Even if it is just chemicals outgassing, there’s nothing like that new car smell. It says you’re smart, responsible and successful. In fact, the only thing better than the new car smell is the pride you’ll feel as you take your new wheels for a spin.

It’s certainly no secret that driving a stylish new car is fun and exciting. New cars carry warranties that protect you from unnecessary maintenance and repair bills for extended periods of time, so they can be great investments. The secret is in buying a brand new car, truck, van or SUV without deflating your budget. For many smart shoppers, the right car loans turn their new car dreams into realities.

Direct Auto Financing

One of the biggest money-saving actions you can take in purchasing your new vehicle is with financing through an independent car lender. This borrowing plan is referred to as "direct financing" or "direct loans."

Direct financing is any kind of financing action, set up by you, without the help of the car dealer. There are considerable savings and minimal risks involved in direct loans, making them the best option for many new car buyers. When you walk into a dealership with a guarantee new car loan in hand, you’ve got automatic bargaining power. You’re able to have an upper hand in negotiations, and you can stand equally to your dealer. In the end, this increase flexibility keeps you from falling into the common trap of dealership price fixing and additional financing costs.

Shopping Strategies

The first strategy in shopping for new car loans is securing independent financing. With that in mind, allow yourself further flexibility by applying for a loan limit of at least a little over what you expect to pay. This gives you extra room for flexibility at closing time, without having to worry about the loan limit. Of course, you’re under no obligation to use your entire loan limit. Arranging for automatic payments is another way to lower your rates. By having your car loan payments deducted electronically from your bank account, you can save more money over the duration of your loan.

Price Haggling

Car dealers are seasoned professionals who are trained to get every dime out of you.

For that reason, it’s no wonder that so many people part with a lot of money after "negotiating" with a car dealer. Unless you’re an experienced negotiator, or have an armor of thick skin, going through a new car purchase can be an agonizing experience. The best protection from slick sales types is to walk in to the dealership with your financing already in place. When you’re in this position, you’ll find car dealers haggling with each other to get your business. Talk to local car dealers, and make it clear to them that you’ve been shopping around. Let them understand that you won’t settle for anything less than the very best deal. This leaves the dealers working to get your business, while all you need to do is choose the best one.

Owning a new car can make you feel like a million bucks, without feeling like you’ve just spent a million bucks. Shop around for car loans and make smart financing decisions, and you’ll soon be cruising along and taking in that new car smell.

OK - You’ve been putting off replacing those tread thin tires. Face it, replacing tires is a downright aggravating experience. Shopping for tires rests somewhere between doing your taxes or doing house cleaning. A dentist’s waiting room, while you’re hanging on anticipating that root canal, is unlikely to increase your anxiety. But, the bleak condition of most waiting rooms at tire dealers all too often propels us into an ambiance bordering on the repulsive.

Throughout our lives, the majority of us who drive will no doubt spend more than at least a day out of our lives marking time in a succession of these dismal dens. And then, we’re left to pore over long outdated, pawed over magazines offering little worthy of our attention.

We tend to think of tires like we think of electricity. Electric power is taken as a given. Only if it shuts off, are we really forced to think about it. We’re rudely reminded of our dependence on it when we lose it.

Our lack of consciousness about our tires is identical. Ignoring them seems to be the norm. All is well until we get a flat or blowout. All of a sudden we have to interrupt whatever we’re doing. We can’t get to a movie, miss picking up the kids or won’t make yoga class. Or much more seriously, one of our tires gives out and causes an accident. It’s not difficult to imagine any number of similar disruptions.

Fortunately, tire makers today are consistently improving tire performance and safety. Nevertheless, we, as car owners, have to cooperate. All things mechanical can only take so much wear and tear. Although excellent quality standards are built into tires today, they do have their useful life. It’s up to us to provide ongoing maintenance in the form of correct tire pressure, regular rotation, proper alignment and balancing. Even though we may be scrupulous about tire maintenance, there will come a time when we simply have to replace them. We dread the root canal and we dread the tire dealer.

How about a little surprise? A lot of the aggravation in replacing tires can be bypassed.

To the rescue come the good people at websites such as The Tire Rack. Your computer becomes your tire store while you sip a cool beverage in the comfort of your home or office. That’s right. All you need to do is log on. Now that’s convenience you might not otherwise expect when buying tires.

Here’s the rub. If you’re shopping for Bridgestone, Michelin, Dunlop, Goodyear, Pirelli or any other major tire make, The Tire Rack maintains and ships a full inventory of tire sizes and models. An easy to use “search widget” will permit you to locate readily the right size and tire model for your make and year of car, truck or SUV. ATV tires are available, as well. You can peruse tire reviews.

There’s more. The Tire Rack has made arrangements with tire dealers in your neighborhood to receive shipment and install them. If it’s more convenient for you, The Tire Rack will ship to your office or home.

You’ll want to consider these efficiencies when you buy tires online.

