Purchasing a new car is a major investment. Aside from buying a new house, it may be the biggest purchase you will ever make in your entire life. For this reason, you should be certain that you are dealing with a trustworthy maryland hyundai car dealer before deciding to part with your hard-earned cash.

We have all heard the horror stories about those shady car dealers who talk fast and separate a sucker from his money even faster. The good news is that they are the minority and that most car dealers are dependable and honest. Here are a few tips to help you find a trustworthy hyundai car dealership in maryland

(1) Do your homework

Before you start talking to car dealers, try to find out what they are all about. Research online and check their track record, the quality of their after-sales service and other information that will shed light on their reputation and trustworthiness.

At the same time, try to get a firm grasp of the kinds of hyundai that you may want given your particular tastes and budget. This way, when you start speaking to maryland hyundai car dealers, you can tell if their sales pitch about the car you want is accurate or just a lot of hogwash. Bear in mind, though, that just because a salesperson quotes you a price that is higher than what youve seen online, it doesnt mean hes a crook. Trying to make a decent profit is just part of their job.

(2) Trust Your Instincts

Sometimes you will come across a salesperson that you simply dont trust or are not comfortable with for no apparent reason. Those bad vibes mean something. Perhaps your subconscious has spotted something out of place about this person and is sending you a signal. In this instance, it would be better to ask for someone else.

(3) Use your head, not your heart

Oftentimes, the biggest reason why consumers fall for fast-talking, sleazy salespersons is that they make their purchasing decisions based on feelings and emotions rather than rational thought.

There is a lot of psychology that goes into buying a car. We may be enamored with the way it looks, the feel of the steering wheel in our hands, the way the seats press against our body or the feeling that a certain car is perfect for our personality. It just feels right. When you feel this way about a new car, think hard. Otherwise, it will be easy for a smart car dealer to persuade you into making that purchase.

(4) Be careful during negotiations

Once you enter the negotiation phase, be very careful since this is where most of the dirty tricks begin. For instance, keep your wits about you when a salesman offers you a car that is, say, $1,000 cheaper than their competitors because there may be some additional hidden charges that you will have to pay such as a documentation fee or handling charge or when your salesman forgets to charge you for sports rims. This is an old ploy. Sometimes you just have to stand up, say no thanks and look for another maryland hyundai car dealer.

(5) Do a full inspection

Finally, dont forget to make a full inspection of your new hyundai before leaving the lot. Check for scratches, flaws or other imperfections. The repair of these items should be covered in your deal with the car dealership. It pays to make sure.

The Hyundai Azera is a car model from Hyundai Motor Corp. which was produced in 1986. The fourth generation of Hyundai cars is called the Hyundai Azera and it was marketed first in North America.

The all new Azera started in 2006 as an advanced sedan which provides many traits and amenities which are usually characteristic for more expensive cars. The Azera offers the full-size luxury automobile consumer a more elegant cabin, more security characteristics, and a smoother drive.

Technical aspects

The Azera has a four-wheel independent suspension (multi-link in the rear) and uses the company’s new 3.8 L Lambda V6, which generates 263-hp (196 kW). The power is sent to the front wheels through a five-speed automatic transmission with "Shiftronic" manual gear selection. Hyundai claims 6.3 seconds to accelerate to 60 mph (97 km/h) and a top speed of 157 MPH (252 km/h). The Azera has a fuel economy of 19 MPG (12.4 L/100 km) in the City and 28 MPG (8.4 L/100 km) on the Highway is expected.

Styles and Major Options

The Azera offers plenty of perfomance using an awe-inspiring 263-hp DOHC V6 24-valve aluminum power plant with CVVT, variable induction and intake of cold-air.

The Azera is the most uncompromising car Hyundai’s ever created through a double-wishbone front suspension and multi-link rear suspension, with front and rear stabilizer bars to provide an optimized ride and handling.

