Learning a little more about how to better care for your vehicles is a good idea for any number of reasons. It allows you to know if an unscrupulous mechanic is attempting to gouge you on your repairs – and that will save you money. It can prevent you from making unnecessary repairs – and that will save you money. It can help you locate a problem and fix it early, thus saving more money – sometimes a whole lot of money. It allows you to be more independent in an era where people are entirely too dependent on others to survive.

We need to get started now, so that we have time to cover everything…

First, do a visual check of your vehicle. The following will assist you in where to look, and for what:

•Look at your tires. Do they look low? A tire pressure gauge, available inexpensively at any discount store of auto parts store will help you make sure tire pressure stays dead on. Maintain as necessary. Better tire pressures will make your vehicle safer, and more fuel efficient. There are some very inexpensive air pumps for sale at discount stores – should you really want to stay on top of air pressure in your tires. Motorcyclists and moped riders need to be exceptionally concerned about their tire pressures.

•Look closely at your tires and inspect for severely worn edges, areas missing chunks of rubber, or objects sticking into the tire. Maintain or replace as necessary. If your tires are relatively new, and they seem to be wearing unevenly, take you vehicle into the shop for an alignment, and likely a tire rotation. These two things are frequently lumped together in less costly automotive service “specials.”

•Look under the vehicle for liquids. One drop usually means nothing. Look for consistent drip marks. Remember that during summer months your vehicle’s air conditioning will steadily drip water when in use – no worries. Your coolant system may also spew an occasional bit of water/anti-freeze, and that’s okay too. If you find a stain indicating long-term or consistent leaking, trace the leak to its source: engine oil, transmission fluid, rear end oil, etc. Maintain or repair as necessary. Sometimes, just getting under the vehicle with a pressure hose at the car wash will clean off years of old oil and debris that causes many ‘driveway’ leaks – thus fixing the faux leak.

•Visually check your engine oil. Check it according to the manufacturer’s instructions, and also feel it with your fingers. Engine oil is the life blood of your vehicle’s power plant. Does the oil feel thick, or does it feel watery. Thick is good, watery is bad! Change watery oil (and be sure to use an Engine Sentry when you do change oil and filter). Add the appropriate oil if the level registers low. NEVER overfill your oil!

•Check the coolant level. Be sure to use caution, and follow the manufacturer’s instructions to avoid injury from hot, pressurized liquids. Maintain as necessary. If you haven’t had your coolant/anti-freeze checked lately, it might be advisable. Be sure to never add coolant or anti-freeze that is not recommended by your vehicle’s manufacturer. Some radiators require special products so as not to erode or corrode them.

•Visually check your engine compartment. Tighten caps, firmly tug/test hose connections, look for worn things, things that have blown into the engine compartment, etc. Maintain or repair as necessary. This is also a good time to do light engine cleaning. Nothing too serious, just some rags and some degreaser: ammonia and water make a cheap, great degreaser, but it shouldn’t be used on aluminum – certainly not left on it. A toothbrush is also an excellent tool here – it makes quick work of much engine debris.

•Visually check your automotive battery and connections. Make sure the connections feel tight at the battery. If you have green or white build-up on the battery, mix some baking soda with tepid water (1/4-cup of baking soda to one quart of water) and stir it thoroughly. Now, slowly pour it directly over the affected areas. Don’t worry about all the fizzing and crackling – it’s just cleaning. Make sure you do this where the runoff won’t harm anything. An old toothbrush will make this go faster. When the terminals are clean and dry, apply a thin coating of automotive grease onto each battery terminal, and connection. Automotive grease comes in small, plastic tubs that weigh about a pound each. They’re cheap, so get a good brand name. I use popsicle sticks to spread it with. Grease is good to have around for many automotive fixes and preventive maintenance actions.

Okay, you’ve completed the first steps of becoming a full-fledged automotive diagnostician – or something like that, anyway. You’ve definitely gotten your vehicle in much better condition, and you should have learned a thing or two. Keep an eye out for part II – Hear No Evil, and Part III – Smell No Evil.

Engine Sentry is a registered trademark of Iron Horseman Technologies. Iron Horseman Technologies is the trademark of Iron Horseman Technologies in Tucson, Arizona.