1. Save time shopping online.

2. You’ve selected the right tires.

3. No waiting at the dealer to complete the purchase.

4. Receive the tire maker’s full warranty.

5. Less interruption to your busy schedule.

6. You’re more likely to do it right now while you’re thinking of it.

Wait! There’s an even better idea. Have The Tire Rack mount your tires on a new set of wheels ready to stick on your vehicle. Very few things can rehab a worn looking jalopy better than a brand new set of tires and wheels.

If you are someone that takes pride in your car or cars, and you install performance car parts, then you already know that you have to be able to take care of these parts. The most popular form of performance car parts is the tires and rims, which can be located and put on to any car ever made. If you go even a little bit of time such as a few weeks without cleaning these parts, it can make the look of your car go from hip to poor right away. Those wheels that have somewhat of a bright finish will look bad if there is an over abundance of brake dust that has accumulated itself on the rim.

If you are using a bleaching agent to clean these areas, you are actually doing more harm than you are good. When cleaning these areas you want to use a top quality washing soap, a wheel cleaner, a tire brush, and smaller brush, maybe even a toothbrush, to fully clean the smaller parts of your rims. When you are washing your car, you should always begin by cleaning your wheels and only do that once they have cooled off from your driving. You run the risk of staining your tires if you wash them when they are warm. You have bought these performance car parts, so you should also take care of them.

The type of cleaner that is recommended for cleaning the wheels are the types that you can spray on, leave a few seconds, and then simply rinse off. These types of cleaners are free of acids and will not damage your tires like some others on the market today.

Once you have completed this, it is on to the next performance car part; the rims. The first thing to do with the rims is to give them a good scrubbing to remove the dirt that has heavily set in to them. Then you should put some more cleaner onto the rims, and begin using the tire brush, and the toothbrush, to intricately scrub the area. You may have to repeat this a few times to make sure there are no spots that you missed.

You should always remember to thoroughly dry off your rims and tires before putting any kind of preservative on the tires. This way there is not left over residue such as cleaner that will get locked into the tire through the preservative.

Truck rentals are used for moving, for the most part. They are used for the do-it-yourself moving, whether it is in-town moving, or various one-way moves. In-town moving is where the truck will be picked up then returned to the same location in the same town, and one-way moves are where the truck is picked up from one place and returned to another.

The cost of renting a truck will differ depending on the company you are using, amount of miles traveled, truck size, and availability. As most people move on the weekend, it is usually more expensive to rent during that time.

Some companies will rent by the day, for a set rate depending on the size of the truck, where other companies rent by a daily rate and a per-mile rate. Once again, these rates can change depending on the availability and demand.

One-way rentals also are worked out on availability of trucks at the location where you will be picking the truck up, as well as the demand on them where the drop off point is, so price ranges can go up and down. The total number of days and miles you have rented the truck for are established by the departure location, and the destination, with extra days and miles charged.

Typically, you will be required to submit a deposit before renting a truck, which is to ensure that there is no damage to the truck before returning it. Most companies will accept a cash deposit, but some companies will insist on a credit card deposit.

The mandates for taking possession of a truck will vary with each company, but all renters are required to have a valid driver’s license.

A lot of truck rental companies will require the person who will be driving the truck to be 18 years old, 21 years old or 25 years old. And the person who actually rents the truck is held fully responsible for the truck in the event of an accident or theft, even if there is another person driving the truck. A few companies do allow more than one person to be insured if it is arranged in advance, and it will usually involve extra fees.

If you want to tow your car, a car carrier will carry your entire car on a trailer which attaches to a place at the rear of your truck. A car carrier is recommended for all-wheel and four-wheel drive vehicles. A tow dolly is the recommended method for front-wheel drive vehicles. They lift the front wheels of your vehicle off the road, and pull it along behind your truck.

A hand truck or dolly will keep your back from being strained during the lifting of heavy objects into the truck. It will also speed up your moving process by allowing you to carry more items on each trip to or from the truck. You can also use furniture pads, as they will save your furniture from the scratches and dings which can happen during the moving process.

High performance and low cost were Plymouth’s design goals for a brand-new model in 1968. The company believed that the time was right for a factory hot rod for the youth market, and its guess was right on the money. It would have the macho name of Road Runner.

It was also a very “B Body” budget-friendly machine which made it another very important reason for purchasing. The high cost ruled out many of the muscle cars of the era.

Less money meant less chrome on the body, along with fewer options. In fact, those that intended their Road Runner for the drag strip sometimes ordered the Runner with the small hub-cap-style wheel covers and even deleted the radio.

A member of the Belvedere line, the new model came with a stock 383cid engine capable of 335 horsepower. But that was just the beginning, the awesome 426 Hemi and 440 Six-Barrel engines would become available the following model year.

Of course, the Hemi has been a legend for many years, but that triple-carbed 440 engine had adopted a cult following of its own. A significant body change had been planned for the ‘70 model, but that would be put off until the 1971 model year.

The 1970 440 continued to be capable of 390 horsepower when equipped with the so-called Air Grabber induction system. That interesting system provided a solid connection between the hood scoops and engine once the hood was closed. The sides of the pop-up Air Grabber door were eye-catching with evil-looking shark’s teeth etched on the sides.