The Hyundai Azera is recognized an an Ultra Low Vehicle Emission. The Azera helps the driver reach amazing levels of efficiency, with a trip computer that allows for MPG monitoring. You are provided alloy wheels, heated front seats, leather seat-upholstery, and a power sun shade in the rear window. In the ultimate package are included an improved audio system with 10 speakers and a 6-Disc CD changer, a power sunroof, telescopic steering wheel, and rain-sensing windshield wipers.

Safety

Eight Airbags which come standard on the AzeraHyundai make you sure that their Azera has many standard features and it can be compared to Toyota Avalon, with Electronic Stability Control, Traction Control, as well as Anti-Lock Brakes (ABS). The Azera also comes standard with 8 airbags and remote keyless entry, and an anti-theft engine immobilizer. The Azera/Grandeur TG" is a full-size sedan. It is sold as the Hyundai Azera in North America.

Being a step up from the Sonata, the Azera is evaluated at $24,995 for a base SE model, $27,495 for the Limited version, and $29,995 for the Ultimate Package. The flagship Azera will be the most luxurious sedan Hyundai is selling outside of Korea.

The Azera was named "Best New Family Car (over $35,000)" in the 2006 Canadian Car of the Year awards.

It also was awarded by Car and Driver because it has more rear legroom than a BMW 7 Series. It is also believed to have more overall interior room than the BMW 7 Series.

For more details go to http://www.ourismanhyundai.com

With the introduction of the first Grand Cherokee, Jeep defined and created the luxury sport utility vehicle (SUV) market, but in spite of this grand tradition the model is currently experiencing some difficulties. Jeep not only defined what an SUV was, it was the SUV market in the USA with the inception of the Cherokee and later on Grand Cherokee. This is no longer the case. The growing list of strong competition has intensified, and along with high fuel prices, this has lead to some serious challenges to Chrysler in spite of Jeep’s combination of legendary 4×4 capabilities, on and off-road refinements, and technological innovations.

The Jeep Grand Cherokee was one of the pioneering SUVs that ushered in the modern SUV market in the early 1990s. When it debuted, the Grand Cherokee represented a bigger and more refined version of Jeep’s smaller but popular Cherokee. The company’s designers wanted the Grand Cherokee it to be maneuverable enough for city driving, roomy enough for the whole family, stylish enough to take out on the town and rugged enough to reach those remote camping areas. The Grand Cherokee certainly met all of these requirements and, we feel that Jeep continues with this tradition in its current Grand Cherokee version.

The 2005/2006 version of the Grand Cherokee, which is the model’s 3rd generation, is one of the best SUVs made, and as one critic put it “arguably the most desirable”. With some of the outstanding available features of full-time four-wheel drive, independent front suspension, rack and pinion steering, a five-speed transmission, and an available 5.7-Liter HEMI V-8 with MDS, which deactivates up to 8 cylinders when not needed for better gas mileage performance, the Grand Cherokee is featured packed. Safety features include Electronic Stability Program, SmartBeam ™ headlamps that automatically and quickly adjust high-beam brightness and intensity, All-Speed Traction Control System, and advanced multi-stage air bags with an Occupant Classification System. The look and feel of the body was also updated to give it an edgy angular look, which looks new and contemporary while retaining that Grand Cherokee style with the famous 7-slot Jeep grille. Chrysler also gave the Grand Cherokee an updated suspension system that delivers better corning turning performance and a tighter turning radius.

In spite of these top-of-the-line features, Grand Cherokee sales in the USA for 2006 (ending December 31, 2006) were 139,148 units, which were down from 213,584 in 2005. This represents a decline of 35%. Jeep’s smaller SUV, the Liberty, also saw its numbers drop dramatically in 2006 with unit sales of 133,557 versus unit sales of 166,883 for 2005, a 20% decline. While it doesn’t necessarily make Chrysler feel any better, they were not alone in decreased sales in the SUV segment. Other USA car manufacturers also experienced declines. Ford experienced a 25% drop in its SUV sales for the USA, while GM’s truck sales were down 9.6% (2,499,269 for 2006 versus 2,765,809) (detailed performance reports for GM’s SUVs was not available). The decline in SUV sales, especially mid-range models, was affected by the dramatic price increases in gasoline during 2006. This along with luxury SUV models by BMW, Lexus, Mercedes, and Porshe, and mid-priced SUVs by Mitsubishi, Toyota and others experiencing a surge in popularity is creating a sizable challenge to Chrysler. With its outstanding features, Jeep tradition, and the Daimler-Chrysler technology behind it, we look for the Grand Cherokee to make a strong return in the future.