Here we have a few things you should check on your motorcycle on a regular basis. I assume you have a handbook with the specs for your bike, if not, go get one. You may be able to find some data for your particular motorcycle on the net. You can also pick up workshop manuals for various models on eBay in PDF or CD form for little money.

Whereas with a four wheeled vehicle you may get away with being lax with things like tire pressures etc, this is not the case with a motorcycle. You should not risk compromising the safety and stability of your motorcycle, for the sake of a bit of routine maintenance.

Pre-ride check

•Tires – check condition and for foreign objects in the tread.

•Tire pressures – it is vitally important to keep your motorcycles tire pressures either on spec or very close to it.

•Oil level – always check with the bike on level ground.

•Coolant level – only if your bike’s liquid cooled, obviously.

•Chain – check the tension and make sure it’s well lubed.

•Brakes – check they work and that they feel good.

•Lights – check all your lights, especially the brake light, you don’t want to get rear ended, do you?

•Visual inspection – self explanatory.

•All ok – hit the road.

Periodical checks

•Check battery – see that the connections are tight; I dropped a bike once because of a loose battery connection, strange but true. Also check the electrolyte level on some batteries, a lot of newer batteries are gel filled, sealed for life types, so no need with these.

•Carb balance – if your bike is multi carbed get yourself a Morgan carbtune or similar. It can be a little tricky the first time you balance them, but when you’ve done it once, the second time will be easy.

•Ignition timing – only necessary on some bikes, most newer models have electronic ignition which does not need touching, normally.

•Valve clearances – unless you’re a good home mechanic, take it to a dealer.

•Wheel bearings – grab each wheel with it off the ground and see if there is any sideways play. There should be none or maybe a trace at most.

•Steering head bearings – with the front end off the ground, grab the forks and push and pull. There should be no play.

•Swinging arm bearings – with the back wheel off the ground, check for any sideways movement in the swingarm, there should be none.

•Brakes – check fluid levels, brake hoses for deterioration, and pads/shoes for thickness.

•Cables and levers – should operate smoothly. Get some grease on lever/pedal pivot points, and get some lube down the cables, if you can. A cable oiler is a handy tool.

•Nut and bolts – go all round the motorcycle with your spanners and check that all nuts/ bolts/screws are nice and tight.

Well, that’s about it for some basic maintenance, obviously, unless you’re a good home mechanic, any bigger jobs will have to go to a dealer. The problem can be finding a good one with skilled mechanics you can trust. I manage to keep my Yamaha Fazer 1000 running sweet just using the steps listed above. It does help that this model only needs the valve clearances checking every 26,000 miles.

[Introduction]

Nitrous Oxide injection is a popular performance modification that offers maximum returns on spending. The direct outcome of using Nitrous Oxide injection is additional power to your vehicle. This results into better garnering of energy from combustion of fuel, revved up engine and eventual boost in over all performance of the vehicle.

Nitrous oxide is more popular than other performance modifications as besides better performance per unit of money spent, Nitrous installations are easier to accomplish. These installations can be used as and when the need arises. The Nitrous oxide injections are available to meet any magnitude of power need from 25 HP to over 500 extra HP. This performance option caters to the computer controlled fuel injected engines. The Nitrous systems are portable enough to be easily removed or transferred to another vehicle. In comparison to other performance options, Nitrous Oxide systems are feasible, as they cost least and install without much difficulty. To install NOS, all you need are some common hand tools and barely three to four hours time. There is no other performance option that can buy you more performance for lesser money than Nitrous.

Nitrous oxide is colorless, non-flammable and a slightly sweet smelling gas. Also known as laughing gas because of its euphoric effects, Nitrous is also known as NOS after the famous trademark catering Nitrous Oxide injection systems.

[How Does It Work?]

Nitrous oxides functions along identical principle as followed by sodium chlorate upon heating. It constitutes of two parts of Nitrogen and one part of Oxygen (N2O). When Nitrous Oxide is heated to a temperature of about 570 degrees F (~300 degree C), it splits into oxygen and nitrogen. So, injection of Nitrous oxide into the engine results into more oxygen available during combustion. As there is more oxygen available during combustion, the engine can also intake more fuel, and consequently generate more power. Thus, Nitrous oxide is one of the simplest manners to give a substantial horsepower boost to any gasoline engine.

