Whether to buy a new car or buy a used car is often times the first decision that needs to be arrived at before you can actively begin perusing purchasing your next vehicle.

Let’s take a look at some tips, pros, and cons when it comes to making this decision.

First of all, having been in the automotive business for many years, I almost always lean toward finding a good used car that fits what I am looking for. For me, I believe that used cars offer the best value for your dollar. In most cases, you’ll find used car departments are much more used to and willing to negotiate the price that they have posted on the car. From a negotiating standpoint, most used cars won’t have all of those superfluous dealer ‘add-ons’ stuck on the window either that will just never do.

In the automotive market, used cars will most certainly come with a lower initial price tag than a comparably equipped new car. And not only will the price be lower, you may also find that so is your cost to insure the used car as well as the tags, and taxes. Depreciation being what it is; means that with a car a couple of years old, the biggest depreciation hit has already occurred. And from a tangible perspective, you may have a better chance of getting those upgrades you’d like to have on the used car that you couldn’t otherwise afford going with the new.

Yet, with all of this, buying a used car isn’t for everyone. Finding a used vehicle that fits one’s entire car buying criteria can be a tough exercise in balancing what you want with the value versus risk inherent when it comes to used cars.

Not so many years ago, reliability was a major concern when purchasing a used car… and rightfully so. Today however, reliability problems are a fraction of what they used to be. Today’s vehicles, when properly maintained will easily go for 100,000 miles and it’s not uncommon for vehicles to be motoring along as they approach 200,000 miles or more. And with all of the information now available online, the risk factor is again reduced even a bit more.

Even though more reliable today, buying a used car for people means buying a car that is probably out of its original bumper to bumper warranty. This alone, is enough to repel many potential car buyers back to the new car side of the dealership.

As you know, if you are looking at buying a used car, you are probably looking at a car that is outside the factory warranty or at least would have very little remaining. With no warranty you’ll be on the hook to pay for any needed repairs out of your own pocket. However, the biggest expense for most all cars today are the things that aren’t covered by any manufacturer’s warranty anyway; items such as brakes, tires, alignment, batteries, etc.

Of course nobody can guarantee that you won’t encounter a lemon. No matter what the make and model, no manufacturer can produce a vehicle that can withstand years of neglect and/or abuse. Always, always, always give the used car a thorough inspection both by yourself and a qualified mechanic; doing this will catch most problems that may be looming on the horizon.

When it comes to financing the purchase of a used car, you find that the going interest rates will typically be higher than new car rates. This is definitely a piece of the puzzle you’ll want to check out. There is no rule of thumb as to what the difference in the interest rate will be between the two because there are just too many determining variables involved such as; the economy, rebates and incentives involved on the new car side, your credit, length of financing, and even the type of used car you’re looking at. Be sure to crunch the numbers for both sides.

With used cars, insurance can save you some money as well because you’ll typically pay less for your insurance on a like model from a few years past. The reason is simple; less cost of replacement for the insurance company and used cars are generally not high on the stolen lists.

And finally, (the latest) safety features could be a concern if you’re looking at used car (particularly if you’re going back a few model years).

All in all, if the touch, feel, and smell of a new car, isn’t a top priority for you, I think you’ll find that a well thought out used car purchase you can get more car and features and still be within your budget.

The traditional car buying experience is often seen as an overwhelming task. But thanks to the Web, customers can save time and enter a dealership precisely knowing what they want to buy.

How many times have you started the process by visiting different car dealerships? Purchasing a new or used car is a significant investment and you will hopefully be keeping your vehicle for awhile. You likely have certain features and options in mind, which will help narrow the scope of which models you will consider. But because you want to find the best car to meet your needs, the process can be intense and arduous.

Many car companies and dealerships are posting their inventory online so you can search for a car to best suit your needs. If you begin with the website as your first step, when you walk into the dealership, you have a narrowed list of vehicles that have the features you want, in your price range and you don’t have to waste a lot of time driving around from one dealership to another.

There are three different types of auto retail sites available for car buyers and each has its own unique advantages.

The Coast-to-Coast Dealer’s Website

When browsing online for your car, one of your primary concerns may be selection. CarMax is an online car dealership with a large inventory, located in several states across the country.

When you visit the site, you enter the make, model, price range and other details for the type of car you want. You are asked to enter your zip code, and then given a list of available vehicles at locations near your zip code. You can compare models, pricing, features, mileage, and other details.

If you aren’t sure what type of car you want, this is a good option to check out as many cars as possible in your price range.

