Hyundai Sonata Review

It’s difficult to imagine, but Hyundai worries that even if it has one of the highest customer faithfullness ratings in the industry, attracting new purchasers into the showroom has been a real challenge. The new Sonata slogan is: “A Hyundai you’ve never seen before” and it is true that the Sonata which was redesigned has more power, more space and better fit and finish than it has ever had previously.

Its Advantages are:

– Acceleration – The possibility to avoid accidents – Comfort and convenience – Gas mileage

There are two acceptable disadvantages:

– Suspension noise – Handling

Reliability and Maintenance

The Sonata is easy to take care of, with very little in the way of programmed maintenance until 100,000 miles is reached, unlike oil changes at regular intervals.

It is backed by one of the longest powertrainn warranties in the automotive industry at 10 years or 100,000 miles.

Performance and Handling

The new Sonata is adequately equipped with a standard 4-cylinder which offers 162HP. The 3.3-liter V6 with 234HP is smooth but responsive and reaches average speed with little effort.

Acceleration is brisk in the four-cylinder and it is surprising in the V6. Hyundai officials say the V6 will turn 0-60 miles per hour times of about 7.5 seconds, with a maximum speed of 130 mph. Shifts are executed easily with the five-speed manual, and the front tires are chirped even more easily. Kicking down for passing with minimal hesitation, the Shiftronic automatic transmission moves between gears smoothly. When the engine bumps up against redline, and it declines to downshift at all, leaving that to the driver’s preferences,in manual mode, the Shiftronic will upshift automatically.

It provides more room and power than previous years. However, there is a least favourite feature, cheap interior look with fewer features, and new external redesign. But let’s see the positive aspects of Hyundai sonata.

Even if the interior seems cheap and bare compared to 2002-2005 models, seats are comfortable and the general aspect is all right for those who prefer simplicity. The on road performance and handling of this car is very good.

The Hyundai Sonata’s new interior marks a major step up the quality ladder. You can notice some rough edges on a few plastic molds and a less-than-lustrous finish on some dash panels. But the overall look is highly competitive with most in the class and better than some.

Three round dials in the hooded instrument cluster communicate the necessities of operational data to the driver, with the largest the speedometer which is positioned inside a polished circle. To its left is the tachometer, and to its right conjoined water temperature and fuel gauges. In the lower dash to the left of the steering column are a bank of five switch plugs, one of them is the dash-light rheostat, and there also can be seen a flip-down storage bin. The ignition key slides into a slot placed properly, in the dash to the right of the steering column instead of on the steering column itself.

Gas powered Scooters are making a comeback as the preferred mode of transportation.

No longer are they just for kids. Gas powered scooters are rapidly taking over as the preferred method of transportation to work and school. They are economical, can maneuver through tight spaces and with a gas scooter, you can take short-cuts that an automobile can not.

Gas powered scooters are also known as mopeds which is a two-wheeled (normally) low powered vehicle. In most states its small size and low power output allow it to escape many of the licensing, insurance, and driver restrictions placed on motorcycles. However, be careful of the true description of moped.

a. A moped is traditionally defined as a motorized 2 wheel vehicle that is part human and part motor driven. A moped has pedals so that it can be propelled by human power. As you can see, gas powered scooters do not fit most states definition of moped.

Don’t fret though, a gas scooter used properly will not get you into any trouble in most places. If used responsibly and traffic laws are obeyed, most law enforcement won’t touch you.

Gas scooters were first introduced in the mid 1950’s. The first design was little more than a bicycle with an engine mounted on it, it was called a cyclemotor. The cylcemotor can still be seen on the road these days in the form of electric bikes.

One reason some people have a gas scooter is to circumvent loosing a driver’s license. Many states don’t require a driver to have an operator’s license if they are over eighteen years of age, sixteen in some states. They also don’t require insurance and registration.

Gas powered scooters have several advantage that should be noted.

a. No parking spots required. Some gas powered scooters can fold down for easy storage right in your office, or you can tie it up at the door with the bicycles right in front of the buildings door or on the sidewalk.

b. A gas powered scooter is faster than the average electric scooter. They can travel at speeds up to thirty-five miles an hour.

c. Gas powered scooters can maneuver rather well – A gas powered scooter is a great way to move through traffic. They dart in and out between cars, especially gridlocked traffic. Imagine sleeping in an extra twenty-thirty minutes. With the time you save avoiding traffic, you can afford to. how smart are you?

d. Gas scooters have very cool body styles; some gas powered scooters look more like miniature motorcycles than scooters.

e. Gas scooters save tons of money – While the cost of gassing up gas powered scooters might seem expensive compared to the low cost of running an electric scooter, the mileage they get quickly makes up for the gallon of gas they require.

f. Maintenance is a breeze– A Gas scooter is easy to maintain. With a basic grasp of tools and a decent book about mechanics most people are able to maintain their gas powered scooters in their own garage.

The best thing about a gas scooter is the freedom to literally go just about anywhere. While you ride your scooter along the trail or the beach, you can go more places than most automobiles. Hop on your new gas scooter and get ready for a new adventure. Take a minute and smell the roses or take in the sights like never before. What more could you ask for?

RC nitro monster trucks may very well be the fastest growing segment in the world of RC vehicles. The reason for the surge in popularity probably stems from the fact that RC nitro monster trucks have steadily improving in performance over the years. In fact, the latest models can actually outperform many RC cars.

