Weight is one of the most important issues to consider when building a fast car for road or track. Putting a car on a serious diet is pretty much free horsepower, as any attempt to lighten a car improves the power to weight ratio, this seriously improves acceleration.

The gains on a lightening a car are huge and not just limited to gains in acceleration either. Once you have lightened a fast car you will find the car performs better in the corners and under braking, parts such as brakes and tires will last longer on the car also.

The potential gains are huge but it must be done correctly, you would not want to lighten a rear wheel drive car too much on the rear or you may find traction a problem particularly with a high power output.

The truth is your fast car could be made a great deal faster cheaply and easily just by shaving a few pounds off the body.

How do we remove weight from the fast car?

This bit is as easy as you want it to be, but as with most forms of car modification it depends on how far you want to go. I know a guy who races a BMW and he decided to go all out on weight saving, he even scraped every bit of under-seal from the floors of the car, extreme perhaps but he managed to remove nearly 2 stone of under-seal, not a bad effort.

The obvious place to start saving weight on your fast car is by removing the interior, and anything else that you do not need, the front seats can be replaced with light weight racing items, the unused wiring removed, carpets and sound deadening, pretty much all of the unnecessary parts, my car has just a driver seat and a cage with much of the unnecessary wiring removed. This makes for a car with very impressive performance.

Many other components can be replaced with lighter parts, gear box casings, axle covers etc. It is worth noting that a stainless steel exhaust is lighter than the same in mild steel, so this constitutes a worthwhile investment.

It is also important to reduce the unsprung weight on the car also, by this I mean wheels, brakes and anything else before the suspension mounts, this provides a very good increase in the handling of the car.

The improvement of Renault, the inventor of the “Wind” roadster this year, is considered an interesting step because it reflexes the tendency into the roadster market in the future. There are many fascinating features of Wind developed under the “Touch Design” concept, such as the elegantly designed appearance that reflexes lively and the inner decorated with fine quality materials which reflexes class.

Neat, clean appearance consists of 2 main lines which are the bottom and top lines. Although the headlights’ shapes are plain, they are a significant part that helps empower the overall. Transparent windshield stuffed with blue and green lights similar to plane’s light, which are such brilliant. The green smoothly blended with the light blue or aquamarine of the body part is the individual characteristic of Wind. Fabulous 19-inch wheels and “245-35/ZR19” Michelin Pilot Sport 2 tires are another remarkable complement.

The most outstanding of it is the 3-seat capacity which is cocoon-curve shaped, light brown leather seat embraces the passengers and the driver.

Frill-designed seats are permanently installed, as well as the steering wheel and console that are adjustable and automatically roll out when the doors are opened, and that helps the passenger enter the car more easily. The center section linked with the back seat which is made of carbon fiber. It is layered with foam and leather, which can flip inside out in order to make the third seat.

Although it is a compact roadster, Wind contains wide and useful space. The rear space has 232 liters in capacity. Wind’s dimension consists of 3870 millimeters in length, 1750 millimeters in width, excluding the side windows, 1260 millimeters in height, and 2395 millimeters in wheel’s base’s length, as well as the 850 kilograms in weight.. The back seat has extra thick car soft-top attached with the rear curve-shaped window for protecting the passengers from rain and sunlight.

All Wind’s controlling devices are made of aluminum, which reflexes the sport characteristic. They are designed to be in round shape installed in the center of console. They contain control button, communicative device, stereo, and navigation system.

6-speed robotized gearbox is designed to be with the dashboard, while the shift gear is put on the steering wheel like the Formular-1’s. There is one gauge-meter made of cylinder-shaped glass. It is used for indicating the round-per-minute speed which is displaying the numbers in both analog and digital.

Air conditioner’s controller is designed to put on the inner driver’s door. Its engine is a 16-valve 2.0liters, 136 horsepower maximum, and 191 N/m torque. It is considered a low-pollution engine which qualifies the Euro-4 polluting gas production regulation. From the Wind’s information, it implies the effort to market the small roadster which has the outstanding in designs in color, capacity, and clean burning energy that is quite energetic. Most of its designs are in the draft stage, so if Renault has a plan to import this production, they need at least 2 years in development.

