Used car prices are elusive, despite numerous attempts to harness them. We’ve all heard of Retail, Private Party and Trade-in values. But do these “help” in determining a vehicle’s real value? When we turn to the web for prices, it gets even more elusive. One web site places a retail value on a car at $18,000. Another puts it at $21,000. What should we believe?

If sellers are looking to get the highest price for the car they’re selling, and the buyer wants to get the best deal possible, is there such thing as a fair used car price for both parties?

The answer is yes, but both parties have to be on the same page.

We’ll call this “page” Fair Market Value.

That being said, how do we interpret the market to determine fair market value? Since most sellers and buyers are going to try to interpret the market to his or her advantage, let’s even the playing field.

One of the most profound remarks I’ve heard to establish a better playing field for used car pricing comes from industry expert and owner of Medway Imports, Barry Roth. He states:

“To find market value, you need to take all the pricing data you find for a particular vehicle and throw out the high and low prices. What’s left in the middle is where you’ll find a fair market value.”

While this doesn’t address the used car pricing problem entirely, it does remove the unrealistic numbers that many clutch to like the drowning to a life preserver. It moves folks to more reasonable prices according to the market.

A lot of time is spent on popular web sites (for better or worse) to “help” determine used car pricing. But one should also follow and watch the market to see what cars are being advertised and sold for—if they’re being sold at all.

Used car prices are also determined via auction pricing, and industry used car guides such as Black Book and the NADA Official Used Car Guide.

Importantly, even these books don’t settle the used car pricing debate. Here’s a publisher’s note on the inside cover of the latest NADA guide.

It states:

The vehicle values in the N.A.D.A OFFICIAL USED CAR GUIDE,® are developed by N.A.D.A’s editors based on many sources of information. These include reports of actual transactions throughout each area for which the guide is published.

The values in this guide assume a vehicle is clean. Appropriate deductions should be made for reconditioning costs incurred to put the vehicle in a salable condition. An exceptionally clean vehicle or one that bears a guarantee, warranty, or manufacturer certification should bring a premium price.

Please read your guide carefully when determining the value of optional equipment. N.A.D.A.’s editors believe that most optional equipment has little or no value on older cars. This is especially true of options that cost relatively little when new and which deteriorate with age or use. Only the more popular vehicle options are listed in the guide. Unless otherwise stated, all vehicles are assumed to be equipped with automatic transmission, air conditioning, compact disc player (and/or AM/FM stereo cassette,) power steering, rear window defroster, and tilt steering wheel. For other standard options, please review each vehicle’s listing.

As you can see, even the most respected used car pricing guide “assumes” quite a bit, leaning heavily on the “opinions” of its editors to determine “appropriate deductions” and thus the ultimate value of a particular car.

So where does this leave car buyers and car sellers? After both parties throw out the high and low prices, it leaves them in the middle of the market. This is where they’ll each get a fair shake(assuming vehicles are “clean”). Finding and picking a good or “clean” car is another story.

Eighty percent of car buyers are using the Internet to research cars and used car prices. For vehicle research, the Internet’s great! For vehicle prices, the Internet sucks! It sucks because the prices do not reflect reality for the buyer or the seller. Web sites that place values on vehicles have created more confusion than ever.

“My car’s worth $25,800.” “I looked up used car prices on the web and my vehicle’s worth twenty grand.” I hear quotes like these everyday. I wish, for the customer’s sake, that the values are real. By “real” I mean a viable number according to market value.

As hard as it is to accept, even for me as a dealer, what we think a car is worth, and what it’s actually worth according to “market value” is often drastically different.

To find a vehicle’s value the context must first be discussed. What’s context?

Context includes, but is not limited to:

1) Vehicle condition: mileage, maintenance, 1-owner…etc 2) Desirability: new model, special editions, just plain cool… 3) Seasonality: plow trucks, convertibles, 4-wheel drive…etc 4) The Economy: factory incentives, gas prices, hybrids, SUVs 5) Location: Beverly Hills versus the Bronx

Now, each of the above context variables could easily have several sub categories. For example…

Vehicle condition is extremely relative. One person may think there vehicle is perfect, someone else states it needs $1000 worth of work.

Desirability is also relative. A bunch of very cool bells and whistles may not add any value, or it may add $1000’s.

Seasonality is relative. A convertible in the summer has more value than one during a Chicago winter. A plow truck in June will have significantly less value than in November in the northeast.