RC nitro monster trucks can be bought either ready to run or in a kit that allows you to actually build it yourself. Both types are quality vehicles, built for strength and durability.

In fact, RC nitro monster trucks can handle an amazing amount of hard driving and even though they appear top-heavy and ready to roll over at any moment, the truth is that they rarely do roll over. This is because the wheels of RC nitro monster trucks are designed to provide a low center of gravity.

For many people, the appeal of RC nitro monster trucks is that they mirror the abilities of their real-life counterparts. The enjoyment of watching monster trucks comes from watching them ride roughshod over any kind of surface, including other vehicles. Well, RC nitro monster trucks can be let loose on the kinds of terrain that would leave other RC vehicles spinning their wheels. And, yes, if you ever get the opportunity, you can drive your RC nitro monster trucks right over your friends’ little RC cars.

Although you might think that all RC nitro monster trucks are 4-wheel drive, you’d be mistaken. There are 2-wheel drive RC nitro monster trucks available, and even some that give you the option of switching back and forth. Just as in real life, the 4-wheel drive model allows for driving over areas that are rougher or steeper than the 2-wheel drive model could handle.

So why would anyone want 2-wheel drive RC nitro monster trucks then? Well, while the 4-wheel drive allows for more flexibility in where you can take it, the transmission system is also more sophisticated. Since engine maintenance is routinely required to keep any RC nitro vehicle running in peak condition, expect to spend more time and effort with a 4-wheel drive transmission.

But this drawback shouldn’t be a deciding factor when choosing from among the various models of RC nitro monster trucks. Engine fine-tuning has never been easier for nitro RC vehicles. A bigger concern will probably be price. RC nitro monster trucks may have gotten their name from their appearance, but they could just as easily have earned it from the size of their prices.

Here’s the skinny: don’t expect to purchase one of these babies for less than $300. And, frankly, only expect that price from an older brother looking to sell his RC vehicle so he can raise money to buy a real vehicle. Seriously though, although unexpected bargains have been lucked into on eBay or by someone listing one for sale on a message board, brand new RC nitro monster trucks typically list for well over $400.

They use less fuel. They are much more efficient. They are much less polluting. And what’s more, they require much less maintenance. Yes, hybrids really do score better on all counts when compared to conventional vehicles. In fact not only do they need much less service, they are also made to run better and last longer. So you should take all these factors into consideration when you are making a choice. Let’s take a look at why they don’t need as much maintenance.

Firstly, they have fewer parts than a conventional car and hence, fewer parts to wear out. It’s the way they are built. There’s no regular starter and this technology means that there is one part less that needs to be replaced. No starter also means there is no chance of accidentally grinding the flywheel. The battery and the motor too do not require too much maintenance. The engine lasts longer than a conventional engine and requires as much maintenance perhaps as a conventional one. A hybrid does not need any valve adjustments done and even if there are valves, they do not get worn out because the engine does not run constantly. And the injectors do not need regular cleaning, in fact maybe they never need to be cleaned because there is hardly any deposit on them.

The hybrid car uses electricity to run the air-conditioning system unlike the conventional ones that use a traditional pulley that is driven off a gas motor. So this means there is no air-conditioning belt to wear out. There is also no belt used for the steering because it is not hydraulic but electric. So it has very little kickback even when driving over rough, uneven roads.

The hybrid car’s generator can multi-task. The generator is an important part of the hybrid car and there is a separate gas engine that powers it. A hybrid engine is really very small, maybe 10 to 20 horsepower and it is so designed that it gets maximum efficiency if it runs at one speed. Because the generator does many tasks, there is less wear and tear of the other parts and when braking or coasting, the car can recapture the energy. So there is no wastage of the battery and the battery does not need to be replaced very often. With the generator handling a lot of the braking – in fact 80% – it means that extends the life of the brakes too. There is also less chance of the rotors getting warped. Thanks to less of a heat build up, the life of the brake fluid is extended too and the brake pads last longer.

Hybrid cars also have warranties that are much longer. Most of the Toyota and Honda cars have much longer warranties on their hybrids than on the conventional ones. There’s an 8 year or an 80,000 mile warranty on the Honda Insight while for the Toyota Prius, you’ll get a 100,000 mile warranty or 8 years on the hybrid system and the battery. These longer warranties make the hybrid an attractive buy.

If you are making up your mind between a conventional car and a hybrid one, look at all the long-term advantages. Hybrids are built so they last longer and they don’t need as much looking after as a conventional car. Add to that the fact that they don’t guzzle as much gas and have fewer parts, therefore less maintenance and you’ll see why it makes good sense to decide in favor of the hybrid.

Learning a little more about how to better care for your vehicles is a good idea for any number of reasons. It allows you to know if an unscrupulous mechanic is attempting to gouge you on your repairs – and that will save you money. It can prevent you from making unnecessary repairs – and that will save you money. It can help you locate a problem and fix it early, thus saving more money – sometimes a whole lot of money. It allows you to be more independent in an era where people are entirely too dependent on others to survive.

