made by General Motors that met the same demise. These vehicles included the GM Lean Machine (80 MPG) in 1982, along with a number of other fuel efficient vehicles like the GM Aero-X, the GM Aero 2000, and the finally the GM Ultralite (which had achieved 100 miles-per-gallon). While Honda was leading the world with the Civic VX in 1992 (achieving 50 miles-per-gallon) the USA- owned General Motors was producing 100 MPG vehicles behind the scenes, all the while selling 20 MPG vehicles to the public.

100 miles per gallon is not only obtainable, but it already has been obtained.

One obvious question must be asked. Why are these high gas mileage vehicles not available for sale? Why do companies like General Motors, Honda, Toyota, and Ford continue to sell 30 MPG vehicles when something so much better was made before? The answer to that question is, of course, a complex one. Market analyses, surveys, polls, government regulations, and other red tape held back efficiency.

The short answer to this question is simple: While the U.S. continues to sell its traditional vehicles, other vehicles are being bought and sold far from America, by the same companies.

Vehicles that can attain over 70 miles per gallon have been sold in Europe and Japan for many years. Recently, Volkswagen produced a vehicle called the “Lupo” that is a perfect example. This vehicle, which achieves 78 miles per gallon, likely will never be sold in the USA. For the 2007 model year, Honda has introduced the Fit to the US Market (known in other parts of the world as the “Jazz”). In Japan, the Jazz comes standard with a smaller engine and a few fresh ideas to help boost fuel economy. In the USA, the Fit doesn’t have the smaller engine and isn’t even an option.

Americans have always loved big cars, or at least that’s what they tell us. They, of course, are the auto manufacturers. This has nothing to do with conspiracy theories and everything to do with economics. When General Motors sells a giant truck or SUV, they make a lot of money. When they sell a small two-person commuter, they make next-to-nothing. As a consequence of this realization, all that was needed have been broadcasts of a few finely focused commercials to the citizens of the richest country in the world. Manufacturers have persuaded the citizenry that they absolutely need these “Tanks on Wheels”. Profits skyrocket. To remind Americans that there are no options, merely look at the fact that the options heave never been presented.

General Motors had the chance to be the world leader in fuel economy, which it turned down to be the world leader in SUVs. GM is not alone, as every other auto manufacturer has produced similar vehicles over the last 25 years and denied the U.S. access to them.

Americans should not only ask how they can get better gas mileage, but most importantly ask why they have never been given that option in the first place. In a world where wars are waged over oil, more options should be offered to a concerned public. Perhaps blowing the dust off of 25 year old blue prints is a good place to start.

For the average individual who knows little about cars or mechanics, buying a used car can be a worrying experience. Buying a car is often one of the biggest purchases we make in our lives and the nagging doubt of whether or not you are about to buy a lemon always makes buying a used car difficult. So how do you go about choosing a car that is unlikely to be a lemon?

If you have found a “bargain” or a car you like the look of go check it out. At this stage it is always useful to take someone who knows something about cars with you if you can. If you haven’t got anyone whose opinion you can trust then you are going to have to use your own instincts.

Check for obvious accident damage. Accident damaged cars can be spotted by little tell tail signs. Look for signs of overspray to panels, bumpers and fittings, look for areas of paintwork that are inconsistent with the general condition of the car (these may indicate filled dents, filled rotten patches) and check that all the tyres are wearing evenly (uneven wear may indicate the car isn’t running straight and true as a result of a crash or poorly executed accident repair).

If you are happy there are no obvious clues to suggest accident damage check the general condition of the car for wear. Is the amount of wear consistent with the mileage of the car? Worn foot mats, shiny steering wheels and worn/damaged driver seats are not what you would expect to find on a low mileage car.

Does the car have missing interior fittings or scratched paint work? Would you expect a car you owned from new for a number of years to have accrued a similar amount of damage? Make a mental note of the amount of wear for bargaining purposes should you decide to buy the car.

Check the vehicle for rot in the doorways and wheel arches. A little rot can become a serious costly problem after as little as one year. A lot of rot, especially to structural areas of the car where panels and sections of the car come together could indicate the car is not safe to drive.