Economic recessions, exorbitant gas prices, combined with manufacturer incentives can shift new and used car prices all over the map.

Location has a major effect on used car prices. A convertible in California is worth more than one located in Canada.

To summarize, context funnels down to market value. Web sites such as Edmunds, NADA, and Kelley have drastically missed this mark, creating a host misinformation. To be fair, these are great research sites, but they can not be the final say on price.

Stating that a vehicle is worth a certain amount of money based on a web site’s data does not take the above factors into account. It’s a value based on misinformation.

These web sites have created an aura of trust when in actuality, the values are mythical. The market is the real indicator of vehicle worth—for better or worse.

What should one do? Buyers and sellers would be wise to follow the market. Check out autotrader.com, cars.com, and/or *ebaymotors.com and watch what vehicles are being advertised and sold for. While these sites are not the final word either, they’re much more accurate than web sites leaning heavily on opinion and averages.

Note: eBay used car pricing is generally wholesale. In other words, it would not be accurate to compare a wholesale-priced eBay car (which may need a significant amount of reconditioning) to a retail-priced vehicle in showroom and/or perfect working condition.

In the end, and this come straight from industry expert, Barry Roth, “Take the highest price and the lowest price you find on the Internet and throw them out. The remaining numbers in the middle is where one should wade. But don’t forget value. Price is one thing—value is the real key to a great car”

For more on used car values visit www.medwayimports.com/

When you have made a solid decision about which type of car will best fit your needs, it is time to zero in on the details. You will have to decide on specifics like, make, model, color, options and more.

Of course we all would like to own a car that we have chosen every last bit of detail for, be it an unusual paint job or something as practical as an ABS system.

However the more leeway you are willing to give on your preferences, the better your chances are of making a great deal on your car purchase. There’s no need to sacrifice any options that are absolutely necessary to ensure your safety and comfort while on the road, but if you are willing to be flexible as to what color and accessories are included in the package, you may just find a more reasonable deal and certainly more options to choose from. This will give you more leverage when it comes time to bargain for the final price of the automobile.

Let’s put it this way: say you have very strict requirements about your chosen car’s paintjob and rims. Or perhaps you just have to have that expensive and esoteric car stereo system. What are the chances that your car dealer has a car on stock with those exact same specifications? Fairly slim actually and if they do have what you want in stock, chances are you will have no other choice but to pay the price the dealer is asking for. Either that or find another car dealer who does carry your chosen model in stock but is willing to lower the price.

Of course if you do find the model you want with the specifications you want, you wouldn’t want the dealer to know that so you can proceed with the negotiation as if you were just not that particular about the little details.

You may want to call several car dealerships in your area and ask about your chosen car model. This will give you an idea how much of them are available so you can then plan your bargaining strategy accordingly. Keep track of the results you gather from your inquiries; make notes detailing the name and contact information of the dealer and what line of cars they carry. This will help you get a clearer picture of all the options available to you when you make your final decision.

The art of negotiation is a tricky, possibly long drawn-out matter and sometimes you are never really sure you got the best deal even after you’ve walked away from the bargaining table.

If you are like most buyers, you probably have a good idea of how much you are willing to spend and would like to settle the issue of cost even better you go to the dealer to check out the car. Indeed, since the advent of the Internet, most companies are even willing to quote you the actual retail price sight unseen, over the phone or perhaps through e-mail. This is in sharp contrast to only a few years ago when standard practice was to lay on as many enticements as possible to the customer before the actual bargaining started.

Of course chances are, in your inquiries to several different auto dealers or through scanning of the local ads, you may have already encountered a quoted sale price on one or more cars you are interested in. Most online car dealerships in fact, will readily give you the price knowing that this is a crucial factor in your decision to purchase a car from them. What you have to realize though, is that it may still be possible to knock a few dollars off their asking rate.

You may possibly already have a pre-conceived price point at which you are confident that you have scored a great deal. Most people though, are willing to give a little leeway on this issue as long as they feel that they will get a fair price.

The best way to prepare for the inevitable haggling that will take place at your car dealership is by being as informed as possible about current market rates for your chosen car model. Ask around several different dealerships about the car you’re interested in and ask if they offer any added-on value, like free accessories or free service checkups and towing services for example. Each dealer is different but they all have the common goal of selling as many units as possible and many have come up with some interesting solutions to help you part with your money.