Used car prices are elusive, despite numerous attempts to harness them. We’ve all heard of Retail, Private Party and Trade-in values. But do these “help” in determining a vehicle’s real value? When we turn to the web for prices, it gets even more elusive. One web site places a retail value on a car at $18,000. Another puts it at $21,000. What should we believe?

If sellers are looking to get the highest price for the car they’re selling, and the buyer wants to get the best deal possible, is there such thing as a fair used car price for both parties?

The answer is yes, but both parties have to be on the same page.

We’ll call this “page” Fair Market Value.

That being said, how do we interpret the market to determine fair market value? Since most sellers and buyers are going to try to interpret the market to his or her advantage, let’s even the playing field.

One of the most profound remarks I’ve heard to establish a better playing field for used car pricing comes from industry expert and owner of Medway Imports, Barry Roth. He states:

“To find market value, you need to take all the pricing data you find for a particular vehicle and throw out the high and low prices. What’s left in the middle is where you’ll find a fair market value.”

While this doesn’t address the used car pricing problem entirely, it does remove the unrealistic numbers that many clutch to like the drowning to a life preserver. It moves folks to more reasonable prices according to the market.

A lot of time is spent on popular web sites (for better or worse) to “help” determine used car pricing. But one should also follow and watch the market to see what cars are being advertised and sold for—if they’re being sold at all.

Used car prices are also determined via auction pricing, and industry used car guides such as Black Book and the NADA Official Used Car Guide.

Importantly, even these books don’t settle the used car pricing debate. Here’s a publisher’s note on the inside cover of the latest NADA guide.

It states:

The vehicle values in the N.A.D.A OFFICIAL USED CAR GUIDE,® are developed by N.A.D.A’s editors based on many sources of information. These include reports of actual transactions throughout each area for which the guide is published.

The values in this guide assume a vehicle is clean. Appropriate deductions should be made for reconditioning costs incurred to put the vehicle in a salable condition. An exceptionally clean vehicle or one that bears a guarantee, warranty, or manufacturer certification should bring a premium price.

Please read your guide carefully when determining the value of optional equipment. N.A.D.A.’s editors believe that most optional equipment has little or no value on older cars. This is especially true of options that cost relatively little when new and which deteriorate with age or use. Only the more popular vehicle options are listed in the guide. Unless otherwise stated, all vehicles are assumed to be equipped with automatic transmission, air conditioning, compact disc player (and/or AM/FM stereo cassette,) power steering, rear window defroster, and tilt steering wheel. For other standard options, please review each vehicle’s listing.

As you can see, even the most respected used car pricing guide “assumes” quite a bit, leaning heavily on the “opinions” of its editors to determine “appropriate deductions” and thus the ultimate value of a particular car.

So where does this leave car buyers and car sellers? After both parties throw out the high and low prices, it leaves them in the middle of the market. This is where they’ll each get a fair shake(assuming vehicles are “clean”). Finding and picking a good or “clean” car is another story.

The BMW 3 Series coupe and cabriolet was firstly introduced at the end of the year 1999 to 2000. The present model has the vehicle body code E46. It uses the same hood structure and the front body as the previous model. The most difference from the previous model is the front headlight and front bumper which can be divided into 3 models, sedan and station wagon models, coupe and cabriolet models and the compact models.

