Selling your car or truck? It’s important to keep in mind that prospective used car buyers evaluate the person selling the care almost as much, if not more, than they examine the car itself. In order to win their interest and their trust it is crucial that you should make a good impression. Wherever possible possible, strive make your prospective customers feel comfortable and be open in your response to their inquiries.

Be ready to answer their questions as soon as prospective buyers start calling. Answer questions posed over the phone honestly in an effort to prepare callers for what to expect when they see the car. This works to save both you and the customer a lot of time and work by making only those appointments that have a reasonable chance of becoming a sale. Furthermore, strive to make appointments with each customer for a specific time, rather than leaving them to some vague time such as "after work", or "Saturday afternoon".

Remember that making an appointment when selling a car increases the chances of the buyers showing up. Don’t feel obligated to wait for a late customer. To help things go smoothly, request a contact number (preferably a cell phone) and take it in stride if some prospective buyers don’t show. Cancellations, with or without notice, are simply part of the process.

It should be expected that any potential buyer will ask to test-drive the car. Ride along with them so you can answer questions, as well as ensure the safety of the automobile. There is also the possibility that the customer may not be familiar with the area, so riding along with them allows you to serve as a guide.

Some of the buyers are likely to want to have the car inspected by a mechanic. If a mechanic has already checked it, this is the right time to show that paperwork. This is a reasonable request in any transaction such as buying or selling a car.

Protect Yourself

It is important to be cautious and to take steps to ensure your safety and the safety of your interests. For example, holding onto a buyer’s driver’s license is a reasonable safeguard if a buyer insists on going on a test-drive by his or herself. If the buyer has a problem with this arrangement there’s a very good chance that allowing an unsupervised test-drive would go against your best interests. On the other hand, it’s not unreasonable for a buyer to want the car checked by a different mechanic if it has already been checked by yours. Be prepared to go with the flow a little bit, and you are more likely to get a sale.

RC car painting is typically done using one of two methods: spray cans or an airbrush. Needless to say your skill level will be the ultimate determining factor since most people just aren’t that familiar with the intricacies of airbrushing. Both methods have their particular idiosyncratic advantages and disadvantages, however.

RC car painting via spray cans is the choice of many not only because they either don’t have access to an airbrush or know how to use one, but also because it can be done quickly. A huge amount of space can be covered relatively quickly with a spray can. But RC car painting isn’t the same thing as changing the color of a flag pole.

You want to be proud of that car and make it look as good as it runs. Although personalizing and detailing can usually done much better by airbrush, if you take your time and plan ahead, your spray can RC car painting can wind up looking quite impressive.

Of course, RC car painting with an airbrush is ultimately what you should aim for. The benefits of using an airbrush is that you have access to so many more colors than you can get from using spray cans. And that’s saying a lot, because even if you do choose to use spray cans, you’ll still have over fifty different colors from to pick. But when RC car painting with an airbrush, you can exponentially expand those choices through mixing and blending.

In addition to more flexible use of coloring, airbrushing also affords more control in application. Unlike spray cans, an airbrush can be adjusted, allowing you to spray the paint as thickly or thinly as you like.

The downside to using an airbrush, besides your own level of artistic ability, is cost. For RC car painting with an airbrush you’ll need a compressor. You can try using canned air to begin with, but you’ll quickly find yourself spending more money than you planned on saving because they empty pretty quickly. Better to shell out for an actual compressor, preferably one that produces 25 to 70 psi. By pass the 1/8 HP hobby compressors and go for the ½ HP. Since most RC car painting is now done with next generation water-based paints, also make sure the compressor comes with a moisture trap; if it doesn’t, you’ll quickly find car covered in thick gobs of paint.

RC car painting with an airbrush requires not just air, obviously, but brushes. Ideally, you will want to own more than one brush, but since they can be pricy—the good ones anyway—you may just want to start off with one. The reason for owing two is pretty obvious. RC car painting at its finest creates a work of art that combines both thick lines and fine lines, therefore you want a brush for both thicknesses.

In addition, the paint itself comes in various thickness and some of the finer brushes just handle the thicker paints at the psi the compressor puts out. RC car painting with an airbrush obviously requires more effort, time and expense than RC car painting with spray cans, but the end result usually shows.

Today’s vehicles are equipped with an array of warning lights. Of course we’re all familiar will the seat belt warning and the door ajar indicator; however, with the automotive industry’s technological advancements there are a number of warning lights that can be quite alarming.