The front end was menacing-looking with the blackout grille containing twin headlights mounted in its ends. The aggressive bumper contained a pair of round parking lights on either side of the license plate.

When looking at the ‘70 Road Runner, and comparing it with the other garnish MOPAR muscle machines of the era, it appeared downright stripped. Oh, there was a stripe and 440+6 lettering on the hood, but that was about it. About the only eye catcher was the simulated rear-fender-scoop cut-out.

Some of the models did, however, have a dust trail that reached from near the front of the front fender and disappeared into that scoop.

The only sizable name identification externally was the “Road Runner” lettering contained in a stripe located on the rear end of the car, just above the tail lights. As far as engine identification, in addition to the aforementioned 440+6 designations on the hood, there was also a “440” in the rear of a hood bulge.

With that famous name, the company made the most of it with a special horn to sound like that famous cartoon bird. The horn made the Road Runner ‘Beep Beep’ sound which was unmistakable.

Mike Cenky of Huber Heights, Ohio owns this ‘70 Road Runner hardtop with such an six-barrel 440 engine installation. A retired phone company employee, Mike acquired the four-speed model in 1988 in “fair condition.” I redid the powertrain and suspension system which both needed attention.”

As he was restoring the Road Runner, Mike came across some interesting clues that provided firm indications of the car’s early history. “The engine had a scatter shield, there was an indication of once having a drag-style line-lock set-up, and the rear wheelwells had been trimmed for large racing slicks.

“I bet that it made many runs down the drag strip during those days.” He indicated, though, that type of activity is not in his plans for the orange beauty. “Oh, I might get on it once-in-awhile, but that’s about it!”

Cenky did, however, make several minor changes for better driving comfort. “I used a wider eight-inch rear wheel. Then too, I changed the factory 4.10 ratio rear end to a 3.54 unit which makes the car much more streetable.” For a cleaner look, the small Road Runner decals-normally on the front quarters-and small chrome RR emblems on the rear quarters.

The car is coated in a flashy Tor Red color, a color which is carried to the exposed wheels which carry the small wheel covers, and in MOPAR style, also into the engine compartment. It’s highlighted with that broad black hood stripe which contains the hood scoop and is outlined by two narrow stripes. There is definitely a racecar look about this stunning machine.

The car also carries the Super Track Pack which included front disc brakes, heavy duty cooling package, special cooling fan, and the Dana rear end. The interior is done in black vinyl and sports bucket seats.

Cenky explained that even though the car is 36 years old, most people at car shows know exactly what it is. “I am always hearing from them that they owned one or knew somebody that did,” he explained. Mike’s long been a Chrysler fan, and it comes naturally. “My dad worked for the company for many years and all we ever had were Chrysler cars.” And over the years,

Mike has owned a number of vintage performance MOPARs, including a ‘67 440 R/T, a ‘70 Dodge Challenger 440 Six-Pack, a ‘72 340 Plymouth Duster, and a ‘70 Chrysler 300.

There is no mistaking the look of those Chrysler-built ‘60s and early muscle machines, and they are certainly a favorite of mine.”

And ours too!

Copyright © 2005-2006 Muscle car News Magazine Privacy Policy

High performance and low cost were Plymouth’s design goals for a brand-new model in 1968. The company believed that the time was right for a factory hot rod for the youth market, and its guess was right on the money. It would have the macho name of Road Runner.

It was also a very “B Body” budget-friendly machine which made it another very important reason for purchasing. The high cost ruled out many of the muscle cars of the era.

Less money meant less chrome on the body, along with fewer options. In fact, those that intended their Road Runner for the drag strip sometimes ordered the Runner with the small hub-cap-style wheel covers and even deleted the radio.

A member of the Belvedere line, the new model came with a stock 383cid engine capable of 335 horsepower. But that was just the beginning, the awesome 426 Hemi and 440 Six-Barrel engines would become available the following model year.

Of course, the Hemi has been a legend for many years, but that triple-carbed 440 engine had adopted a cult following of its own. A significant body change had been planned for the ‘70 model, but that would be put off until the 1971 model year.

The 1970 440 continued to be capable of 390 horsepower when equipped with the so-called Air Grabber induction system. That interesting system provided a solid connection between the hood scoops and engine once the hood was closed. The sides of the pop-up Air Grabber door were eye-catching with evil-looking shark’s teeth etched on the sides.

The front end was menacing-looking with the blackout grille containing twin headlights mounted in its ends. The aggressive bumper contained a pair of round parking lights on either side of the license plate.

When looking at the ‘70 Road Runner, and comparing it with the other garnish MOPAR muscle machines of the era, it appeared downright stripped. Oh, there was a stripe and 440+6 lettering on the hood, but that was about it. About the only eye catcher was the simulated rear-fender-scoop cut-out.

Some of the models did, however, have a dust trail that reached from near the front of the front fender and disappeared into that scoop.