Finally remember that it’s not always all about paying as little as possible; you will want to buy a car that you are totally happy with, at a fair price. Take the time to do your research and you will walk away the winner in the deal.

Over the last decade cars have become increasingly reliable. However, large variations in reliability performance do still exist, and reliability is certainly something that should be considered when purchasing a car and deciding whether a warranty is required. A warranty is a type of insurance policy, meaning that if a covered part suffers a mechanical or electrical failure resulting in a breakdown, the warranty will cover the cost of replacement parts and labour. Therefore there is full peace of mind as you know that you will never be left with a huge repair bill to pay.

Warranty Direct and Motoreasy are the two main providers of warranties in the UK. As a price guideline, a 4 year old Peugeot that has traveled 40,000 miles will cost £230 to cover for one year. However, most cars come with a 3 year warranty and if it doesn’t come as standard then many retailers offer a warranty separately. When deciding whether to purchase a warranty separately you need to consider the reliability of your car.

Warranty Direct have gathered data from millions of pounds worth of claims every year to compile the ‘Reliability Index’, a complete guide to the reliability of cars on the road today. One interesting finding is that 25% of cars suffer mechanical failure at some point between its 4th and 5th year on the road, just as the manufacturer’s standard warranty expires. However, huge variations in reliability do exist, as illustrated by our five best and worst performers below.

Ford come in at number 5, with Suzuki and Honda at positions 4 and 3 respectively. Honda with its ‘The Power of Dreams’ slogan appears to live up to its word with a highly reliable range of cars. Mazda comes in second place, with Skoda, perhaps surprisingly, the most reliable car make on the road today. It wasn’t long ago that Skoda was ridiculed for being extremely unreliable and hard on the eye, but they’ve worked intensively on the reliability of their cars. If you’re concerned about being able to drive from one place to another at any time then consider purchasing a Skoda. ‘Practical and exciting. Don’t see that very often’ – it’s certainly practical and is unlikely to let you down.

Moving on to the top 5 list car manufacturers don’t want to be in, Jaguar comes in at number 5. Known more for its looks and performance rather than reliability, many people would see this as a fair trade-off. Land Rover comes in as the 4th most unreliable car. Derided as a car that is unpractical and unnecessary for city roads it also appears that it is unreliable. With the huge increase in taxes in the UK planned for high polluting vehicles a hard time could be in store for the Land Rover. Next up is Subaru, followed by the Jeep in second position. The jeep was really designed for off-road pursuits so perhaps it isn’t surprising to see it struggling in the reliability stakes as they weren’t originally designed for the roads. Finally, the most unreliable car on the road today is Porsche. If a Porsche is your only mode of transport you may want to consider purchasing another more reliable car or certainly a warranty. Whilst it is a high-performance car Lexus have shown that you can be fast and reliable, as they came in as the 6th most reliable car make on the road.

Therefore if you’re looking for a car purely to get you from one place to another consider purchasing a Skoda. If you’re concerned about performance, speed, and looks then Lexus are certainly worth considering.

Listing a car on motors” rel=”tag”>eBay Motors has become one of the most popular ways of selling a car. With over 3 million unique visitors to eBay Motors UK each month, a car is sold every two minutes. eBay Motors has a number of distinct advantages over straightforward classified ads, not least the space to fully describe the car, add multiple photos, and the reduced hassle of only having to deal with one buyer, the buyer that wins the auction. Clare Gilmartin, the head of eBay Motors UK, reaffirmed this by saying, “The beauty of eBay Motors is that there’s no need for negotiation and you see the buyers bidding up the price, with sellers often getting more than they expected.” In actual fact, many buyers go on eBay in search for a bargain. Therefore the following guide has been put together to ensure that your car doesn’t become one of those bargains.

The first step is to do your homework. Find out the trade-in value of the car through getting an instant valuation from a website such as wewillbuyyourcar.com. Then use the excellent used car valuation tool on parkers.co.uk. Use these two valuations to identify a fair price for your car. Be sure not to set the reserve price to high, as this will scare off many potential buyers. Often products and cars with lower reserve prices will end up receiving higher bids and a higher final sales price.

