What is ironic is that the seat covers are probably the most overlooked things in a person’s car. However, there is a lot of importance put on the looks of the seats. They are just as an important part of the car as anything else. They protect your seat from harmful elements and keep them clean from dirt. Also, a proper seat cover will never allow your seat to lose its shape.

There are many companies that will sell you designed seat covers. Some are going to be made of different fabrics such as silk and cotton in order to not irritate the skin. For a baby seat cover there is a level of protection it gives the baby during the time the car is in motion. There is also the aspect that it will maintain its cleanliness, because you can detach it and wash it in your washing machine.

There are several materials used for seat covers:

For a soft touch, poly-cotton is the most commonly utilized fabric for automobile seat coverings. It is soft to the human touch, as well as it also providing constant protection to your seats.

Sheepskin seat covers are the next most common to poly-cotton covers. It is known to be thermostatic, as well as being warm when it is cold, and cool when it is hot.

UV Protected Sheets are another solid and dependable choice of material which is used for making Velour seat covers. They are also very soft to the touch, like the poly-cotton covers. These types of seat covers will protect your seats from wearing out.

There are also several different types of seat covers. The first type being Universal auto seat covers. These types of covers are a universal fit, which means they will fit to almost every kind of car seat, including high-back bucket seats, as well as low-back seats.

The other type of seat covers are the custom auto seat covers. These are the tailor made auto seat covers that are tailor made especially for your car. They can be made to the measured size of each specified car seat. While creating custom covers, every little detail of the car seat is noticed and pondered over. This fitting is considered to be perfect, as it is made exactly to fulfil the particular requirements of your car.

Purchasing a new car is a major investment. Aside from buying a new house, it may be the biggest purchase you will ever make in your entire life. For this reason, you should be certain that you are dealing with a trustworthy maryland hyundai car dealer before deciding to part with your hard-earned cash.

We have all heard the horror stories about those shady car dealers who talk fast and separate a sucker from his money even faster. The good news is that they are the minority and that most car dealers are dependable and honest. Here are a few tips to help you find a trustworthy hyundai car dealership in maryland

(1) Do your homework

Before you start talking to car dealers, try to find out what they are all about. Research online and check their track record, the quality of their after-sales service and other information that will shed light on their reputation and trustworthiness.

At the same time, try to get a firm grasp of the kinds of hyundai that you may want given your particular tastes and budget. This way, when you start speaking to maryland hyundai car dealers, you can tell if their sales pitch about the car you want is accurate or just a lot of hogwash. Bear in mind, though, that just because a salesperson quotes you a price that is higher than what youve seen online, it doesnt mean hes a crook. Trying to make a decent profit is just part of their job.

(2) Trust Your Instincts

Sometimes you will come across a salesperson that you simply dont trust or are not comfortable with for no apparent reason. Those bad vibes mean something. Perhaps your subconscious has spotted something out of place about this person and is sending you a signal. In this instance, it would be better to ask for someone else.

(3) Use your head, not your heart

Oftentimes, the biggest reason why consumers fall for fast-talking, sleazy salespersons is that they make their purchasing decisions based on feelings and emotions rather than rational thought.

There is a lot of psychology that goes into buying a car. We may be enamored with the way it looks, the feel of the steering wheel in our hands, the way the seats press against our body or the feeling that a certain car is perfect for our personality. It just feels right. When you feel this way about a new car, think hard. Otherwise, it will be easy for a smart car dealer to persuade you into making that purchase.

(4) Be careful during negotiations

Once you enter the negotiation phase, be very careful since this is where most of the dirty tricks begin. For instance, keep your wits about you when a salesman offers you a car that is, say, $1,000 cheaper than their competitors because there may be some additional hidden charges that you will have to pay such as a documentation fee or handling charge or when your salesman forgets to charge you for sports rims. This is an old ploy. Sometimes you just have to stand up, say no thanks and look for another maryland hyundai car dealer.

(5) Do a full inspection

Finally, dont forget to make a full inspection of your new hyundai before leaving the lot. Check for scratches, flaws or other imperfections. The repair of these items should be covered in your deal with the car dealership. It pays to make sure.