The only sizable name identification externally was the “Road Runner” lettering contained in a stripe located on the rear end of the car, just above the tail lights. As far as engine identification, in addition to the aforementioned 440+6 designations on the hood, there was also a “440” in the rear of a hood bulge.

With that famous name, the company made the most of it with a special horn to sound like that famous cartoon bird. The horn made the Road Runner ‘Beep Beep’ sound which was unmistakable.

Mike Cenky of Huber Heights, Ohio owns this ‘70 Road Runner hardtop with such an six-barrel 440 engine installation. A retired phone company employee, Mike acquired the four-speed model in 1988 in “fair condition.” I redid the powertrain and suspension system which both needed attention.”

As he was restoring the Road Runner, Mike came across some interesting clues that provided firm indications of the car’s early history. “The engine had a scatter shield, there was an indication of once having a drag-style line-lock set-up, and the rear wheelwells had been trimmed for large racing slicks.

“I bet that it made many runs down the drag strip during those days.” He indicated, though, that type of activity is not in his plans for the orange beauty. “Oh, I might get on it once-in-awhile, but that’s about it!”

Cenky did, however, make several minor changes for better driving comfort. “I used a wider eight-inch rear wheel. Then too, I changed the factory 4.10 ratio rear end to a 3.54 unit which makes the car much more streetable.” For a cleaner look, the small Road Runner decals-normally on the front quarters-and small chrome RR emblems on the rear quarters.

The car is coated in a flashy Tor Red color, a color which is carried to the exposed wheels which carry the small wheel covers, and in MOPAR style, also into the engine compartment. It’s highlighted with that broad black hood stripe which contains the hood scoop and is outlined by two narrow stripes. There is definitely a racecar look about this stunning machine.

The car also carries the Super Track Pack which included front disc brakes, heavy duty cooling package, special cooling fan, and the Dana rear end. The interior is done in black vinyl and sports bucket seats.

Cenky explained that even though the car is 36 years old, most people at car shows know exactly what it is. “I am always hearing from them that they owned one or knew somebody that did,” he explained. Mike’s long been a Chrysler fan, and it comes naturally. “My dad worked for the company for many years and all we ever had were Chrysler cars.” And over the years,

Mike has owned a number of vintage performance MOPARs, including a ‘67 440 R/T, a ‘70 Dodge Challenger 440 Six-Pack, a ‘72 340 Plymouth Duster, and a ‘70 Chrysler 300.

There is no mistaking the look of those Chrysler-built ‘60s and early muscle machines, and they are certainly a favorite of mine.”

And ours too!

Copyright © 2005-2006 Muscle car News Magazine Privacy Policy

Today’s vehicles are equipped with an array of warning lights. Of course we’re all familiar will the seat belt warning and the door ajar indicator; however, with the automotive industry’s technological advancements there are a number of warning lights that can be quite alarming.

Following is a Question and Answer Guide on some of the more common Warning Light concerns. Note: due to the frequency of the Check Engine Warning Light, it has a section all its own. Visit www.repairtrust.com/check.html.

1) SRS Light (Supplemental Restraint System): the supplemental restraint system is your Airbag System. It may incorporate a variety of active, passive, and even pre-safe technology depending on the vehicle. Given that the SRS System is a safety system, it is well monitored with numerous sensors and automatic self-tests. The slightest malfunction in this system illuminates the SRS light.

“Can the vehicle be driven with an SRS Light on?” Yes, at the owner’s risk. There are thousands of vehicles on the road without SRS technology.

“Is the airbag going to blow up?” It’s unlikely. When the SRS Light is on the system is inoperative.

2) ABS Lights: The Anti-Lock Brake System Warning Light is another common occurrence in today’s vehicles. The ABS system helps to keep you from skidding out of control during braking by limiting your wheels from locking up/skidding.

The ABS system is often integrated with traction control and stability systems, all of which are designed to keep you safe during panic stops, wheel slippage, and handling.

“Do I need brakes?” You might, but that’s not why the ABS Light is on. The ABS Warning System does not monitor disc brake pad or disc brake rotor wear (see the Padlight Warning section below)

“Can the vehicle be driven?” Like the SRS system, the vehicle can be driven at the owner’s risk as there are many vehicles still on the market without the enhanced safety features of ABS.

“Why is my ABS light on? How do I reset the ABS Light?” These are simple questions with a multitude of answers depending on the vehicle in question. For a QUICK and FREE solution, follow the information and guidelines for Resetting Check Engine Light, and apply them to your ABS light.

3) Low Coolant Light: The Low Coolant Light will come on when the coolant drops below the coolant level sensor—generally one to two quarts. If this light is on, there are two primary possibilities. The most common is a coolant leak. The other is an electrical fault in the warning lamp circuit. Have them checked out.

“Can it be driven?” If there are no major leaks, the vehicle is not overheating (and does not start to overheat), and there is still some evidence of coolant in the overflow bottle, it can be driven. If you can see coolant leaking on the ground—tow it. When in doubt, always tow it!