All modern car tires are now radial. Car tires are a tremendous blight on the environment, and there are about a billion car tires stockpiled in our country. Re-treaded passenger car tires are manufactured according to standards. Today’s passenger-car tires are safer at much higher speeds than 80 mph. While passenger-car tires are nearly all radials these days, ST tires are still available in bias-belted construction. We all know that our car tires are filled with air and that at certain times the air pressure in them decreases. The sport car tires are built to provide excellent traction and handling.

This standard specifies performance, labeling, and certification requirements for retreaded pneumatic passenger car tires. Higher-performance tires have softer, grip pier rubber with shorter tread life. There are quite a few levels of performance tires available on the market, from full-on race tires to general use passenger car tires. There are various types of performance tires that are sold in the market. Performance and luxury touring tires are quiet and handle incredibly well, sometimes it is hard to believe that these types of tires are having the ability to produce results like this. When using performance tires they tend to wear out quicker than usual everyday car tires that you would put on family cars. The largest accelerations that most high-performance car tires can withstand without breaking static friction are on the order of 0.

In the simplest of operations you can determine your chosen car or off-road vehicle and subsequently mount the rims of your choice visually on the vehicle. Plus-sizing is an option that allows vehicle owners to customize their vehicle by installing lower aspect ratio tires on wider- and larger-diameter rims. Lightweight metal rims are also available on the market.

The speed ratings of Goodyear passenger car tires are listed on the "Sizes Specifications" pages in the Car/Light Truck Tire Catalog. The materials and tooling Goodyear has developed to build its race tires help it build better passenger car tires.

All passenger car tires are all made from the same radial base so there is no need to sell in "balanced" sets as you put it. Car tires are cheap; you can pick up a used one just about anywhere. Your speedometer won’t read the correct speed if your car tires are not the right size. One important fact is that many automobile passenger tires are not intended to maneuver the car out of problem with speeds in excess of 75-80 mph. Make sure your car tires are in good condition and maintain a full tank of gas. Today’s car tires are built from steel and rubber which gives the tires the ability to last longer. Everyone knows car tires are inflated with air at high pressure to maintain their shape and will deflate when punctured.

When choosing a car tire it is best to speak to the dealership or auto mechanics to get their opinions on which tires are good for you type of car.

Learning a little more about how to better care for your vehicles is a good idea for any number of reasons. It allows you to know if an unscrupulous mechanic is attempting to gouge you on your repairs – and that will save you money. It can prevent you from making unnecessary repairs – and that will save you money. It can help you locate a problem and fix it early, thus saving more money – sometimes a whole lot of money. It allows you to be more independent in an era where people are entirely too dependent on others to survive.

We need to get started now, so that we have time to cover everything…

First, do a visual check of your vehicle. The following will assist you in where to look, and for what:

•Look at your tires. Do they look low? A tire pressure gauge, available inexpensively at any discount store of auto parts store will help you make sure tire pressure stays dead on. Maintain as necessary. Better tire pressures will make your vehicle safer, and more fuel efficient. There are some very inexpensive air pumps for sale at discount stores – should you really want to stay on top of air pressure in your tires. Motorcyclists and moped riders need to be exceptionally concerned about their tire pressures.

•Look closely at your tires and inspect for severely worn edges, areas missing chunks of rubber, or objects sticking into the tire. Maintain or replace as necessary. If your tires are relatively new, and they seem to be wearing unevenly, take you vehicle into the shop for an alignment, and likely a tire rotation. These two things are frequently lumped together in less costly automotive service “specials.”

•Look under the vehicle for liquids. One drop usually means nothing. Look for consistent drip marks. Remember that during summer months your vehicle’s air conditioning will steadily drip water when in use – no worries. Your coolant system may also spew an occasional bit of water/anti-freeze, and that’s okay too. If you find a stain indicating long-term or consistent leaking, trace the leak to its source: engine oil, transmission fluid, rear end oil, etc. Maintain or repair as necessary. Sometimes, just getting under the vehicle with a pressure hose at the car wash will clean off years of old oil and debris that causes many ‘driveway’ leaks – thus fixing the faux leak.