>From the information above, you can see that the minor change for the BMW 3 Series is mostly independent from the fact that there are many models for it. They don’t need to minor change all 3 groups at the same time. The first minor change is for the sedan and station wagon since the end of the year 2001 and come along with the minor change for coupe and cabriolet in the end of 2002 but the actual release date was around March in 2003.

The minor change for coupe and cabriolet models can be easily seen by the front head lights. It includes all high, low beam and turn signal in the same frame and changes the color of the turn signal from yellow to transparent white. The turn signal on the side of the cars moved upward and change to blurry white instead of yellow.

The front hood keeps the same style but the size of the grill was increased 300 millimeters from the previous version, which gives the uniqueness for the 3 Series.

Other than the above, there are other optional accessories such as the Bi-xenon headlights with the angle control system. The headlights will turn as you turn the steering wheel to increase the safety while you driving at night.

The tail lights still use the same style but change the turn signal from yellow to white and the parking light from a big long row was reduce to a smaller size and the break light was changed to LED which is brighter and better compare to the older one.

Rear bumper bas remade by removing the long hole in it and added a black stripe to connect both lights on the bumper.

The dimension for the cabriolet is 4488 millimeters wide 1757 millimeters long 1369 millimeters tall and 2725 millimeters for the wheel base length. The coupe model has the same dimension as the cabriolet except from the 1372 millimeters tall

The interior inside keeps the same common features such as big gauge, RPM needle, speed, gasoline level and temperature arrange the same way as they did in the first 3 Series which we know under the code E21.

The improvement of Renault, the inventor of the “Wind” roadster this year, is considered an interesting step because it reflexes the tendency into the roadster market in the future. There are many fascinating features of Wind developed under the “Touch Design” concept, such as the elegantly designed appearance that reflexes lively and the inner decorated with fine quality materials which reflexes class.

Neat, clean appearance consists of 2 main lines which are the bottom and top lines. Although the headlights’ shapes are plain, they are a significant part that helps empower the overall. Transparent windshield stuffed with blue and green lights similar to plane’s light, which are such brilliant. The green smoothly blended with the light blue or aquamarine of the body part is the individual characteristic of Wind. Fabulous 19-inch wheels and “245-35/ZR19” Michelin Pilot Sport 2 tires are another remarkable complement.

The most outstanding of it is the 3-seat capacity which is cocoon-curve shaped, light brown leather seat embraces the passengers and the driver.

Frill-designed seats are permanently installed, as well as the steering wheel and console that are adjustable and automatically roll out when the doors are opened, and that helps the passenger enter the car more easily. The center section linked with the back seat which is made of carbon fiber. It is layered with foam and leather, which can flip inside out in order to make the third seat.

Although it is a compact roadster, Wind contains wide and useful space. The rear space has 232 liters in capacity. Wind’s dimension consists of 3870 millimeters in length, 1750 millimeters in width, excluding the side windows, 1260 millimeters in height, and 2395 millimeters in wheel’s base’s length, as well as the 850 kilograms in weight.. The back seat has extra thick car soft-top attached with the rear curve-shaped window for protecting the passengers from rain and sunlight.

All Wind’s controlling devices are made of aluminum, which reflexes the sport characteristic. They are designed to be in round shape installed in the center of console. They contain control button, communicative device, stereo, and navigation system.

6-speed robotized gearbox is designed to be with the dashboard, while the shift gear is put on the steering wheel like the Formular-1’s. There is one gauge-meter made of cylinder-shaped glass. It is used for indicating the round-per-minute speed which is displaying the numbers in both analog and digital.

Air conditioner’s controller is designed to put on the inner driver’s door. Its engine is a 16-valve 2.0liters, 136 horsepower maximum, and 191 N/m torque. It is considered a low-pollution engine which qualifies the Euro-4 polluting gas production regulation. From the Wind’s information, it implies the effort to market the small roadster which has the outstanding in designs in color, capacity, and clean burning energy that is quite energetic. Most of its designs are in the draft stage, so if Renault has a plan to import this production, they need at least 2 years in development.