4) Red Oil Light On: Stop driving immediately and shut the engine off! If a Red Oil Warning Light comes on PAY ATTENTION.

The best case scenario is that your engine oil is a little low. The second best case scenario is that there is an electrical issue with the Oil Level Warning System circuit.

First, follow your owners’ manual’s instructions to check your oil. If low, add as recommended—make sure you don’t see it dripping or pouring out on the ground, which would indicate a “major” engine leak.

If the oil is not low and your engine is making ticking, knocking, or unusual noises, Tow it!

If everything appears ok, and you’re a bit of a gambler, it may just be an issue with the warning lamp circuit. In this case, get your vehicle checked out at your earliest convenience.

The worst case scenario is internal engine damage.

Note: many of today’s vehicles have very sensitive and sophisticated Oil Level Warning Systems. You may be alerted of oil level too high, or oil level too low. Again, refer to your owners’ manual’s instructions.

So whether it’s a 1993 Ford Aerostar Check Oil Light, or a question of “Why does oil light flash in Saab automobile,” PAY ATTENTION!

5) Red Brake Warning Lights: Generally, Red Warning Lights mean DANGER. In the case of a Red Brake Warning Light, there may be a hydraulic brake fluid leak. If the brake pedal feels abnormal or spongy—don’t drive—Tow It!

“Can I drive it?” If the car is stopping ok, and you’re a gambler, go ahead. If the brake pedal feels different than usual, or if the vehicle is not stopping properly, don’t drive it!

Note: make sure that your emergency brake is not on or partially engaged, as this will illuminate a Red Brake Warning Light.

6) Yellow Brake Warning Light (Padlight): This is an early warning system for brake pad wear. Essentially, as your disc brake pads wear down, at a certain point a sensor is tripped to alert you that you will need brakes soon.

“Can I drive the vehicle, and for how long?” Yes, you can continue to drive. How long depends on your driving style. City drivers (city driving is generally harder on brakes due to the constant stop and go) will likely need their brakes addressed before someone who does primarily highway driving.

“Will I do more damage to the brakes?” Depending on how long you continue to drive you could conceivably wear your disc brake pads down to the metal backing plate, which could then damage your disc brake rotors and, in rare cases, the disc brake calipers. However, with many of today’s brake systems, the replacement of the disc brake rotors along with the disc brake pads is required or strongly recommended.

Important: It is better to have your brakes checked early to increase the possibility of saving money by not having to replace the rotors. However, many of today’s brake disc pads and rotors require replacement not due to wear, but due to rust and corrosion; thus rotor replacement is often necessary anyway. Brake calipers rarely need replacing during regular brake work.

7) Air Suspension Lights (Airmatic, Air Ride, Hydraulic Suspensions): Suspension Warning Lights illuminate when the suspension’s monitoring system has detected a fault. Often there is a leak—either air or hydraulic fluid.

“Can I drive it?” Sometimes. But if the suspension is lower than usual, and/or the vehicle just doesn’t feel right—Tow It! Extensive damage could result if the suspension drops too low while driving.

Note: air suspension system repairs are best left to the best, state-of-the-art service center you can find, preferably a dealership.

Tire Pressure Warning Light: This recent technological development causes quite a bit of confusion. Put simply, if your tire is getting low on air, your car lets you know via sensors mounted in various places depending on the model.

“What is the low tire pressure warning light reset procedure?” Sometimes the reset procedure is as simple as pressing a button. Other times one has to set the tire pressures, recalibrate the on-board computer, genuflect and cross two fingers. Check your owners’ manual or call a specialist or dealer.

Note: Local shops and franchises (for the most part) lack familiarity with Tire Pressure Monitoring Systems given that this is a fairly recent technological development. You can refer to How to Reset Check Engine Light, and follow the tips, and suggestions for getting it reset.

9) Emission Warning Light: This light is similar to the Check Engine Light. Many European models such as Volvos have this type of Warning System. It’s essentially letting you know that an emissions component has failed or detected a fault. Follow the Check Engine Light information and tips to address this particular warning light.

Note: make sure you take it to a shop equipped to handle emissions work.

10) Resetting Oil Lights (Oil Change Warning Lamps): Whether it’s a Toyota Oil Light Procedure, an Oil Change Warning Light Reset 2005 GMC Envoy, or the process to Reset 1999 M3 Oil Service Light, all require a specific course of action.

Most owners’ manuals have this information. You should find it under maintenance or oil service. You can also call your local mechanic, who resets oil service lights everyday on a variety of models. A dealership will certainly have the information; however, finding someone in a dealership who can translate it effectively may be difficult.

If the above fails, see the process for Resetting Check Engine Light.

Note: several European models require special tools to reset the oil service light, thus it’s best to call or visit a specialist or dealer.

Note: This information is not a substitute for your vehicle’s owners’ manual. It is meant to be a general guide. Always refer to manufacturer vehicle-specific guidelines.

Note: PAY ATTENTION to how you are billed for any of the above warning concerns. Because of their technical nature they can get “unnecessarily” very pricy, quickly.

