Ideally, you should change your motor oil every three months or after every 3,000 miles. If you often drive around in hot or dusty conditions, you might even want to change oil more often than that.

The process is pretty simple, and as easy as one-two-three. Step one is getting ready, step two is draining the oil and changing the oil filter while step three is installing the new oil.

(1) Getting Ready

When getting ready, it is important to have the right tools and materials on hand, such as jack stands, a socket set and an oil drain pan. Let your car engine run for 10 minutes before you drain the oil since warm oil is easier to drain than cold. Make sure you park on a level surface or, if your car has a low clearance, jack it up or drive it onto a ramp. If youre jacking up the car, use two jack stands instead of one. (An additional jack costs about $20 and that is a small price to pay to spare your face from being squished by a badly balanced car.) You might want to check your cars manual about the weight of oil and type of oil filter you need to use.

(2) Draining the Oil and Changing the Oil Filter

To drain the oil, crawl under the car and look for the oil drain plug under the engine near the front of the car. Position your pan beneath the plug then use a socket wrench to loosen the plug, turning counterclockwise. Once loosened, you can use your hand to remove the plug and the hot oil starts pouring out. Make sure all the old oil is drained into the pan. Once its completely drained, wipe the drain plug and the plug opening. Now replace the drain plug gasket and use a wrench to reinstall the plug but dont make it too tight.

Next, look for the oil filter. They are usually at the side of the engine. Place the oil pan beneath the filter in case any oil remains. Unscrew the oil filter (use gloves if it is too hot) and wipe the filter area clean, especially where it mounts to the engine. Dab a bit of your new oil on the rubber seal of the new filter and then screw it in by hand. You dont have to use a wrench to tighten the oil filter.

(3) Installing New Oil

Remove the oil filler cap thats located at the top of the engine. Position the funnel at the opening and slowly start pouring in the new oil You might want to check your manual for the proper oil capacity but, typically, you will need four or five quarts of oil. Once youre done, put back the oil filler cap. Start the engine, let it run for a minute and then check the dipstick. If you need to, add more oil. Now check for any leaks near the oil drain plug and the filter. If you do find leaks, simply tighten the plug or oil filter.

Youre done. But dont forget to clean up. Carefully wipe away any excess oil and put the old oil into a plastic container then dispose of it. Dont just pour it anywhere, though. Better to take it to the recycle center or other authorized locations.

In a world where people rely heavily on diesel-powered engines to perform many functions for both agriculture and other known industries, it no longer comes as a surprise if there is a limited supply of derivatives of diesel fuels with traces of petroleum.

Besides the (over)exhaustion of reserves of petroleum fuels, improbability in petroleum sources and supply because of certain economic and political reasons inspired many to look for alternative resources for petroleum-based fuel sources like diesel.

You’ve heard of vegetable oil, animal fat, and recycled cooking oil being used as fuel nowadays. These are what you call Biodiesel.

>From the word itself, biodiesel is an alternative to diesel fuel made from renewable or organic sources such as the ones already mentioned above. Biodiesel is produced by means of a reaction between an animal fat or vegetable oil and ethanol or methanol with a certain catalyst. Biodiesel appears as and used as either in its pure form or can be mixed with diesel to be utilized by diesel engines - a petroleum-based biodiesel. Both have yields of glycerin and biodiesel, which are chemically known as asters of methanol and ethanol.

The following presents the major advantages of using biodiesel:

1. It is non-hazardous and biodegradable. 2. It can readily be used in modern types of diesel engines. 3. It is a much more efficient as compared to fuel cells. 4. Thus, it can eliminate the huge allocation of reconstructing major fuel distribution factories and companies.

On the note of producing biodiesel extracts on a macro scale basis, two steps are usually considered:

1. Growing of alternative feed stocks.

Oilseed crops (and animal lipids) are well known sources of biodiesel because of their oil content.

Interestingly, recent programs have been funded to research on the feasibility of using algal species as feedstocks for biodiesel extracts. In fact, there are noted species of algae from which you can extract larger amounts of oil. The same species also grow at very fast rates so production would definitely be efficient. Moreover, most of these species use less water for cultivation, unlike oilseed crops.

Another advantage of using algae as a source of biodiesel is that the species also grow best in salty water, so farms could be built near the ocean without desalinating seawater.

With recent development regarding algae research, that concern is completely obliterated since it was noted that algae could survive in either a hot desert or within areas near waste streams.