The Local Dealership’s Website

The local dealership is probably the best option if customer service, in addition to selection, is important to you. The difference is similar to shopping at a large retailer versus the small specialty shop owned by a local family known for their contributions in the community. But whereas that small specialty shop may not have an inventory comparable to the big guys, the local dealership may not only offer a comparable selection of cars, but services that you won’t find at the larger auto retailers.

Conklin Cars is a new and used car dealer with several locations in Kansas. When working with a dealership that has several locations, you have the advantage of a large inventory, and working with specialists at each location. Customers who have visited the Salina car dealer site, for example, can also visit the company’s Newton car dealership and Hutchinson auto dealer sites online or in person to compare models, features and pricing.

But in addition to searching for cars based on brand, make, model, new, used, and even “building” the car you want, customers can also send questions to the dealerships’ parts and service technicians. Rather than running all over town to try and find the right part your car needs, or taking the car to a mechanic that may not be familiar with your car, you’ve got both covered at one location. This works well because it gives you a one-stop-shop option for not only purchasing your car, but care and maintenance after purchase.

Other notable advantages of using a local dealership include better, low-pressure sales and customer service, in addition to unique services. At Conklin Cars, sales reps are trained to create relationships with customers for any of their car buying or car service needs. For example, customers can rent a vehicle from Conklin Cars, a unique feature of this local dealership not found at many auto retailers.

Brand Name Shopping

If you have a particular brand in mind, visiting the company’s main site is probably your best option. A manufacturer’s website will offer a comprehensive look at all of the company’s offerings. Saturn, for example, is known for its low-pressure, no-haggle pricing. Like most automotive brands, the site is quite comprehensive with a photo gallery of different models, pricing, features and other valuable information to help you make an educated decision on which one of their vehicles will best suit your lifestyle.

Modern technology has created an opportunity for the car buyer to save much time, effort and stress when shopping. Depending on whether you want a vast inventory, a local resource capable of providing all of your car service needs, or you’re focused on one particular brand, beginning the car buying process online is a smart move. If you know your budget and enter the dealership with a clear decision on which cars you want to see, you’ve got the hardest part of the car-buying process covered, and all that will be left to do is make a decision and go through the paperwork.

The Hyundai Azera is a car model from Hyundai Motor Corp. which was produced in 1986. The fourth generation of Hyundai cars is called the Hyundai Azera and it was marketed first in North America.

The all new Azera started in 2006 as an advanced sedan which provides many traits and amenities which are usually characteristic for more expensive cars. The Azera offers the full-size luxury automobile consumer a more elegant cabin, more security characteristics, and a smoother drive.

Technical aspects

The Azera has a four-wheel independent suspension (multi-link in the rear) and uses the company’s new 3.8 L Lambda V6, which generates 263-hp (196 kW). The power is sent to the front wheels through a five-speed automatic transmission with "Shiftronic" manual gear selection. Hyundai claims 6.3 seconds to accelerate to 60 mph (97 km/h) and a top speed of 157 MPH (252 km/h). The Azera has a fuel economy of 19 MPG (12.4 L/100 km) in the City and 28 MPG (8.4 L/100 km) on the Highway is expected.

Styles and Major Options

The Azera offers plenty of perfomance using an awe-inspiring 263-hp DOHC V6 24-valve aluminum power plant with CVVT, variable induction and intake of cold-air.

The Azera is the most uncompromising car Hyundai’s ever created through a double-wishbone front suspension and multi-link rear suspension, with front and rear stabilizer bars to provide an optimized ride and handling.

The Hyundai Azera is recognized an an Ultra Low Vehicle Emission. The Azera helps the driver reach amazing levels of efficiency, with a trip computer that allows for MPG monitoring. You are provided alloy wheels, heated front seats, leather seat-upholstery, and a power sun shade in the rear window. In the ultimate package are included an improved audio system with 10 speakers and a 6-Disc CD changer, a power sunroof, telescopic steering wheel, and rain-sensing windshield wipers.

Safety

Eight Airbags which come standard on the AzeraHyundai make you sure that their Azera has many standard features and it can be compared to Toyota Avalon, with Electronic Stability Control, Traction Control, as well as Anti-Lock Brakes (ABS). The Azera also comes standard with 8 airbags and remote keyless entry, and an anti-theft engine immobilizer. The Azera/Grandeur TG" is a full-size sedan. It is sold as the Hyundai Azera in North America.

Being a step up from the Sonata, the Azera is evaluated at $24,995 for a base SE model, $27,495 for the Limited version, and $29,995 for the Ultimate Package. The flagship Azera will be the most luxurious sedan Hyundai is selling outside of Korea.