Weight is one of the most important issues to consider when building a fast car for road or track. Putting a car on a serious diet is pretty much free horsepower, as any attempt to lighten a car improves the power to weight ratio, this seriously improves acceleration.

The gains on a lightening a car are huge and not just limited to gains in acceleration either. Once you have lightened a fast car you will find the car performs better in the corners and under braking, parts such as brakes and tires will last longer on the car also.

The potential gains are huge but it must be done correctly, you would not want to lighten a rear wheel drive car too much on the rear or you may find traction a problem particularly with a high power output.

The truth is your fast car could be made a great deal faster cheaply and easily just by shaving a few pounds off the body.

How do we remove weight from the fast car?

This bit is as easy as you want it to be, but as with most forms of car modification it depends on how far you want to go. I know a guy who races a BMW and he decided to go all out on weight saving, he even scraped every bit of under-seal from the floors of the car, extreme perhaps but he managed to remove nearly 2 stone of under-seal, not a bad effort.

The obvious place to start saving weight on your fast car is by removing the interior, and anything else that you do not need, the front seats can be replaced with light weight racing items, the unused wiring removed, carpets and sound deadening, pretty much all of the unnecessary parts, my car has just a driver seat and a cage with much of the unnecessary wiring removed. This makes for a car with very impressive performance.

Many other components can be replaced with lighter parts, gear box casings, axle covers etc. It is worth noting that a stainless steel exhaust is lighter than the same in mild steel, so this constitutes a worthwhile investment.

It is also important to reduce the unsprung weight on the car also, by this I mean wheels, brakes and anything else before the suspension mounts, this provides a very good increase in the handling of the car.

Modern Formula One cars are mid-engined open cockpit, open wheel single-seaters. The chassis is made largely of carbon fibre composites, rendering it light but extremely stiff and strong. The whole car, including engine, fluids and driver weighs only 605 kg. In fact this is the minimum weight set by the regulations – the cars are so light that they often have to be ballasted up to this minimum weight.

The cornering speed of Formula One cars is largely determined by the aerodynamic downforce that they generate, which pushes the car down onto the track. This is provided by ‘wings’ mounted at the front and rear of the vehicle, and by ground effect created by the movement of air under the flat bottom of the car.

A significant difference in the design of the latest breeds of F1 cars is that they make far greater use of vortex “lift,” or in this case, downforce. Since a vortex is a rotating fluid that creates a low pressure zone at its center, creating vortices lowers the overall local pressure of the air.

Since low pressure is what is desired under the car, allowing normal atmospheric pressure to press the car down from the top, by creating vortices, downforce can be augmented while still staying within the rules.

The aerodynamic design of the cars is very heavily constrained to limit performance and the current generation of cars sport a large number of small winglets, “barge boards” and turning vanes designed to closely control the flow of the air over, under and around the car. The “barge boards” in particular are designed, shaped, configured, adjusted and positioned not to create downforce directly, as with a conventional wing or underbody venturi. They are designed so that air spillage from their edges will create these vortices.

The other major factor controlling the cornering speed of the cars is the design of the tyres. Tyres in Formula One are not ’slicks’ (tyres with no tread pattern) as in most other circuit racing series. Each tyre has four large circumferential grooves on its surface designed to further limit the cornering speed of the cars. Suspension is double wishbone or multilink all round with pushrod operated springs and dampers on the chassis. Carbon-Carbon disc brakes are used for reduced weight and increased frictional performance. These provide a very high level of braking performance and are usually the element which provokes the greatest reaction from drivers new to the formula.

Engines are mandated as 2.4 litre normally aspirated V8s, with many other constraints on their design and the materials that may be used. The 2006 generation of engines rev close to 20,000 rpm and produce up to 740 bhp (552 kW).[10] The previous generation of 3-litre V10 engines are also allowed, albeit with their revs limited and with an air restrictor to limit performance.