Processing the feedstock into biodiesel. This step would be best accomplished by present oil refineries around the world, which are being converted to biodiesel refineries and by new companies building state-of-the-art plants.

Environmentally speaking, the use of biodiesel is basically not alarming. However, further researches regarding on biodiesel producing alternatives should be ventured upon to facilitate a more feasible large-scale biodiesel production.

Clearly, a less important concern - for the moment—than Ford Windstar recalls might be what Levine Breaking News reported March 14, 2006: an anti-gay/conservative Christian group are seeking retribution by boycotting Ford Motors…because Ford advertises in gay publications.

Tell me when did we give up the right to spend our hard-earned money on costly advertising, top-class merchandise, and any ^%$# publication we wish to read, write for, subscribe to, publicize in, or be a demographic target for? Okay. Hold on. Before I get all involved in who has what - ahem - RIGHTS, I should calm down, digress, and recoup to the more significant concern or issue: Ford Winstar recalls. There are several of them, that vary from safety and other recall issues (and usually getting increasingly lessened by year), but a mention here will suffice, as other investigations thoroughly cover by describing and explaining.

FORD WINDSTAR RECALLS, 2003

-Seats: mid- and rear-assembly

FORD WINDSTAR RECALLS, 2002

-Seats: mid- and rear-assembly

FORD WINDSTAR RECALLS, 2001

- Mid- and rear-seat assembly - Windshield wiper/washer motor - Electrical system: air conditioner - Air bags frontal sensor control module - Accelerator pedal - Seat belt assembly - Trailer hitch

FORD WINDSTAR RECALLS, 2000

- Structure: body/hood - Vehicle speed control: accelerator pedal - Glass: side- and rear-view mirrors - Electrical wiring under dash - Electrical system wiring; windshield wiper/washer motor - Seat belts - Trailer hitch

FORD WINDSTAR RECALLS, 1999

- Structure: body/hood - Hydraulic brake foundation: hoses, lines, piping, fittings - Master cylinder - Electrical: air conditioning system; interior/under dash wiring - Windshield wiper/washer motor

FORD WINDSTAR RECALLS, 1998

- Structure: body/hood - Hydraulic brake foundation: hoses, lines, piping, fittings - Front wheel suspension springs and coils - Automatic trans/power train - Exterior lighting - Steering: gear box/shaft - Child seat

FORD WINDSTAR RECALLS, 1997

- Hydraulic brake foundation: hoses, lines, piping, fittings - Front wheel suspension springs and coils - Automatic trans/power train - Exterior lighting

FORD WINDSTAR RECALLS, 1996

- Structure: body/hood - Automatic trans/power train/gear position indication - Exterior lighting - Hydraulic brake foundation: hoses, lines, piping, fittings - Front wheel suspension springs and coils

FORD WINDSTAR RECALLS, 1995

- Structure: body/hood - Electrical system wiring - Hydraulic brake foundation: hoses, lines, piping, fittings - Front wheel suspension springs and coils - Alternator/generator - Gasoline storage tank assembly

With all of or despite all the recalls, I am still a huge Ford fan—having brought up around, in, and looking at and listening to hot rods and trucks made by Ford Motor Corp.. What’s more, I would still fight for the right to sell, buy, advertise, drive, think about or talk about any damned material item I please. Go Ford!

Learning a little more about how to better care for your vehicles is a good idea for any number of reasons. It allows you to know if an unscrupulous mechanic is attempting to gouge you on your repairs – and that will save you money. It can prevent you from making unnecessary repairs – and that will save you money. It can help you locate a problem and fix it early, thus saving more money – sometimes a whole lot of money. It allows you to be more independent in an era where people are entirely too dependent on others to survive.

We need to get started now, so that we have time to cover everything…

First, do a visual check of your vehicle. The following will assist you in where to look, and for what:

•Look at your tires. Do they look low? A tire pressure gauge, available inexpensively at any discount store of auto parts store will help you make sure tire pressure stays dead on. Maintain as necessary. Better tire pressures will make your vehicle safer, and more fuel efficient. There are some very inexpensive air pumps for sale at discount stores – should you really want to stay on top of air pressure in your tires. Motorcyclists and moped riders need to be exceptionally concerned about their tire pressures.