We need to get started now, so that we have time to cover everything…

First, do a visual check of your vehicle. The following will assist you in where to look, and for what:

•Look at your tires. Do they look low? A tire pressure gauge, available inexpensively at any discount store of auto parts store will help you make sure tire pressure stays dead on. Maintain as necessary. Better tire pressures will make your vehicle safer, and more fuel efficient. There are some very inexpensive air pumps for sale at discount stores – should you really want to stay on top of air pressure in your tires. Motorcyclists and moped riders need to be exceptionally concerned about their tire pressures.

•Look closely at your tires and inspect for severely worn edges, areas missing chunks of rubber, or objects sticking into the tire. Maintain or replace as necessary. If your tires are relatively new, and they seem to be wearing unevenly, take you vehicle into the shop for an alignment, and likely a tire rotation. These two things are frequently lumped together in less costly automotive service “specials.”

•Look under the vehicle for liquids. One drop usually means nothing. Look for consistent drip marks. Remember that during summer months your vehicle’s air conditioning will steadily drip water when in use – no worries. Your coolant system may also spew an occasional bit of water/anti-freeze, and that’s okay too. If you find a stain indicating long-term or consistent leaking, trace the leak to its source: engine oil, transmission fluid, rear end oil, etc. Maintain or repair as necessary. Sometimes, just getting under the vehicle with a pressure hose at the car wash will clean off years of old oil and debris that causes many ‘driveway’ leaks – thus fixing the faux leak.

•Visually check your engine oil. Check it according to the manufacturer’s instructions, and also feel it with your fingers. Engine oil is the life blood of your vehicle’s power plant. Does the oil feel thick, or does it feel watery. Thick is good, watery is bad! Change watery oil (and be sure to use an Engine Sentry when you do change oil and filter). Add the appropriate oil if the level registers low. NEVER overfill your oil!

•Check the coolant level. Be sure to use caution, and follow the manufacturer’s instructions to avoid injury from hot, pressurized liquids. Maintain as necessary. If you haven’t had your coolant/anti-freeze checked lately, it might be advisable. Be sure to never add coolant or anti-freeze that is not recommended by your vehicle’s manufacturer. Some radiators require special products so as not to erode or corrode them.

•Visually check your engine compartment. Tighten caps, firmly tug/test hose connections, look for worn things, things that have blown into the engine compartment, etc. Maintain or repair as necessary. This is also a good time to do light engine cleaning. Nothing too serious, just some rags and some degreaser: ammonia and water make a cheap, great degreaser, but it shouldn’t be used on aluminum – certainly not left on it. A toothbrush is also an excellent tool here – it makes quick work of much engine debris.

•Visually check your automotive battery and connections. Make sure the connections feel tight at the battery. If you have green or white build-up on the battery, mix some baking soda with tepid water (1/4-cup of baking soda to one quart of water) and stir it thoroughly. Now, slowly pour it directly over the affected areas. Don’t worry about all the fizzing and crackling – it’s just cleaning. Make sure you do this where the runoff won’t harm anything. An old toothbrush will make this go faster. When the terminals are clean and dry, apply a thin coating of automotive grease onto each battery terminal, and connection. Automotive grease comes in small, plastic tubs that weigh about a pound each. They’re cheap, so get a good brand name. I use popsicle sticks to spread it with. Grease is good to have around for many automotive fixes and preventive maintenance actions.

Okay, you’ve completed the first steps of becoming a full-fledged automotive diagnostician – or something like that, anyway. You’ve definitely gotten your vehicle in much better condition, and you should have learned a thing or two. Keep an eye out for part II – Hear No Evil, and Part III – Smell No Evil.

Engine Sentry is a registered trademark of Iron Horseman Technologies. Iron Horseman Technologies is the trademark of Iron Horseman Technologies in Tucson, Arizona.

Learning a little more about how to better care for your vehicles is a good idea for any number of reasons. It allows you to know if an unscrupulous mechanic is attempting to gouge you on your repairs – and that will save you money. It can prevent you from making unnecessary repairs – and that will save you money. It can help you locate a problem and fix it early, thus saving more money – sometimes a whole lot of money. It allows you to be more independent in an era where people are entirely too dependent on others to survive.

We need to get started now, so that we have time to cover everything…

Some people are incredibly sensitive to the sounds their vehicles make. This is especially true of motorcyclists, those who refurbish vintage automobiles, and experienced mechanics. It’s a very worthwhile skill to develop. There are mechanics who can listen to a running car engine and tell if the timing is slightly off, or the injectors are not operating properly. While this is a very neat thing to be able to do, you do not have to elevate your listening skills to that lofty place in order to get benefits from listening to your vehicle.

Listen To the Engine (This is best done in relatively quiet surroundings until you get really good at it.) Open up the hood of your vehicle’s engine compartment. If necessary on your model, be sure to use the metal rod to lock the hood in the upright/open position. Now, start your engine. Allow the engine to run for 30-60 seconds before you start listening too hard. Also, there are many moving parts inside of engine compartments, don’t wear loose clothing, and mind all your fingers and hair! Safety first.

A brief word about engine sounds… All engines make sounds. Some sound like jets, and other have constant clicking noises, or humming, or clattering. Which sounds are consistently made, and are okay, are unique to your specific vehicle’s engine. The point being, don’t be alarmed the first time you really take a good listen to your engine. You’ll quickly learn the sounds that are okay, and the ones that are not.

You’re going to listen to your engine from three different positions: 1) Directly in front of the car. 2) On the left (driver’s side) side of the engine compartment. 3) On the right (passenger’s side) side of the engine compartment. I like to start I like to start on the left – right in front of the driver’s door.