Engines run on unleaded fuel closely resembling publicly available petrol. The oil which lubricates and protects the engine from overheating is very similar in viscosity to water. For 2007 the V8 engines will be restricted to 19,000 rpm with limited development areas allowed, following the engine specification freeze from the end of 2006. As outright speed and power are effectively being capped it is widely believed that teams will work on improving reliability, and the torque range of the engine to improve driveability.

A wide variety of technologies – including active suspension, ground effect aerodynamics and turbochargers – are banned under the current regulations. Despite this the 2006 generation of cars can reach speeds of up to 350 km/h (around 220 mph) at some circuits (Monza).A Honda Formula One car, running with minimum downforce on a runway in the Mojave desert achieved a top speed of 415 km/h (258 mph) in 2006. According to Honda, the car fully met the FIA Formula One regulations.

Even with the limitations on aerodynamics, at 160 km/h, aerodynamically generated downforce is equal to the weight of the car and the often repeated claim that Formula One cars are capable of ‘driving on the ceiling’ remains true in principle, although it has never been put to the test. At full speed downforce of 2.5 times the car’s weight can be achieved.

The downforce means that the cars can achieve a lateral force of around four and a half times the force of gravity (4.5 g) in cornering - a high-performance road car might achieve around 1 g. Consequently in corners the driver’s head is pulled sideways with a force equivalent to 25 kilograms. Such high lateral forces are enough to make breathing difficult and the drivers need supreme concentration to maintain their focus for the 1 to 2 hours that it takes to cover 305 kilometres.

The use of car seat covers is one of the best ways to keep your vehicle’s interior in good condition. Car seat covers are an excellent investment if you want to retain the value of your vehicle and keep it looking clean and tidy.

Car seat covers have many benefits and are practical as well as nice to look at. No more sticking or burning on your hot vinyl seats, or the fear of unsightly stains appearing on your upholstery. Besides protecting your car’s seats from the sun and general wear and tear, you can wash them in the washing machine when they become dirty.

Car seat covers are available in a wide range of styles and fabrics, from warm and woolly to cool and comfy. Styles are available for bucket seats, as well as the back seat of your car or SUV. It is not difficult to find car seat covers which will suit all of your needs.

If you have kids who create a mess in your car, there are novelty car seat covers available in many colorful designs. For newborn babies, baby car seat covers are almost a necessity. Baby car seat covers are designed to fit over the original manufacturer’s cover, providing even more support for your baby.

If you take your pet with you in your car, there are dog car seat covers which protect your car seats from dog-related problems. A shedding pet will change the appearance of your car seats forever, so using seat covers in this situation would be a must.

Car seat covers come in two main types: Universal, and Custom.

Universal car seat covers: These come in one standard size to fit most vehicle makes and models. The disadvantage of these is that they do not always provide a perfect fit.

Custom car seat covers: The great thing about custom car seat covers is that they are designed to fit every popular model of car, van or truck. These provide a much better fit, as they are designed specifically for that particular vehicle.

There are several materials used for car seat covers. These are poly cotton, and sheepskin.

Poly cotton is the most common fabric used for car seat covers. It is soft to the touch, and is also very durable.

Sheepskin car seat covers are also very common next to poly cotton. Sheepskin car seat covers are known to reduce stress, as they provide warmth and massage your back while you drive. They are also cool during hot weather. Sheepskin car seat covers can also be machine washed.

Car seat covers are an excellent way to protect your expensive car seats, or make old seats look like new. Having a set of unique car seat covers is a great way to add some personal touch to the interior of your vehicle, as well as a cost effective method to extend the life of your car’s seats. Car seat covers are a great relief if you are worried about preserving the overall look of your vehicle.

Yes, I’m a pretty good driver. In fact I grew up in a town where cars—hot rods and trucks and the like—were respected, if not revered. I had undergone my training in a driver education program at a high school that had the knowledge of wintry weather and expected the need for definite driving skills that surpassed those persons living in sunny states.. perhaps for instance driving on ice, snow, sleet etc.