•Visually check your engine oil. Check it according to the manufacturer’s instructions, and also feel it with your fingers. Engine oil is the life blood of your vehicle’s power plant. Does the oil feel thick, or does it feel watery. Thick is good, watery is bad! Change watery oil (and be sure to use an Engine Sentry when you do change oil and filter). Add the appropriate oil if the level registers low. NEVER overfill your oil!

•Check the coolant level. Be sure to use caution, and follow the manufacturer’s instructions to avoid injury from hot, pressurized liquids. Maintain as necessary. If you haven’t had your coolant/anti-freeze checked lately, it might be advisable. Be sure to never add coolant or anti-freeze that is not recommended by your vehicle’s manufacturer. Some radiators require special products so as not to erode or corrode them.

•Visually check your engine compartment. Tighten caps, firmly tug/test hose connections, look for worn things, things that have blown into the engine compartment, etc. Maintain or repair as necessary. This is also a good time to do light engine cleaning. Nothing too serious, just some rags and some degreaser: ammonia and water make a cheap, great degreaser, but it shouldn’t be used on aluminum – certainly not left on it. A toothbrush is also an excellent tool here – it makes quick work of much engine debris.

•Visually check your automotive battery and connections. Make sure the connections feel tight at the battery. If you have green or white build-up on the battery, mix some baking soda with tepid water (1/4-cup of baking soda to one quart of water) and stir it thoroughly. Now, slowly pour it directly over the affected areas. Don’t worry about all the fizzing and crackling – it’s just cleaning. Make sure you do this where the runoff won’t harm anything. An old toothbrush will make this go faster. When the terminals are clean and dry, apply a thin coating of automotive grease onto each battery terminal, and connection. Automotive grease comes in small, plastic tubs that weigh about a pound each. They’re cheap, so get a good brand name. I use popsicle sticks to spread it with. Grease is good to have around for many automotive fixes and preventive maintenance actions.

Okay, you’ve completed the first steps of becoming a full-fledged automotive diagnostician – or something like that, anyway. You’ve definitely gotten your vehicle in much better condition, and you should have learned a thing or two. Keep an eye out for part II – Hear No Evil, and Part III – Smell No Evil.

Engine Sentry is a registered trademark of Iron Horseman Technologies. Iron Horseman Technologies is the trademark of Iron Horseman Technologies in Tucson, Arizona.

Here we have a few things you should check on your motorcycle on a regular basis. I assume you have a handbook with the specs for your bike, if not, go get one. You may be able to find some data for your particular motorcycle on the net. You can also pick up workshop manuals for various models on eBay in PDF or CD form for little money.

Whereas with a four wheeled vehicle you may get away with being lax with things like tire pressures etc, this is not the case with a motorcycle. You should not risk compromising the safety and stability of your motorcycle, for the sake of a bit of routine maintenance.

Pre-ride check

•Tires – check condition and for foreign objects in the tread.

•Tire pressures – it is vitally important to keep your motorcycles tire pressures either on spec or very close to it.

•Oil level – always check with the bike on level ground.

•Coolant level – only if your bike’s liquid cooled, obviously.

•Chain – check the tension and make sure it’s well lubed.

•Brakes – check they work and that they feel good.

•Lights – check all your lights, especially the brake light, you don’t want to get rear ended, do you?

•Visual inspection – self explanatory.

•All ok – hit the road.

Periodical checks

•Check battery – see that the connections are tight; I dropped a bike once because of a loose battery connection, strange but true. Also check the electrolyte level on some batteries, a lot of newer batteries are gel filled, sealed for life types, so no need with these.

•Carb balance – if your bike is multi carbed get yourself a Morgan carbtune or similar. It can be a little tricky the first time you balance them, but when you’ve done it once, the second time will be easy.

•Ignition timing – only necessary on some bikes, most newer models have electronic ignition which does not need touching, normally.

•Valve clearances – unless you’re a good home mechanic, take it to a dealer.

•Wheel bearings – grab each wheel with it off the ground and see if there is any sideways play. There should be none or maybe a trace at most.

•Steering head bearings – with the front end off the ground, grab the forks and push and pull. There should be no play.