Lean over the engine compartment (again – be careful with clothing, hair, and appendages) and listen carefully. Try closing your eyes to heighten your hearing. Listen for things that don’t sound ‘right.’ Such things might include: clattering, metal rubbing metal, clanging, and squeaks. If you hear such a thing, open your eyes and try to focus in on it – moving the position of your head and ears as your track the sound to its source. Repeat this process at all three positions previously described.

This method of checking your engine can reveal loose caps, loose fan belts, loose fans, missing bolts, nuts, and many other things. Correct what you are able to, and have anything else dealt with by a service technician. Don’t put your hands into your engine compartment to tighten something or check something while it is running. If you notice that the stays on the overflow tube are loose and rattling, turn off the engine before tightening.

Driving your car for a short distance over a good road with the radio and air conditioning off and the windows down is a good way to hear some other sounds. Clattering might mean you have a lug nut that came off, and it’s stuck inside the hubcap. A metal-rubbing-metal sound may be a stuck brake.

The last listening project/technique is the best – or at least so people tell me. This one requires a willing and able assistant. The two of you climb into the vehicle together – you drive, the assistant rides shotgun. The assistant will require four things: some WD-40, a notepad, a small can of 3-in-1 oil, and a good rag. Head for a road that isn’t so smooth, and simply drive along. The assistant listens for those irritating squeaks, squeals, and rattles.

The assistant should move around inside the vehicle, focusing on the sounds to locate their sources. One of the two lubricants will fix almost any squeaking – and the rag ensures a nice, tidy application of the chosen lubricant. Some things, such as loose or missing screws or bolts, should be recorded on the notepad for maintenance or repair later, when you get back home to the tools. You won’t believe how quiet your cockpit becomes after you perform this process once or twice.

Okay, you’ve completed another step in becoming a full-fledged automotive diagnostician – or something like that, anyway. You’ve definitely gotten your vehicle in much better condition, and you should have learned a thing or two. Check out Part I – See No Evil, and Part III – Smell No Evil.

Learning a little more about how to better care for your vehicles is a good idea for any number of reasons. It allows you to know if an unscrupulous mechanic is attempting to gouge you on your repairs – and that will save you money. It can prevent you from making unnecessary repairs – and that will save you money. It can help you locate a problem and fix it early, thus saving more money – sometimes a whole lot of money. It allows you to be more independent in an era where people are entirely too dependent on others to survive.

We need to get started now, so that we have time to cover everything…

It may sound strange that smelling your vehicle can be a useful maintenance activity, but believe me it is. And I’m not just talking about needing to buy one of those cute little green trees that permeate every inch of your vehicle’s interior with the smell of pine – or something like that. Actually, you really already do this in at least one instance – the smell of gasoline. And we’ll cover that herein.

Let’s begin with the smell of smoke. If your vehicle is smoking anywhere at any time it’s time to get some service – immediately. It doesn’t matter if you smell the smoke, or see it – you need to deal with the problem ASAP. Smoke coming from anywhere is never ‘okay’ in a vehicle, though you may just have some spilled fluids on a hot engine surface, or some oil that splashed into your wheel assembly. No matter – get it checked and make sure.

The smell of gas is most often associated with a flooded engine: too much gas for the spark to ignite. The gas sits in the engine, and the odor becomes more noticeable for a short time, and then starts to rapidly dissipate. This tends to happen only when you are starting the engine. The smell of gas at any other time, or the constant smell of gas is indicative of another type of problem, and one that is potentially serious, or dangerous: a leak in the fuel system. You should have this checked out by a qualified mechanic as soon as possible.

The smell of rotten eggs, usually associated with sulfur or burning sulfur, is likely a problem with your catalytic converter. Servicing a catalytic converter is highly technical, and will require the attention of a trained technician or mechanic. You should make an appointment for your vehicle as soon as possible. A maladjusted or failing catalytic converter can be costing you precious mileage!

The smell of burning bread, sometimes referred to as ‘burnt toast,’ is most often associated with an electrical short circuit or possibly the burning/melting of the insulation around the affected wires, fuses, or connections. If there are any secondary signs, then you should not run the engine until a qualified technician resolves the issue. Left unchecked, electrical shorts can affect many of the systems in your vehicle.

A sweet odor, especially when mixed with the smell of hot rubber, usually means there’s a coolant leak, or a problem with the cooling system. If you are driving, stop and visually check the engine and the radiator. Driving a vehicle with an overheated engine can do untold damage to all sorts of things, and turn a simple repair with a modest cost into a nightmarish expense that prevents you from using your vehicle for days, or even weeks.

The smell of burning oil is a pungent, acrid stench that can be very slight, or quite pronounced. In either case, you need to check your engine to make sure you don’t have an oil leak, and also to ensured that you have the recommended amount of oil in your engine. Usually, the smell of burning oil is something minor, such as a small spill on the engine, a slight overflow that got blown onto a hot engine part, or low engine oil. Be sure that when you change your engine oil you insist on an Engine Sentry®.

Okay, you’ve completed the final step in becoming a full-fledged automotive diagnostician – or something like that, anyway. You’ve definitely gotten your vehicle in much better condition, and you should have learned a thing or two to keep it running great for a long time to come. If you haven’t already, check out Part I – See No Evil, and Part II – Hear No Evil.

