Gumiyo has teamed with CARFAX to be the first to deliver vehicle reports to your cell phone. It’s as simple as texting GUMYO (48696) with a message including CARFAX and the Vehicle Identification Number (VIN).

This gives the potential car buyer quick historical information if the car had major damage that was repaired. A quick text message would alleviate any potential questions when purchasing the car.

Before we start to look at why using an insurance broker could be the perfect way to buy your Motor Trader Insurance let’s start off with a few supposed truths about the insurance industry.

Number 1 – Let’s be honest from the beginning and just say it – most people don’t like insurance. For most people losses rarely occur and therefore they are paying out insurance premiums year on year and yet they don’t actually see any real benefit of it.

Number 2 – Most people (even those who have suffered a loss and have made a claim) see insurance as too expensive with actual insurance companies seen as money grabbing and having no purpose other than to make money.

Number 3 – People see insurance as either boring and sold by men in suits or sold using annoying advertising on the television promising cheap or the cheapest insurance and delivering call centres who seemingly have replaced customer service with queues and staff who don’t really know what they are talking about.

If you’re a Motor Trader who needs to purchase Motor Trade Insurance and any of the 3 points above ring a bell with you then you really need to read on and discover just 4 reasons why using an insurance broker could be just what you need when you next buy your business insurance.

The first reason for using an insurance broker is that they can save you time. Yes you could spend time trawling the internet, thumbing through the yellow pages or ringing around a selection of insurance companies but you could also contact just 1 insurance broker and let them do the work for you. As a motor trader I’m sure you’re time could be put to better use elsewhere anyway.

The second reason why you might want to use an insurance broker when purchasing motor trader insurance is that providing they are independent (that is they have access to more than one policy) they can search to find you the very best cover. Cover that in some cases isn’t available anywhere else.

Another reason for choosing an insurance broker is that they can very often provide you with a level of service that you won’t find elsewhere. Go direct with an insurance company and there’s every chance you’ll be faced with queues, call centres and people without a real understanding of your needs. However choose the right insurance broker who understands the motor trade and you can benefit from advice and guidance aimed at reducing your exposure to risk. And in the event of a loss occurring they will even act on your behalf to make sure your claim is settled quickly and favourably.

The fourth and final reason why using an insurance broker could be just what you need when buying motor trade insurance is that they could save you money and we’d all no doubt like to be paying less for our insurance. A good broker will therefore be able to take advantage of the facilities they have with the leading insurance companies so you benefit from the cover, the service, the time savings and the premium savings all from the same source.

Motor Trade Insurance doesn’t have to complicated or expensive so find the right broker and make sure the price is right for your Business Insurance.

Whether to buy a new car or buy a used car is often times the first decision that needs to be arrived at before you can actively begin perusing purchasing your next vehicle.

Let’s take a look at some tips, pros, and cons when it comes to making this decision.

First of all, having been in the automotive business for many years, I almost always lean toward finding a good used car that fits what I am looking for. For me, I believe that used cars offer the best value for your dollar. In most cases, you’ll find used car departments are much more used to and willing to negotiate the price that they have posted on the car. From a negotiating standpoint, most used cars won’t have all of those superfluous dealer ‘add-ons’ stuck on the window either that will just never do.

In the automotive market, used cars will most certainly come with a lower initial price tag than a comparably equipped new car. And not only will the price be lower, you may also find that so is your cost to insure the used car as well as the tags, and taxes. Depreciation being what it is; means that with a car a couple of years old, the biggest depreciation hit has already occurred. And from a tangible perspective, you may have a better chance of getting those upgrades you’d like to have on the used car that you couldn’t otherwise afford going with the new.

Yet, with all of this, buying a used car isn’t for everyone. Finding a used vehicle that fits one’s entire car buying criteria can be a tough exercise in balancing what you want with the value versus risk inherent when it comes to used cars.