If you would like a car that looks almost ordinary, but that is as fast as many supercars, buy the BMW M5. Yes, on the outside, this is an ordinary European sedan – but under the hood is a 500 bhp V-10 engine that you might imagine came from a sports-racing car! Will it do 180 mph? No, it could, but it won’t because BMW uses a limiter to prevent you going faster than 155 mph on all its hot cars. Actually, BMW says it will do over 190 mph without the limiter in operation.

The BMW M5 is powered by a very advanced 5.0 liter V-10 engine, ad fits neatly into the standard engine compartment. This is a very special engine, being built in small numbers and at high cost by BMW’s M Center. It’s a 90-degree V-10, which means that it won’t be quite as smooth as some – in theory, at any rate.

ADVANCED 500 BHP V10 ENGINE

Maximum power is 500 bhp at 7,700 rpm – a real screamer this – while the maximum torque of 380 lb ft is produced at 6,100 rpm. Boy, you’re really going to keep this revving if you want to use all that power. Still, when it’s just mooching along at 4,000 rpm, this amazing unit produces quite a chunk of power.

Needless to say, it has all the features you’d expect in a supercar engine, such as a stiff aluminum block, twin overhead camshafts per bank of cylinders and and narrow 4-valve heads. BMW uses its variable valve timing system, and drives the inlet camshafts on each bank by chain, with a gear drive to the exhaust camshaft, a system pioneered by Toyota to save space.

SEVEN-SPEED SEQUENTIAL GEARBOX

Coupled to this marvel of a power plant, which would seem more at home in a slinky coupe, is a seven-speed sequential gearbox. This is the latest development of the BMW sporty semi-automatic. BMW claims it’s the first seven-speed box of its type. Mercedes-Benz has a seven-speed automatic, and Audi has a CVT with seven stages, but these are not quite the same.

Why all these seven-speed boxes? Well, for maximum acceleration, and so that you have the right gear coming out of any corner, the more gears the better. When you’ve got that many gears, the shift pattern gets pretty complicated with a manual box, so they’re going for either automatics or semi-automatics.

To go with the powerful power train are bigger brakes than standard, wider wheels and tires, and stiffer suspension. The handling is surprisingly good for such an ordinary-looking car.

HOT PERFORMER, QUIET LOOKS

The result of putting this engine in the BMW 5 Series is very hot acceleration for such a big car: 0-60 in 4.7 seconds, and 0-125 mph in 15.6 seconds.

Will people pay over $100,000 or so for a 500 bhp sedan? You bet they will. There are a lot of people out there that want supercar performance, but don’t’ want to have to struggle to get in and out of the car. They also want to travel with plenty of luggage, and have room in the trunk for two sets of golf clubs – and more.

And they’ll get a real kick from burning off cheeky guys in sports cars who get in the way. Cars that are much faster than they look, which we used to call Q cars, have quite a market. What’s it like to drive? Well, at normal speeds, the car is very quiet, and you would not know how power you had. In fact, there is a switch on the steering wheel which limits power to 400 bhp. To get the full 500 bhp, you need to press that.

So, most of the time you’ll drive with 400 bhp, and the problem is that the engine does not have a lot of power until you get to 5,000 rpm, an the power keeps coming in until you get to 8,000 rpm. You need deserted roads to use that power, but the car works pretty well in traffic and normal commuting. Not quite so good in everyday use is the gearbox. It does not have a torque converter, so it can be quite jerky when you shift up.

Lifts are used to raise a vehicle on a stable platform, allowing automotive mechanics unrestricted access to inspect and repair the underbelly, transmission and wheels of the vehicle. Multiple vehicle lifts are standard equipment in most auto repair shops. In addition, some automobile enthusiasts install lifts in their homes for vehicle storage.

Prior to 1920, only service pits were available for repairing and doing preventive maintenance on the undersides of vehicles. The hydraulic auto lift was invented in the 1920’s to reduce the time and equipment needed to hoist vehicles off the ground. Depending on the design used, .today’s vehicle lifts can raise up to 50,000 pounds and can cost between $9,000 and $45,000. Installation not included.

In the beginning, there were no industry standards and vehicle lifts varied in design and construction. After World War II, there were only fifteen auto lift manufacturers in the United States. They recognized the need to develop standards to guide the industry. In 1947, the U.S. government issued its first set of standards. The Occupational Safety and Health Administration developed its own regulations in 1974.

Today, there are three major manufacturers of heavy lifts: Mohawk Resources Ltd. of Amsterdam, NY; Advantage Lift Systems based in San Diego, CA; and Rotary Lift in Madison, IN. Electric controls for lifts are standard, and lift features vary according to price and model. They vary depending on where they make contact with the vehicle, usually the axles, frame or wheels. They include single-, two-, four-post, and scissors lifts. The single- and two-post lifts are ideal for small trucks and cars. The four-post auto lift is used for most commercial and transit vehicles. The scissors lift saves space by having the posts in the middle of the lift, operating like an open pair of scissors.