Keeping a good care of your jet ski motor will take it to its peak performance. In fact, if you keep it in good condition, you really would not have to bother about rigid maintenance after.

But there are natural circumstances that we cannot discard. All jet skis depreciate and suffer from natural death. But that of course would take ages before happening.

Well, before your jet ski gets old and die because of an impaired motor, it would be good to note that there are shops that offer services regarding motors, spare parts and accessories.

Too many jet ski owners believe that what they need is a new jet ski motor when all the while, they only have to revamp their old ones. However, it can also be remanufactured and perform in the level of new ones. To help the motor regain its usual performance, the owner must be able to seek a top-caliber repair shop that exceeds one’s expectations.

Here are some tips that will help you discover the best people to do the work for you:

Complete service If you can’t find this service then rest assured that such is the normal case. Most motor shops these days specialize in specific parts. However, there will always be some self-respecting motor shops that can provide you with all the stuffs you need.

Various local jet ski motor shops offer engine parts such as piston kits, crankshaft parts, cylinder heads, rebuild kits, and a number of others. Many of these shops also have their online services that further improve their outreach.

Aside from providing new, revamped or remanufactured jet ski motors, most shops both online and offline offer repairing services in case you lack the knowledge of fixing the motor yourself. Between their large selections of parts and equipments, you can also be assured of in-house services that will deliver your jet ski motors in their prime condition.

There are other packages that may be had from jet ski motor shops. Among these are the performance packages that will recreate your personal watercraft vehicle into a speed maniac that is ideal for racing and personal enjoyment.

Additionally, such shops may also provide wide array of parts selections used for other watercraft systems such as the pump, electrical connections and exhaust.

Well, jet ski stuffs never cease to increase in volume and kinds so it would be good to add that many shops can also provide jet ski gears and accessories. These include huge selections of eyewear and wetsuits, which make the sports an infinite source of enjoyment for water sport lovers.

Don’t be a prisoner in your own home. If you or a household member happens to be mobility impaired, don’t allow this to stop one from continuing to enjoy a mobile quality of life.

There are a lot of helpful mobility aids available in the market such as power scooters and wheelchairs to aid mobility but this is not enough. To be able to empower the mobility impaired to maintain a certain independence in terms of mobility, it is important to consider adding a residential wheelchair lift.

With a residential wheelchair lift, one can get around the house much easier and faster without having to be overly dependent on other individuals for aid. Installing a residential wheelchair lift will also solve the problem of deciding whether to move homes or not.

If you or someone in your family has recently been impaired in terms of mobility, you may have been thinking of looking for home that is friendlier to mobility aids like power scooters and wheelchairs. Perhaps you are thinking of getting a flat or a one-story place for easy navigation indoors.

Save yourself the hassle of trying to find a new home and having to go through the extremely tedious and taxing effort of moving homes. Just fit your existing home with a safe, secure and dependable residential wheelchair lift.

Handy Ramp

What’s better than having a Handiramp at home? Nothing comes close to ease and convenience of having Handiramp installed in your home. This patent product was specifically designed and engineered as a wheelchair lift for use inside the home. It is extremely easy to install and use and remains virtually maintenance free.

More than all that, Handiramp is flexible and can be modified according to your individual needs and circumstances. Check Handiramp out at http://www.handiramp.com and talk to them about your specific needs.

Auto Mobility, Inc

Check out Auto Mobility Inc at http://www.automobilityinc.com and learn for yourself how this company is dedicated to helping and servicing mobility impaired individuals and families with a mobility impaired member. They provide sales, service and installation of mobility aids with a personal touch.

Check them out and allow them to tell you about how they can help you with making necessary revisions to your present home to make it friendly and easy to use by members of the household who may be mobility impaired. They do several home access needs and services and will be able to help you with your need for a residential wheelchair lift.

Today’s vehicles are equipped with an array of warning lights. Of course we’re all familiar will the seat belt warning and the door ajar indicator; however, with the automotive industry’s technological advancements there are a number of warning lights that can be quite alarming.

Following is a Question and Answer Guide on some of the more common Warning Light concerns. Note: due to the frequency of the Check Engine Warning Light, it has a section all its own. Visit www.repairtrust.com/check.html.

1) SRS Light (Supplemental Restraint System): the supplemental restraint system is your Airbag System. It may incorporate a variety of active, passive, and even pre-safe technology depending on the vehicle. Given that the SRS System is a safety system, it is well monitored with numerous sensors and automatic self-tests. The slightest malfunction in this system illuminates the SRS light.

“Can the vehicle be driven with an SRS Light on?” Yes, at the owner’s risk. There are thousands of vehicles on the road without SRS technology.

“Is the airbag going to blow up?” It’s unlikely. When the SRS Light is on the system is inoperative.

2) ABS Lights: The Anti-Lock Brake System Warning Light is another common occurrence in today’s vehicles. The ABS system helps to keep you from skidding out of control during braking by limiting your wheels from locking up/skidding.

The ABS system is often integrated with traction control and stability systems, all of which are designed to keep you safe during panic stops, wheel slippage, and handling.

“Do I need brakes?” You might, but that’s not why the ABS Light is on. The ABS Warning System does not monitor disc brake pad or disc brake rotor wear (see the Padlight Warning section below)

“Can the vehicle be driven?” Like the SRS system, the vehicle can be driven at the owner’s risk as there are many vehicles still on the market without the enhanced safety features of ABS.