They use less fuel. They are much more efficient. They are much less polluting. And what’s more, they require much less maintenance. Yes, hybrids really do score better on all counts when compared to conventional vehicles. In fact not only do they need much less service, they are also made to run better and last longer. So you should take all these factors into consideration when you are making a choice. Let’s take a look at why they don’t need as much maintenance.

Firstly, they have fewer parts than a conventional car and hence, fewer parts to wear out. It’s the way they are built. There’s no regular starter and this technology means that there is one part less that needs to be replaced. No starter also means there is no chance of accidentally grinding the flywheel. The battery and the motor too do not require too much maintenance. The engine lasts longer than a conventional engine and requires as much maintenance perhaps as a conventional one. A hybrid does not need any valve adjustments done and even if there are valves, they do not get worn out because the engine does not run constantly. And the injectors do not need regular cleaning, in fact maybe they never need to be cleaned because there is hardly any deposit on them.

The hybrid car uses electricity to run the air-conditioning system unlike the conventional ones that use a traditional pulley that is driven off a gas motor. So this means there is no air-conditioning belt to wear out. There is also no belt used for the steering because it is not hydraulic but electric. So it has very little kickback even when driving over rough, uneven roads.

The hybrid car’s generator can multi-task. The generator is an important part of the hybrid car and there is a separate gas engine that powers it. A hybrid engine is really very small, maybe 10 to 20 horsepower and it is so designed that it gets maximum efficiency if it runs at one speed. Because the generator does many tasks, there is less wear and tear of the other parts and when braking or coasting, the car can recapture the energy. So there is no wastage of the battery and the battery does not need to be replaced very often. With the generator handling a lot of the braking – in fact 80% - it means that extends the life of the brakes too. There is also less chance of the rotors getting warped. Thanks to less of a heat build up, the life of the brake fluid is extended too and the brake pads last longer.

Hybrid cars also have warranties that are much longer. Most of the Toyota and Honda cars have much longer warranties on their hybrids than on the conventional ones. There’s an 8 year or an 80,000 mile warranty on the Honda Insight while for the Toyota Prius, you’ll get a 100,000 mile warranty or 8 years on the hybrid system and the battery. These longer warranties make the hybrid an attractive buy.

If you are making up your mind between a conventional car and a hybrid one, look at all the long-term advantages. Hybrids are built so they last longer and they don’t need as much looking after as a conventional car. Add to that the fact that they don’t guzzle as much gas and have fewer parts, therefore less maintenance and you’ll see why it makes good sense to decide in favor of the hybrid.

Clearly, a less important concern - for the moment—than Ford Windstar recalls might be what Levine Breaking News reported March 14, 2006: an anti-gay/conservative Christian group are seeking retribution by boycotting Ford Motors…because Ford advertises in gay publications.

Tell me when did we give up the right to spend our hard-earned money on costly advertising, top-class merchandise, and any ^%$# publication we wish to read, write for, subscribe to, publicize in, or be a demographic target for? Okay. Hold on. Before I get all involved in who has what - ahem - RIGHTS, I should calm down, digress, and recoup to the more significant concern or issue: Ford Winstar recalls. There are several of them, that vary from safety and other recall issues (and usually getting increasingly lessened by year), but a mention here will suffice, as other investigations thoroughly cover by describing and explaining.

FORD WINDSTAR RECALLS, 2003

-Seats: mid- and rear-assembly

FORD WINDSTAR RECALLS, 2002

-Seats: mid- and rear-assembly

FORD WINDSTAR RECALLS, 2001

- Mid- and rear-seat assembly - Windshield wiper/washer motor - Electrical system: air conditioner - Air bags frontal sensor control module - Accelerator pedal - Seat belt assembly - Trailer hitch

FORD WINDSTAR RECALLS, 2000

- Structure: body/hood - Vehicle speed control: accelerator pedal - Glass: side- and rear-view mirrors - Electrical wiring under dash - Electrical system wiring; windshield wiper/washer motor - Seat belts - Trailer hitch

