Volvos are known for being extremely safe cars. They are so safe, in fact, that Volvo has started a “Volvo Saved My Life” Club. This club recounts the many moments in which Volvo drivers have been saved by the safety features of these amazing vehicles.

The Volvo v70 and Volvo s70 comes with standard with numerous safety features that you don’t want to miss out on. These safety features may be what put you in Volvo’s special club.

The Volvo line of cars begins with the Safety-Cage Passenger Compartment. This feature is complete with front and rear crumple zones that are able to dissipate and distribute the collision force. This reduces the physical strain on the car’s passengers. There are also roof pillars and transverse roof profiles that would prevent the car caving in should it roll. The side collision impact system also distributes the force of a collision to the side of a car.

The second feature is the Side-Impact Protection System. This reduces injuries in the event of a side impact. The car’s body is designed to reduce the deformation that occurs to a car when hit form the side.

In many front-end collisions, individuals are often harmed by the steering shaft. In a Volvo s70 you will find a collapsible steering column that is designed to prevent the penetration of the steering column into the vehicle’s cabin.

In rear end collisions, whiplash is a common injury. These injuries are created by the catapult effect that occurs when a vehicle is rear-ended. In the event of an accident to the rear of the vehicle, the Whiplash Protection Seating System is activated. There are two phases involved with this feature. The first is a wire frame and the limited-travel spring system. These features prevent your body from being pressed deeply into the seat. The second is a system that allows the seat to actually move backwards and prevent the person from being thrown forwards. This system is designed to work at speeds of up to 20 mph, as this is when whiplash injuries occur the most.

The airbag system on a Volvo is like not other car. There are three-step airbags with a driver’s and passenger side kneepads. A driver and a passenger will often need protection for their knees. Many knee injuries occur in accidents that are front-end collisions. The driver and the front passenger are often thrown forwards in these types of accidents and the knees may be jammed into the lower console.

These are just a few safety features that are found in the Volvo s70 and Volvo v70, but there are many more additional features that may be found in each car as well.

Whether to buy a new car or buy a used car is often times the first decision that needs to be arrived at before you can actively begin perusing purchasing your next vehicle.

Let’s take a look at some tips, pros, and cons when it comes to making this decision.

First of all, having been in the automotive business for many years, I almost always lean toward finding a good used car that fits what I am looking for. For me, I believe that used cars offer the best value for your dollar. In most cases, you’ll find used car departments are much more used to and willing to negotiate the price that they have posted on the car. From a negotiating standpoint, most used cars won’t have all of those superfluous dealer ‘add-ons’ stuck on the window either that will just never do.

In the automotive market, used cars will most certainly come with a lower initial price tag than a comparably equipped new car. And not only will the price be lower, you may also find that so is your cost to insure the used car as well as the tags, and taxes. Depreciation being what it is; means that with a car a couple of years old, the biggest depreciation hit has already occurred. And from a tangible perspective, you may have a better chance of getting those upgrades you’d like to have on the used car that you couldn’t otherwise afford going with the new.

Yet, with all of this, buying a used car isn’t for everyone. Finding a used vehicle that fits one’s entire car buying criteria can be a tough exercise in balancing what you want with the value versus risk inherent when it comes to used cars.

Not so many years ago, reliability was a major concern when purchasing a used car… and rightfully so. Today however, reliability problems are a fraction of what they used to be. Today’s vehicles, when properly maintained will easily go for 100,000 miles and it’s not uncommon for vehicles to be motoring along as they approach 200,000 miles or more. And with all of the information now available online, the risk factor is again reduced even a bit more.

Even though more reliable today, buying a used car for people means buying a car that is probably out of its original bumper to bumper warranty. This alone, is enough to repel many potential car buyers back to the new car side of the dealership.

As you know, if you are looking at buying a used car, you are probably looking at a car that is outside the factory warranty or at least would have very little remaining. With no warranty you’ll be on the hook to pay for any needed repairs out of your own pocket. However, the biggest expense for most all cars today are the things that aren’t covered by any manufacturer’s warranty anyway; items such as brakes, tires, alignment, batteries, etc.

Of course nobody can guarantee that you won’t encounter a lemon. No matter what the make and model, no manufacturer can produce a vehicle that can withstand years of neglect and/or abuse. Always, always, always give the used car a thorough inspection both by yourself and a qualified mechanic; doing this will catch most problems that may be looming on the horizon.