The Azera was named "Best New Family Car (over $35,000)" in the 2006 Canadian Car of the Year awards.

It also was awarded by Car and Driver because it has more rear legroom than a BMW 7 Series. It is also believed to have more overall interior room than the BMW 7 Series.

For more details go to http://www.ourismanhyundai.com

The Jackrabbit tonneau cover by Pace Edwards is a retractable tonneau or as some may call a roll top. To briefly describe what a retractable cover is I will try to give you a rough idea. The tonneau itself is made from aluminum panels, which in this case are laminated with a water resistant padded polymer. It has sort of a leather look. The frame is powder coated aluminum. The cover slides in tracks which extend from front to back along your truck bed rails. It rolls up into a canister which is located at the front of your truck box, below the cab rear window. This particular model has the option of stopping every 12 inches along its route so you don’t have to open or close the cover all the way. Water is directed from the cover to the side rails and through drain hoses to the canister and then through drain hose out through small holes in plugs in your truck box.

This cover has been purchase many times and most people loved what they received. Some say it was easy to install others say, actually most said the instructions sucked. Some give advice to read the instructions all the way through, then read them again, while others say make sure you have all the parts then throw the instructions away so you don’t get confused. All in all, customers for this cover did the installation themselves and were rewarded with many compliments for a great looking tonneau cover.

If you have a bed liner you will probably have to do some modifications to install this cover. Usually where the canister sits is a likely place for changes to your bed liner. From what I read I would get some help installing the cover so you don’t end up scratching your truck and just to make the installation a whole lot easier. I have read, a middle age woman installed it herself with little problem. I guess being mechanically incline will help.

A lot of people say their truck bed stays dry while other complained about water getting in between the tailgate and the cover. Just off the top of my head, maybe some extra stick-on weather stripping may help as it does on some other tonneau covers.

Even with lousy directions and water leakage this cover has been highly regarded for its operation and looks.

The Jackrabbit tonneau cover by Pace Edwards is a retractable tonneau or as some may call a roll top. To briefly describe what a retractable cover is I will try to give you a rough idea. The tonneau itself is made from aluminum panels, which in this case are laminated with a water resistant padded polymer. It has sort of a leather look. The frame is powder coated aluminum. The cover slides in tracks which extend from front to back along your truck bed rails. It rolls up into a canister which is located at the front of your truck box, below the cab rear window. This particular model has the option of stopping every 12 inches along its route so you don’t have to open or close the cover all the way. Water is directed from the cover to the side rails and through drain hoses to the canister and then through drain hose out through small holes in plugs in your truck box.

This cover has been purchase many times and most people loved what they received. Some say it was easy to install others say, actually most said the instructions sucked. Some give advice to read the instructions all the way through, then read them again, while others say make sure you have all the parts then throw the instructions away so you don’t get confused. All in all, customers for this cover did the installation themselves and were rewarded with many compliments for a great looking tonneau cover.

If you have a bed liner you will probably have to do some modifications to install this cover. Usually where the canister sits is a likely place for changes to your bed liner. From what I read I would get some help installing the cover so you don’t end up scratching your truck and just to make the installation a whole lot easier. I have read, a middle age woman installed it herself with little problem. I guess being mechanically incline will help.

A lot of people say their truck bed stays dry while other complained about water getting in between the tailgate and the cover. Just off the top of my head, maybe some extra stick-on weather stripping may help as it does on some other tonneau covers.

Even with lousy directions and water leakage this cover has been highly regarded for its operation and looks.

With the introduction of the first Grand Cherokee, Jeep defined and created the luxury sport utility vehicle (SUV) market, but in spite of this grand tradition the model is currently experiencing some difficulties. Jeep not only defined what an SUV was, it was the SUV market in the USA with the inception of the Cherokee and later on Grand Cherokee. This is no longer the case. The growing list of strong competition has intensified, and along with high fuel prices, this has lead to some serious challenges to Chrysler in spite of Jeep’s combination of legendary 4×4 capabilities, on and off-road refinements, and technological innovations.

The Jeep Grand Cherokee was one of the pioneering SUVs that ushered in the modern SUV market in the early 1990s. When it debuted, the Grand Cherokee represented a bigger and more refined version of Jeep’s smaller but popular Cherokee. The company’s designers wanted the Grand Cherokee it to be maneuverable enough for city driving, roomy enough for the whole family, stylish enough to take out on the town and rugged enough to reach those remote camping areas. The Grand Cherokee certainly met all of these requirements and, we feel that Jeep continues with this tradition in its current Grand Cherokee version.