•Swinging arm bearings – with the back wheel off the ground, check for any sideways movement in the swingarm, there should be none.

•Brakes – check fluid levels, brake hoses for deterioration, and pads/shoes for thickness.

•Cables and levers – should operate smoothly. Get some grease on lever/pedal pivot points, and get some lube down the cables, if you can. A cable oiler is a handy tool.

•Nut and bolts – go all round the motorcycle with your spanners and check that all nuts/ bolts/screws are nice and tight.

Well, that’s about it for some basic maintenance, obviously, unless you’re a good home mechanic, any bigger jobs will have to go to a dealer. The problem can be finding a good one with skilled mechanics you can trust. I manage to keep my Yamaha Fazer 1000 running sweet just using the steps listed above. It does help that this model only needs the valve clearances checking every 26,000 miles.

[Introduction]

Nitrous Oxide injection is a popular performance modification that offers maximum returns on spending. The direct outcome of using Nitrous Oxide injection is additional power to your vehicle. This results into better garnering of energy from combustion of fuel, revved up engine and eventual boost in over all performance of the vehicle.

Nitrous oxide is more popular than other performance modifications as besides better performance per unit of money spent, Nitrous installations are easier to accomplish. These installations can be used as and when the need arises. The Nitrous oxide injections are available to meet any magnitude of power need from 25 HP to over 500 extra HP. This performance option caters to the computer controlled fuel injected engines. The Nitrous systems are portable enough to be easily removed or transferred to another vehicle. In comparison to other performance options, Nitrous Oxide systems are feasible, as they cost least and install without much difficulty. To install NOS, all you need are some common hand tools and barely three to four hours time. There is no other performance option that can buy you more performance for lesser money than Nitrous.

Nitrous oxide is colorless, non-flammable and a slightly sweet smelling gas. Also known as laughing gas because of its euphoric effects, Nitrous is also known as NOS after the famous trademark catering Nitrous Oxide injection systems.

[How Does It Work?]

Nitrous oxides functions along identical principle as followed by sodium chlorate upon heating. It constitutes of two parts of Nitrogen and one part of Oxygen (N2O). When Nitrous Oxide is heated to a temperature of about 570 degrees F (~300 degree C), it splits into oxygen and nitrogen. So, injection of Nitrous oxide into the engine results into more oxygen available during combustion. As there is more oxygen available during combustion, the engine can also intake more fuel, and consequently generate more power. Thus, Nitrous oxide is one of the simplest manners to give a substantial horsepower boost to any gasoline engine.

Secondly, when pressurized Nitrous oxide is injected into the intake manifold, it boils and vaporizes. As a result, Nitrous oxide provides significant cooling effect on the intake air. With the cooling effect, the temperature of the intake air reduces by 60-75 degrees F. This in turn, increases air density and subsequent higher concentration of oxygen inside the cylinder. Thus additional power is generated. As per standard rule, every 10 degrees F reduction in intake charge temperature causes 1% increase in power. For example, a 350 HP engine with an intake temperature drop of 70 degrees F shall gain around 25HP on the cooling affect alone.

Thirdly, the nitrogen released during the process of heating also supports the performance aspect. As Nitrogen dampens down the increased cylinder pressure, it controls the combustion process eventually.

Nitrous oxide is colossal just like any other gas. Even its liquid form does not excuse the bulky nature of the gas. The engine requires a huge quantity of Nitrous Oxide to keep the 5-liter engine running at 4,000 rotations per minute (RPM). The speed of 4,000-RPM rate is secured by combustion of 10,000 liters of air every minute. In sharp contrast, the engine consumes only 0.2 liters of gasoline. In nutshell, the engine shall require magnanimous quantity of Nitrous oxide to run your vehicle continuously. Therefore, a car normally carries limited amount of nitrous oxide, which is used very selectively by the driver, by pushing a button.

Nitrous system offers improvement of 1 to 3 full seconds and 10 to 15 MPH in the quarter mile. Other factors viz. engine size, tires, jetting, gearing etc. determine the final results. It is best used with a wide-open throttle, unless a progressive controller is used. It can be safely applied above 2,500 rotations per minute (RPM) under full throttle conditions.