When it comes to financing the purchase of a used car, you find that the going interest rates will typically be higher than new car rates. This is definitely a piece of the puzzle you’ll want to check out. There is no rule of thumb as to what the difference in the interest rate will be between the two because there are just too many determining variables involved such as; the economy, rebates and incentives involved on the new car side, your credit, length of financing, and even the type of used car you’re looking at. Be sure to crunch the numbers for both sides.

With used cars, insurance can save you some money as well because you’ll typically pay less for your insurance on a like model from a few years past. The reason is simple; less cost of replacement for the insurance company and used cars are generally not high on the stolen lists.

And finally, (the latest) safety features could be a concern if you’re looking at used car (particularly if you’re going back a few model years).

All in all, if the touch, feel, and smell of a new car, isn’t a top priority for you, I think you’ll find that a well thought out used car purchase you can get more car and features and still be within your budget.

Before you even set one foot onto a car dealership check and know what shape your credit is in. Even if you know it is in good shape… here’s a flash for you – credit reporting companies make mistakes… and many of them. So, be smart… begin your car buying process the correct way… know your credit score.

You should begin the process of self evaluating your credit well in advance of doing your car shopping.

Why? Because if you find incorrect information or reporting on your credit report it will take some time in order to get it corrected or removed… and if you don’t you may pay for the mis-information quite handily in the form of paying a higher interest rate than you would otherwise have to.

For instance if you were to finance $20,000 for 5 years at 0% interest rate (obviously you’d pay no interest) your monthly payment would be $333.33. If however, because of credit issues (either correctly reported or not) you signed up at 7.9% your payments would be $71.00 dollars per month more for a painful $4,274.28 more in interest payments alone.

And just to pile on a bit more… this means that your loan payoff will always be higher so if you get the urge to trade cars two, three, or four years into your loan… you’re going to be much further upside down!

There are three credit reporting agencies – Equifax – Experian – Trans Union – and it’s best to get a report from all three. Also, if you are married you’ll want to get your spouse’s as well.

First check to determine what your FICO score is. FICO scores can range from about 300-900 with the higher the number being the stronger credit score. Lenders have differing criteria in how they evaluate and grade FICO scores so the break lines between poor – average – good – excellent can vary somewhat but generally the best auto financing rates are granted to those with a score of 700 or better.

Basically your credit score is based on five determinants: payment history – unpaid debt – how long you’ve had established credit – how much credit you’ve acquired or applied for lately – the types of credit you’re carrying.

The Federal Trade Commission (FTC) has a good website for understanding what your rights are under The Fair Credit Reporting Act.

Work to update outdated information that may be a part of your credit report and by all means begin the process of correcting any mis-information or incorrect payment history. Once you have corrected the mistake, be sure to check your credit report again in about 60 days to see how much of your credit report has changed and if your score has improved.

Working to get your credit report in order may take some time and diligence, but it’s like paying yourself. Remember, the difference of a not so many point swing in your credit score can get you that 7.9 interest rate instead of that 0% interest rate.

It’s your money… don’t waste what you can control.

Ideally, you should change your motor oil every three months or after every 3,000 miles. If you often drive around in hot or dusty conditions, you might even want to change oil more often than that.

The process is pretty simple, and as easy as one-two-three. Step one is getting ready, step two is draining the oil and changing the oil filter while step three is installing the new oil.

(1) Getting Ready

When getting ready, it is important to have the right tools and materials on hand, such as jack stands, a socket set and an oil drain pan. Let your car engine run for 10 minutes before you drain the oil since warm oil is easier to drain than cold. Make sure you park on a level surface or, if your car has a low clearance, jack it up or drive it onto a ramp. If youre jacking up the car, use two jack stands instead of one. (An additional jack costs about $20 and that is a small price to pay to spare your face from being squished by a badly balanced car.) You might want to check your cars manual about the weight of oil and type of oil filter you need to use.

(2) Draining the Oil and Changing the Oil Filter

To drain the oil, crawl under the car and look for the oil drain plug under the engine near the front of the car. Position your pan beneath the plug then use a socket wrench to loosen the plug, turning counterclockwise. Once loosened, you can use your hand to remove the plug and the hot oil starts pouring out. Make sure all the old oil is drained into the pan. Once its completely drained, wipe the drain plug and the plug opening. Now replace the drain plug gasket and use a wrench to reinstall the plug but dont make it too tight.