Secondly, when pressurized Nitrous oxide is injected into the intake manifold, it boils and vaporizes. As a result, Nitrous oxide provides significant cooling effect on the intake air. With the cooling effect, the temperature of the intake air reduces by 60-75 degrees F. This in turn, increases air density and subsequent higher concentration of oxygen inside the cylinder. Thus additional power is generated. As per standard rule, every 10 degrees F reduction in intake charge temperature causes 1% increase in power. For example, a 350 HP engine with an intake temperature drop of 70 degrees F shall gain around 25HP on the cooling affect alone.

Thirdly, the nitrogen released during the process of heating also supports the performance aspect. As Nitrogen dampens down the increased cylinder pressure, it controls the combustion process eventually.

Nitrous oxide is colossal just like any other gas. Even its liquid form does not excuse the bulky nature of the gas. The engine requires a huge quantity of Nitrous Oxide to keep the 5-liter engine running at 4,000 rotations per minute (RPM). The speed of 4,000-RPM rate is secured by combustion of 10,000 liters of air every minute. In sharp contrast, the engine consumes only 0.2 liters of gasoline. In nutshell, the engine shall require magnanimous quantity of Nitrous oxide to run your vehicle continuously. Therefore, a car normally carries limited amount of nitrous oxide, which is used very selectively by the driver, by pushing a button.

Nitrous system offers improvement of 1 to 3 full seconds and 10 to 15 MPH in the quarter mile. Other factors viz. engine size, tires, jetting, gearing etc. determine the final results. It is best used with a wide-open throttle, unless a progressive controller is used. It can be safely applied above 2,500 rotations per minute (RPM) under full throttle conditions.

Forged aluminum pistons are one of the best modifications to complement NOS. Other important modifications may be a forged crankshaft, a high quality race type connecting rod, a high output fuel pump dedicated to feeding the additional fuel demands of Nitrous system and a racing fuel with high specific gravity and an octane rating of 110 or more.

For effective performance through Nitrous Oxide, it is important to choose the correct Horse Power for a given application. To elaborate, as the energy will be released in the cylinder, the load on various components to perform will also increase proportionately. If the energy released is greater than the ability to handle the energy, it will amount to wear and tear of the machinery. While 4 cyl. engines allow an extra 40-60 HP, 6 cyl. engines allow 75-100 extra HP only. On identical lines, while small blocks V8’s (302/350/400cid) typically allow up to 140 extra HP, big blocks V8’s (427/454) accept from 125–200 extra HP.

As Nitrous looses the optimal flow rate at very cold temperatures, NOS kit has a nitrous pressure gauge that allows you to monitor the pressure to approximately 800-900 psi. In colder climates, it is always advisable to purchase a bottle heater kit, part # 14161 to keep the ambient temperature to 70-90 degrees F.

Further, the condition of the engine is important to keep in mind while choosing NOS kit for your vehicle. A worn out and poorly tuned up vehicle will not be able to sustain NOS pressure and will be instead harmed by abnormal wear.

Though the button triggering on Nitrous oxide may be held pressed until the bottle containing it is rendered empty, it is recommended that Nitrous Oxide may be used for 15 continuous seconds or lesser. The Nitrous bottle can be easily refilled from any NOS certified distributor. The NOS bottle must not be overfilled as overfilling and/ or too much heat can result into excessive bottle pressures, following a blown out safety seal and eventual release of all the contents out of the bottle.

[Summary]

To wrap up, Nitrous Oxide magnifies the output of any engine – be it stock engine or modified engine, to lend more power and better performance. However, it is important to keep the condition and horsepower of the engine in mind before introducing particular NOS to it to secure positive results only.

Defensive driving gives you the essentials on road safety measurements. All the drivers must know this simple driving fact that you can control your action(s) on most of the on-road occasions, but you cannot control or can’t even know what is happening with other drivers on the road. So, defensive driving provides ample information and knowledge to all those people who are looking for comprehensive and lifetime solutions against accidents and other on-road mishaps.

Defensive driving is also known as advanced driving. This is one sophisticated and next level type of training that automobile driver can undertake and learn to master the basic mechanics of driving. They can indeed master all the rules of roads. The aim of the training is to minimize the risk of driving by proactively and spontaneously avoiding dangerous situations despite incorrect actions or adverse conditions on the road. All these and much more can be accomplished via commitment to specific rules as the constant practice of particular driving techniques.