“Why is my ABS light on? How do I reset the ABS Light?” These are simple questions with a multitude of answers depending on the vehicle in question. For a QUICK and FREE solution, follow the information and guidelines for Resetting Check Engine Light, and apply them to your ABS light.

3) Low Coolant Light: The Low Coolant Light will come on when the coolant drops below the coolant level sensor—generally one to two quarts. If this light is on, there are two primary possibilities. The most common is a coolant leak. The other is an electrical fault in the warning lamp circuit. Have them checked out.

“Can it be driven?” If there are no major leaks, the vehicle is not overheating (and does not start to overheat), and there is still some evidence of coolant in the overflow bottle, it can be driven. If you can see coolant leaking on the ground—tow it. When in doubt, always tow it!

4) Red Oil Light On: Stop driving immediately and shut the engine off! If a Red Oil Warning Light comes on PAY ATTENTION.

The best case scenario is that your engine oil is a little low. The second best case scenario is that there is an electrical issue with the Oil Level Warning System circuit.

First, follow your owners’ manual’s instructions to check your oil. If low, add as recommended—make sure you don’t see it dripping or pouring out on the ground, which would indicate a “major” engine leak.

If the oil is not low and your engine is making ticking, knocking, or unusual noises, Tow it!

If everything appears ok, and you’re a bit of a gambler, it may just be an issue with the warning lamp circuit. In this case, get your vehicle checked out at your earliest convenience.

The worst case scenario is internal engine damage.

Note: many of today’s vehicles have very sensitive and sophisticated Oil Level Warning Systems. You may be alerted of oil level too high, or oil level too low. Again, refer to your owners’ manual’s instructions.

So whether it’s a 1993 Ford Aerostar Check Oil Light, or a question of “Why does oil light flash in Saab automobile,” PAY ATTENTION!

5) Red Brake Warning Lights: Generally, Red Warning Lights mean DANGER. In the case of a Red Brake Warning Light, there may be a hydraulic brake fluid leak. If the brake pedal feels abnormal or spongy—don’t drive—Tow It!

“Can I drive it?” If the car is stopping ok, and you’re a gambler, go ahead. If the brake pedal feels different than usual, or if the vehicle is not stopping properly, don’t drive it!

Note: make sure that your emergency brake is not on or partially engaged, as this will illuminate a Red Brake Warning Light.

6) Yellow Brake Warning Light (Padlight): This is an early warning system for brake pad wear. Essentially, as your disc brake pads wear down, at a certain point a sensor is tripped to alert you that you will need brakes soon.

“Can I drive the vehicle, and for how long?” Yes, you can continue to drive. How long depends on your driving style. City drivers (city driving is generally harder on brakes due to the constant stop and go) will likely need their brakes addressed before someone who does primarily highway driving.

“Will I do more damage to the brakes?” Depending on how long you continue to drive you could conceivably wear your disc brake pads down to the metal backing plate, which could then damage your disc brake rotors and, in rare cases, the disc brake calipers. However, with many of today’s brake systems, the replacement of the disc brake rotors along with the disc brake pads is required or strongly recommended.

Important: It is better to have your brakes checked early to increase the possibility of saving money by not having to replace the rotors. However, many of today’s brake disc pads and rotors require replacement not due to wear, but due to rust and corrosion; thus rotor replacement is often necessary anyway. Brake calipers rarely need replacing during regular brake work.

7) Air Suspension Lights (Airmatic, Air Ride, Hydraulic Suspensions): Suspension Warning Lights illuminate when the suspension’s monitoring system has detected a fault. Often there is a leak—either air or hydraulic fluid.

“Can I drive it?” Sometimes. But if the suspension is lower than usual, and/or the vehicle just doesn’t feel right—Tow It! Extensive damage could result if the suspension drops too low while driving.

Note: air suspension system repairs are best left to the best, state-of-the-art service center you can find, preferably a dealership.

Tire Pressure Warning Light: This recent technological development causes quite a bit of confusion. Put simply, if your tire is getting low on air, your car lets you know via sensors mounted in various places depending on the model.

“What is the low tire pressure warning light reset procedure?” Sometimes the reset procedure is as simple as pressing a button. Other times one has to set the tire pressures, recalibrate the on-board computer, genuflect and cross two fingers. Check your owners’ manual or call a specialist or dealer.

Note: Local shops and franchises (for the most part) lack familiarity with Tire Pressure Monitoring Systems given that this is a fairly recent technological development. You can refer to How to Reset Check Engine Light, and follow the tips, and suggestions for getting it reset.

9) Emission Warning Light: This light is similar to the Check Engine Light. Many European models such as Volvos have this type of Warning System. It’s essentially letting you know that an emissions component has failed or detected a fault. Follow the Check Engine Light information and tips to address this particular warning light.

Note: make sure you take it to a shop equipped to handle emissions work.

10) Resetting Oil Lights (Oil Change Warning Lamps): Whether it’s a Toyota Oil Light Procedure, an Oil Change Warning Light Reset 2005 GMC Envoy, or the process to Reset 1999 M3 Oil Service Light, all require a specific course of action.

Most owners’ manuals have this information. You should find it under maintenance or oil service. You can also call your local mechanic, who resets oil service lights everyday on a variety of models. A dealership will certainly have the information; however, finding someone in a dealership who can translate it effectively may be difficult.