Next, look for the oil filter. They are usually at the side of the engine. Place the oil pan beneath the filter in case any oil remains. Unscrew the oil filter (use gloves if it is too hot) and wipe the filter area clean, especially where it mounts to the engine. Dab a bit of your new oil on the rubber seal of the new filter and then screw it in by hand. You dont have to use a wrench to tighten the oil filter.

(3) Installing New Oil

Remove the oil filler cap thats located at the top of the engine. Position the funnel at the opening and slowly start pouring in the new oil You might want to check your manual for the proper oil capacity but, typically, you will need four or five quarts of oil. Once youre done, put back the oil filler cap. Start the engine, let it run for a minute and then check the dipstick. If you need to, add more oil. Now check for any leaks near the oil drain plug and the filter. If you do find leaks, simply tighten the plug or oil filter.

Youre done. But dont forget to clean up. Carefully wipe away any excess oil and put the old oil into a plastic container then dispose of it. Dont just pour it anywhere, though. Better to take it to the recycle center or other authorized locations.

Gas powered Scooters are making a comeback as the preferred mode of transportation.

No longer are they just for kids. Gas powered scooters are rapidly taking over as the preferred method of transportation to work and school. They are economical, can maneuver through tight spaces and with a gas scooter, you can take short-cuts that an automobile can not.

Gas powered scooters are also known as mopeds which is a two-wheeled (normally) low powered vehicle. In most states its small size and low power output allow it to escape many of the licensing, insurance, and driver restrictions placed on motorcycles. However, be careful of the true description of moped.

a. A moped is traditionally defined as a motorized 2 wheel vehicle that is part human and part motor driven. A moped has pedals so that it can be propelled by human power. As you can see, gas powered scooters do not fit most states definition of moped.

Don’t fret though, a gas scooter used properly will not get you into any trouble in most places. If used responsibly and traffic laws are obeyed, most law enforcement won’t touch you.

Gas scooters were first introduced in the mid 1950’s. The first design was little more than a bicycle with an engine mounted on it, it was called a cyclemotor. The cylcemotor can still be seen on the road these days in the form of electric bikes.

One reason some people have a gas scooter is to circumvent loosing a driver’s license. Many states don’t require a driver to have an operator’s license if they are over eighteen years of age, sixteen in some states. They also don’t require insurance and registration.

Gas powered scooters have several advantage that should be noted.

a. No parking spots required. Some gas powered scooters can fold down for easy storage right in your office, or you can tie it up at the door with the bicycles right in front of the buildings door or on the sidewalk.

b. A gas powered scooter is faster than the average electric scooter. They can travel at speeds up to thirty-five miles an hour.

c. Gas powered scooters can maneuver rather well – A gas powered scooter is a great way to move through traffic. They dart in and out between cars, especially gridlocked traffic. Imagine sleeping in an extra twenty-thirty minutes. With the time you save avoiding traffic, you can afford to. how smart are you?

d. Gas scooters have very cool body styles; some gas powered scooters look more like miniature motorcycles than scooters.

e. Gas scooters save tons of money - While the cost of gassing up gas powered scooters might seem expensive compared to the low cost of running an electric scooter, the mileage they get quickly makes up for the gallon of gas they require.

f. Maintenance is a breeze– A Gas scooter is easy to maintain. With a basic grasp of tools and a decent book about mechanics most people are able to maintain their gas powered scooters in their own garage.

The best thing about a gas scooter is the freedom to literally go just about anywhere. While you ride your scooter along the trail or the beach, you can go more places than most automobiles. Hop on your new gas scooter and get ready for a new adventure. Take a minute and smell the roses or take in the sights like never before. What more could you ask for?

If you don’t have enough cash on hand to purchase the car straight out, you will need to consider your financing options. If you are a smart shopper you should figure out how you are going to finance the used car before you begin shopping. There are three main components that will come into play when you purchase a car. The first is the monthly payment, the second is the down payment and the third is the price of the car.

The monthly payment is going to be how much you can afford to pay each month. This will help the lender determine the life of the loan and when the payments will be due. Many lenders will require that you use the car to secure the loan. The car can be used as collateral and in the event that you default on the loan the lender will repossess the car to satisfy your debt. Monthly payments can also be lowered if you are able to make a down payment.

The down payment is how much cash you can afford to put down before financing the car. This will help to reduce your monthly payments as well. The better a down payment you are able to supply to the bank, the less amount of money you will have to finance through the lender.