•Look closely at your tires and inspect for severely worn edges, areas missing chunks of rubber, or objects sticking into the tire. Maintain or replace as necessary. If your tires are relatively new, and they seem to be wearing unevenly, take you vehicle into the shop for an alignment, and likely a tire rotation. These two things are frequently lumped together in less costly automotive service “specials.”

•Look under the vehicle for liquids. One drop usually means nothing. Look for consistent drip marks. Remember that during summer months your vehicle’s air conditioning will steadily drip water when in use – no worries. Your coolant system may also spew an occasional bit of water/anti-freeze, and that’s okay too. If you find a stain indicating long-term or consistent leaking, trace the leak to its source: engine oil, transmission fluid, rear end oil, etc. Maintain or repair as necessary. Sometimes, just getting under the vehicle with a pressure hose at the car wash will clean off years of old oil and debris that causes many ‘driveway’ leaks – thus fixing the faux leak.

•Visually check your engine oil. Check it according to the manufacturer’s instructions, and also feel it with your fingers. Engine oil is the life blood of your vehicle’s power plant. Does the oil feel thick, or does it feel watery. Thick is good, watery is bad! Change watery oil (and be sure to use an Engine Sentry when you do change oil and filter). Add the appropriate oil if the level registers low. NEVER overfill your oil!

•Check the coolant level. Be sure to use caution, and follow the manufacturer’s instructions to avoid injury from hot, pressurized liquids. Maintain as necessary. If you haven’t had your coolant/anti-freeze checked lately, it might be advisable. Be sure to never add coolant or anti-freeze that is not recommended by your vehicle’s manufacturer. Some radiators require special products so as not to erode or corrode them.

•Visually check your engine compartment. Tighten caps, firmly tug/test hose connections, look for worn things, things that have blown into the engine compartment, etc. Maintain or repair as necessary. This is also a good time to do light engine cleaning. Nothing too serious, just some rags and some degreaser: ammonia and water make a cheap, great degreaser, but it shouldn’t be used on aluminum – certainly not left on it. A toothbrush is also an excellent tool here – it makes quick work of much engine debris.

•Visually check your automotive battery and connections. Make sure the connections feel tight at the battery. If you have green or white build-up on the battery, mix some baking soda with tepid water (1/4-cup of baking soda to one quart of water) and stir it thoroughly. Now, slowly pour it directly over the affected areas. Don’t worry about all the fizzing and crackling – it’s just cleaning. Make sure you do this where the runoff won’t harm anything. An old toothbrush will make this go faster. When the terminals are clean and dry, apply a thin coating of automotive grease onto each battery terminal, and connection. Automotive grease comes in small, plastic tubs that weigh about a pound each. They’re cheap, so get a good brand name. I use popsicle sticks to spread it with. Grease is good to have around for many automotive fixes and preventive maintenance actions.

Okay, you’ve completed the first steps of becoming a full-fledged automotive diagnostician – or something like that, anyway. You’ve definitely gotten your vehicle in much better condition, and you should have learned a thing or two. Keep an eye out for part II – Hear No Evil, and Part III – Smell No Evil.

Engine Sentry is a registered trademark of Iron Horseman Technologies. Iron Horseman Technologies is the trademark of Iron Horseman Technologies in Tucson, Arizona.

Learning a little more about how to better care for your vehicles is a good idea for any number of reasons. It allows you to know if an unscrupulous mechanic is attempting to gouge you on your repairs – and that will save you money. It can prevent you from making unnecessary repairs – and that will save you money. It can help you locate a problem and fix it early, thus saving more money – sometimes a whole lot of money. It allows you to be more independent in an era where people are entirely too dependent on others to survive.

We need to get started now, so that we have time to cover everything…

Some people are incredibly sensitive to the sounds their vehicles make. This is especially true of motorcyclists, those who refurbish vintage automobiles, and experienced mechanics. It’s a very worthwhile skill to develop. There are mechanics who can listen to a running car engine and tell if the timing is slightly off, or the injectors are not operating properly. While this is a very neat thing to be able to do, you do not have to elevate your listening skills to that lofty place in order to get benefits from listening to your vehicle.

Listen To the Engine (This is best done in relatively quiet surroundings until you get really good at it.) Open up the hood of your vehicle’s engine compartment. If necessary on your model, be sure to use the metal rod to lock the hood in the upright/open position. Now, start your engine. Allow the engine to run for 30-60 seconds before you start listening too hard. Also, there are many moving parts inside of engine compartments, don’t wear loose clothing, and mind all your fingers and hair! Safety first.