Not so many years ago, reliability was a major concern when purchasing a used car… and rightfully so. Today however, reliability problems are a fraction of what they used to be. Today’s vehicles, when properly maintained will easily go for 100,000 miles and it’s not uncommon for vehicles to be motoring along as they approach 200,000 miles or more. And with all of the information now available online, the risk factor is again reduced even a bit more.

Even though more reliable today, buying a used car for people means buying a car that is probably out of its original bumper to bumper warranty. This alone, is enough to repel many potential car buyers back to the new car side of the dealership.

As you know, if you are looking at buying a used car, you are probably looking at a car that is outside the factory warranty or at least would have very little remaining. With no warranty you’ll be on the hook to pay for any needed repairs out of your own pocket. However, the biggest expense for most all cars today are the things that aren’t covered by any manufacturer’s warranty anyway; items such as brakes, tires, alignment, batteries, etc.

Of course nobody can guarantee that you won’t encounter a lemon. No matter what the make and model, no manufacturer can produce a vehicle that can withstand years of neglect and/or abuse. Always, always, always give the used car a thorough inspection both by yourself and a qualified mechanic; doing this will catch most problems that may be looming on the horizon.

When it comes to financing the purchase of a used car, you find that the going interest rates will typically be higher than new car rates. This is definitely a piece of the puzzle you’ll want to check out. There is no rule of thumb as to what the difference in the interest rate will be between the two because there are just too many determining variables involved such as; the economy, rebates and incentives involved on the new car side, your credit, length of financing, and even the type of used car you’re looking at. Be sure to crunch the numbers for both sides.

With used cars, insurance can save you some money as well because you’ll typically pay less for your insurance on a like model from a few years past. The reason is simple; less cost of replacement for the insurance company and used cars are generally not high on the stolen lists.

And finally, (the latest) safety features could be a concern if you’re looking at used car (particularly if you’re going back a few model years).

All in all, if the touch, feel, and smell of a new car, isn’t a top priority for you, I think you’ll find that a well thought out used car purchase you can get more car and features and still be within your budget.

Selling your car or truck? It’s important to keep in mind that prospective used car buyers evaluate the person selling the care almost as much, if not more, than they examine the car itself. In order to win their interest and their trust it is crucial that you should make a good impression. Wherever possible possible, strive make your prospective customers feel comfortable and be open in your response to their inquiries.

Be ready to answer their questions as soon as prospective buyers start calling. Answer questions posed over the phone honestly in an effort to prepare callers for what to expect when they see the car. This works to save both you and the customer a lot of time and work by making only those appointments that have a reasonable chance of becoming a sale. Furthermore, strive to make appointments with each customer for a specific time, rather than leaving them to some vague time such as "after work", or "Saturday afternoon".

Remember that making an appointment when selling a car increases the chances of the buyers showing up. Don’t feel obligated to wait for a late customer. To help things go smoothly, request a contact number (preferably a cell phone) and take it in stride if some prospective buyers don’t show. Cancellations, with or without notice, are simply part of the process.

It should be expected that any potential buyer will ask to test-drive the car. Ride along with them so you can answer questions, as well as ensure the safety of the automobile. There is also the possibility that the customer may not be familiar with the area, so riding along with them allows you to serve as a guide.

Some of the buyers are likely to want to have the car inspected by a mechanic. If a mechanic has already checked it, this is the right time to show that paperwork. This is a reasonable request in any transaction such as buying or selling a car.

Protect Yourself

It is important to be cautious and to take steps to ensure your safety and the safety of your interests. For example, holding onto a buyer’s driver’s license is a reasonable safeguard if a buyer insists on going on a test-drive by his or herself. If the buyer has a problem with this arrangement there’s a very good chance that allowing an unsupervised test-drive would go against your best interests. On the other hand, it’s not unreasonable for a buyer to want the car checked by a different mechanic if it has already been checked by yours. Be prepared to go with the flow a little bit, and you are more likely to get a sale.