In spite of being quick and hyper-alert, though I love to drive a good fast car, in all my driving years (which equals about thirty-one years); I have only had three traffic violations: the first one was when I was 16 years I had got a speeding ticket, trying to beat curfew; the second one for a no seat belt ticket, when I was pulled over because a headlamp was out; and got a red light violation one night when I much aware but wanted to get home after working continuously all day and all night at a college an hour and a half away from where I lived.

But alas last week, having just relocated to a new town only recently- in the last few months- I got pulled over yet again for speeding. For sure, I was a bit startled, personally I feel I was not speeding, but was doing 44 in a part of town where, I have since studied, the signs go from 35 to 25 to 35 to 25 (in one spot TWO SIGNS, one for 35 AND one for 25 are together?????)…almost like a speed trap set-up, if you ask me.

To my good luck, the officer was not only a cool chap, but also kind and jovial. One of the first things he said, after enquiring with me when was the last time I got a speeding ticket (which was 30 years ago), was that I could go to traffic school online!

Sure, I heard a couple of my friends talking over the last few years about traffic school online, and just about everything like how you can keep adding points to your driver record (points increasing means, evidently, insurance rates increasing), as well as learned of friends who had done traffic school online to ease the cost of the traffic ticket. (For instance, a red light violation, once a whopping $107 in my area, is now nearly $400!). Hence I now get to experience first hand the traffic school online adventure. No sooner I started to research I discovered that, logically, one must use an accredited traffic school online- one that is genuine and will issue you the documentation you need to prove to the courts you have paid your penalty.

Another thing I found out about traffic school online are they can be manageable, thus allowing you to study at your own pace or during at times when you are available; besides traffic school online is cheap; and the fact that traffic school online, if you search long enough, will surely appeal to your particular learning style—offering you games if you are a go-getter, or maybe text only if you prefer verbal instruction, as well as cartoons and short films if you are a keen visual learner.

Here’s hoping that I manage to complete my traffic school online in the next few days, and will either go with comedy or cartoons and games. They not only look promising but hopefully will not humiliate me too much with road rules I learned 31 years ago and ace on every DMV test, etc., despite the fact that once every decade “forget”. What a reminder!

High performance and low cost were Plymouth’s design goals for a brand-new model in 1968. The company believed that the time was right for a factory hot rod for the youth market, and its guess was right on the money. It would have the macho name of Road Runner.

It was also a very “B Body” budget-friendly machine which made it another very important reason for purchasing. The high cost ruled out many of the muscle cars of the era.

Less money meant less chrome on the body, along with fewer options. In fact, those that intended their Road Runner for the drag strip sometimes ordered the Runner with the small hub-cap-style wheel covers and even deleted the radio.

A member of the Belvedere line, the new model came with a stock 383cid engine capable of 335 horsepower. But that was just the beginning, the awesome 426 Hemi and 440 Six-Barrel engines would become available the following model year.

Of course, the Hemi has been a legend for many years, but that triple-carbed 440 engine had adopted a cult following of its own. A significant body change had been planned for the ‘70 model, but that would be put off until the 1971 model year.

The 1970 440 continued to be capable of 390 horsepower when equipped with the so-called Air Grabber induction system. That interesting system provided a solid connection between the hood scoops and engine once the hood was closed. The sides of the pop-up Air Grabber door were eye-catching with evil-looking shark’s teeth etched on the sides.

The front end was menacing-looking with the blackout grille containing twin headlights mounted in its ends. The aggressive bumper contained a pair of round parking lights on either side of the license plate.

When looking at the ‘70 Road Runner, and comparing it with the other garnish MOPAR muscle machines of the era, it appeared downright stripped. Oh, there was a stripe and 440+6 lettering on the hood, but that was about it. About the only eye catcher was the simulated rear-fender-scoop cut-out.

Some of the models did, however, have a dust trail that reached from near the front of the front fender and disappeared into that scoop.

The only sizable name identification externally was the “Road Runner” lettering contained in a stripe located on the rear end of the car, just above the tail lights. As far as engine identification, in addition to the aforementioned 440+6 designations on the hood, there was also a “440” in the rear of a hood bulge.

With that famous name, the company made the most of it with a special horn to sound like that famous cartoon bird. The horn made the Road Runner ‘Beep Beep’ sound which was unmistakable.