A brief word about engine sounds… All engines make sounds. Some sound like jets, and other have constant clicking noises, or humming, or clattering. Which sounds are consistently made, and are okay, are unique to your specific vehicle’s engine. The point being, don’t be alarmed the first time you really take a good listen to your engine. You’ll quickly learn the sounds that are okay, and the ones that are not.

You’re going to listen to your engine from three different positions: 1) Directly in front of the car. 2) On the left (driver’s side) side of the engine compartment. 3) On the right (passenger’s side) side of the engine compartment. I like to start I like to start on the left – right in front of the driver’s door.

Lean over the engine compartment (again – be careful with clothing, hair, and appendages) and listen carefully. Try closing your eyes to heighten your hearing. Listen for things that don’t sound ‘right.’ Such things might include: clattering, metal rubbing metal, clanging, and squeaks. If you hear such a thing, open your eyes and try to focus in on it – moving the position of your head and ears as your track the sound to its source. Repeat this process at all three positions previously described.

This method of checking your engine can reveal loose caps, loose fan belts, loose fans, missing bolts, nuts, and many other things. Correct what you are able to, and have anything else dealt with by a service technician. Don’t put your hands into your engine compartment to tighten something or check something while it is running. If you notice that the stays on the overflow tube are loose and rattling, turn off the engine before tightening.

Driving your car for a short distance over a good road with the radio and air conditioning off and the windows down is a good way to hear some other sounds. Clattering might mean you have a lug nut that came off, and it’s stuck inside the hubcap. A metal-rubbing-metal sound may be a stuck brake.

The last listening project/technique is the best – or at least so people tell me. This one requires a willing and able assistant. The two of you climb into the vehicle together – you drive, the assistant rides shotgun. The assistant will require four things: some WD-40, a notepad, a small can of 3-in-1 oil, and a good rag. Head for a road that isn’t so smooth, and simply drive along. The assistant listens for those irritating squeaks, squeals, and rattles.

The assistant should move around inside the vehicle, focusing on the sounds to locate their sources. One of the two lubricants will fix almost any squeaking – and the rag ensures a nice, tidy application of the chosen lubricant. Some things, such as loose or missing screws or bolts, should be recorded on the notepad for maintenance or repair later, when you get back home to the tools. You won’t believe how quiet your cockpit becomes after you perform this process once or twice.

Okay, you’ve completed another step in becoming a full-fledged automotive diagnostician – or something like that, anyway. You’ve definitely gotten your vehicle in much better condition, and you should have learned a thing or two. Check out Part I – See No Evil, and Part III – Smell No Evil.

Learning a little more about how to better care for your vehicles is a good idea for any number of reasons. It allows you to know if an unscrupulous mechanic is attempting to gouge you on your repairs – and that will save you money. It can prevent you from making unnecessary repairs – and that will save you money. It can help you locate a problem and fix it early, thus saving more money – sometimes a whole lot of money. It allows you to be more independent in an era where people are entirely too dependent on others to survive.

We need to get started now, so that we have time to cover everything…

It may sound strange that smelling your vehicle can be a useful maintenance activity, but believe me it is. And I’m not just talking about needing to buy one of those cute little green trees that permeate every inch of your vehicle’s interior with the smell of pine – or something like that. Actually, you really already do this in at least one instance – the smell of gasoline. And we’ll cover that herein.

Let’s begin with the smell of smoke. If your vehicle is smoking anywhere at any time it’s time to get some service – immediately. It doesn’t matter if you smell the smoke, or see it – you need to deal with the problem ASAP. Smoke coming from anywhere is never ‘okay’ in a vehicle, though you may just have some spilled fluids on a hot engine surface, or some oil that splashed into your wheel assembly. No matter – get it checked and make sure.

The smell of gas is most often associated with a flooded engine: too much gas for the spark to ignite. The gas sits in the engine, and the odor becomes more noticeable for a short time, and then starts to rapidly dissipate. This tends to happen only when you are starting the engine. The smell of gas at any other time, or the constant smell of gas is indicative of another type of problem, and one that is potentially serious, or dangerous: a leak in the fuel system. You should have this checked out by a qualified mechanic as soon as possible.