Once you have established the car looks to be cosmetically genuine and that the condition is as you would expect for the cars age start to look at the mechanics of the car. Check the oil on the dipstick. Are there bubbles in the oil? If there are bubbles this is a sure sign of water in the oil and likely to result in expensive repair. Check the water filler. Is there a white residue on the cap or visible in the filler area. This is an expensive sign of oil in the water. Check the oil filter (easy to spot, generally looks like a brightly painted tin can sticking out of the side of the engine) does it look to be recently fitted or like it has been on for some time. This is a standard part that is replaced at service and can indicate how the owner has been treating the car.

Start the motor up. Does the engine rattle or have a pronounced ticking noise or does it sound healthy? Is the exhaust loud or well silenced you don’t need to be paying for a new exhaust system. Once the engine has warmed go look at the exhaust. Are there large quantities of smoke, black or white being omitted? Both can indicate expensive faults. At this stage check to make sure headlamps, indicator and brake lights work.

If all seems fine the next step is a test drive. Check the steering. Is it light or vague, neither is a good sign. Does the wheel have a large amount of play in it? Steering is important for clear safety reasons. The steering should be responsive and direct. Neither to heavy nor light.

Check the brakes. Do they inspire confidence? They should pull the car firmly to a stop in a straight line without fading or feeling as if they are about to run out. Find a car park or space where you can turn the car on full lock in both directions. Do the front wheels grind or shriek? This could indicate expensive wheel bearing problems.

If you do not come across these problems then it is fair to say you have a solid used car that is unlikely to be a lemon. Now if you can recall all the little details you spotted you can use these points to bargain a good price and buy the used car with the confidence that you have avoided a lemon.

This week, over 50 national and local experts gather in NYC to discuss how the city and the country can prepare for higher energy prices, and begin our transition to a low-energy, sustainable society, while slowing global warming.

Higher fuel prices are due to many factors, such as the supply / demand crunch, and instability in oil-producing countries. One critical factor being more widely discussed, with editorials in the New York Times and Newsday, and a report from the Army Corps of Engineers, is that world oil production is expected to peak and begin declining before 2010, driving prices permanently upwards. … [PRWEB]

(NC)-The winter months can play havoc on one of your most important investments — your car. Whether you drive a brand new sports car or a reliable family vehicle, regularly cleaning and protecting the car from harsh elements will help maximize the vehicle’s value and longevity. The automotive experts at Canadian Tire have these tips to help give your car a fresh start heading into spring and summer.

Wash and dry

• Rinse entire vehicle before washing to remove loose debris.
• Do not use dish or laundry soap as they strip away protective wax and natural oils in paint. For best results, use specially formulated car wash soaps like Simoniz Car Wash.
• Always use a clean soft wash mitt, brush or chenille pad, rinsing frequently to remove harmful debris. The Simoniz Details Accessory Kit, available at Canadian Tire, has everything you need to safely and efficiently clean your car without harming the paint.
• Use two buckets - one for your car wash and use a separate bucket for rinsing the wash mitt.
• Start drying immediately after washing and rinsing to prevent water spots using a soft microfibre or cotton towel, chamois, PVA towel, or a silicone squeegee.
• Don’t forget to dry doorjambs and under the trunk lid.

Wax and polish

• Automotive waxes create a protective shield for the car’s paint against harmful elements like acid rain, UV rays, bugs, tar and tree sap.
• For best results, wax in warm dry weather in a shaded area. Do not wax the vehicle in direct sunlight.
• Always apply wax with a clean, fresh applicator and buff with a terry towel or diaper cloth.
• For a truly superior shine, clean your paint prior to waxing with a clay bar from Meguiars or Mothers.
• To help reduce time and effort, use an electric polisher. For an effective and more consistent application, try any of the Simoniz Random Orbit Polishers. They use less wax than working by hand and avoid causing paint damage from overbuffing

Interior & Exterior Cleaning

• Tire dressings restore the glossy black look of tires. Michelin’s Tire Care replaces ingredients in your tires that are depleted over time.
• Use only ammonia-free glass cleaner on your car’s windows, as ammonia will damage window tinting.
• Protectants help to nourish the vinyl and rubber on your car and protect it from UV ray damage. Try using protectant on the car’s weather-stripping, it will help protect it from the elements and prolong its life.
• Keep the air inside your car clean and fresh with an air purifier specially designed for drivers. The 12 Volt Air Purifier / Ionizer neutralizes unpleasant odors, smoke and other pollutants and plugs directly into the 12V cigarette lighter socket.

Source: News Canada