If the above fails, see the process for Resetting Check Engine Light.

Note: several European models require special tools to reset the oil service light, thus it’s best to call or visit a specialist or dealer.

Note: This information is not a substitute for your vehicle’s owners’ manual. It is meant to be a general guide. Always refer to manufacturer vehicle-specific guidelines.

Note: PAY ATTENTION to how you are billed for any of the above warning concerns. Because of their technical nature they can get “unnecessarily” very pricy, quickly.

How much insurance does one need? You have the big four: home, health, life, and car insurance. Then there’s a second category, which starts getting a little hazy with credit card insurance, purchase protection plans, fraud insurance and more. Extended warranties, also called extended service contracts, or extended service policies fall into the mist of this second category.

Extended warranties are supposed to pay (in full or in part) for specified repairs for a specific period of time after the expiration of the factory warranty. They can be a great value. They can also be a significant waste of money. It gets quite foggy in the details. What exactly is covered? How long? How much? Are there hidden charges?

There are numerous extended warranty companies and an even wider variety of warranty packages available: silver, gold, platinum, platinum-plus, and a host of other confidence-building words. What’s the best plan, and are extended service contracts worth the money? Extended warranties, like life insurance policies, are a numbers game. They’re a gamble. You pay $2500-$4500 for a 2 year, 100,000-mile protection plan and hope that you get at least that back in warranty repairs. The provider on the other hand, hopes to pay out less than it insured.

There are three major types of plan providers: The manufacturer, the dealership/third party, and third party providers. Each one has its assets and liabilities (discussed ahead).

What exactly is covered in an extended service plan? As mentioned above, what’s covered depends on the package purchased. Some plans only cover the power train: the mechanical components of the engine, transmission, and rear-end. Others cover the power train plus some electrical components. Still others cover electrical, advanced electrical, and computer components. Some only cover what’s listed in the contract. This is called a “Stated” or “Named” contract. This means that if it’s not stated, it’s not covered. Some cover bumper-to-bumper, similar to a manufacturer warranty, except trim pieces, upholstery, exterior components, cosmetic items, and a number of other exclusions.

Never before has the adage, “The devil’s in the details,” been so applicable.

Manufacturer Extended Plans: Extended service plans from the manufacturer are the best in terms of coverage, convenience, and quality. Coverage is similar to the warranty while the vehicle was under its original factory warranty—with similar exclusions stated above. The billing is direct, meaning you don’t have to pay out-of-pocket, except for a deductible, if applicable. Quality is great too, as an extended warranty from the manufacturer will only use factory parts. They also have money, so there’s less risk of bankruptcy.

The down side of manufacturer extended service plans is that they are not cheap. These plans are generally the most expensive, require low mileage standards, and necessitate servicing your vehicle at a dealer for coverage.

Dealership/Third Party Plans: Extended warranties from a dealership are actually from a third party insurer. These providers are “generally” reputable, but not always. However, if there is an issue (such as the warranty provider filing chapter 11, which is quite frequent in the extended service contract business), the dealer “may” step in to cover any repairs that would have been covered under the defunct plan. Also, claims are easier: billing is direct because the dealership has a working relationship with the provider, and there is usually agreement on price.

Some dealers set up their own “internal extended warranty,” which is honored by the selling dealer. This is rare, and should not be confused with a manufacturer warranty. Important: extended warranties are often passed off as “manufacturer” warranties. They’re not. This is a sales trick. Also be aware that there is a significant mark up, as the dealership is merely acting as the middle man. Lastly, extended warranty companies often go bankrupt without warning.

Third Party Plans: These plans are called third party plans because they are outside the responsibility of the manufacturer and the service center performing the repairs (unless there’s a working relationship with a repair shop as stated above).

There are hundreds of extended service contract companies. Some have good reputations, some don’t. Third party plans are frequently sold by used car dealers. You may also receive an official looking notification in the mail stating that your warranty is expiring, and directing you to call an 800 number ASAP. This is a marketing tactic by an independent warranty provider. Despite the “official” appearance of the postcard or envelope, it’s not from the manufacturer. Manufacturers do not send out reminders about warranty expirations.

Given the wide-variety of third party plans there are numerous red flags.

1) Claims: Extended warranty companies will be quick to tell you that filing claims is easy, and that the service center gets paid immediately via a credit card. Thus, there’s no out-of-pocket expense for you. However, the warranty company can’t dictate a service center’s policies. Some service centers will only accept payment from the repair customer. Thus the burden is on the repair customer to fill out the forms, contact their warranty company, and await reimbursement via check, which can take 2-8 weeks.

It is the service center’s responsibility to contact the extended warranty company to let them know what’s wrong with the vehicle and to check coverage. This process can take anywhere from 20 minutes to 20 days, sometimes more, depending on the degree of repairs and especially the amount. (See $1000 and Adjusters ahead)

Service centers and extended warranty companies frequently battle over the “fair” price of repairs. Many repair shops no longer negotiate, and just state the price, leaving the contract holder (i.e., the service customer) responsible for the difference.

2) Rentals: Rental coverage is a great benefit. However, there are fixed rates and time limits. In other words, the warranty company is not going to pay to have you drive a Mercedes-Benz, even if you drive a Benz. Rental allowances range from $25 to $35 per day. Also, rental coverage is based on the number of hours it takes to repair the vehicle, NOT how long your car has been at the shop.