Perhaps the most important aspect of selling your car on eBay Motors is the description of the car. There’s a wide choice of cars for sale on eBay so a poor description or missing details will result in people bidding for other cars. Firstly, a picture says a thousand words. Several pictures say even more so be sure to include photos of the tyres and the inside of the car as well. Mention that you have all the relevant documents – the V5 Registration Document, MOT Certificate, and Service History. Also explain your payment terms and whether you offer delivery or collection only.

Aside from the eBay description there are other steps that can be taken to help buyers feel more confident. Consider purchasing an AA Car Data Check. This will provide details of whether the car has been written off, if it has a finance agreement against it, along with a full description of the car, including details such as engine size, fuel type and date of first registration. Mentioning that the AA Car Data Check can be viewed will really help to instill confidence into potential buyers.

Once the auction has begun stay involved in the process of selling your vehicle. Assuming that you’ve accurately described the car and added various photos, only serious buyers will get in contact. Respond to any questions quickly and accurately. Finally, once the auction has been finalised payment must be made. Many people choose to use Escrow.com, eBay Motor’s finance partner, which acts as a secure third party to protect both the buyer and the seller. The buyer pays escrow.com, the car is then collected or delivered, the buyer then checks over the car, after which point Escrow pays the seller.

Generally, making a successful and satisfactory sale on eBay Motors is all about establishing credibility. The feedback score helps but a detailed description, multiple photos, an AA Car Data Check and the use of escrow.com all help greatly to make buyers feel more secure, ultimately encouraging them to bid higher.

Mercedes Benz continues to be one of the most exhilarating cars on the market that can offer you a multi-media experience. There are hundreds of different places you can find Mercedes Benz, and a wide variety of them as well. Whether you are looking for an older classic or a newer state of the art vehicle, you can find what you are looking for. So where do you look to find a Mercedes Benz?

The first part to finding a Mercedes Benz for yourself is determining what kind you would like. Are you looking for a used vehicle or a brand new 2007? If you are looking for a used car, you will probably have better luck looking online for the particular model you want. Car dealerships are best when looking for a newer model because it allows you to test drive the car right then and there.

You’ll also want to consider smaller things when purchasing the car such as color, manual or automatic, and what type of engine it has. All these factors play a role in which dealership or online site is going to have the Mercedes Benz that you are looking for.

If you do not want to take the time to go to a car dealership, you may want to check out Mercedes Benz’s website itself to compare prices and models. This can help you get an idea of exactly what model is best for you. It will also allow you to find a Mercedes Benz within your price budget.

When searching online some of the better places to look for your Mercedes Benz are at automotive.com, autobuyguide.com and CarSmart.com. Searching online is a quick way to find the model you are looking for and get quotes for your area. For some sites like CarSmart.com, you simply place the model of the Mercedes Benz you want along with your zip code. After doing this, you give the website your contact information and then several dealerships will contact you with your request.

This way you have options and can quickly identify which dealerships in your area have the car you are looking for. When you type in the phrase “where to buy a Mercedes Benz” in the Google search bar, there are close to ten and a half million results. By doing so, you can find multiple sites similar to CarSmart.com to receive quotes and find what you are looking for.

Mercedes Benz has been one of the elite car makes around for awhile. Because of the high demand, it is fairly easy to find multiple models that are new and used. By looking online and at dealerships, you should have no problem finding the Mercedes Benz for you.

Auto leasing and the marketing thereof have been somewhat under the radar the past few years due to very low interest rates offered up by lending institutions. For most, the allure of leasing a car has been the advantage of lower monthly payments. With the low financing rates, this advantage has been shifted to traditional financing.

The world of car leasing has a long history of being somewhat less than straightforward. Even now one can find some pretty good deals out there, but the financial process around leasing a car can still be more than a bit confusing. And it’s this confusion that can leave you with a less than warm and fuzzy feeling after your leasing transaction is all said and done.

So, in an effort to avoid or mitigate the confusion when it comes to auto leasing, let’s take a look at some basics.

In auto leasing you are only paying for (in the form of monthly payments) the portion of the car that you use over the life of the lease (the part you use is how much the car depreciates). As part of your monthly payments, you’ll also be paying sales tax and finance charges.

Yes, finance or interest charges. In car leasing vernacular this is known as the ‘money factor’.

What determines how much of the car you will use is the car’s residual value. The residual value is a predetermined number as to what the market value of the car will be at the end of the lease.