Many parents will buy their teenagers their first used car shortly after they turn sixteen. Once mom or dad has helped their teenage driver find a good and reliable used car it is time to find car insurance that won’t cost them an arm and a leg for their new driver. New drivers will typically have higher premiums than older drivers who have more driving experience.

Even though new drivers are considered inexperienced, the premium that you pay doesn’t have to empty your checking account. In fact, parents can save a little bit of money by using their existing insurance policy. Many companies will offer “multi” discounts. This means that if the policyholder has more than one car on their policy, then they will usually get a discount on the additional cars. Other insurance companies will offer auto and home insurance together and this can make paying your insurance even easier. If you are adding a new driver and car to the policy you may receive multi-driver and multi-car discounts.

If the new driver has had a driver education course such as Driver’s Ed in high school, then you may also be able to receive a discount. Many schools offer these courses and if they do not, you may find them available through private companies. You can also take the course and receive a discount for both you and your new driver. Many insurance companies offer these discounts and because many states are requiring that students take these courses, then the situation is even better for you.

Some insurance companies also offer a Good Student discount. These programs award students by offering discounts to students who make good grades in school. If a student also takes a defensive driving course voluntarily, you may also be able to save by sending the certificate to the insurance company, as most insurance companies offer defensive driving discounts as long as the course was not a requirement for a speeding ticket.

Teens have higher accident numbers than any other age of driver. As they progress from being 16 to 17 to 18, their driving gets better as they gain experience. This is why it is important to be prepared for teen car insurance to be more expensive when they first begin driving. They are a higher risk because they tend to be involved in many more accidents. As a parent, you will need to expect to pay that higher premium, but as the teen becomes more experience you can expect that premium to begin dropping on a yearly basis. To make car insurance more affordable for your teen, you should be prepared to budget in that amount when purchasing them a used car.

Car insurance is also a good opportunity for students to learn responsibility. They should be able to help parents pay the premium through summer or part time jobs. They should also learn the effect that a traffic ticket or accident will have on their premium. They will also be able to see how being a good student allows you and them to save money on their insurance.

For more Car buying tips visit Atlanta Used Cars at http://www.UsedCarsAtlanta.us and Dallas Used Cars at http://www.UsedCarsDallas.us.

If you don’t have enough cash on hand to purchase the car straight out, you will need to consider your financing options. If you are a smart shopper you should figure out how you are going to finance the used car before you begin shopping. There are three main components that will come into play when you purchase a car. The first is the monthly payment, the second is the down payment and the third is the price of the car.

The monthly payment is going to be how much you can afford to pay each month. This will help the lender determine the life of the loan and when the payments will be due. Many lenders will require that you use the car to secure the loan. The car can be used as collateral and in the event that you default on the loan the lender will repossess the car to satisfy your debt. Monthly payments can also be lowered if you are able to make a down payment.

The down payment is how much cash you can afford to put down before financing the car. This will help to reduce your monthly payments as well. The better a down payment you are able to supply to the bank, the less amount of money you will have to finance through the lender.

The purchase price will be determined to the answer to the two previous questions. These numbers are important to have handy when you are negotiating over the price of a car. If you have these two figures in hand while discussing the price of the car, you will be able to remind yourself of what you can really afford to spend.

You have two options in financing a car. One is to finance the vehicle though your personal bank or credit union. This route is highly recommended, as you will be able to work with lenders that you are already familiar with. You will also be able to be eased in your mind, as your money is going to be sent to a reliable institution. Lower interest rates can also be found at reliable lenders. Using a bank or credit union also makes it easier to stick to your budgeted amount and allows you to find competitive interest rates.

Your other option is to finance through the dealer. This is an option for those individuals who find their credit rating less than good. Many dealers work with people with poor credit and will prearrange financing through an independent source.