FORD WINDSTAR RECALLS, 1999

- Structure: body/hood - Hydraulic brake foundation: hoses, lines, piping, fittings - Master cylinder - Electrical: air conditioning system; interior/under dash wiring - Windshield wiper/washer motor

FORD WINDSTAR RECALLS, 1998

- Structure: body/hood - Hydraulic brake foundation: hoses, lines, piping, fittings - Front wheel suspension springs and coils - Automatic trans/power train - Exterior lighting - Steering: gear box/shaft - Child seat

FORD WINDSTAR RECALLS, 1997

- Hydraulic brake foundation: hoses, lines, piping, fittings - Front wheel suspension springs and coils - Automatic trans/power train - Exterior lighting

FORD WINDSTAR RECALLS, 1996

- Structure: body/hood - Automatic trans/power train/gear position indication - Exterior lighting - Hydraulic brake foundation: hoses, lines, piping, fittings - Front wheel suspension springs and coils

FORD WINDSTAR RECALLS, 1995

- Structure: body/hood - Electrical system wiring - Hydraulic brake foundation: hoses, lines, piping, fittings - Front wheel suspension springs and coils - Alternator/generator - Gasoline storage tank assembly

With all of or despite all the recalls, I am still a huge Ford fan—having brought up around, in, and looking at and listening to hot rods and trucks made by Ford Motor Corp.. What’s more, I would still fight for the right to sell, buy, advertise, drive, think about or talk about any damned material item I please. Go Ford!

Here we have a few things you should check on your motorcycle on a regular basis. I assume you have a handbook with the specs for your bike, if not, go get one. You may be able to find some data for your particular motorcycle on the net. You can also pick up workshop manuals for various models on eBay in PDF or CD form for little money.

Whereas with a four wheeled vehicle you may get away with being lax with things like tire pressures etc, this is not the case with a motorcycle. You should not risk compromising the safety and stability of your motorcycle, for the sake of a bit of routine maintenance.

Pre-ride check

•Tires – check condition and for foreign objects in the tread.

•Tire pressures – it is vitally important to keep your motorcycles tire pressures either on spec or very close to it.

•Oil level – always check with the bike on level ground.

•Coolant level – only if your bike’s liquid cooled, obviously.

•Chain – check the tension and make sure it’s well lubed.

•Brakes – check they work and that they feel good.

•Lights – check all your lights, especially the brake light, you don’t want to get rear ended, do you?

•Visual inspection – self explanatory.

•All ok – hit the road.

Periodical checks

•Check battery – see that the connections are tight; I dropped a bike once because of a loose battery connection, strange but true. Also check the electrolyte level on some batteries, a lot of newer batteries are gel filled, sealed for life types, so no need with these.

•Carb balance – if your bike is multi carbed get yourself a Morgan carbtune or similar. It can be a little tricky the first time you balance them, but when you’ve done it once, the second time will be easy.

•Ignition timing – only necessary on some bikes, most newer models have electronic ignition which does not need touching, normally.

•Valve clearances – unless you’re a good home mechanic, take it to a dealer.

•Wheel bearings – grab each wheel with it off the ground and see if there is any sideways play. There should be none or maybe a trace at most.

•Steering head bearings – with the front end off the ground, grab the forks and push and pull. There should be no play.

•Swinging arm bearings – with the back wheel off the ground, check for any sideways movement in the swingarm, there should be none.

•Brakes – check fluid levels, brake hoses for deterioration, and pads/shoes for thickness.

•Cables and levers – should operate smoothly. Get some grease on lever/pedal pivot points, and get some lube down the cables, if you can. A cable oiler is a handy tool.

•Nut and bolts – go all round the motorcycle with your spanners and check that all nuts/ bolts/screws are nice and tight.