Well, considering the true essence and aspect of defensive driving, you would find out that it is a style of driving wherein you need to take every possible precaution to prevent any mishap from happening. Defensive driving is a brilliant way of keeping you and your family safe while driving.

So, let us take a look at some of the rules relating to defensive driving.

The first and the foremost aspect, is to become fully prepared before taking on your vehicle on the road. You need to check and ensure certain important aspects like water levels, gas, and oil and tire pressures of your vehicle. You also need to check seats, mirrors and ensure important documentations like insurance before hitting the roads.

The second aspect related to defensive driving is that you should never react to road rage and neither display it. This ensures that you don’t break traffic rules recklessly and arrive to any condition which causes harm to you or others.

It is advisable that you purchase bright colored cars. Car colors like yellow, orange or red can make your car easily visible and prominent on the roads. On an average basis, bright colored cars are less likely to be involved in an accident rather than light colored cars.

Usage of headlights is an important aspect related to defensive driving. It ensures that others can see you coming and you can also see clearly during night driving. While you drive, you need to ensure that you apply the three second rule. This rule states that you should at least maintain a driving time of 3 seconds behind the vehicle in front of you. You should maintain this driving time all of the times. However, if the car condition or environmental conditions are bad, you should increase this driving time to 5 seconds.

While driving you should avoid the cars that reflect signs of being damaged down or are broken down. Researches and studies have shown that these cars are prominently driven by bad drivers.

Follow defensive driving and have a happy and safe driving!

Today’s vehicles are equipped with an array of warning lights. Of course we’re all familiar will the seat belt warning and the door ajar indicator; however, with the automotive industry’s technological advancements there are a number of warning lights that can be quite alarming.

Following is a Question and Answer Guide on some of the more common Warning Light concerns. Note: due to the frequency of the Check Engine Warning Light, it has a section all its own. Visit www.repairtrust.com/check.html.

1) SRS Light (Supplemental Restraint System): the supplemental restraint system is your Airbag System. It may incorporate a variety of active, passive, and even pre-safe technology depending on the vehicle. Given that the SRS System is a safety system, it is well monitored with numerous sensors and automatic self-tests. The slightest malfunction in this system illuminates the SRS light.

“Can the vehicle be driven with an SRS Light on?” Yes, at the owner’s risk. There are thousands of vehicles on the road without SRS technology.

“Is the airbag going to blow up?” It’s unlikely. When the SRS Light is on the system is inoperative.

2) ABS Lights: The Anti-Lock Brake System Warning Light is another common occurrence in today’s vehicles. The ABS system helps to keep you from skidding out of control during braking by limiting your wheels from locking up/skidding.

The ABS system is often integrated with traction control and stability systems, all of which are designed to keep you safe during panic stops, wheel slippage, and handling.

“Do I need brakes?” You might, but that’s not why the ABS Light is on. The ABS Warning System does not monitor disc brake pad or disc brake rotor wear (see the Padlight Warning section below)

“Can the vehicle be driven?” Like the SRS system, the vehicle can be driven at the owner’s risk as there are many vehicles still on the market without the enhanced safety features of ABS.

“Why is my ABS light on? How do I reset the ABS Light?” These are simple questions with a multitude of answers depending on the vehicle in question. For a QUICK and FREE solution, follow the information and guidelines for Resetting Check Engine Light, and apply them to your ABS light.

3) Low Coolant Light: The Low Coolant Light will come on when the coolant drops below the coolant level sensor—generally one to two quarts. If this light is on, there are two primary possibilities. The most common is a coolant leak. The other is an electrical fault in the warning lamp circuit. Have them checked out.

“Can it be driven?” If there are no major leaks, the vehicle is not overheating (and does not start to overheat), and there is still some evidence of coolant in the overflow bottle, it can be driven. If you can see coolant leaking on the ground—tow it. When in doubt, always tow it!

4) Red Oil Light On: Stop driving immediately and shut the engine off! If a Red Oil Warning Light comes on PAY ATTENTION.