Following is a Question and Answer Guide on some of the more common Warning Light concerns. Note: due to the frequency of the Check Engine Warning Light, it has a section all its own. Visit www.repairtrust.com/check.html.

1) SRS Light (Supplemental Restraint System): the supplemental restraint system is your Airbag System. It may incorporate a variety of active, passive, and even pre-safe technology depending on the vehicle. Given that the SRS System is a safety system, it is well monitored with numerous sensors and automatic self-tests. The slightest malfunction in this system illuminates the SRS light.

“Can the vehicle be driven with an SRS Light on?” Yes, at the owner’s risk. There are thousands of vehicles on the road without SRS technology.

“Is the airbag going to blow up?” It’s unlikely. When the SRS Light is on the system is inoperative.

2) ABS Lights: The Anti-Lock Brake System Warning Light is another common occurrence in today’s vehicles. The ABS system helps to keep you from skidding out of control during braking by limiting your wheels from locking up/skidding.

The ABS system is often integrated with traction control and stability systems, all of which are designed to keep you safe during panic stops, wheel slippage, and handling.

“Do I need brakes?” You might, but that’s not why the ABS Light is on. The ABS Warning System does not monitor disc brake pad or disc brake rotor wear (see the Padlight Warning section below)

“Can the vehicle be driven?” Like the SRS system, the vehicle can be driven at the owner’s risk as there are many vehicles still on the market without the enhanced safety features of ABS.

“Why is my ABS light on? How do I reset the ABS Light?” These are simple questions with a multitude of answers depending on the vehicle in question. For a QUICK and FREE solution, follow the information and guidelines for Resetting Check Engine Light, and apply them to your ABS light.

3) Low Coolant Light: The Low Coolant Light will come on when the coolant drops below the coolant level sensor—generally one to two quarts. If this light is on, there are two primary possibilities. The most common is a coolant leak. The other is an electrical fault in the warning lamp circuit. Have them checked out.

“Can it be driven?” If there are no major leaks, the vehicle is not overheating (and does not start to overheat), and there is still some evidence of coolant in the overflow bottle, it can be driven. If you can see coolant leaking on the ground—tow it. When in doubt, always tow it!

4) Red Oil Light On: Stop driving immediately and shut the engine off! If a Red Oil Warning Light comes on PAY ATTENTION.

The best case scenario is that your engine oil is a little low. The second best case scenario is that there is an electrical issue with the Oil Level Warning System circuit.

First, follow your owners’ manual’s instructions to check your oil. If low, add as recommended—make sure you don’t see it dripping or pouring out on the ground, which would indicate a “major” engine leak.

If the oil is not low and your engine is making ticking, knocking, or unusual noises, Tow it!

If everything appears ok, and you’re a bit of a gambler, it may just be an issue with the warning lamp circuit. In this case, get your vehicle checked out at your earliest convenience.

The worst case scenario is internal engine damage.

Note: many of today’s vehicles have very sensitive and sophisticated Oil Level Warning Systems. You may be alerted of oil level too high, or oil level too low. Again, refer to your owners’ manual’s instructions.

So whether it’s a 1993 Ford Aerostar Check Oil Light, or a question of “Why does oil light flash in Saab automobile,” PAY ATTENTION!

5) Red Brake Warning Lights: Generally, Red Warning Lights mean DANGER. In the case of a Red Brake Warning Light, there may be a hydraulic brake fluid leak. If the brake pedal feels abnormal or spongy—don’t drive—Tow It!

“Can I drive it?” If the car is stopping ok, and you’re a gambler, go ahead. If the brake pedal feels different than usual, or if the vehicle is not stopping properly, don’t drive it!

Note: make sure that your emergency brake is not on or partially engaged, as this will illuminate a Red Brake Warning Light.

6) Yellow Brake Warning Light (Padlight): This is an early warning system for brake pad wear. Essentially, as your disc brake pads wear down, at a certain point a sensor is tripped to alert you that you will need brakes soon.

“Can I drive the vehicle, and for how long?” Yes, you can continue to drive. How long depends on your driving style. City drivers (city driving is generally harder on brakes due to the constant stop and go) will likely need their brakes addressed before someone who does primarily highway driving.

“Will I do more damage to the brakes?” Depending on how long you continue to drive you could conceivably wear your disc brake pads down to the metal backing plate, which could then damage your disc brake rotors and, in rare cases, the disc brake calipers. However, with many of today’s brake systems, the replacement of the disc brake rotors along with the disc brake pads is required or strongly recommended.