Over the years, the structure of the automobile body has changed. Vehicles previously built onto underbody frames are now being constructed into frameless or unibody styles. Lifts have evolved to better handle the structure of newer vehicles. Rotary, for example, has developed the three stage lift. It has three telescoping sections, giving it a greater range of extension and retraction than other lifts. As a result, it can reach a broader range of vehicle pick-up points. It has become the preferred lift of many vehicle manufacturers, including Honda, Volkswagen and Audi.

Despite changes in the design of lifts over the years, many injuries and accidents occur annually. This is usually due to human error rather than any flaw in the lift design. The most simple things often lead to disaster. Auto mechanics sometimes fail to keep the lift area free of debris, grease/oil and obstructions. Not paying close attention when working around the lifts or allowing untrained individuals to use them are two more potential problems. Some forget to wear the right safety gear, including goggles, a hard hat, and steel toed boots.

Proper use and maintenance of the equipment is essential. Blocking or overriding the controls is dangerous. The manufacturer’s rated capacity is shown on the nameplate affixed to lift. Despite this, some mechanics use the lift to hoist vehicles that exceed the weight limit.

An ounce of prevention is better than a pound of cure. Mistakes made before the vehicle is lifted are accidents waiting to happen. The lift arms must be properly positioned before the vehicle is raised. If the center of gravity of the car is not on the center of the lift, cars may tip off. With some vehicles, removing or installing items may cause a critical shift in the vehicle’s center of gravity and result in instability. Mechanics should always refer to the lift manufacturer’s recommendations. If there is not ample overhead clearance space, the vehicle may be crushed. Mistakes also occur when the transmission is not in neutral, doors are not securely closed or the ignition is not turned off. Some repairmen fail to lock the lift into place before going under it. Others raise the car while someone is inside the vehicle.

Numerous accidents occur during the lifting process. The vehicle should be loaded on a lift carefully. Mechanics should ensure that the lift supports are in contact with the manufacturer’s recommended lifting points. When a secure contact is made, the lift can be raised to the desired working height. If work will be done under the vehicle, the lift should be raised high enough for its locking device to be engaged.

Before lowering a lift, the mechanic should ensure that everything is removed from under the vehicle. Locking devices should be disengaged before the lift is lowered.

Insurance—it’s everywhere. One can insure just about anything. Are tires an investment one needs to insure? Tire insurance, also called a road hazard policy, road hazard warranty, or tire reimbursement plan, is a rapidly growing industry in the automotive world.

Tire warranty plans pay in full or in part for the replacement or repair of damaged tires and/or rims from “road hazards.” Road hazards are defined as pot holes, debris, nails, wood, and other hazards found in the road. Curbs, sidewalks, and stone walls are not road hazards. This is an important distinction to consider when deciding if tire insurance is right for you (discussed further ahead).

Tire plans last for a specific period of time and tire wear tread-depth. Some plans last 2-3 years. Others can last 5 years or 60,000 miles. Several plans come with fixed amounts of coverage: $500 per year up to 4 years. Many contracts require three years of law school to comprehend. In terms of tread depth, a tire is usually considered worn out (and thus the plan null and void) at 2/32 to 3/32 of an inch.

Another important distinction is in the type of plan.

Tire reimbursement plans are just what they say. You, the plan holder, will be reimbursed after the claims process is finalized—usually 2-8 weeks. There is an out-of-pocket expense. These plans are often sold by new car dealerships. The prices can range from $300 to $600 dollars.

Road hazard policies operate similarly to reimbursement plans. However, some tire insurance providers, in partnership with the repair facility, may have a direct-pay relationship. Thus, there would be no out-of-pocket expense, except for applicable deductibles, and items not covered in part or in full. These plans are primarily sold by tire dealers and repairshops. The prices range from $10 to $30 per tire. They also can be based on a percentage of the cost of the tire: usually 12% to 15%.

Both types of plans have a number of variables, requiring a magnifying glass to read the fine print. Also, many are pro-rated warranties, covering only a percentage of the cost of the tire based on its wear.

Claims and Coverage: Depending on the plan, claims are initiated by the repair shop. The process is fairly smooth, although there can be a significant delay from the provider for authorization. This delay may be an hour or an entire weekend. This means that you’ll have to “ok” the tire replacement, and then hope it’s authorized for the full amount, or drive on your spare.

Some plans offer national coverage either among their service facilities or from other repair centers. Claims procedures will vary. Others only provide local coverage, or coverage at the selling facility.

Limitations: Tire insurance does not mean that everything is covered. Pro-rated warranties are based on the wear and tear of the tire. You may get 75%, 50%, or only 10% coverage depending on the tread-depth. You’ll pay the remainder. While there are plans that offer full coverage, even these have limitations, or they may conflict with a repair shop’s policies.

For example, many plans allow for a maximum of $30 to mount and balance one tire, and a maximum of $15 to repair a tire. However, sport tires often have significantly higher mounting and balancing fees—upwards of $50 per tire—and tire repair prices can exceed $90. There are also discrepancies on the tire and rim prices themselves, which in the end, may have to be supplemented by the service customer.