For example – if a $20,000 car has a residual value of $11,000 at the end of your 36 month lease – this means that you will have used $9,000 of this car; so your monthly payments will be based on $9,000 over 36 months. As you can see, the better a car holds its residual value or the higher that value is… the more favorable your monthly payments will be.

More often than not the money that you will need to come up with up front is your first monthly payment and a security deposit. Of course, you are more than welcome to put more money down (cap cost reduction) just like when purchasing a car; if you want to lower your monthly payments even more.

The cap cost or capitalization cost is another name for the price of the car you’re looking at. And, just like purchasing, you can and should negotiate the price or in this case the cap cost of the car. In fact, I wouldn’t even disclose the fact that you’re considering leasing until you’ve negotiated and agreed on an actual selling price of the car you’re looking at.

As you see, doing your homework is every bit just as important as and probably more so than when you are actually purchasing the car. Negotiating and leasing a car based solely on achieving a monthly payment is probably the number one reason consumers get stuck paying too much.

Cap cost reduction is almost always negotiable. If a dealer tells you that it is not or unwilling to do so… they are plenty of other vehicles and dealers that offer and will.

We touched on the ‘money factor’ which is the leasing equivalent of the interest rate. Are you getting the best possible ‘money factor’? Just like the purchasing side, the dealer can add points to a money factor just like they can to an interest rate in order to maximize their profit. This is why it is extremely important for you to know your credit score and at what interest rate you qualify for before you even set foot in a dealership or you could really get … well … made love to.

Many factory warranties on vehicles run for 36 months. This is a good reason not to be looking at leasing a car for longer than the factory warranty. In addition, once you get out past 36 months on a car lease, you rapidly start losing the advantage of the residual value since most depreciation occurs early on.

Lastly… well, maybe not lastly when it comes to leasing but lastly within the scope of this article; if you have good credit, or perhaps have been a good or repeat customer, ask the dealer to waive the security deposit and/or the acquisition fee. First of all, they won’t if you don’t ask; and secondly this is certainly a fair request as part of the negotiating process. Worst case they say no. Best case… you save some more of your hard earned money.

Insurance—it’s everywhere. One can insure just about anything. Are tires an investment one needs to insure? Tire insurance, also called a road hazard policy, road hazard warranty, or tire reimbursement plan, is a rapidly growing industry in the automotive world.

Tire warranty plans pay in full or in part for the replacement or repair of damaged tires and/or rims from “road hazards.” Road hazards are defined as pot holes, debris, nails, wood, and other hazards found in the road. Curbs, sidewalks, and stone walls are not road hazards. This is an important distinction to consider when deciding if tire insurance is right for you (discussed further ahead).

Tire plans last for a specific period of time and tire wear tread-depth. Some plans last 2-3 years. Others can last 5 years or 60,000 miles. Several plans come with fixed amounts of coverage: $500 per year up to 4 years. Many contracts require three years of law school to comprehend. In terms of tread depth, a tire is usually considered worn out (and thus the plan null and void) at 2/32 to 3/32 of an inch.

Another important distinction is in the type of plan.

Tire reimbursement plans are just what they say. You, the plan holder, will be reimbursed after the claims process is finalized—usually 2-8 weeks. There is an out-of-pocket expense. These plans are often sold by new car dealerships. The prices can range from $300 to $600 dollars.

Road hazard policies operate similarly to reimbursement plans. However, some tire insurance providers, in partnership with the repair facility, may have a direct-pay relationship. Thus, there would be no out-of-pocket expense, except for applicable deductibles, and items not covered in part or in full. These plans are primarily sold by tire dealers and repairshops. The prices range from $10 to $30 per tire. They also can be based on a percentage of the cost of the tire: usually 12% to 15%.

Both types of plans have a number of variables, requiring a magnifying glass to read the fine print. Also, many are pro-rated warranties, covering only a percentage of the cost of the tire based on its wear.

Claims and Coverage: Depending on the plan, claims are initiated by the repair shop. The process is fairly smooth, although there can be a significant delay from the provider for authorization. This delay may be an hour or an entire weekend. This means that you’ll have to “ok” the tire replacement, and then hope it’s authorized for the full amount, or drive on your spare.

Some plans offer national coverage either among their service facilities or from other repair centers. Claims procedures will vary. Others only provide local coverage, or coverage at the selling facility.