The purchase price will be determined to the answer to the two previous questions. These numbers are important to have handy when you are negotiating over the price of a car. If you have these two figures in hand while discussing the price of the car, you will be able to remind yourself of what you can really afford to spend.

You have two options in financing a car. One is to finance the vehicle though your personal bank or credit union. This route is highly recommended, as you will be able to work with lenders that you are already familiar with. You will also be able to be eased in your mind, as your money is going to be sent to a reliable institution. Lower interest rates can also be found at reliable lenders. Using a bank or credit union also makes it easier to stick to your budgeted amount and allows you to find competitive interest rates.

Your other option is to finance through the dealer. This is an option for those individuals who find their credit rating less than good. Many dealers work with people with poor credit and will prearrange financing through an independent source.

When you are car shopping you will want to be sure that you leave yourself enough time to arrange the loan before purchasing the car. You want to be prepared to hand over the money in the event that you do find the used car of your dreams that you have been shopping for. You also do not want to be dependent on borrowing money from a dealer, as they often do not have the best financing and interest rates available, especially on their used cars.

For more Car buying tips visit Atlanta Used Cars at http://www.UsedCarsAtlanta.us and Dallas Used Cars at http://www.UsedCarsDallas.us.

When you have found a car that you are interested in you will want to inspect and test-drive the car that you are considering purchasing. This is the best way to weed out the bad cars from the ones that have potential.

When you evaluate a used car, you will want to keep two main considerations in mind. The first is whether or not you even like the car. Do you like the color? Do you like the interior? Does it have enough headroom and legroom? Secondly, you will want to know if the car is mechanically sound. These two factors will help you decide whether or not you actually like the car. If you do like the car then you will have a few more questions to ask yourself. Will the car work well in the long run? Will it be in good condition in six months or will you begin to have to repair and put money into it? It is important to realize that in many situations you will need to put a certain amount of money into a used car. You cannot typically find a used car that doesn’t need some kind of repair or sprucing up.

While you are test-driving the car, take it to your mechanic. If you are seriously thinking about purchasing the car, you may have doubts as to whether it is mechanically sound. Take the car to your mechanic and have him check it out for you. Many mechanics are more than happy to test drive the car quickly, check for leaks, and do a compression check. Then they will give you their expert opinion and you can make your decision from there. They may tell you that you would need to have something replaced and it would cost you so much. It would then be up to you to make the decision as to whether or not you would be willing to spend the additional money on the car.

Before you drive the car you will want to inspect the car. Walk around it and get a good overall visual inspection. Ensure that there are no ripples in the door panels, as that may suggest that the car has been in an accident. Look for uneven gaps between the doors and along the hood. Check for leaks such as coolant, oil, transmission fluid or gasoline. Examine the area where the car is normally parked to look for spots from leaks. You will then want to open all doors and the trunk. Test the lights, controls, heater, air and radio. Open the hood and look for leaks or sprays. While the engine is running you will want to listen for knock, ticking, hissing or whining. Check to see that all the tires have enough tread left on them.

Once you are driving the car, you first impression should be the way that the car feels. Does it fell comfortable to you? Are the gauges and controls easily accessible? Do you have enough leg space and headroom? If it is possible to drive the car when it is completely cold you will want to do so. Some older used cars may have difficulty starting when they are cold and this will reveal any chronic problems the car may have. Adjust the seat and mirrors before taking off and drive with the radio off. You will want to hear the engine and listen for other noises.

Be certain to include these factors in your test drive:

-Accelerate from a dead stop -Check for blind spots -Listen to the engine noise -Listen for how the car downshifts -Braking -Cornering -Suspensions -Listen for rattles or squeaks -Be sure to get on the highway and get the car up to highway speeds

Following these key points will help you make an accurate assessment of the vehicle before making your decision.

For more Car buying tips visit Atlanta Used Cars at http://www.UsedCarsAtlanta.us and Dallas Used Cars at http://www.UsedCarsDallas.us.

Since 1984 Formula One teams have been required to build the chassis in which they compete, and consequently the terms “team” and “constructor” are more or less interchangeable.

This requirement distinguishes the sport from series such as IRL, Champ Cars, and NASCAR, which allow teams to purchase chassis, and “spec series” such as GP2, which require all cars be kept to an identical specification.