Although there usually is not an issue with the latter given the competitive market, the service center’s price mark up may be unacceptable to the plan provider. In this case, the service center needs to lower the price or you, the service customer, need to pay the difference—or go somewhere else. This does happen!

Rim Prices and Repairs: Rim replacement is becoming less frequent. With the high cost of aluminum wheels and sport wheel packages, tire insurers have opted to have them repaired. Repair will only be done if the rim does not hold air. What this means is that even if the rim is warped—enough to cause a vibration and even premature tire wear—they won’t replace it. Rather, they will send it out to be straightened and repaired.

Rims are replaced only if the damage is so extensive that the new tire, when mounted on the rim, won’t hold air. However, even in this case, especially if it’s an expensive sport wheel, they may still attempt to repair it.

Repairing rims is a bad option. While some rim repair is acceptable, badly warped or damaged rims will in no way ever be the same.

Alignments: If a car hits a road hazard hard enough, such as a pot hole, it’s wise to have the alignment checked. Road hazard policies and tire reimbursement plans do not cover alignments. The service customer will have to pay for this procedure.

Road Hazard Protection Positives: Some plans include tire rotations, wheel balancing, and nationwide coverage.

Myths:

1) “Can I pop all 4 tires and get a new set of tires?”

You can try. But this type of claim will trigger a number of red flags with the insurer. The policy holder will likely send out adjusters and/or require photographs. You will also have a difficult time explaining how a “road hazard” caused all 4 tire pop.

2) “New tires come with a road hazard warranty.”

New tires do come with a warranty by the tire manufacturer. However, it only covers defects in workmanship. New tire warranties do not cover punctures or damages from external sources. This is why “road hazard” protection is being pushed.

New tires are rarely defective. If there is a problem, it’s usually noticed when balancing the tire. Or, there is a drivability concern such as vibration or noise. If there’s a defect it’s generally caught right away, and the tire swapped out.

3) “It’s so cheap; it’s a no-brainer, right?”

Actually, the experts don’t agree with this statement.

The Economics of Tire Warranties: An article from the Washington Post by Terence O’Hara explains the economics of extended warranties and purchase protection plans in general. It is quite fitting for road hazard warranties. He writes:

“The decision to buy an extended warranty…defies the recommendations of economists, consumer advocates and product quality experts, who all warn that the plans rarely benefit consumers and are nearly always a waste of money.

‘[Extended warranties or purchase protection plans] make no rational sense,’ Harvard economist David Cutler said. ‘The implied probability [of having an issue with the product] has to be substantially greater than the risk that you can’t afford to fix it or replace it. If you’re buying a $400 item, for the overwhelming number of consumers that level of spending is not a risk you need to insure under any circumstances.’”

In short, road hazard warranties are a waste of money. Don’t insure that which you can afford to replace.

Numbers Game and Slim Chances: Like all insurance, tire insurance plans are a numbers game. However, this is a game you have a 98% chance of losing. Insider statistics show that the percentage of claims paid out by providers is as low a 2%.

Curbs: Another interesting note is that a lot of tire damage is caused by curbs. Curb damage is not covered under most road hazard policies. High granite curbs with sharp edges slice through tens of thousands of tires per year.

You Won’t Notice: Many people don’t even notice tire damage. Other than to see if the tires are holding air, who “really” looks at tires? Tires are subject to a whole host of external influences which cause bubbles, slices and gouges.

Despite the potential dangers of damaged tires, the damage very often does not translate into any noticeable drivability issue. The point is that if you don’t notice any tire damage you can’t benefit from the coverage.

Research Shows: Those raving about the benefits of a road hazard policy are the actual folks in the industry who stand to benefit from the sale. They’ll argue that it’s so cheap—only $10 to $20 per tire. Even so, for four tires, that’s $80 based on the “possibility,” the “chance,” of damaging a tire that meets the repair/replacement requirement protocols.

Auto Insurance: If a rim and tire has incurred significant damage, it’s quite likely that other problems have resulted as well. The first is that the vehicle may have been jarred out of alignment. Secondly, hub bearings, front end components: tie rods, spindles, ball joints, and a variety of other components may have sustained damage. In this case, auto insurance, which you are already paying for, will pay for everything—brand new.

Free Road Hazard Warranties: Many tires come with road hazard warranties FREE. In other words, in an effort to secure retailers, many tire distributors provide service centers FREE road hazard insurance. Some shops pass this on to their tire customers, others sell them. Ask if the tire “comes” with a road hazard protection policy. If not, request that one be provided at no additional charge. It’s worth a shot.

Also, some car manufacturers provide road hazard warranties FREE of charge for 12 months or 12,000 miles. If you’re buying a new car or even used, ask that the dealer provide a complimentary road hazard policy (after all the wheeling and dealing is done, of course), and just before you commit.

“What’s the best road hazard policy?” Money in “your” bank account.