Well, that’s about it for some basic maintenance, obviously, unless you’re a good home mechanic, any bigger jobs will have to go to a dealer. The problem can be finding a good one with skilled mechanics you can trust. I manage to keep my Yamaha Fazer 1000 running sweet just using the steps listed above. It does help that this model only needs the valve clearances checking every 26,000 miles.

Why lift your Jeep? More height means more clearance for dealing with obstacles while offroading. It allows you to run larger tires, which also helps with conquering offroad challenges. Still another reason is that many folks just feel that a lifted Jeep with larger tires looks better, and I certainly agree with them. The added height and larger tires just give a Jeep a better more pronounced profile

No matter the reason for lifting your Jeep, there are a number of ways to go about it. Before you pick which one is right for you, you’ll need to make some decisions along the way. First, you’ll need to decide on what you’re looking to accomplish with the lift. Is it simply for show, or is it for go? Serious rock crawling anyone? Second, determine just how high you want to go. Looking for a little height for some mild wheeling or are you really serious about this height thing? Third, you’ll need to select the type of lift to use. Finally, install the lift or have it installed.

The basic methods for lifting a Jeep are Suspension Lift Kits, Body Lifts Kits, Shackle Lifts, Spring-Over-Axle Conversions, and Coil Spring Spacers. Jeep shackle lifts and coil spring spacers typically result in a maximum increase of 2 inches. Coil spring spacers are just what they say: spacers that are inserted under the base of the coil spring, resulting in lifting the springs higher. Shackle lifts are comprised of leaf spring shackles that are longer and lift the frame higher from the leafs. Both of these kits are rather inexpensive methods, but if you’re looking for more than a couple of inches, you’ll need to look elsewhere.

Spring-Over-Axle conversion kits allow you to change the location of the leaf spring from beneath the axle to sit on top of it. They’ll usually result in a lift of 4 inches or more. This can be increased by the size of springs you use with the over axle kit. Use of these can cause cantering, and steering linkage and driveline issues which must be addressed. It can become a little complicated for the less mechanically inclined among us (I’m one of them!). It will definitely change the handling of the rig. While the spring-over-axle conversion kits are rather inexpensive when compared to suspensions lifts, there is a good bit of time and money spent on fixing the issues it creates, which needs to be taken into consideration when assessing the costs of your various options.

With Body Lift Kits you basically unbolt the body from the frame, and place manufactured blocks between the Jeep’s body and the rolling chassis. This raises the body of your Jeep but doesn’t directly increase the clearance of your undercarriage. The body lift does allow you to run larger tires, which will increase your Jeep’s clearance.

Suspension lift kits will directly increase the clearance of a Jeep. They call for installing taller suspension components (higher lift springs and longer recoil shocks). These systems deliver lift, better articulation, and better offroad handling. Unfortunately, they are the most expensive of the lift options, but they deliver the best handling performance.

When it comes down to choosing a lift, you’ll need to determine why you’re lifting the vehicle, and how much you’re willing to pay for it. If you’re only looking to add a couple of inches and you want the lift just for looks, a body kit, coil-spring-spacers or lift shackles may be just what the doctor ordered. If you’re looking to build a Jeep that is more offroad capable then you should look at suspension lift systems.

Many serious offroaders combine the suspension lift with a body lift for additional height. Installation of any of these lifting methods will usually change the handling of a vehicle. They all raise the center of gravity and will, therefore, affect side-to-side handling and cornering. This can be addressed by adding wider tires along with the lift. Depending on the type and size of kit you install and the model of your Jeep, you may need to install a dropped Pitman arm, longer control arms, longer brake hoses, a transfer case drop, and/or a CV drive shaft and slip yoke eliminator kit (due to a change of the angle of the drive train on TJs and some Cherokees). It’s important to not cut corners when lifting your Jeep. Why spend the money on a lift just to compromise the handling performance and face potentially serious wear and tear issues with key components? Do it right the first time and it will serve you in the long run.

Whatever system you select, the one thing for sure is that the added height will help give your Jeep that rugged tough look most of us seem to prefer.