Forged aluminum pistons are one of the best modifications to complement NOS. Other important modifications may be a forged crankshaft, a high quality race type connecting rod, a high output fuel pump dedicated to feeding the additional fuel demands of Nitrous system and a racing fuel with high specific gravity and an octane rating of 110 or more.

For effective performance through Nitrous Oxide, it is important to choose the correct Horse Power for a given application. To elaborate, as the energy will be released in the cylinder, the load on various components to perform will also increase proportionately. If the energy released is greater than the ability to handle the energy, it will amount to wear and tear of the machinery. While 4 cyl. engines allow an extra 40-60 HP, 6 cyl. engines allow 75-100 extra HP only. On identical lines, while small blocks V8’s (302/350/400cid) typically allow up to 140 extra HP, big blocks V8’s (427/454) accept from 125–200 extra HP.

As Nitrous looses the optimal flow rate at very cold temperatures, NOS kit has a nitrous pressure gauge that allows you to monitor the pressure to approximately 800-900 psi. In colder climates, it is always advisable to purchase a bottle heater kit, part # 14161 to keep the ambient temperature to 70-90 degrees F.

Further, the condition of the engine is important to keep in mind while choosing NOS kit for your vehicle. A worn out and poorly tuned up vehicle will not be able to sustain NOS pressure and will be instead harmed by abnormal wear.

Though the button triggering on Nitrous oxide may be held pressed until the bottle containing it is rendered empty, it is recommended that Nitrous Oxide may be used for 15 continuous seconds or lesser. The Nitrous bottle can be easily refilled from any NOS certified distributor. The NOS bottle must not be overfilled as overfilling and/ or too much heat can result into excessive bottle pressures, following a blown out safety seal and eventual release of all the contents out of the bottle.

[Summary]

To wrap up, Nitrous Oxide magnifies the output of any engine – be it stock engine or modified engine, to lend more power and better performance. However, it is important to keep the condition and horsepower of the engine in mind before introducing particular NOS to it to secure positive results only.

You might think that 6 liters was enough to make the Corvette two-seater fast enough, but not for the competition department lurking inside GM. They wanted to be able to compete head-to-head with the European supercars in the international endurance races for sports cars.

To do so, they took a leaf out of Ford’s book. In the 1960s, when Ford found it could not compete with the smaller Ferraris at Le Mans with the 4.2 (ex-Indy) or 4.7 liter engines, they brought out their 7-liter mill. And it was so much bigger than the competition that they won. So the guys behind the Corvette decided to produce a 7-liter version of America’s favorite and most famous sports car.

By the way, the 7 liter Corvette more than competes with the Dodge Viper SRT-10, which could give the standard Corvette a bit of a run for its money. Of course, this is not just any old engine. This is a very special version of its GEN IV 7.0 liter V-8.

This 2006 Corvette is challenging for muscle car of the year with no less than 500 bhp on tap at 6,200 rpm. Maximum torque from this mammoth engine is 475 lb ft at 4,800 rpm. This is bound to be a stunner with a top speed of about 185 mph and 0-60 in under 4.0 seconds. GM expects the quarter-mile be under 12 seconds.

To give durability, the engine has been beefed up in a number of ways. First, the connecting rods and inlet valves are now made of titanium – these weigh about half as much as steel ones and are used in quite a number of high-performance engines. Because of the low weight, the titanium parts put less load on other critical parts of the engine - the crankshaft, bearings and in this case the valve gear as well. The titanium valves also allow the engine to rev faster safely.

In fact, titanium used to be an aerospace-only material because it was so expensive, but it is now bein gused more in exotic cars and the heads of golf clubs, helping the lesser pros feel not so outclassed by Tiger Woods as they might with ordinary drivers.

You will see that the Corvette 7 liter is intended for the race track by the fact that the engine has a dry sump lube system. A dry sump system prevents the oil in the oil pan from slopping away from the pick-up on fast cornering – the sort you can do only on a track – and thus damaging the main bearings.

Instead of staying in the oil pan, the oil is pumped out to a tank, and then pressure fed from there directly to the engine bearings and other critical areas. Definitely a system for top supercars.