The 2005/2006 version of the Grand Cherokee, which is the model’s 3rd generation, is one of the best SUVs made, and as one critic put it “arguably the most desirable”. With some of the outstanding available features of full-time four-wheel drive, independent front suspension, rack and pinion steering, a five-speed transmission, and an available 5.7-Liter HEMI V-8 with MDS, which deactivates up to 8 cylinders when not needed for better gas mileage performance, the Grand Cherokee is featured packed. Safety features include Electronic Stability Program, SmartBeam ™ headlamps that automatically and quickly adjust high-beam brightness and intensity, All-Speed Traction Control System, and advanced multi-stage air bags with an Occupant Classification System. The look and feel of the body was also updated to give it an edgy angular look, which looks new and contemporary while retaining that Grand Cherokee style with the famous 7-slot Jeep grille. Chrysler also gave the Grand Cherokee an updated suspension system that delivers better corning turning performance and a tighter turning radius.

In spite of these top-of-the-line features, Grand Cherokee sales in the USA for 2006 (ending December 31, 2006) were 139,148 units, which were down from 213,584 in 2005. This represents a decline of 35%. Jeep’s smaller SUV, the Liberty, also saw its numbers drop dramatically in 2006 with unit sales of 133,557 versus unit sales of 166,883 for 2005, a 20% decline. While it doesn’t necessarily make Chrysler feel any better, they were not alone in decreased sales in the SUV segment. Other USA car manufacturers also experienced declines. Ford experienced a 25% drop in its SUV sales for the USA, while GM’s truck sales were down 9.6% (2,499,269 for 2006 versus 2,765,809) (detailed performance reports for GM’s SUVs was not available). The decline in SUV sales, especially mid-range models, was affected by the dramatic price increases in gasoline during 2006. This along with luxury SUV models by BMW, Lexus, Mercedes, and Porshe, and mid-priced SUVs by Mitsubishi, Toyota and others experiencing a surge in popularity is creating a sizable challenge to Chrysler. With its outstanding features, Jeep tradition, and the Daimler-Chrysler technology behind it, we look for the Grand Cherokee to make a strong return in the future.

In the past, Jaguar, high class cars from England had small-sized and active features and high performance were favorable. Their appearance looked sedan and suited the passengers who loved to get anywhere in a group. They thought that there were many playboy millionaires, and if they were to produce a sport-car model, they could have marketed quite well. At least, Jaguar had built its good reputation from the racing cars for a very long time, especially Le Mans 24 hours.

A lot of people said that Jaguar’s sport series which began to be known well and were affordable could be XK series. XK 120 in the year 1948, followed up by XK 140 in 1955, and became XK 150 in 1957. They used quite modern engines that their competition had not known. Modernization, streamline that made a big positive impact on sport cars drivers, curved doors, and roadsters were the real style of sport cars.

Jaguar made its reputation in the Le Mans race course by a car that had been showed in 1954, D-TYPE, which was 3.4liters, 245 horsepower. The initial production was considered extremely fast. Moreover, it was empowered by making it 270 horsepower for racing, and that made it three-years-in-a-row champion in 1955-1957. There would not be anyone who would not wish the dignity of Le Mans’ championship sport cars which later was extended to 3.8liters, 306 horsepower. It competed in United States and made so big impact on sport cars guru that made a newer model to drive in a street.

The manufacturer decided to make them sport series, and not involved with normal cars except the engines and systems used together in order to reduce the cost of production. Therefore, E-TYPE Jaguar was influenced by XK series and D-TYPE. It was officially debuted in 1961, taking over XK 150, and completing the new full sport style, which was the long front and short end according to the classic style sport cars.

The appearance of E-TYPE is brilliant like Italian sport cars. At the beginning, it had been decided to name as XK-E, but eventually was E-TYPE, which seemed more okay and newer than old XK series that had been used for many models. It had been decided to be 3.8liters, twin cam, then later on extended to be 4.2liters in order to make it right for the size of the cars. The 3.8 liters one had been eventually stopped, until 1971 it was given a new 5.3liters, V12 engine in order to be an alternative choice for customers who were interested in pretty big block. The 4.2liters one’s production was terminated in 1974.

If you would like to own this model, you may need to consider if you are a millionaire or not because this kind of classic cars cannot be found at any car dealers. If you would really want it, you should check it out from a catalogue of car auctioning company. You might be that lucky that someone would sell it.