The smell of rotten eggs, usually associated with sulfur or burning sulfur, is likely a problem with your catalytic converter. Servicing a catalytic converter is highly technical, and will require the attention of a trained technician or mechanic. You should make an appointment for your vehicle as soon as possible. A maladjusted or failing catalytic converter can be costing you precious mileage!

The smell of burning bread, sometimes referred to as ‘burnt toast,’ is most often associated with an electrical short circuit or possibly the burning/melting of the insulation around the affected wires, fuses, or connections. If there are any secondary signs, then you should not run the engine until a qualified technician resolves the issue. Left unchecked, electrical shorts can affect many of the systems in your vehicle.

A sweet odor, especially when mixed with the smell of hot rubber, usually means there’s a coolant leak, or a problem with the cooling system. If you are driving, stop and visually check the engine and the radiator. Driving a vehicle with an overheated engine can do untold damage to all sorts of things, and turn a simple repair with a modest cost into a nightmarish expense that prevents you from using your vehicle for days, or even weeks.

The smell of burning oil is a pungent, acrid stench that can be very slight, or quite pronounced. In either case, you need to check your engine to make sure you don’t have an oil leak, and also to ensured that you have the recommended amount of oil in your engine. Usually, the smell of burning oil is something minor, such as a small spill on the engine, a slight overflow that got blown onto a hot engine part, or low engine oil. Be sure that when you change your engine oil you insist on an Engine Sentry®.

Okay, you’ve completed the final step in becoming a full-fledged automotive diagnostician – or something like that, anyway. You’ve definitely gotten your vehicle in much better condition, and you should have learned a thing or two to keep it running great for a long time to come. If you haven’t already, check out Part I – See No Evil, and Part II – Hear No Evil.

A tachometer is a measuring device with the purpose of measuring the speed of a circular plate or disk, or sometimes of a shaft. The word comes from the Greek words meaning speed (tachos) and measure (metron).

A tachometer is typically used in measurement of engine speed in an automotive engine, but was originally used to describe centrifugal force. The German engineer Dietrich Uhlhorn is believed to be the inventor of the tachometer. His interest was in measuring the speed of machines. The use of the tachometer in measuring the speed of locomotives has been common since about 1940, and it is also used in measurements of light rail axle speeds.

The early tachometers were entirely mechanical, but it is interesting to note that the modern day version relies entirely on electronic measurements to register as part of a computerized system. Find more info at http://www.tachometerworld.info

For instance, the tachometer, although described in revolutions per minute (RPM’s) is actually derived in older vehicles from impulses recorded from the low tension side of the ignition coil. Engines which have no ignition system, such as diesel engines, measure the alternator output voltage. In neither case is the engine actually “revolving”, although the pistons perform a somewhat circular dance, when in operation.

Originally, tachometers were used to register and display the range where the engine could be safely operated. To “red line” an engine meant to run the engine at a dangerously high speed. The theory was that over racing the engine would lead to excessive wear and damage to the equipment. Even knowing the possibility of engine damage was never enough to prevent the sound of “revving up” the engine as an invitation to drag race, or perhaps just to let others know that your engine was “hot”

In modern engines, a rev limiter prevents damage due to engine speed over safe levels.

O.K. you’re patting yourself on the back for all of the homework you’ve done on your perspective car that you are going to buy… so you’re fired up and ready to go… right?

It’s great that you’ve done much homework on the car that you’ve got your eye on… good job. But, consider this – have you given any thought at all as to what your negotiating game plan is going to be? If you really want to maximize your car deal, it only makes sense to give this area some additional consideration.

Negotiating is skill that can be learned and gets better with practice. Throughout everyone’s life – first as children then as parents – negotiation occurs rather regularly. Now that you’re looking at stepping onto a car dealership, you shouldn’t suddenly feel as though you’ve never been involved in negotiations… I’ll bet that you have.

First and foremost, plan to succeed. Simple thought I know, but it is part of the preparation. If you go into the process thinking that you would really like to get the selling price down to a certain figure, but at the same time you’re telling yourself that this probably won’t happen… then guess what… it won’t. You won’t have the confidence, and the sales person or sales manager will get work on your shaky expectations and get you off your target price.

Be mindful of the other hand though. If you go into the car selling price negotiating process like the proverbial ‘bull in a china shop’ you’ll probably trip the sales person’s and the sales manager’s hot button and they will push back just as vigorously creating a negotiating chasm.

The key as a polished negotiator is to stay calm and pleasant and present win-win scenarios.

