Yamaha’s venture to the marine water craft began as early as the 60’s but the company’s production of the personal water crafts came in later, in 1986. There are several reasons why Yamaha decided to produce PVC. One of them was the increasing interest of the public with Kawasaki’s Jet Ski and Bombardier’s Sea-Doo. (The names Jet Ski and Sea-Doo have become the generic terms for stand-up and sit-down personal water craft respectively.) The sales of the two brands kept on rising that prompted the entry of the WaveRunner into the marine recreation picture.

The very first Yamaha PVC at the same time the very first sit-down PVC was the WaveRunner 500 or the Marine Jet 500T. Although the Sea-Doo first released the sit-downs, the WaveRunner set today’s sit-down market.

A year later, the WaveRunner was shortly replaced with the name WaveJammer 500 or the Marine Jet 500S. This model was considered as the world’s first solo riding sit-down PWC. Same with the WaveRunner 500, the WavaJammer was very agile with its combination of small hull and fixed steering column.

The sit-down model was still very popular during the 90’s and resulted to the introduction of the WaveRunner III 650 or the Marine Jet 650TL. This model was given the recognition as the world’s first PVC that was designed for 3 passengers. It featured high-performance engine, great stability, speed, and a larger hull. This model became the parent of the later Yamaha WaveRunner models as the demands for larger PVC’s increased over the years.

Before the introduction of another WaveRunner (except for the WaverRunner VX650 in 1992) came several other Yamaha PVC’s. These include Super Jet 650 stand-up (jet ski), WaveBlaster 700 that rode like a motorcycle, WaveRaider 700, WaveVenture 700 with a 3-seater capacity, and the WaveBlaster II with a very powerful 760cc engine.

In 1997 came the WaveRunner GP 1200 with one of the most powerful engines in the market. From hereon, the power, size, style, and features become the priority of Yamaha. More models with these characteristics came out. The WaveRunner XL 1200 came a year after. In 1999 two models, the WaveRunner SUV 1200 and WaveRunner XL 1200 Ltd was released.

In 2000, the Yamaha PVC, the WaveRunner GP 1200R, has 155 hp engine with amazing body design. It was followed by the WaveRunner XLT 1200, WaveRunner FX140, WaveRunner GP 1300R with 1200cc engine, WaveRunner FX Cruiser High Output higher performance 4-stroke engines, WaveRunner VX Deluxe, WaveRunner FX Cruiser High Output, and WaveRunner VX 700. All these models are performance driven, stylish and most of all, very affordable.

Some makers of biodiesel are satisfied to let their newly produced mixture simply sit untouched for about a week to allow the bulk of the soap residues settle to the bottom before running the product through a filter and into their fuel tank. But for a cleaner biodiesel that burns better, runs better, gets better mileage, and minimizes wear and tear on your engine, you may wish to consider taking this stage of the process a step further.

There are numerous ways to wash biodiesel, the simplest being to pour water with a dash of white vinegar mixed in into a translucent container made of PVC or some other similar material, or a 5-7 gallon bucket, if washing large batches, fitted with a valve at the bottom that can be opened or closed at will. Then pour your biodiesel on top of it and gently stir, avoiding agitating the soaps you�re attempting to remove. Afterwards, let the mixture sit for 12-24 hours.

At the end of this time the oil (biodiesel fuel) and the water (cloudy with soap) will have separated, and you can decant the biodiesel out the top, and then drain the soapy water out the bottom.

You�ll want to repeat this process 1 or 2 more times, using fresh water each time (though after the 1st wash, you need not add any vinegar to the water you use for subsequent batches.) In the interest of preserving water, by the way, the remaining water from your 3rd wash could be used for the 1st wash on a subsequent batch.

If, after 3 washings, there still seems to be residual soaps remaining, they can then be removed by slowly reheating the oil, decanting out the clean biodiesel and leaving the impurities behind.

There is, however, another way to wash your biodiesel that, while taking longer to complete, uses up far less water. Brought to us by the University of Idaho, this technique, called Bubble Washing, utilizes an aerator and an air stone, both of which you can buy for under $50 collectively at your local aquarium supply shop,.

If the aerator you purchase comes with a filter, remove it now before proceeding. Add into a tank or container filled halfway with biodiesel 30 milliliters of vinegar for every 100 liters of biodiesel and then fill it just about the rest of the way with plain water.

Drop into the mixture the air stone that�s attached to the end of your aerator. It will immediately sink to the tank�s bottom. Once you turn the aerator on, bubbles begin to emanate from the stone, rising up through the tank, washing the fuel as it does so.

When the bubble arrives at the surface of the biodiesel, it then pops, releasing a water droplet that then drops back through the mixture, washing it a second time.

Now if washing your biodiesel this way only succeeds in making it cloudier, then there�s probably too much alkali in your mixture. This can easily be reduced by adding a small amount of lemon juice or white vinegar to the water you�re washing with.

Let the bubble washing continue for 2 to 3 days. For faster results, you might choose to attach the pump (aerator) to the side of your tank or container. The vibrations assist in the separation process and help expedite its completion.

Periodically check the pH of the mixture as the process rolls along. Whether you wash your biodiesel �manually� (as in the first method outlined) or using the latter bubble washing method, you should only consider the process complete when the pH of your biodiesel reaches approximately 7-7.5 (neutral).

That�s when you know you�re good to go.