Mike Cenky of Huber Heights, Ohio owns this ‘70 Road Runner hardtop with such an six-barrel 440 engine installation. A retired phone company employee, Mike acquired the four-speed model in 1988 in “fair condition.” I redid the powertrain and suspension system which both needed attention.”

As he was restoring the Road Runner, Mike came across some interesting clues that provided firm indications of the car’s early history. “The engine had a scatter shield, there was an indication of once having a drag-style line-lock set-up, and the rear wheelwells had been trimmed for large racing slicks.

“I bet that it made many runs down the drag strip during those days.” He indicated, though, that type of activity is not in his plans for the orange beauty. “Oh, I might get on it once-in-awhile, but that’s about it!”

Cenky did, however, make several minor changes for better driving comfort. “I used a wider eight-inch rear wheel. Then too, I changed the factory 4.10 ratio rear end to a 3.54 unit which makes the car much more streetable.” For a cleaner look, the small Road Runner decals-normally on the front quarters-and small chrome RR emblems on the rear quarters.

The car is coated in a flashy Tor Red color, a color which is carried to the exposed wheels which carry the small wheel covers, and in MOPAR style, also into the engine compartment. It’s highlighted with that broad black hood stripe which contains the hood scoop and is outlined by two narrow stripes. There is definitely a racecar look about this stunning machine.

The car also carries the Super Track Pack which included front disc brakes, heavy duty cooling package, special cooling fan, and the Dana rear end. The interior is done in black vinyl and sports bucket seats.

Cenky explained that even though the car is 36 years old, most people at car shows know exactly what it is. “I am always hearing from them that they owned one or knew somebody that did,” he explained. Mike’s long been a Chrysler fan, and it comes naturally. “My dad worked for the company for many years and all we ever had were Chrysler cars.” And over the years,

Mike has owned a number of vintage performance MOPARs, including a ‘67 440 R/T, a ‘70 Dodge Challenger 440 Six-Pack, a ‘72 340 Plymouth Duster, and a ‘70 Chrysler 300.

There is no mistaking the look of those Chrysler-built ‘60s and early muscle machines, and they are certainly a favorite of mine.”

And ours too!

Copyright © 2005-2006 Muscle car News Magazine Privacy Policy

High performance and low cost were Plymouth’s design goals for a brand-new model in 1968. The company believed that the time was right for a factory hot rod for the youth market, and its guess was right on the money. It would have the macho name of Road Runner.

It was also a very “B Body” budget-friendly machine which made it another very important reason for purchasing. The high cost ruled out many of the muscle cars of the era.

Less money meant less chrome on the body, along with fewer options. In fact, those that intended their Road Runner for the drag strip sometimes ordered the Runner with the small hub-cap-style wheel covers and even deleted the radio.

A member of the Belvedere line, the new model came with a stock 383cid engine capable of 335 horsepower. But that was just the beginning, the awesome 426 Hemi and 440 Six-Barrel engines would become available the following model year.

Of course, the Hemi has been a legend for many years, but that triple-carbed 440 engine had adopted a cult following of its own. A significant body change had been planned for the ‘70 model, but that would be put off until the 1971 model year.

The 1970 440 continued to be capable of 390 horsepower when equipped with the so-called Air Grabber induction system. That interesting system provided a solid connection between the hood scoops and engine once the hood was closed. The sides of the pop-up Air Grabber door were eye-catching with evil-looking shark’s teeth etched on the sides.

The front end was menacing-looking with the blackout grille containing twin headlights mounted in its ends. The aggressive bumper contained a pair of round parking lights on either side of the license plate.

When looking at the ‘70 Road Runner, and comparing it with the other garnish MOPAR muscle machines of the era, it appeared downright stripped. Oh, there was a stripe and 440+6 lettering on the hood, but that was about it. About the only eye catcher was the simulated rear-fender-scoop cut-out.

Some of the models did, however, have a dust trail that reached from near the front of the front fender and disappeared into that scoop.