In its early years, Formula One teams sometimes also built their engines, though this became less common with the increased involvement of major car manufacturers such as BMW, Mercedes-Benz, Renault, Toyota, and Honda, whose large budgets rendered privately built engines less competitive (and redundant).

Early manufacturer involvement came in the form of a “factory team” (that is, one owned and staffed by a major car company), such as those of Alfa Romeo, Ferrari (FIAT) or Renault. Companies such as Climax, Repco, Cosworth, Hart, Judd and Supertec, which had no direct team affiliation, often sold engines to teams who could not afford to manufacture them. As the manufacturers’ deep pockets and engineering ability took over, almost all engines are now produced by major manufacturers.

After having virtually disappeared by the early 1980s, factory teams made a comeback in the 1990s and 2000s, and now form half the grid with Toyota, Ferrari (FIAT), Honda, Renault and BMW either setting up their own teams or buying out existing ones. Mercedes-Benz (DaimlerChrysler) owns 40% of the McLaren team and manufactures the team’s engines. Commercial engine supplier Cosworth exited the sport at the end of 2006. Thus all the teams will run on factory supplied engines from 2007.

The sport’s 1950 debut season saw eighteen teams compete, but due to high costs many dropped out quickly. In fact, such was the scarcity of competitive cars for much of the first decade of Formula One that Formula Two cars were admitted to fill the grids. Ferrari is the only still-active team which competed in 1950, and as of 2006 eleven teams remain on the grid, each fielding two cars. Although teams rarely disclose information about their budgets, it is estimated that they range from US$66 million to US$400 million each.

Entering a new team in the Formula One World Championship requires a £25 million (about US$47 million) up-front payment to the FIA, which is then repaid to the team over the course of the season. As a consequence, constructors desiring to enter Formula One often prefer to buy an existing team: B.A.R.’s purchase of Tyrrell and Midland’s purchase of Jordan allowed both of these teams to sidestep the large deposit.

Each car is assigned a number. The previous season’s World Drivers’ Champion is designated number 1, with his teammate given number 2. Numbers are then assigned according to each team’s position in the previous season’s World Constructors’ Championship. There have been exceptions to this rule, such as in 1993 and 1994, when the current World Drivers’ Champion (Nigel Mansell and Alain Prost, respectively) was no longer competing in Formula One. In this case the drivers for the team of the previous year’s champion are given numbers 0 (Damon Hill, on both occasions) and 2 (Prost himself and Ayrton Senna - replaced after his death by David Coulthard and occasionally Nigel Mansell - respectively). The number 13 has not been used since 1974, before which it was occasionally assigned at the discretion of individual race organizers.

Before 1996, only the world championship winning driver and his team generally swapped numbers with the previous champion – the remainder held their numbers from prior years, as they had been originally set at the start of the 1974 season. For many years, for example, Ferrari held numbers 27 & 28, regardless of their finishing position in the world championship. As privateer teams quickly folded in the early 1990s, numbers were frequently shuffled around, until the current system was adopted in 1996.

Michael Schumacher holds the record for having won the most Drivers’ Championships (seven) and Ferrari holds the record for having won the most Constructors’ Championships (fourteen). Jochen Rindt became the only posthumous World Champion after a fatal accident at the 1970 Italian Grand Prix.

A Formula One Grand Prix event spans an entire weekend, beginning with two free practices on Friday, and one free practice on Saturday. Third drivers are allowed to run on Fridays, but only two cars may be used per team. After these practice sessions, a qualifying session is held.

The format of this qualifying session has been through several iterations since 2003. Attempts were made to reinvigorate interest in the qualifying session by using a "one-shot" system in which each driver would take turns on an empty track to set their one and only time.

For the 2006 season a knockout qualifying system was introduced. The FIA revised the 2006 procedures starting with Round 11, the 2006 French Grand Prix.[7] In the first phase, all 22 cars are permitted on the track for a 15-minute qualification session. Only their fastest time will count and drivers may complete as many laps as they wish. In the original format, the clocks were stopped immediately at the end of the session, which meant that drivers on a timed lap did not have their time registered once the 15 minutes were up. From Round 11, any car running a timed lap at the time of the chequered flag is entitled to complete the lap. The slowest six cars can take no further part in qualifying, these cars will make up the last six grid positions in the order of their times.

The times for the sixteen remaining cars are reset for the next 15-minute session. In the original format, the clocks were stopped immediately at the end of the session. From Round 11, cars running timed laps at the chequered flag are allowed to complete the lap. The slowest six cars will make up the grid in positions 11 to 16 in the order of their times.