High performance and low cost were Plymouth’s design goals for a brand-new model in 1968. The company believed that the time was right for a factory hot rod for the youth market, and its guess was right on the money. It would have the macho name of Road Runner.

It was also a very “B Body” budget-friendly machine which made it another very important reason for purchasing. The high cost ruled out many of the muscle cars of the era.

Less money meant less chrome on the body, along with fewer options. In fact, those that intended their Road Runner for the drag strip sometimes ordered the Runner with the small hub-cap-style wheel covers and even deleted the radio.

A member of the Belvedere line, the new model came with a stock 383cid engine capable of 335 horsepower. But that was just the beginning, the awesome 426 Hemi and 440 Six-Barrel engines would become available the following model year.

Of course, the Hemi has been a legend for many years, but that triple-carbed 440 engine had adopted a cult following of its own. A significant body change had been planned for the ‘70 model, but that would be put off until the 1971 model year.

The 1970 440 continued to be capable of 390 horsepower when equipped with the so-called Air Grabber induction system. That interesting system provided a solid connection between the hood scoops and engine once the hood was closed. The sides of the pop-up Air Grabber door were eye-catching with evil-looking shark’s teeth etched on the sides.

The front end was menacing-looking with the blackout grille containing twin headlights mounted in its ends. The aggressive bumper contained a pair of round parking lights on either side of the license plate.

When looking at the ‘70 Road Runner, and comparing it with the other garnish MOPAR muscle machines of the era, it appeared downright stripped. Oh, there was a stripe and 440+6 lettering on the hood, but that was about it. About the only eye catcher was the simulated rear-fender-scoop cut-out.

Some of the models did, however, have a dust trail that reached from near the front of the front fender and disappeared into that scoop.

The only sizable name identification externally was the “Road Runner” lettering contained in a stripe located on the rear end of the car, just above the tail lights. As far as engine identification, in addition to the aforementioned 440+6 designations on the hood, there was also a “440” in the rear of a hood bulge.

With that famous name, the company made the most of it with a special horn to sound like that famous cartoon bird. The horn made the Road Runner ‘Beep Beep’ sound which was unmistakable.

Mike Cenky of Huber Heights, Ohio owns this ‘70 Road Runner hardtop with such an six-barrel 440 engine installation. A retired phone company employee, Mike acquired the four-speed model in 1988 in “fair condition.” I redid the powertrain and suspension system which both needed attention.”

As he was restoring the Road Runner, Mike came across some interesting clues that provided firm indications of the car’s early history. “The engine had a scatter shield, there was an indication of once having a drag-style line-lock set-up, and the rear wheelwells had been trimmed for large racing slicks.

“I bet that it made many runs down the drag strip during those days.” He indicated, though, that type of activity is not in his plans for the orange beauty. “Oh, I might get on it once-in-awhile, but that’s about it!”

Cenky did, however, make several minor changes for better driving comfort. “I used a wider eight-inch rear wheel. Then too, I changed the factory 4.10 ratio rear end to a 3.54 unit which makes the car much more streetable.” For a cleaner look, the small Road Runner decals-normally on the front quarters-and small chrome RR emblems on the rear quarters.

The car is coated in a flashy Tor Red color, a color which is carried to the exposed wheels which carry the small wheel covers, and in MOPAR style, also into the engine compartment. It’s highlighted with that broad black hood stripe which contains the hood scoop and is outlined by two narrow stripes. There is definitely a racecar look about this stunning machine.

The car also carries the Super Track Pack which included front disc brakes, heavy duty cooling package, special cooling fan, and the Dana rear end. The interior is done in black vinyl and sports bucket seats.

Cenky explained that even though the car is 36 years old, most people at car shows know exactly what it is. “I am always hearing from them that they owned one or knew somebody that did,” he explained. Mike’s long been a Chrysler fan, and it comes naturally. “My dad worked for the company for many years and all we ever had were Chrysler cars.” And over the years,

Mike has owned a number of vintage performance MOPARs, including a ‘67 440 R/T, a ‘70 Dodge Challenger 440 Six-Pack, a ‘72 340 Plymouth Duster, and a ‘70 Chrysler 300.

There is no mistaking the look of those Chrysler-built ‘60s and early muscle machines, and they are certainly a favorite of mine.”

And ours too!

Copyright © 2005-2006 Muscle car News Magazine Privacy Policy

High performance and low cost were Plymouth’s design goals for a brand-new model in 1968. The company believed that the time was right for a factory hot rod for the youth market, and its guess was right on the money. It would have the macho name of Road Runner.

It was also a very “B Body” budget-friendly machine which made it another very important reason for purchasing. The high cost ruled out many of the muscle cars of the era.