Limitations: Tire insurance does not mean that everything is covered. Pro-rated warranties are based on the wear and tear of the tire. You may get 75%, 50%, or only 10% coverage depending on the tread-depth. You’ll pay the remainder. While there are plans that offer full coverage, even these have limitations, or they may conflict with a repair shop’s policies.

For example, many plans allow for a maximum of $30 to mount and balance one tire, and a maximum of $15 to repair a tire. However, sport tires often have significantly higher mounting and balancing fees—upwards of $50 per tire—and tire repair prices can exceed $90. There are also discrepancies on the tire and rim prices themselves, which in the end, may have to be supplemented by the service customer.

Although there usually is not an issue with the latter given the competitive market, the service center’s price mark up may be unacceptable to the plan provider. In this case, the service center needs to lower the price or you, the service customer, need to pay the difference—or go somewhere else. This does happen!

Rim Prices and Repairs: Rim replacement is becoming less frequent. With the high cost of aluminum wheels and sport wheel packages, tire insurers have opted to have them repaired. Repair will only be done if the rim does not hold air. What this means is that even if the rim is warped—enough to cause a vibration and even premature tire wear—they won’t replace it. Rather, they will send it out to be straightened and repaired.

Rims are replaced only if the damage is so extensive that the new tire, when mounted on the rim, won’t hold air. However, even in this case, especially if it’s an expensive sport wheel, they may still attempt to repair it.

Repairing rims is a bad option. While some rim repair is acceptable, badly warped or damaged rims will in no way ever be the same.

Alignments: If a car hits a road hazard hard enough, such as a pot hole, it’s wise to have the alignment checked. Road hazard policies and tire reimbursement plans do not cover alignments. The service customer will have to pay for this procedure.

Road Hazard Protection Positives: Some plans include tire rotations, wheel balancing, and nationwide coverage.

Myths:

1) “Can I pop all 4 tires and get a new set of tires?”

You can try. But this type of claim will trigger a number of red flags with the insurer. The policy holder will likely send out adjusters and/or require photographs. You will also have a difficult time explaining how a “road hazard” caused all 4 tire pop.

2) “New tires come with a road hazard warranty.”

New tires do come with a warranty by the tire manufacturer. However, it only covers defects in workmanship. New tire warranties do not cover punctures or damages from external sources. This is why “road hazard” protection is being pushed.

New tires are rarely defective. If there is a problem, it’s usually noticed when balancing the tire. Or, there is a drivability concern such as vibration or noise. If there’s a defect it’s generally caught right away, and the tire swapped out.

3) “It’s so cheap; it’s a no-brainer, right?”

Actually, the experts don’t agree with this statement.

The Economics of Tire Warranties: An article from the Washington Post by Terence O’Hara explains the economics of extended warranties and purchase protection plans in general. It is quite fitting for road hazard warranties. He writes:

“The decision to buy an extended warranty…defies the recommendations of economists, consumer advocates and product quality experts, who all warn that the plans rarely benefit consumers and are nearly always a waste of money.

‘[Extended warranties or purchase protection plans] make no rational sense,’ Harvard economist David Cutler said. ‘The implied probability [of having an issue with the product] has to be substantially greater than the risk that you can’t afford to fix it or replace it. If you’re buying a $400 item, for the overwhelming number of consumers that level of spending is not a risk you need to insure under any circumstances.’”

In short, road hazard warranties are a waste of money. Don’t insure that which you can afford to replace.

Numbers Game and Slim Chances: Like all insurance, tire insurance plans are a numbers game. However, this is a game you have a 98% chance of losing. Insider statistics show that the percentage of claims paid out by providers is as low a 2%.

Curbs: Another interesting note is that a lot of tire damage is caused by curbs. Curb damage is not covered under most road hazard policies. High granite curbs with sharp edges slice through tens of thousands of tires per year.

You Won’t Notice: Many people don’t even notice tire damage. Other than to see if the tires are holding air, who “really” looks at tires? Tires are subject to a whole host of external influences which cause bubbles, slices and gouges.

Despite the potential dangers of damaged tires, the damage very often does not translate into any noticeable drivability issue. The point is that if you don’t notice any tire damage you can’t benefit from the coverage.

Research Shows: Those raving about the benefits of a road hazard policy are the actual folks in the industry who stand to benefit from the sale. They’ll argue that it’s so cheap—only $10 to $20 per tire. Even so, for four tires, that’s $80 based on the “possibility,” the “chance,” of damaging a tire that meets the repair/replacement requirement protocols.