The times for the ten remaining cars will be reset for the next session. The shootout session lasted 20 minutes under the original regulations, changed to 15 minutes from Round 11. For the final period, the cars will be arranged on the grid in positions one to ten in the order of their times. In the first two 15-minute sessions, cars may run any fuel load and drivers knocked out after those sessions may refuel ahead of the race. However, the top-ten drivers must begin the final 15-minute session with the fuel load on which they plan to start the race. They will be weighed before they leave the pits. Whatever fuel they use in the 15 minutes may be replaced at the end of the session provided that the laps they complete are all within 110% of their best session time; outlaps (a lap that started in the pitlane) and inlaps (a lap that ended in the pitlane) are permitted to be no more than 120% of the driver’s best session time. Any fuel for a lap outside of the 110% time will not be replaced. As with the first two 15 minute sessions, if a driver starts a timed lap before the chequered flag falls for the 15 minute session, their time will count even if they cross the finish line after the session has ended.

The race begins with a warm-up formation lap, after which the cars assemble on the starting grid in the order they qualified. If a driver stalls before the parade lap, and the rest of the field passes him, then he must start from the back of the grid. As long as he moves off and at least one car is behind him, he can retake his original position. A racer may also elect to start from pit-lane if he has any last minute problems with the car. If they choose to do this, they must wait for all cars to pass pit-lane before they may begin the race.

A light system above the track then signals the start of the race. Races are a little over 305 kilometres (190 miles) long and are limited to two hours, though in practice they usually last about ninety minutes. Throughout the race, drivers may make one or more pit stops in order to refuel and change tyres. Drivers have access to seven sets of dry-weather tyres, four sets of wet-weather tyres and three sets of extreme-weather tyres for the entire weekend. Drivers must choose the dry-weather compound they will use for the race ahead of qualifying.

The FIA awards points to the top eight drivers and their respective teams of a grand prix on a 10-8-6-5-4-3-2-1 basis (the race winner receives ten points, the first runner-up eight, and so on). The winner of the two annual championships are the driver and the team who have accumulated the most points at the end of the season. If any drivers and/or teams have the exact amount of points and are both competing for the driver and/or team championships, the driver and/or team who has won more Grand Prix races during the course of the season is declared the winner.

For decades we have seen the national auto shows, where the major manufacturers roll out their new models and a few flashy "prototypes" that will never see an assembly line. Then there are the rod and custom shows, populated thirty years ago by twenty- and thirty-somethings and filled these days with middle aged and older auto enthusiasts who still love classic American cars, both stock and in all the different permutations of customization they have gone through over the years.

And of course there’s the Concourse D’Elegance crowd, oohing and aahing at priceless Ferraris from the fifties and sixties as well as the older exotics such as Packards and, going even further back, Hispano-Suizas and Auburns.

For those who lived American Graffiti and those who live for the foreign classics, if you’re involved at all in building, maintaining or participating in the fellowship that has built around classics and exotics, you should consider utilizing a website.

First of all, it’s a great way to show off your car or cars, whatever you’ve got in the garage that is carefully driven once a week and towed, gleaming, to car shows. Secondly, it’s a communications device for like-minded collectors or builders that may be interested in your specialty - whether old Corvettes or sixties Alfa Romeos. There are current web sites for national and regional organizations as well as a number of sites that specialize as classified advertising for scarce auto parts.

A personal site, however, is going to give you a far different type of interaction with your fellow wrench addicts. Instead of searching impersonal national websites for parts or people with similar interests, you can use your site to bring them to you. Proper use of keywords and perhaps a classified ad or two online will bring potential contacts to you personally, and there they will find a site with photos of your car(s), your shop and a little history about your involvement.

You don’t have to find contacts like that at shows or in pulp publications for parts and project cars. A properly designed site for a car enthusiast that elaborates on his area of interest and the history of his cars will give that person a potentially national social role in the company of his peers, just as the kids are using MySpace to communicate.

You can advertise for parts, show vehicles for sale - with unlimited photos and videos, if you wish - and put the word out for a car you might be seeking for your next project. This approach will also limit your needs for entering ads in national locations. All you need to do is mention "55 Chevy for sale at www.old55.com" or whatever your site address is, and the interested parties will come to you. No more details listed in long paragraphs done in tiny print - and no more photos of your car on a page or in a lineup of dozens of other vehicles.