Important: It is better to have your brakes checked early to increase the possibility of saving money by not having to replace the rotors. However, many of today’s brake disc pads and rotors require replacement not due to wear, but due to rust and corrosion; thus rotor replacement is often necessary anyway. Brake calipers rarely need replacing during regular brake work.

7) Air Suspension Lights (Airmatic, Air Ride, Hydraulic Suspensions): Suspension Warning Lights illuminate when the suspension’s monitoring system has detected a fault. Often there is a leak—either air or hydraulic fluid.

“Can I drive it?” Sometimes. But if the suspension is lower than usual, and/or the vehicle just doesn’t feel right—Tow It! Extensive damage could result if the suspension drops too low while driving.

Note: air suspension system repairs are best left to the best, state-of-the-art service center you can find, preferably a dealership.

Tire Pressure Warning Light: This recent technological development causes quite a bit of confusion. Put simply, if your tire is getting low on air, your car lets you know via sensors mounted in various places depending on the model.

“What is the low tire pressure warning light reset procedure?” Sometimes the reset procedure is as simple as pressing a button. Other times one has to set the tire pressures, recalibrate the on-board computer, genuflect and cross two fingers. Check your owners’ manual or call a specialist or dealer.

Note: Local shops and franchises (for the most part) lack familiarity with Tire Pressure Monitoring Systems given that this is a fairly recent technological development. You can refer to How to Reset Check Engine Light, and follow the tips, and suggestions for getting it reset.

9) Emission Warning Light: This light is similar to the Check Engine Light. Many European models such as Volvos have this type of Warning System. It’s essentially letting you know that an emissions component has failed or detected a fault. Follow the Check Engine Light information and tips to address this particular warning light.

Note: make sure you take it to a shop equipped to handle emissions work.

10) Resetting Oil Lights (Oil Change Warning Lamps): Whether it’s a Toyota Oil Light Procedure, an Oil Change Warning Light Reset 2005 GMC Envoy, or the process to Reset 1999 M3 Oil Service Light, all require a specific course of action.

Most owners’ manuals have this information. You should find it under maintenance or oil service. You can also call your local mechanic, who resets oil service lights everyday on a variety of models. A dealership will certainly have the information; however, finding someone in a dealership who can translate it effectively may be difficult.

If the above fails, see the process for Resetting Check Engine Light.

Note: several European models require special tools to reset the oil service light, thus it’s best to call or visit a specialist or dealer.

Note: This information is not a substitute for your vehicle’s owners’ manual. It is meant to be a general guide. Always refer to manufacturer vehicle-specific guidelines.

Note: PAY ATTENTION to how you are billed for any of the above warning concerns. Because of their technical nature they can get “unnecessarily” very pricy, quickly.

Have you ever wondered about the differences in the tastes of men and women when it comes to cars? Clearly, men prefer cars that look tough and masculine and ooze power while women prefer cars that are “cute” and stylish, right? Well, that’s true to a certain extent, according to a recent study on car ownership between the sexes. However, what may be surprising to some is that there are areas of common interest between men and women and that both actually share a liking for the same favorite cars.

According to registration records for new 2005 and 2006 car models (January 2006 to the present), men love luxurious, high performance cars, preferably with a horsepower of 367 or more. On the other hand, women prefer cars that are affordable, practical and safe. They also put a premium on design flair in their cars as evidenced by the popularity of the Eclipse Spyder convertible, which had the highest percentage of female registrants of any car on the market. The preferred horsepower for the women’s cars were way below the standards of men, with the top five models having only an average 172 hp compared to 367 hp in the men’s favorites. It was just like you expected, right?

It was interesting to see the Mitsubishi Eclipse Spyder on top of the list of women’s favorite cars. If you take a good look at it, it does somehow seem like a feminine-looking car. But hold it. The Eclipse Spyder also happens to be the car of choice among 34.2% of male registrants. In fact, the study showed that registration records indicate that men sometimes buy feminine cars but women rarely purchase male-oriented, testosterone-fueled sports and luxury cars.

The thing is, what really makes a feminine car? I mean, I always considered the Mitsubishi Eclipse Spyder to be a masculine car ever since I first saw it in the 2003 movie “2 Fast 2 Furious,” particularly since it belonged to the angry, muscular ex-convict played by Tyrese Gibson.

The next popular cars for women were the Toyota RAV4 sport utility vehicle (SUV) and another Mitsubishi favorite, the hardtop Eclipse coupe. The men’s favorites were the Honda Acura NSX sports car and DaimlerChrysler’s Mercedes-Benz S55 AMG performance sedan.