The best case scenario is that your engine oil is a little low. The second best case scenario is that there is an electrical issue with the Oil Level Warning System circuit.

First, follow your owners’ manual’s instructions to check your oil. If low, add as recommended—make sure you don’t see it dripping or pouring out on the ground, which would indicate a “major” engine leak.

If the oil is not low and your engine is making ticking, knocking, or unusual noises, Tow it!

If everything appears ok, and you’re a bit of a gambler, it may just be an issue with the warning lamp circuit. In this case, get your vehicle checked out at your earliest convenience.

The worst case scenario is internal engine damage.

Note: many of today’s vehicles have very sensitive and sophisticated Oil Level Warning Systems. You may be alerted of oil level too high, or oil level too low. Again, refer to your owners’ manual’s instructions.

So whether it’s a 1993 Ford Aerostar Check Oil Light, or a question of “Why does oil light flash in Saab automobile,” PAY ATTENTION!

5) Red Brake Warning Lights: Generally, Red Warning Lights mean DANGER. In the case of a Red Brake Warning Light, there may be a hydraulic brake fluid leak. If the brake pedal feels abnormal or spongy—don’t drive—Tow It!

“Can I drive it?” If the car is stopping ok, and you’re a gambler, go ahead. If the brake pedal feels different than usual, or if the vehicle is not stopping properly, don’t drive it!

Note: make sure that your emergency brake is not on or partially engaged, as this will illuminate a Red Brake Warning Light.

6) Yellow Brake Warning Light (Padlight): This is an early warning system for brake pad wear. Essentially, as your disc brake pads wear down, at a certain point a sensor is tripped to alert you that you will need brakes soon.

“Can I drive the vehicle, and for how long?” Yes, you can continue to drive. How long depends on your driving style. City drivers (city driving is generally harder on brakes due to the constant stop and go) will likely need their brakes addressed before someone who does primarily highway driving.

“Will I do more damage to the brakes?” Depending on how long you continue to drive you could conceivably wear your disc brake pads down to the metal backing plate, which could then damage your disc brake rotors and, in rare cases, the disc brake calipers. However, with many of today’s brake systems, the replacement of the disc brake rotors along with the disc brake pads is required or strongly recommended.

Important: It is better to have your brakes checked early to increase the possibility of saving money by not having to replace the rotors. However, many of today’s brake disc pads and rotors require replacement not due to wear, but due to rust and corrosion; thus rotor replacement is often necessary anyway. Brake calipers rarely need replacing during regular brake work.

7) Air Suspension Lights (Airmatic, Air Ride, Hydraulic Suspensions): Suspension Warning Lights illuminate when the suspension’s monitoring system has detected a fault. Often there is a leak—either air or hydraulic fluid.

“Can I drive it?” Sometimes. But if the suspension is lower than usual, and/or the vehicle just doesn’t feel right—Tow It! Extensive damage could result if the suspension drops too low while driving.

Note: air suspension system repairs are best left to the best, state-of-the-art service center you can find, preferably a dealership.

Tire Pressure Warning Light: This recent technological development causes quite a bit of confusion. Put simply, if your tire is getting low on air, your car lets you know via sensors mounted in various places depending on the model.

“What is the low tire pressure warning light reset procedure?” Sometimes the reset procedure is as simple as pressing a button. Other times one has to set the tire pressures, recalibrate the on-board computer, genuflect and cross two fingers. Check your owners’ manual or call a specialist or dealer.

Note: Local shops and franchises (for the most part) lack familiarity with Tire Pressure Monitoring Systems given that this is a fairly recent technological development. You can refer to How to Reset Check Engine Light, and follow the tips, and suggestions for getting it reset.

9) Emission Warning Light: This light is similar to the Check Engine Light. Many European models such as Volvos have this type of Warning System. It’s essentially letting you know that an emissions component has failed or detected a fault. Follow the Check Engine Light information and tips to address this particular warning light.

Note: make sure you take it to a shop equipped to handle emissions work.

10) Resetting Oil Lights (Oil Change Warning Lamps): Whether it’s a Toyota Oil Light Procedure, an Oil Change Warning Light Reset 2005 GMC Envoy, or the process to Reset 1999 M3 Oil Service Light, all require a specific course of action.