When you are car shopping you will want to be sure that you leave yourself enough time to arrange the loan before purchasing the car. You want to be prepared to hand over the money in the event that you do find the used car of your dreams that you have been shopping for. You also do not want to be dependent on borrowing money from a dealer, as they often do not have the best financing and interest rates available, especially on their used cars.

For more Car buying tips visit Atlanta Used Cars at http://www.UsedCarsAtlanta.us and Dallas Used Cars at http://www.UsedCarsDallas.us.

Since 1984 Formula One teams have been required to build the chassis in which they compete, and consequently the terms “team” and “constructor” are more or less interchangeable.

This requirement distinguishes the sport from series such as IRL, Champ Cars, and NASCAR, which allow teams to purchase chassis, and “spec series” such as GP2, which require all cars be kept to an identical specification.

In its early years, Formula One teams sometimes also built their engines, though this became less common with the increased involvement of major car manufacturers such as BMW, Mercedes-Benz, Renault, Toyota, and Honda, whose large budgets rendered privately built engines less competitive (and redundant).

Early manufacturer involvement came in the form of a “factory team” (that is, one owned and staffed by a major car company), such as those of Alfa Romeo, Ferrari (FIAT) or Renault. Companies such as Climax, Repco, Cosworth, Hart, Judd and Supertec, which had no direct team affiliation, often sold engines to teams who could not afford to manufacture them. As the manufacturers’ deep pockets and engineering ability took over, almost all engines are now produced by major manufacturers.

After having virtually disappeared by the early 1980s, factory teams made a comeback in the 1990s and 2000s, and now form half the grid with Toyota, Ferrari (FIAT), Honda, Renault and BMW either setting up their own teams or buying out existing ones. Mercedes-Benz (DaimlerChrysler) owns 40% of the McLaren team and manufactures the team’s engines. Commercial engine supplier Cosworth exited the sport at the end of 2006. Thus all the teams will run on factory supplied engines from 2007.

The sport’s 1950 debut season saw eighteen teams compete, but due to high costs many dropped out quickly. In fact, such was the scarcity of competitive cars for much of the first decade of Formula One that Formula Two cars were admitted to fill the grids. Ferrari is the only still-active team which competed in 1950, and as of 2006 eleven teams remain on the grid, each fielding two cars. Although teams rarely disclose information about their budgets, it is estimated that they range from US$66 million to US$400 million each.

Entering a new team in the Formula One World Championship requires a £25 million (about US$47 million) up-front payment to the FIA, which is then repaid to the team over the course of the season. As a consequence, constructors desiring to enter Formula One often prefer to buy an existing team: B.A.R.’s purchase of Tyrrell and Midland’s purchase of Jordan allowed both of these teams to sidestep the large deposit.

Each car is assigned a number. The previous season’s World Drivers’ Champion is designated number 1, with his teammate given number 2. Numbers are then assigned according to each team’s position in the previous season’s World Constructors’ Championship. There have been exceptions to this rule, such as in 1993 and 1994, when the current World Drivers’ Champion (Nigel Mansell and Alain Prost, respectively) was no longer competing in Formula One. In this case the drivers for the team of the previous year’s champion are given numbers 0 (Damon Hill, on both occasions) and 2 (Prost himself and Ayrton Senna - replaced after his death by David Coulthard and occasionally Nigel Mansell - respectively). The number 13 has not been used since 1974, before which it was occasionally assigned at the discretion of individual race organizers.

Before 1996, only the world championship winning driver and his team generally swapped numbers with the previous champion – the remainder held their numbers from prior years, as they had been originally set at the start of the 1974 season. For many years, for example, Ferrari held numbers 27 & 28, regardless of their finishing position in the world championship. As privateer teams quickly folded in the early 1990s, numbers were frequently shuffled around, until the current system was adopted in 1996.

Michael Schumacher holds the record for having won the most Drivers’ Championships (seven) and Ferrari holds the record for having won the most Constructors’ Championships (fourteen). Jochen Rindt became the only posthumous World Champion after a fatal accident at the 1970 Italian Grand Prix.