Auto Insurance: If a rim and tire has incurred significant damage, it’s quite likely that other problems have resulted as well. The first is that the vehicle may have been jarred out of alignment. Secondly, hub bearings, front end components: tie rods, spindles, ball joints, and a variety of other components may have sustained damage. In this case, auto insurance, which you are already paying for, will pay for everything—brand new.

Free Road Hazard Warranties: Many tires come with road hazard warranties FREE. In other words, in an effort to secure retailers, many tire distributors provide service centers FREE road hazard insurance. Some shops pass this on to their tire customers, others sell them. Ask if the tire “comes” with a road hazard protection policy. If not, request that one be provided at no additional charge. It’s worth a shot.

Also, some car manufacturers provide road hazard warranties FREE of charge for 12 months or 12,000 miles. If you’re buying a new car or even used, ask that the dealer provide a complimentary road hazard policy (after all the wheeling and dealing is done, of course), and just before you commit.

“What’s the best road hazard policy?” Money in “your” bank account.

Selling your car can be surprisingly tricky, particularly if you want to receive the best possible price. Buyers have a huge choice so it’s vital to make sure that your car stands out from the crowd. Some simple tactics, such as making sure you set a fair price, ensuring that your car looks great and using clever negotiation tactics, can be the difference between making a quick sale or being left with an unwanted car on your hands for months.

Setting the Price

Ensuring that you’ve valued your car correctly is the most important aspect when selling a car. Set too high a price and you could end up with a car stuck on your hands for months, whilst setting too low a price will result in a quick sale but knowing that you could have done better. Parkers.co.uk has an excellent used car guide section, where you can quickly receive a reliable price estimate.

Also, take a look through the local classifieds to get a feel for prices. Take into account the number of miles that you car has traveled and whether any extra features have been installed over the years, such as air conditioning or a stereo system.

Preparing the Car

On average clean and polished cars sell for 10% more than the same cars when they are filthy because buyers like to know that the car they are buying has been cared for. Dealers will also pay more for clean cars because it saves them time and money cleaning the car themselves.

For the outside of the car use a good quality car shampoo before polishing the car to create that ‘new car’ shine. Then power spray the tyres and clean alloy wheels. This clean and shiny car exterior will create an excellent first impression.

Use a vacuum cleaner to remove any dust and dirt from inside the car. Dashboards should be cleaned with a ‘low-gloss’ dashboard cleaner. When cleaning the windows remember to be careful around the heater elements in the rear window. Finally, ensure that the car smells nice. In particular remove any cigarette smell.

Where to Advertise

As a generalization when selling a car there are two options available – sell it yourself or sell direct to a dealer. Selling direct to a dealer is a quick and easy way of getting the car off your hands as you don’t have to advertise, deal with buyers, or take the risk of being unable to sell your car for months, during which time your car continues to devalue. Companies such as webuyanycar.com will provide an instant quote online for the majority of used cars.

The downside with selling to a dealer is that you’re unlikely to receive the best possible price. Advertising and selling the car yourself is more time consuming but can also be more profitable. eBay Motors has become one of the most popular ways of buying and selling a used car, so much so that a car is now sold every 2 minutes through the site. When selling through eBay make sure that you include a lot of information about the car along with a couple of photos.

Negotiating the Price

When potential buyers take a look at your car and decide that they are seriously interested in purchasing it the chances are that they will attempt to negotiate the price. This is to be expected because buyers like to think that they are getting a good deal as well. Therefore have a target price and lowest acceptable price in mind before you enter negotiations. If the two offers are some way apart then a moment of silence is often the best tactic. People find silence uncomfortable and awkward, often resulting in them making a compromise offer half way between the two valuations. It’s at this point that you can propose meeting half way between your offer and the new offer, gaining yourself a better deal.

Completing the Deal

Once a price has been agreed the deal still needs to be completed. Ask the buyer for their ID, address, and landline number because sometimes things go wrong in which case it’s good to have a way to contact them. If paid by cheque only let the buyer drive the car away once it has cleared. Finally, write a receipt stating that you are selling the car, and include the details of the car, yourself and the buyer. Write on the receipt ‘accepted as tested and seen’ to cover yourself against any future claims for damages. Then have the receipt signed by both yourself and the buyer, after which a successful sale will have been achieved.