The underpinnings of the car have also been beefed up with a new aluminum perimeter frame which reduces weight. Further weight reduction comes with a new magnesium engine sub-frame. To ensure the car is stiff enough, it will be available only as a hardtop. The front fenders and wheelarches are now carbon fiber composite panels, which also reduce weight.

But there’s more…

To get all that power onto the road, and to get it to stop, bigger wheels, tires and brakes have been fitted. The front brake discs are now 13.9 inch diameter, and 19 x 12 inch wide rims are used at the back; front wheels are 18 x 9.5 inches. Such massive rear tires for a car with 50:50 weight distribution suggest that the car will have a tendency to oversteer – smoky drifts could be the order of the day!

All-in-all, this is a really special car, developed to compete with the best.

A car with an excellent paint job is one of life’s true joys. It’s like being the kid with the best bike in the neighbourhood or the biggest piece of birthday cake. Whether you drive a ‘47 Eldorado, a ‘66 Beetle or an ‘07 fortwo, a great paint job will take your vehicle from ho-hum to headturner.

Actually creating a great automotive paint job takes skill and finesse. Automotive painting is one of the most arduous and painstaking tasks in crafting an automobile. It can also be one of the most costly. If you are on a budget, there are options for you. Some paint shops can deliver a good paint job for a fair price. Your other option is to take on the task yourself. If the paint job is a success, you’ll have even more to brag about: a hot set of wheels AND a "do it yourself" tale to tell. Achieving a great paint job is a step-by-step process. You simply can’t rush automotive painting. Follow the basic steps of preparation, primer application, blocking, final paint coat and detail application. This can seem like a daunting task for any beginner, but the entire job can be completed in just a few days.

Prepare Before you begin, check with local bylaws and regulations regarding the use of spray paint in homes and enclosed areas. The last thing you need is a legal holdup delaying your painting job.

Cleaning the car is your next crucial step. The car must be spotlessly clean and free of dirt. Use detergents to clean the car top to bottom, and then follow up with grease removers. After the car has been cleaned, it’s time to begin sanding. An air sander (preferably a dual-action sander) should be used to remove the old paint from the car. This kind of sander will not cause body damage because it removes paint without digging like other sanders and grinders. Every trace of paint must be removed to create a perfect palette for your new paint job. Automotive detailing tape or even duct tape can be used to cover and protect other parts of the car, including plastic moldings and windows. In addition to removing the old paint, all traces of rust have to be sanded off. Rust will spread if ignored or untreated, and the last thing you want is body rot happening beneath your spiffy new paint. You can repair minor body flaws on the car’s surface using fillers. Shape the compound with care using a sanding board, then follow up with a glazing compound. This step will help to ensure a smooth-as-glass finish on your ride.

Mask After the whole car has been initially cleaned, then sanded, a final cleaning takes place and the vehicle is ready to be masked. In this step, every part of the car that shouldn’t be touched by paint is covered and protected. Remember, you will be using high-grade automotive paint that doesn’t wash off with water. Cover your windows, every light and reflector, all window rubbers, all chrome, tires, wheels, door handles, wipers.. take a good look and what needs to be masked. If you don’t want even the tiniest bit of over spray on it, cover it up! The tools and materials needed for masking are available at automotive supply warehouses and hardware stores.

Prime Priming is an essential step to providing a good foundation for your new paint. A flawless prime coat will help you to achieve a perfect paint job. Valspar epoxy is a good primer choice, combining dependable filling capabilities with minimal shrinking. After the primer has been applied, a second coat in a contrasting colour should be applied on top of the first layer. This will serve as a sanding guide. The primer should be sanded to a smooth finish, but don’t sand too vigorously or you could actually damage the body of the car. When the priming is complete, a sealer is applied and a final sanding takes place.

Finishing off In finishing off the automotive painting, it is essential to achieve uniform colour. The spray gun should be held ten to twelve inches away from the body to avoid streaks and runs. This is necessary when applying the basecoat, final coat and clear coat.

Regardless of the type of car you drive, a new paint job can turn it into a real showstopper. Automotive painting can be a time consuming task, but you can do it if you take it step by step. The creative energy will be good for your soul, and the compliments you receive will be great for your confidence.