Secondly – Be prepared. Don’t go into any type of transaction such as buying a car unprepared. Don’t just know about the car and what you want your car to come with – know what each of these options cost… don’t guess or assume… There is profit to be negotiated upon across the board at any given dealership. Knowledge is confidence, and sales people will pick up on the fact that you know of which you talk and this will significantly cut down on the sales b.s.

Next – Leave yourself wiggle room inside your cocoon of happiness target. In other words never start with the price you want to pay. Remember, by definition here we are negotiating with another person… if you start with the price you want to pay; you’ll have no choice but to negotiate your way up and out of it. So, if you’re will to spend say $15,000 then start at $14,000 and work to create a win-win somewhere in between. And, oh by the way… no one in the dealership other than you has or will have NO IDEA of what you’re willing to pay.

Here’s a bonus tip – if the sales person kicks off the negotiations with the first offer, don’t counter with a number… that’s right no counter number… instead counter back with a pleasant … “I’m afraid that’s somewhat beyond my budget” … make them come back with another offer to get you in the game. Now you just gotten a newer offer and you haven’t even jumped in yet. The first offer from the dealer is usually their ‘home run’ swing… they don’t really expect you to serve yourself up at this point (although some do… and hence the home run in profit).

Keep in that this is not a one way street. You’ll have to participate and make some concessions in order for your deal to be a winner. For instance, if you can’t get to the selling price you want then get more for your trade, get an extended warranty at dealer cost, get some no cost service or oil changes, floor mats, … anything that keeps the deal moving forward and the negotiations open… don’t get hung up on ‘beating you opponent’ over just one aspect of the deal.

This is where many people get frustrated and either walk away after getting so close or just give in as a result of the frustration. Negotiating a car deal is a package not just a selling price. Sure the selling price is the focal point, but you have to give the appearance that you are offering some concession as well. In fact, as your target price get within range, don’t just agree on the price and then begin the delivery process. If you do… you will be in a much weaker position to negotiate any extras you may want such as that extended warranty… you see… make sure all potential aspects of the deal are in place before you shake hands on the price.

Buying import car body kits is easier than ever thanks to the internet. Customizing import cars is moving away from being a hobby toward becoming a big business. Import car body kits can include many things, including spoilers, wings, skirts and air dams. Many kits serve to improve aerodynamics and increase speed, while also making the car look cooler.

There are several factors to consider before making an investment in import car body kits, but first and foremost is the kind of material you want, fiberglass or urethane. Both materials have their advantages. Fiberglass is the preferred type because it usually provides a superior fit and is also easily repaired. Be aware that not all fiberglass import car body kits are created equal; don’t save money by buying low-quality sprayed fiberglass.

Sprayed fiberglass often winds up giving you uneven quality prone to brittle sections that can result in both problems with the fit and breakage. Those who choose the urethane kits prefer it, however, because it is a little tougher and hold up to minor impacts better than fiberglass. This is important because if it does get damaged, it’s almost impossible to repair. Another word of advice: Fiberglass import car body kits are unquestionably the better choice if you plan on a customized paint job.

Import car body kits may sound like a DIY job, but unless you have some experience or are just blessed with natural abilities when it comes to do-it-yourself projects, the actual installation is probably best left to a professional or at least an amateur whose work you have actually seen.

The best way to find someone to install import car body kits is probably to ask someone who already had a body kit installed. Ideally, attending an import car show would probably be your best bet; you’ll likely find not only owners with body kits, but some of the guys who make a living installing them. Unfortunately, not everybody has access to a car show. Next on the list would be hitting the internet.

Import car body kits are always a hot topic of conversation on the import car forums and message boards. The internet is a primary source for information on the import car scene because enthusiasts love to show off their stuff. Take a few hours to look around and you’ll not only find images of the kind of body kit that you want, but also vital information on problems, modification tips and hints, and even the names and phone numbers of qualified installers.

There is one single piece of advice you can expect to get from just about everyone. There is very nearly unanimous agreement anyone getting import car body kits installed should also get it painted at the same time. The reason given for this advice has nothing to do with saving money, or body protection or anything like that; this advice is given to protect the drivers from ridicule. Apparently, it is the ultimate in uncool to drive around in unpainted import car body kits.