Less money meant less chrome on the body, along with fewer options. In fact, those that intended their Road Runner for the drag strip sometimes ordered the Runner with the small hub-cap-style wheel covers and even deleted the radio.

A member of the Belvedere line, the new model came with a stock 383cid engine capable of 335 horsepower. But that was just the beginning, the awesome 426 Hemi and 440 Six-Barrel engines would become available the following model year.

Of course, the Hemi has been a legend for many years, but that triple-carbed 440 engine had adopted a cult following of its own. A significant body change had been planned for the ‘70 model, but that would be put off until the 1971 model year.

The 1970 440 continued to be capable of 390 horsepower when equipped with the so-called Air Grabber induction system. That interesting system provided a solid connection between the hood scoops and engine once the hood was closed. The sides of the pop-up Air Grabber door were eye-catching with evil-looking shark’s teeth etched on the sides.

The front end was menacing-looking with the blackout grille containing twin headlights mounted in its ends. The aggressive bumper contained a pair of round parking lights on either side of the license plate.

When looking at the ‘70 Road Runner, and comparing it with the other garnish MOPAR muscle machines of the era, it appeared downright stripped. Oh, there was a stripe and 440+6 lettering on the hood, but that was about it. About the only eye catcher was the simulated rear-fender-scoop cut-out.

Some of the models did, however, have a dust trail that reached from near the front of the front fender and disappeared into that scoop.

The only sizable name identification externally was the “Road Runner” lettering contained in a stripe located on the rear end of the car, just above the tail lights. As far as engine identification, in addition to the aforementioned 440+6 designations on the hood, there was also a “440” in the rear of a hood bulge.

With that famous name, the company made the most of it with a special horn to sound like that famous cartoon bird. The horn made the Road Runner ‘Beep Beep’ sound which was unmistakable.

Mike Cenky of Huber Heights, Ohio owns this ‘70 Road Runner hardtop with such an six-barrel 440 engine installation. A retired phone company employee, Mike acquired the four-speed model in 1988 in “fair condition.” I redid the powertrain and suspension system which both needed attention.”

As he was restoring the Road Runner, Mike came across some interesting clues that provided firm indications of the car’s early history. “The engine had a scatter shield, there was an indication of once having a drag-style line-lock set-up, and the rear wheelwells had been trimmed for large racing slicks.

“I bet that it made many runs down the drag strip during those days.” He indicated, though, that type of activity is not in his plans for the orange beauty. “Oh, I might get on it once-in-awhile, but that’s about it!”

Cenky did, however, make several minor changes for better driving comfort. “I used a wider eight-inch rear wheel. Then too, I changed the factory 4.10 ratio rear end to a 3.54 unit which makes the car much more streetable.” For a cleaner look, the small Road Runner decals-normally on the front quarters-and small chrome RR emblems on the rear quarters.

The car is coated in a flashy Tor Red color, a color which is carried to the exposed wheels which carry the small wheel covers, and in MOPAR style, also into the engine compartment. It’s highlighted with that broad black hood stripe which contains the hood scoop and is outlined by two narrow stripes. There is definitely a racecar look about this stunning machine.

The car also carries the Super Track Pack which included front disc brakes, heavy duty cooling package, special cooling fan, and the Dana rear end. The interior is done in black vinyl and sports bucket seats.

Cenky explained that even though the car is 36 years old, most people at car shows know exactly what it is. “I am always hearing from them that they owned one or knew somebody that did,” he explained. Mike’s long been a Chrysler fan, and it comes naturally. “My dad worked for the company for many years and all we ever had were Chrysler cars.” And over the years,

Mike has owned a number of vintage performance MOPARs, including a ‘67 440 R/T, a ‘70 Dodge Challenger 440 Six-Pack, a ‘72 340 Plymouth Duster, and a ‘70 Chrysler 300.

There is no mistaking the look of those Chrysler-built ‘60s and early muscle machines, and they are certainly a favorite of mine.”

And ours too!

Copyright © 2005-2006 Muscle car News Magazine Privacy Policy

When it comes to RC cars, electricity saves you money, but gas makes it real. Gas powered RC cars go faster, sound more realistic and give you the thrill of the race in a way that their electrically controlled counterparts just can’t do. Of course, you have to understand that when you hear the term gas powered RC cars, you’re really not talking about gasoline.

Gas powered RC cars are actually powered by a fuel combination more often referred to as nitro. But even if you don’t actually put gasoline into the cars, gas powered RC cars still look for all the world like miniature automobiles as they zoom at high speeds around the track.