Modern Formula One cars are mid-engined open cockpit, open wheel single-seaters. The chassis is made largely of carbon fibre composites, rendering it light but extremely stiff and strong. The whole car, including engine, fluids and driver weighs only 605 kg. In fact this is the minimum weight set by the regulations – the cars are so light that they often have to be ballasted up to this minimum weight.

The cornering speed of Formula One cars is largely determined by the aerodynamic downforce that they generate, which pushes the car down onto the track. This is provided by ‘wings’ mounted at the front and rear of the vehicle, and by ground effect created by the movement of air under the flat bottom of the car.

A significant difference in the design of the latest breeds of F1 cars is that they make far greater use of vortex “lift,” or in this case, downforce. Since a vortex is a rotating fluid that creates a low pressure zone at its center, creating vortices lowers the overall local pressure of the air.

Since low pressure is what is desired under the car, allowing normal atmospheric pressure to press the car down from the top, by creating vortices, downforce can be augmented while still staying within the rules.

The aerodynamic design of the cars is very heavily constrained to limit performance and the current generation of cars sport a large number of small winglets, “barge boards” and turning vanes designed to closely control the flow of the air over, under and around the car. The “barge boards” in particular are designed, shaped, configured, adjusted and positioned not to create downforce directly, as with a conventional wing or underbody venturi. They are designed so that air spillage from their edges will create these vortices.

The other major factor controlling the cornering speed of the cars is the design of the tyres. Tyres in Formula One are not ’slicks’ (tyres with no tread pattern) as in most other circuit racing series. Each tyre has four large circumferential grooves on its surface designed to further limit the cornering speed of the cars. Suspension is double wishbone or multilink all round with pushrod operated springs and dampers on the chassis. Carbon-Carbon disc brakes are used for reduced weight and increased frictional performance. These provide a very high level of braking performance and are usually the element which provokes the greatest reaction from drivers new to the formula.

Engines are mandated as 2.4 litre normally aspirated V8s, with many other constraints on their design and the materials that may be used. The 2006 generation of engines rev close to 20,000 rpm and produce up to 740 bhp (552 kW).[10] The previous generation of 3-litre V10 engines are also allowed, albeit with their revs limited and with an air restrictor to limit performance.

Engines run on unleaded fuel closely resembling publicly available petrol. The oil which lubricates and protects the engine from overheating is very similar in viscosity to water. For 2007 the V8 engines will be restricted to 19,000 rpm with limited development areas allowed, following the engine specification freeze from the end of 2006. As outright speed and power are effectively being capped it is widely believed that teams will work on improving reliability, and the torque range of the engine to improve driveability.

A wide variety of technologies – including active suspension, ground effect aerodynamics and turbochargers – are banned under the current regulations. Despite this the 2006 generation of cars can reach speeds of up to 350 km/h (around 220 mph) at some circuits (Monza).A Honda Formula One car, running with minimum downforce on a runway in the Mojave desert achieved a top speed of 415 km/h (258 mph) in 2006. According to Honda, the car fully met the FIA Formula One regulations.

Even with the limitations on aerodynamics, at 160 km/h, aerodynamically generated downforce is equal to the weight of the car and the often repeated claim that Formula One cars are capable of ‘driving on the ceiling’ remains true in principle, although it has never been put to the test. At full speed downforce of 2.5 times the car’s weight can be achieved.

The downforce means that the cars can achieve a lateral force of around four and a half times the force of gravity (4.5 g) in cornering - a high-performance road car might achieve around 1 g. Consequently in corners the driver’s head is pulled sideways with a force equivalent to 25 kilograms. Such high lateral forces are enough to make breathing difficult and the drivers need supreme concentration to maintain their focus for the 1 to 2 hours that it takes to cover 305 kilometres.

Why Have A Car Sub Woofer?