I live in Detroit: one of the cities with the highest rates of auto theft in the nation. Here are some tips from an expert on how to avoid getting your car (or any of the contents of your car) stolen.

Be a Smart Parker

Remember to always park your car in well-light areas. Having your car in a high traffic area is also a good idea. You might even consider getting assigned parking at a lot with an attendant if you are concerned about your car.

Car Alarm Fallacies

Car alarms might sound like a great safety feature, but they might just be one more of the bells and whistles. You can put a sticker on your car that says that it has a car alarm without actually including the car alarm. You will save money this way. You will also save yourself (and others) headaches when people accidentally brush against your car.

Lock it Up

Almost half of all car thefts are performed when an owner leaves the car unlocked. This could mean that they forget to lock their car once, or it could also mean that they leave their car running while they just run in to do an errand. Turn your car off, take your keys, and lock your car whenever you leave it. It is also better for the environment if you turn your car off instead of idling it. You should also consider locking your garage door if you are using a garage. This brings me to another point: always park in a garage when possible.

Make it Less Attractive

Take away all of your belongings with you when you leave your car. This means that you should move any bags to the trunk, and make sure that there are no valuable visible from outside the car. If you can remove your car stereo, place it in the glove compartment or a similar out-of-sight place. Even something that seems as harmless as a glasses case could cause a thief to choose your car instead of another car, so be cautious when you leave your car.

Invest in some Safety

Having a steering wheel lock (such as the club) might not make it that much more difficult for a thief to steal your car, but it might also make them think twice. You don’t even have to lock your steering wheel lock if you find it too cumbersome to use.

Vehicle Identification Numbers are numbers that are etched into cars at various places, including on the windows and major parts. Thieves will be know where to look for vehicle identification numbers, and might avoid stealing a car with VIN etching because the parts will be harder to use, and the car will be easier for police to trace.

Ignition-kill switches and fuel-kill switches are other anti-theft devices that you can consider for you car.

Sometimes getting anti-theft devices can lower your insurance premiums, and so will be a good investment for the future. You might even end up saving money and gaining a peace of mind with them!

Think of the tow-away

Sometimes cars are not stolen by hotwiring, but rather, by being towed away. If you park with your tires facing the curb, it will make it more difficult for a thief to tow your car away. Using your emergency brake will also prevent being towed.

Car theft is not a pretty thought. Cars are large investments and you want to protect your investment. Thinking ahead can prevent some unpleasant reactions.

The Skinny on H&R Springs: H&R Special Springs offers 3 different stages of spring kits, 2 stages of matched shock and spring packages, wheel spacers, a large selection of 60mm (2.3") race springs, as well as numerous special order racing applications. OE Sport Springs are a Stage 1 modification which means that they provide minimal lowering level and a just slightly more aggressive stance. The Sport Spring kit in the Stage 2 group offer more for styling appearance and increased stiffness of 25-30%. The Race Springs are a Stage 3 modification and provide extreme lowering as well a much firmer, higher performance ride.

The H&R Special Springs: Cup Kit and Coil Over packages are matched shocks and spring sets that are tuned for excellent high performance handling yet still maintain a very compliant ride quality. The Stage 3.5 Cup Kit package differs from the Stage 4 Coil Over package in adjustability and intended use. Cup Kits are a performance street suspension that offers lowering of 2" or greater and have a fixed ride height, whereas Coil Overs are inteded for high performance street use as well as light track use and offer adjustable lowering of 1-3" or 3-5" lowering based upon the kit and application. More radical full race kits are available.

H&R Wheel Spacers: When it comes to all-out cornering performance, one rule applies: wider is really, truly better. H&R TRAK+ wheel spacers let you balance the handling and performance of your car to suit your aggressive driving style, and without spending the time, money and trouble of springing for bigger wheels and tires. Most manufacturers, even Porsche and BMW, leave 20 to 30mm of extra space between the wheels and the fenders, to suit arcane regulations or to leave space for flapping tire chains. These light-alloy spacers push your existing wheels or even your hot, aftermarket alloys out to fill the wheelwells properly, giving you better cornering, better aerodynamics and even better looks. Wheel spacers are also great for making more room for those BIG Porsche brake upgades.