Gas powered RC cars have engines that require fine tuning and that roar with all the excitement of a full sized car. In fact, the faster they go, the louder they get, just like the real thing. The excitement of racing gas powered RC cars doesn’t end with the sounds however. As they face like lightning, vapor trails of exhaust shadow their route. That’s a sight that you just can’t get from electrically controlled RC cars.

Aside from the cool sounds and sights, there are some other differences. Typical gas powered RC cars get owe their higher sense of realism to an internal combustion engine. The “gas” is actually a nitro methane fuel mixed with lubricating oil to protect the engine. The replace for a real car’s spark plugs in gas powered RC cars is something called a glow plug.

This plug is heated by a battery-powered starter that continuously ignites the fuel, allowing gas powered RC cars to race far longer at a time than electric ones. Unless, that is, your glow plug goes out on you. Because this eventuality is not exactly unknown in the world of gas powered RC racing, it always pay to invest in a backup or two.

If you are still reading this, that means you are probably new to the world of gas powered RC cars and maybe haven’t even bought one yet. Rather than starting out with a top of the line model, you should probably go for entry-level car. Most of these models don’t need electric starters because they come with pull-starters like a go-kart engine. If you do get one that comes without this, you’ll have to invest in a starter. You have a choice here: either an electric starter box or a 12V starter with a car adaptor.

Gas powered RC cars bring the excitement of RC car racing to another level. The sounds, the sights and even the smells of a race between gas powered RC cars are so much more realistic than a race between electric cars. If you are looking to get in on one of the fastest growing hobbies in America and you truly want to experience it to the ultimate, then gas powered RC cars is really your only choice.

Today’s vehicles are equipped with an array of warning lights. Of course we’re all familiar will the seat belt warning and the door ajar indicator; however, with the automotive industry’s technological advancements there are a number of warning lights that can be quite alarming.

Following is a Question and Answer Guide on some of the more common Warning Light concerns. Note: due to the frequency of the Check Engine Warning Light, it has a section all its own. Visit www.repairtrust.com/check.html.

1) SRS Light (Supplemental Restraint System): the supplemental restraint system is your Airbag System. It may incorporate a variety of active, passive, and even pre-safe technology depending on the vehicle. Given that the SRS System is a safety system, it is well monitored with numerous sensors and automatic self-tests. The slightest malfunction in this system illuminates the SRS light.

“Can the vehicle be driven with an SRS Light on?” Yes, at the owner’s risk. There are thousands of vehicles on the road without SRS technology.

“Is the airbag going to blow up?” It’s unlikely. When the SRS Light is on the system is inoperative.

2) ABS Lights: The Anti-Lock Brake System Warning Light is another common occurrence in today’s vehicles. The ABS system helps to keep you from skidding out of control during braking by limiting your wheels from locking up/skidding.

The ABS system is often integrated with traction control and stability systems, all of which are designed to keep you safe during panic stops, wheel slippage, and handling.

“Do I need brakes?” You might, but that’s not why the ABS Light is on. The ABS Warning System does not monitor disc brake pad or disc brake rotor wear (see the Padlight Warning section below)

“Can the vehicle be driven?” Like the SRS system, the vehicle can be driven at the owner’s risk as there are many vehicles still on the market without the enhanced safety features of ABS.

“Why is my ABS light on? How do I reset the ABS Light?” These are simple questions with a multitude of answers depending on the vehicle in question. For a QUICK and FREE solution, follow the information and guidelines for Resetting Check Engine Light, and apply them to your ABS light.

3) Low Coolant Light: The Low Coolant Light will come on when the coolant drops below the coolant level sensor—generally one to two quarts. If this light is on, there are two primary possibilities. The most common is a coolant leak. The other is an electrical fault in the warning lamp circuit. Have them checked out.

“Can it be driven?” If there are no major leaks, the vehicle is not overheating (and does not start to overheat), and there is still some evidence of coolant in the overflow bottle, it can be driven. If you can see coolant leaking on the ground—tow it. When in doubt, always tow it!

4) Red Oil Light On: Stop driving immediately and shut the engine off! If a Red Oil Warning Light comes on PAY ATTENTION.

The best case scenario is that your engine oil is a little low. The second best case scenario is that there is an electrical issue with the Oil Level Warning System circuit.

First, follow your owners’ manual’s instructions to check your oil. If low, add as recommended—make sure you don’t see it dripping or pouring out on the ground, which would indicate a “major” engine leak.

If the oil is not low and your engine is making ticking, knocking, or unusual noises, Tow it!