The only sizable name identification externally was the “Road Runner” lettering contained in a stripe located on the rear end of the car, just above the tail lights. As far as engine identification, in addition to the aforementioned 440+6 designations on the hood, there was also a “440” in the rear of a hood bulge.

With that famous name, the company made the most of it with a special horn to sound like that famous cartoon bird. The horn made the Road Runner ‘Beep Beep’ sound which was unmistakable.

Mike Cenky of Huber Heights, Ohio owns this ‘70 Road Runner hardtop with such an six-barrel 440 engine installation. A retired phone company employee, Mike acquired the four-speed model in 1988 in “fair condition.” I redid the powertrain and suspension system which both needed attention.”

As he was restoring the Road Runner, Mike came across some interesting clues that provided firm indications of the car’s early history. “The engine had a scatter shield, there was an indication of once having a drag-style line-lock set-up, and the rear wheelwells had been trimmed for large racing slicks.

“I bet that it made many runs down the drag strip during those days.” He indicated, though, that type of activity is not in his plans for the orange beauty. “Oh, I might get on it once-in-awhile, but that’s about it!”

Cenky did, however, make several minor changes for better driving comfort. “I used a wider eight-inch rear wheel. Then too, I changed the factory 4.10 ratio rear end to a 3.54 unit which makes the car much more streetable.” For a cleaner look, the small Road Runner decals-normally on the front quarters-and small chrome RR emblems on the rear quarters.

The car is coated in a flashy Tor Red color, a color which is carried to the exposed wheels which carry the small wheel covers, and in MOPAR style, also into the engine compartment. It’s highlighted with that broad black hood stripe which contains the hood scoop and is outlined by two narrow stripes. There is definitely a racecar look about this stunning machine.

The car also carries the Super Track Pack which included front disc brakes, heavy duty cooling package, special cooling fan, and the Dana rear end. The interior is done in black vinyl and sports bucket seats.

Cenky explained that even though the car is 36 years old, most people at car shows know exactly what it is. “I am always hearing from them that they owned one or knew somebody that did,” he explained. Mike’s long been a Chrysler fan, and it comes naturally. “My dad worked for the company for many years and all we ever had were Chrysler cars.” And over the years,

Mike has owned a number of vintage performance MOPARs, including a ‘67 440 R/T, a ‘70 Dodge Challenger 440 Six-Pack, a ‘72 340 Plymouth Duster, and a ‘70 Chrysler 300.

There is no mistaking the look of those Chrysler-built ‘60s and early muscle machines, and they are certainly a favorite of mine.”

And ours too!

Copyright © 2005-2006 Muscle car News Magazine Privacy Policy

Flooded Vehicle - is considered, a vehicle that was damaged by water level raised to seating level. Most flood damaged cars, trucks and SUVs are sent to a salvage yard, but some are cleaned up and put into the auto market where they’ll be bought by unsuspecting buyers who think they’re getting a great deal.

Flooded water leaves long lasting damage. Electrical and mechanical components will probably fail early. Mold and mildew can also create a serious problem. Any remaining warranty is voided. While buying a used car be on the lookout for these cars even if you don’t live in a flooded area, because dishonest people move them around. Here are some tips and points to detect flooded vehicles.

I) Get a Vehicle History Report Enter the vehicle’s VIN number to get a history report. Carfax does a great job of researching a vehicle’s background, but a clean slate is not a 100% guarantee that the car or truck hasn‘t suffered water damage. You can also contact CarSnaps and ask them for advice or request a vehicle background report.

II) Look for Moisture. Look for moisture within the lights. Check the glove compartment, console and trunk and inspect them for any sign of dampness moisture or the dirt that looks like a leftover from a flood. Look under the hood for accumulated dirt or signs of rust. Check under the seats for signs of moisture.

III) Take a deep Sniff This can really help in detecting flooded vehicles. Do you smell a sour, mildewy-like odor? Soaked seats, carpeting and other components are difficult to dry in a hurry, so there’s plenty of time for mold and mildew to grow, especially if the flood occurred in a hot and humid location.