Why should you have a car subwoofer? First you need to learn what one is. Well a subwoofer is a speaker that is powered by an amplifier tuned in to and plays back low-frequency sound or bass. Subwoofers create low-frequency sounds and contain those low notes that are missing from most car stereo systems. They are heavily used in the streetcar-tuning scene; many cars out there have massive I.C.E (In Car Entertainment) installs. There is even a whole range of music designed to push subwoofers to their limits and give them a thorough workout. The genre is known as “the bass track”.

The Many Types Of Car Subwoofer:

Subwoofers are either passive or powered, with the passive systems drawing power off of the car’s head unit, and the powered systems have an independent powerline hooked up to them, usually right off the battery. Car subwoofers are mounted in boxes and placed in the boots or trunk of the car, or in other places such as the cars parcel shelf or the space beneath the car’s rear window. Car subwoofers also vary dramatically in size, on average from 6.5 inches all the way up to 60 inches in the crazy monster subwoofer category. There are plenty of relatively inexpensive subwoofers that are available, however the car subwoofer is a bit of a luxury item, so buy the best you can afford.

A Typical Car Subwoofer Setup:

The car subwoofer is mounted in a box made of MDF usually, although some of them come in tubes, known as bass tubes. Typically they are hooked up to a single channel amplifier set with a low crossover to provide the bass tones. Independent amplification is necessary, because the amount of power subwoofers need, can be too much for the car’s standard audio equipment. Since the car subwoofer is usually mounted in a box, they can take up a lot of room. If you want to fit a subwoofer you must be ready to sacrifice a substantial amount of space in order to house this specialty item. However, there are systems these days that place the car subwoofer and unused nooks and crannies of the car, these are specially built pod’s if you like and can be found for most popular makes of car.

Getting A Subwoofer Of Your Own:

A car subwoofer is a must in the overall high-end I.C.E setup. It is wise to choose the best product that you can afford, and not sacrifice price for quality. However that said, because of the big business there is in car audio products and subwoofers in general you can often find a bargain. My advice would be to search on the Internet and the online auction sites and see what you can pick up.

The automobile has been our friend ever since the Frenchman, Nicolas Joseph Cugnot, built the first car in the year 1769. It was a steam powered, three wheeled vehicle with a top speed of six kilometers per hour that was built in the French Arsenal for the purpose of moving cannons. Cars have come a long way since then and a lot has changed about them but one thing remains the same; They save us a lot of tread on our shoes. Unfortunately, they do use some tread on their tires, and to safely drive your car, you need to add fresh tires on occasion.

When the time for new tires arrives, it is time to get the bet price by shopping for a car tires quote at various dealers.

What Should Your Quote Include?

The first thing to look for in any car tires quote is the number of tires included in the quote. Does the quote include a whole set of tires and, if so, does it include the fifth tire for a fresh spare or is the quote merely on a per tire basis. Paying attention to what may seem a trivial detail in your car tires quote here can save you a lot of money and trouble down the road.

The next thing to consider is the tread type to be used on the vehicle you are getting a car tires quote for. Do you travel mainly on paved streets or muddy back roads? Do you live in an area that rarely sees rain or do you look out your second story window and stare a Sherpa in the eye? The conditions you travel in effect your choice of tires and treads and will thus change your car tires quote accordingly. A set of street radials may have a very sweet looking price tag but paying the towing service to pull you out of a snow drift every few days would probably show you that the mud and snow tires might have been a better value.

Another very important thing to look for in a car tires quote is the cost of labor and warranties. Does the price include removing your old tires, mounting and balancing the new tires and installing them on your vehicle? Is there a fee to leave your old tires with the shop for disposal or a surcharge to take them with you for your own disposal? Is there a road hazard policy covering such things as punctures and flat repair or warranties against blow outs or defects?

In conclusion, shopping for car tires quotes does require a bit of research and asking questions of your prospective dealer but you will find that the investment of time you make while researching car tires quotes will pay off with a great deal on your new tires and the added safety it will provide for you and your loved ones.