If everything appears ok, and you’re a bit of a gambler, it may just be an issue with the warning lamp circuit. In this case, get your vehicle checked out at your earliest convenience.

The worst case scenario is internal engine damage.

Note: many of today’s vehicles have very sensitive and sophisticated Oil Level Warning Systems. You may be alerted of oil level too high, or oil level too low. Again, refer to your owners’ manual’s instructions.

So whether it’s a 1993 Ford Aerostar Check Oil Light, or a question of “Why does oil light flash in Saab automobile,” PAY ATTENTION!

5) Red Brake Warning Lights: Generally, Red Warning Lights mean DANGER. In the case of a Red Brake Warning Light, there may be a hydraulic brake fluid leak. If the brake pedal feels abnormal or spongy—don’t drive—Tow It!

“Can I drive it?” If the car is stopping ok, and you’re a gambler, go ahead. If the brake pedal feels different than usual, or if the vehicle is not stopping properly, don’t drive it!

Note: make sure that your emergency brake is not on or partially engaged, as this will illuminate a Red Brake Warning Light.

6) Yellow Brake Warning Light (Padlight): This is an early warning system for brake pad wear. Essentially, as your disc brake pads wear down, at a certain point a sensor is tripped to alert you that you will need brakes soon.

“Can I drive the vehicle, and for how long?” Yes, you can continue to drive. How long depends on your driving style. City drivers (city driving is generally harder on brakes due to the constant stop and go) will likely need their brakes addressed before someone who does primarily highway driving.

“Will I do more damage to the brakes?” Depending on how long you continue to drive you could conceivably wear your disc brake pads down to the metal backing plate, which could then damage your disc brake rotors and, in rare cases, the disc brake calipers. However, with many of today’s brake systems, the replacement of the disc brake rotors along with the disc brake pads is required or strongly recommended.

Important: It is better to have your brakes checked early to increase the possibility of saving money by not having to replace the rotors. However, many of today’s brake disc pads and rotors require replacement not due to wear, but due to rust and corrosion; thus rotor replacement is often necessary anyway. Brake calipers rarely need replacing during regular brake work.

7) Air Suspension Lights (Airmatic, Air Ride, Hydraulic Suspensions): Suspension Warning Lights illuminate when the suspension’s monitoring system has detected a fault. Often there is a leak—either air or hydraulic fluid.

“Can I drive it?” Sometimes. But if the suspension is lower than usual, and/or the vehicle just doesn’t feel right—Tow It! Extensive damage could result if the suspension drops too low while driving.

Note: air suspension system repairs are best left to the best, state-of-the-art service center you can find, preferably a dealership.

Tire Pressure Warning Light: This recent technological development causes quite a bit of confusion. Put simply, if your tire is getting low on air, your car lets you know via sensors mounted in various places depending on the model.

“What is the low tire pressure warning light reset procedure?” Sometimes the reset procedure is as simple as pressing a button. Other times one has to set the tire pressures, recalibrate the on-board computer, genuflect and cross two fingers. Check your owners’ manual or call a specialist or dealer.

Note: Local shops and franchises (for the most part) lack familiarity with Tire Pressure Monitoring Systems given that this is a fairly recent technological development. You can refer to How to Reset Check Engine Light, and follow the tips, and suggestions for getting it reset.

9) Emission Warning Light: This light is similar to the Check Engine Light. Many European models such as Volvos have this type of Warning System. It’s essentially letting you know that an emissions component has failed or detected a fault. Follow the Check Engine Light information and tips to address this particular warning light.

Note: make sure you take it to a shop equipped to handle emissions work.

10) Resetting Oil Lights (Oil Change Warning Lamps): Whether it’s a Toyota Oil Light Procedure, an Oil Change Warning Light Reset 2005 GMC Envoy, or the process to Reset 1999 M3 Oil Service Light, all require a specific course of action.

Most owners’ manuals have this information. You should find it under maintenance or oil service. You can also call your local mechanic, who resets oil service lights everyday on a variety of models. A dealership will certainly have the information; however, finding someone in a dealership who can translate it effectively may be difficult.

If the above fails, see the process for Resetting Check Engine Light.

Note: several European models require special tools to reset the oil service light, thus it’s best to call or visit a specialist or dealer.

Note: This information is not a substitute for your vehicle’s owners’ manual. It is meant to be a general guide. Always refer to manufacturer vehicle-specific guidelines.

Note: PAY ATTENTION to how you are billed for any of the above warning concerns. Because of their technical nature they can get “unnecessarily” very pricy, quickly.