3) $1000 and Adjusters: Repairs that approach $1000, or that require a significant amount of work, will be cause for the warranty company to call in an adjuster to confirm the diagnosis. This will delay the repairs by a minimum of 24-48 hours. It may cost you additional money when an adjuster is involved. You may be charged to have your vehicle pulled back into the shop for inspection, as well as for the time spent with the adjuster.

4) Tear-down Charges: In many cases, an extended warranty company will require that a particular component be taken apart for inspection to determine if the repair is indeed needed and covered. This puts the service customer in a very awkward position. The customer will have to authorize potentially hundreds of dollars of tear-down expense in the hopes that the repair is covered. If it’s not, the customer is out the hundreds in tear-down PLUS the actual repair. This does happen!

Common Myths:

1) “Extended warranties cover maintenance services and brake work.”

No. Extended warranty plans do not cover maintenance or wearable items. Brake pads and rotors are wearable parts. Maintenance such as coolant, brake and transmission flushes, tune-ups, services, oil changes, bulbs, wipers, and more are not covered.

2) “They told me it’s bumper-to-bumper, so it covers everything right?”

Wrong. Not even a factory warranty covers everything. When pitching the sale for the extended warranty, one is very often lead to believe that he or she will have nothing to worry about. This is just not true on so many levels. For example, if your bumper falls off it’s not covered.

3) “I don’t have to pay anything, right?”

Wrong. Despite the claims of 100% coverage, there are many factors involved. The labor rates, labor hours, diagnostic times, parts prices, and machine work are just a few items that often conflict with a service center’s policies. Some extended contracts only pay a maximum of $55 per hour, and only allow one half hour for diagnostic time. This is generally unacceptable to the service center, as labor rates have skyrocketed to over $100 per hour at many dealerships, and average $75 at local shops. Moreover, with the complexity of today’s vehicles, diagnostic time is at a premium. The customer pays the difference.

4) “If I have an expensive problem, I can just purchase an extended service contract.”

It’s unethical, but it’s an option many attempt. However, most service contracts have a minimum time requirement before the first claim can be filed: usually three months. Also, many contracts require that your vehicle be inspected by a service center to check for pre-existing conditions—just like life insurance.

5) “My contract lasts up to 100,000 miles.”

Only if the time limit doesn’t run out first. All extended warranty plans have a time limit. For example, a typical contract will state that the vehicle is covered for two years or 100,000 miles, which ever comes first. During the sales pitch, however, the emphasis will be on the 100,000 miles, not the time.

6) “If my car breaks, it gets fixed like new.” Actually, depending on the contract, an extended warranty company can insist on installing remanufactured or even used parts.

Items commonly not covered by extended warranties: • Any component with a pre-existing condition • Any component related to a Technical Service Bulletin (TSB) • Many components that has been updated by the manufacturer • Extra components necessary “due to manufacturer updates” to complete the repair • Trim pieces: molding, cup holders, dashboard, console, body parts, glass • Many accessories: radios, DVD players, TVs • Many expensive electronics: climate control units, navigation assemblies

Service contract positives: Some service contracts are transferable, and may thus increase the resale value of a vehicle. Many come with trip interruption reimbursement, towing and 24-hour road side. Some plans can also be financed, or have E-Z Pay Plans. Others offer a money-back guarantee.

What should you do? You’ll get lots of advice about doing the research, comparing plans, and reading the fine print. This is all sound advice. But what about doing the math?

Let’s say a plan costs $2500 for 2 years or 100,000 miles, whichever comes first. To break even you’ll need a minimum of $1250 per year in covered repairs, excluding regular maintenance. Remember covered is the vital word here.

Another way to break it down is to anticipate having to pay $104.17 per month over the next two years in “covered” repairs. Do you want to take that bet?

What could happen? You could double your money or more in repair work. You could conceivably get a new engine and transmission (or used ones anyway). You could also easily spend $2500 for a service contract, and still have to pay another $2500 for repairs, which for a variety of reasons, were not covered under your plan. Now you’re out $5000.

Alternatively, you could keep the initial $2500. In many ways all an extended warranty does is prepay for repairs. You could stick the money in the bank and collect interest. Then you could withdraw the money for repairs as needed.

Another consideration that’s rarely discussed is the cause of the problems. Many car repairs problems are the result of wear and tear, neglected maintenance, physical damage, or acts of God—such as flood damage. None of this is covered. The gamble only covers failed components.

If the vehicle you’re driving does cost $2500 to $4500 in repairs due to outright failed components, is it a vehicle you even want to consider keeping? A vehicle that needs this kind of repair work due to mechanical, electrical, or computer failures may not be worth it. The $2500-$4500 would be better spent on an upgrade to a quality vehicle rather than insuring a lemon.

There’s no question that auto repair is expensive, and even quality cars break from time to time. But do they breakdown to the tune of $2500-$4500? That’s a hefty bet on a “possibility.”

Terence O’Hara from the Washington Post makes an excellent assessment about extended warranties in general. He writes:

…extended warranties play upon a basic human trait to avoid loss, even if it means sacrificing a possible future gain…the gain is all the other things of value that a consumer could buy with the money that was spent on a warranty

What’s the best plan? Money in your bank account!