Most owners’ manuals have this information. You should find it under maintenance or oil service. You can also call your local mechanic, who resets oil service lights everyday on a variety of models. A dealership will certainly have the information; however, finding someone in a dealership who can translate it effectively may be difficult.

If the above fails, see the process for Resetting Check Engine Light.

Note: several European models require special tools to reset the oil service light, thus it’s best to call or visit a specialist or dealer.

Note: This information is not a substitute for your vehicle’s owners’ manual. It is meant to be a general guide. Always refer to manufacturer vehicle-specific guidelines.

Note: PAY ATTENTION to how you are billed for any of the above warning concerns. Because of their technical nature they can get “unnecessarily” very pricy, quickly.

A popular joke in the 1960s at full service gas stations was "filler up with Ethel and change the air in my tires." Today with the price of gasoline approaching $3.00 per gallon, why not replace the air in your tires. Not with air but with nitrogen. Filling your tires with nitrogen rather than air will improve gas mileage, help maintain correct tire pressure, keep tires 25% cooler, improve handling and performance and prolongs the life of your tires. NASCAR drivers use nitrogen in their tires for safety reasons, you can too.

Why should you stop putting air in your tires! Compressed air you find at tire shops, gas stations and the compressor you use at home have a high concentrations of water vapor. Compressing air concentrates the water in it and unless really efficient air dryers are used chances are there is water vapors in your tires. Water vapor absorbs and holds heat. This wet air plus heat can increase the pressure in your tires, causing highway blow outs, and is one of the reason you should check your tire pressure when they are cold.

This article is not about the nitrogen. It’s really about reducing oxygen and water vapor in your tires. The air in our tires is composed of 78% nitrogen, 21% oxygen and about 1% water vapor and other gases. When pure dry nitrogen is used to replace the air in your tires it improves fuel efficiency, handling and it will extend the life of steel rims or custom wheels and tires. By reducing oxygen and water vapor in your tires from 22% to less than 7%, your tires will maintain pressure three to four times longer. Plus it will keep you safer on the highway.

How does oxygen and water damage my rims and tires? Oxygen, especially at high temperatures and pressures, corrodes aluminum, steel wheels and rubber. This process is called oxidation. When oxidation occurs small particles of rust and aluminum oxidization in your steel or aluminum wheels can clog valve stems, causing them to leak. The oxidation can cause the surfaces of your wheel flange and tire beads not to seal properly causing another leak point.

Oxygen can also age the thin layer of rubber called the inner liner or radial ply. As the inner liner ages, more and more air migrates through the rubber, causing additional pressure losses. As oxygen migrates through rubber it can come in contact with steel belts and the steel bead causing them to rust.

While both nitrogen and oxygen can migrate through rubber, nitrogen does it much slower. It might take six months to lose a couple of pounds of nitrogen, compared to less than a month with wet compressed air. Dry nitrogen does not cause rust and corrosion on steel rims or aluminum custom wheels, and it does not degrade rubber like wet compressed air.

Where can I get nitrogen for my tires? Nitrogen is becoming very popular with long haul trucking. Some truck stops have nitrogen available for these big rigs either free or by paying a small fee. They use the same type pay stations that you see at gas stations except they are marked "Nitrogen". These nitrogen stations are then connected to large nitrogen cylinders near by.

You can also buy your own small inexpensive Nitrogen Tanks and have them filled at welding supply stores in your area. Another source for small nitrogen tanks is Paint Ball supply stores either local or on the internet. eBay is a good source. These small nitrogen tanks can be filled at welding supply stores and then easily plumbed to fill your tires. Use caution when handling these small nitrogen tanks as they can be filled to as much as 3000 psi. Also make sure the nitrogen tank you purchase has a regulator attached and it is set for about 50 psi.

Filling your own new tires with nitrogen is a simple process. Jack up one tire until it just clears the ground, remove the tire valve stem and allow the air in your tires to escape. Once all the air escapes install a new valve stem. Then simply fill your tires with nitrogen from your small nitrogen tank. Repeat the process with the other 3 tires. Do not forget your spare! Your tires should now have about 95% dry nitrogen and you have significantly reduced all the hazards and oxidation problems mentioned above.

If you own a tire store and would like to provide nitrogen for your customers buy a Ingersoll Rand Nitrogen Tire Inflation System.