A car with an excellent paint job is one of life’s true joys. It’s like being the kid with the best bike in the neighbourhood or the biggest piece of birthday cake. Whether you drive a ‘47 Eldorado, a ‘66 Beetle or an ‘07 fortwo, a great paint job will take your vehicle from ho-hum to headturner.

Actually creating a great automotive paint job takes skill and finesse. Automotive painting is one of the most arduous and painstaking tasks in crafting an automobile. It can also be one of the most costly. If you are on a budget, there are options for you. Some paint shops can deliver a good paint job for a fair price. Your other option is to take on the task yourself. If the paint job is a success, you’ll have even more to brag about: a hot set of wheels AND a "do it yourself" tale to tell. Achieving a great paint job is a step-by-step process. You simply can’t rush automotive painting. Follow the basic steps of preparation, primer application, blocking, final paint coat and detail application. This can seem like a daunting task for any beginner, but the entire job can be completed in just a few days.

Prepare Before you begin, check with local bylaws and regulations regarding the use of spray paint in homes and enclosed areas. The last thing you need is a legal holdup delaying your painting job.

Cleaning the car is your next crucial step. The car must be spotlessly clean and free of dirt. Use detergents to clean the car top to bottom, and then follow up with grease removers. After the car has been cleaned, it’s time to begin sanding. An air sander (preferably a dual-action sander) should be used to remove the old paint from the car. This kind of sander will not cause body damage because it removes paint without digging like other sanders and grinders. Every trace of paint must be removed to create a perfect palette for your new paint job. Automotive detailing tape or even duct tape can be used to cover and protect other parts of the car, including plastic moldings and windows. In addition to removing the old paint, all traces of rust have to be sanded off. Rust will spread if ignored or untreated, and the last thing you want is body rot happening beneath your spiffy new paint. You can repair minor body flaws on the car’s surface using fillers. Shape the compound with care using a sanding board, then follow up with a glazing compound. This step will help to ensure a smooth-as-glass finish on your ride.

Mask After the whole car has been initially cleaned, then sanded, a final cleaning takes place and the vehicle is ready to be masked. In this step, every part of the car that shouldn’t be touched by paint is covered and protected. Remember, you will be using high-grade automotive paint that doesn’t wash off with water. Cover your windows, every light and reflector, all window rubbers, all chrome, tires, wheels, door handles, wipers.. take a good look and what needs to be masked. If you don’t want even the tiniest bit of over spray on it, cover it up! The tools and materials needed for masking are available at automotive supply warehouses and hardware stores.

Prime Priming is an essential step to providing a good foundation for your new paint. A flawless prime coat will help you to achieve a perfect paint job. Valspar epoxy is a good primer choice, combining dependable filling capabilities with minimal shrinking. After the primer has been applied, a second coat in a contrasting colour should be applied on top of the first layer. This will serve as a sanding guide. The primer should be sanded to a smooth finish, but don’t sand too vigorously or you could actually damage the body of the car. When the priming is complete, a sealer is applied and a final sanding takes place.

Finishing off In finishing off the automotive painting, it is essential to achieve uniform colour. The spray gun should be held ten to twelve inches away from the body to avoid streaks and runs. This is necessary when applying the basecoat, final coat and clear coat.

Regardless of the type of car you drive, a new paint job can turn it into a real showstopper. Automotive painting can be a time consuming task, but you can do it if you take it step by step. The creative energy will be good for your soul, and the compliments you receive will be great for your confidence.

(NC)—You don’t have to buy a new vehicle every three or four years if you take proper care of the one you’ve got. Freeman Young, president of Krown Rust Control Systems, offers these tips for keeping your automobile looking its best and performing well for many years:

• Have your car treated annually to prevent rust, preferably beginning soon after you buy it.
• If your car has already begun to rust, don’t despair. As long as it isn’t bad enough to require body work, a rust control chemical can still penetrate the rust, preventing further oxidization and stopping the spread of corrosion.
• Find an environmentally safe product, preferably one that has a hydrocarbon (oil) base.
• Insist on watching the technicians to make sure they do the job knowledgably and with care. (For example, they should spray the rust control product into hidden areas such as the top of the gas tank.) If they won’t let you watch, take your business where the service is better.
• Keep your vehicle clean and, during the winter months, salt-free; clean the wheel wells frequently with a power washer.
• Promptly touch up door dings, scratches and rock chips, which are opportunities for rust.

More information on rust control and vehicle maintenance is available at www.krown.com or call 1-800-267-5744.