IV) Look for Mismatched Interior Components Does the carpeting look brand new or mismatched or too new for the vehicle? Do seat covers seem out of place with the carpeting? Components that don’t match-up might have been changed in a hurry after the vehicle was pulled from flood waters.

V) Request free advice from CarSnaps Contact CarSnaps.com and request free advice from their qualified technicians who are there to help and it is free so there is nothing to lose.

VI) Let Your Technician Examine the Vehicle Take the vehicle to a technician if possible and ask for a thorough examination. Experienced auto technicians see evidence of flood damage more often than most individuals do, so they know exactly what to look for.

VII) Turn it On and Go for a Drive Turn the car on and check every electrical system possible, including the exterior and interior lights, the gauges, the clock and the audio system and the dash lights that display air bag and seat belt information. Go for a drive and test electrical components again to make sure they work correctly. 90% of the time you will be able to suspect an electrical problem with flooded vehicle unless it is repaired or electrical parts are not damaged which is very rare though.

Flooded vehicles should be avoided as much as possible even if seller tell you about the manufacturer warranty because warranty voids when a car goes through a flood. If you suspect a flooded vehicle walk away from it. Flooded vehicles are not worth the hassle they provide.

Clearly, a less important concern - for the moment—than Ford Windstar recalls might be what Levine Breaking News reported March 14, 2006: an anti-gay/conservative Christian group are seeking retribution by boycotting Ford Motors…because Ford advertises in gay publications.

Tell me when did we give up the right to spend our hard-earned money on costly advertising, top-class merchandise, and any ^%$# publication we wish to read, write for, subscribe to, publicize in, or be a demographic target for? Okay. Hold on. Before I get all involved in who has what - ahem - RIGHTS, I should calm down, digress, and recoup to the more significant concern or issue: Ford Winstar recalls. There are several of them, that vary from safety and other recall issues (and usually getting increasingly lessened by year), but a mention here will suffice, as other investigations thoroughly cover by describing and explaining.

FORD WINDSTAR RECALLS, 2003

-Seats: mid- and rear-assembly

FORD WINDSTAR RECALLS, 2002

-Seats: mid- and rear-assembly

FORD WINDSTAR RECALLS, 2001

- Mid- and rear-seat assembly - Windshield wiper/washer motor - Electrical system: air conditioner - Air bags frontal sensor control module - Accelerator pedal - Seat belt assembly - Trailer hitch

FORD WINDSTAR RECALLS, 2000

- Structure: body/hood - Vehicle speed control: accelerator pedal - Glass: side- and rear-view mirrors - Electrical wiring under dash - Electrical system wiring; windshield wiper/washer motor - Seat belts - Trailer hitch

FORD WINDSTAR RECALLS, 1999

- Structure: body/hood - Hydraulic brake foundation: hoses, lines, piping, fittings - Master cylinder - Electrical: air conditioning system; interior/under dash wiring - Windshield wiper/washer motor

FORD WINDSTAR RECALLS, 1998

- Structure: body/hood - Hydraulic brake foundation: hoses, lines, piping, fittings - Front wheel suspension springs and coils - Automatic trans/power train - Exterior lighting - Steering: gear box/shaft - Child seat

FORD WINDSTAR RECALLS, 1997

- Hydraulic brake foundation: hoses, lines, piping, fittings - Front wheel suspension springs and coils - Automatic trans/power train - Exterior lighting

FORD WINDSTAR RECALLS, 1996

- Structure: body/hood - Automatic trans/power train/gear position indication - Exterior lighting - Hydraulic brake foundation: hoses, lines, piping, fittings - Front wheel suspension springs and coils

FORD WINDSTAR RECALLS, 1995

- Structure: body/hood - Electrical system wiring - Hydraulic brake foundation: hoses, lines, piping, fittings - Front wheel suspension springs and coils - Alternator/generator - Gasoline storage tank assembly

With all of or despite all the recalls, I am still a huge Ford fan—having brought up around, in, and looking at and listening to hot rods and trucks made by Ford Motor Corp.. What’s more, I would still fight for the right to sell, buy, advertise, drive, think about or talk about any damned material item I please. Go Ford!