On December 10th in the year 1868, the first traffic signal light was placed into service. The bulky, primitive device employed colored lamps that were fueled by gas for use after dark, and semaphore arms. It required an operator to attend it at all times that it was in use. Twenty three days after that first traffic signal light went into service, it exploded – injuring the police officer who was assigned to run the lights and signals. This unfortunate event brought into question the practicality of implementing traffic signal lights.

Despite the volatility, and ultimately disastrous results, of using the first traffic signal light, stalwart inventors and engineers pursued the idea. As more and more traffic amassed on streets and roadways, the use of stop signs and officers standing on boxes at intersections became less and less practical – and more and more dangerous.

Sometime around 1912 the first electric traffic signal was put into use. These initial units only had red and green lights, however. In 1917 in Salt Lake City, Utah, a series of traffic lights were linked together, thus ‘connecting’ six sequential intersections. This system was operated manually with a single switch.

In 1922 Garrett A. Morgan made application for a patent on a traffic signal light of his own design. The patent was granted the following year. This started the myth that Morgan was the inventor of the traffic light.

Between the time the first traffic lights were introduced, and the early 1960’s many improvements were made, and many experiments conducted. The biggest problem with traffic signals to that point was simply that they were dependent on timers only. East-west traffic would get a green light for 3-minutes, and then a timer would trigger a green light for the north-south traffic – and so on. The lengths of time could be adjusted, but these settings frequently created problems with the flow of traffic.

In the early 1960’s traffic engineers started to implement “inductive loops” to control intersection traffic flow. The loops, which could detect vehicles in specific lanes at intersections controlled the lights’ timers. The inductive loops would switch the lights to accommodate the traffic at hand, based on the time of day. No more sitting at red traffic lights for 2-3-4 or 5 minutes - even if there was no cross-traffic present. Traffic engineers basked in a deluge of praise from drivers.

In the 1970’s technological advances in metallurgy, plastics, and rubber started changing the way vehicles were manufactured – and what they were being manufactured with. No longer was everything from the dashboard to the fenders made of high-iron content steels. It was in conjunction with these advances that the myths of tripping traffic lights began. Since then, it has gotten worse every year as more alloys, plastics, and rubber are used in the construction of vehicles.

It seemed logical that the amount of weight present at an intersection is what would trigger a green light. This is a myth. It also seemed logical that the mass present at an intersection would trigger a green light. This is also a myth. Since people were unable to make traffic lights trip by adding weight, or by having more mass to their vehicles, they started to seek other answers. The last most popular myth is that there is an invisible curtain that, when broken by a vehicle, triggers a green light. It is thought that the curtains only cover a portion of the lane, and if you do not violate the curtain, you don’t get the green light. This is also a myth.

Actually, inductive loop technology is very simple. An inductive loop is nothing but a very large, very weak electromagnet. The term ‘inductive loop’ refers to electromagnets used in industry to detect iron. They are commonly used in numerous industrial applications. They are inexpensive to make, install and maintain.

Inductive loops at traffic lights are created by burying large coils of thin copper wire slightly beneath the road’s surface. The wires are covered with either black tar or rubber. A small current runs through the wire, thus making it into an electromagnet. The loop is connected to a meter which measures changes inside the loop. Magnets react to iron – not plastic or rubber or aluminum. So when enough iron is present within the loop, the traffic light cycles to green.

The vehicles that have the greatest trouble tripping lights are motorcycles and mopeds, followed by small cars and trucks, and then raised 4×4s and SUVs. Drivers of these vehicles often sit undetected at traffic lights wasting fuel, getting rained on, their engines overheating, and their irritation growing.

To positively trigger your green lights, you can drag a bowling ball-sized piece of iron around on the ground – but that won’t work if it’s inside your trunk. That’s too far from the weak sensing field of the loop. In the trunk, you’ll need two or three large iron balls. OR you can install a Signal Sorcerer® traffic light changer http://signalsorcerer.com/.

Signal Sorcerer® traffic light changers use their own technology to make inductive loops detect your vehicle – no matter what size, weight, or mass it is. Simply install the Signal Sorcerer® under your vehicle, and the inductive loops that control traffic lights will detect your vehicle, and give you the green light!

Signal Sorcerer® requires no power, lasts a lifetime, is legal everywhere, installs in less than five minutes without any tools, and is completely guaranteed. Signal Sorcerer® traffic light changers have been in use around the world for years, and units are available for every application including police motorcycle divisions, security vehicles, fleet vehicles, and personal conveyances.