Since ultimate comfort while riding is one of the main aims of motorcycle buyers, many Harley Davidson riders are more concerned with the height of the seat. This would give them a relaxed, more convenient cruise with the confidence that they can lay their feet flat on the ground whenever needed. Yes, we can say that bikes can be ridden even without having the foot flat on the ground, but to keep the rider in control while maintaining full balance when at full stop, the height of the Harley-Davidson seat is very important.

The seat’s main purpose of course is to keep the rider in a comfortable position while traveling. A Harley-Davidson seat is very effective in this. However, you might not be aware that each seat is different from each other.

Having said that, it must be noted that each Harley-Davidson model has different seat height.

The list below contains the seat height of the 2006 Harley-Davidson models. The figure on the left is in inches. The right column is the list of 2006 Harley-Davidson models.

If you are trying to figure out which one will you buy, this list will be a great help.

Motorcycle Seat Height Motorcycle Model in Inches

302006 Harley-Davidson VRSCR Street Rod 28.12006 Harley-Davidson Sportster XL883R 28.12006 Harley-Davidson Sportster XL1200R 27.52006 Harley-Davidson Dyna Wide Glide FXDWGI 27.32006 Harley-Davidson Electra Glide Classic FLHTC/I 27.32006 Harley-Davidson Electra Glide Standard FLHT/I 27.32006 Harley-Davidson Road King FLHR/I 27.32006 Harley-Davidson Sportster XL883 27.32006 Harley-Davidson Ultra Classic Electra Glide FLHTCUI 26.92006 Harley-Davidson Road Glide FLTRI 26.92006 Harley-Davidson Road King Classic FLHRCI 26.82006 Harley-Davidson Dyna 35th Anniversary Super Glide FXDI35 26.82006 Harley-Davidson Dyna Super Glide Custom FXDCI 26.62006 Harley-Davidson Dyna Super Glide FXDI 26.52006 Harley-Davidson Sportster XL883C 26.52006 Harley-Davidson Sportster XL1200C 26.32006 Harley-Davidson Street Glide FLHX/I 26.12006 Harley-Davidson Road King Custom FLHRS/I 262006 Harley-Davidson Night Train FXSTB/I 262006 Harley-Davidson Softail Deuce FXSTD/I 262006 Harley-Davidson Sportster XL883L 262006 Harley-Davidson V-Rod VRSCA 262006 Harley-Davidson VRSCD Night Rod 25.92006 Harley-Davidson Softail Springer Classic FLSTSC/I 25.82006 Harley-Davidson Dyna Street Bob FXDBI 25.52006 Harley-Davidson Heritage Softail Classic FLSTC/I 25.52006 Harley-Davidson Heritage Softail FLST/I 25.42006 Harley-Davidson Fat Boy FLSTF/I 25.22006 Harley-Davidson Dyna Low Rider FXDLI 25.22006 Harley-Davidson Softail Standard FXST/I 24.92006 Harley-Davidson Springer Softail FXSTS/I 24.52006 Harley-Davidson Softail Deluxe FLSTN/I

For the private owner to market a car for sale while avoiding the risks associated with selling it privately is no small undertaking. The following points should be considered:

Secret #1: Evaluating Personal Circumstances

The kind of person you are and the circumstances you’re in play a key role in the decision to sell your own car. Before setting out to sell your car yourself, make sure that you have confidence in negotiating with prospective buyers. Test-drives and phone calls are part of the process, so it’s vital to be prepared to handle these as well. Simply knowing yourself and what you’re going to face is absolutely critical.

Secret #2: Being Armed With Knowledge of the Market

The best way to begin when first planning to sell a car privately is to know the market–to be armed with enough information. This ca be done by simply determining how much the old car is worth. Try to determine the answers to these important questions: Is the car going to be easy to sell? Is it a popular commodity? Is it likely to receive multiple offers? What kind of buyer is most likely to be interested in this kind of car? In order to answer these problems with accurate results, the first step should be to check some car ads online.

Several online used car guides are now available on the Internet. By knowing a car’s make, model, mileage, and general condition these Web sites will doubtless prove to be a good place to begin determining the value of the vehicle. Based on those basic details it is quick and easy to secure accurate estimates for things such as how much a local dealer is likely to offer for it as a trade in. It is also helpful for determining how much to expect to make by selling your car privately by visiting and examining the used car guides on the Web.

The used car price guides that are now commonly available at libraries or bookstores are useful in addition to checking the online used car guides. The local newspaper’s automotive advertising section can also be checked for similar vehicles. By combining information from all of these sources it will become easy to gain the knowledge needed to be fully prepared for private automobile sales.

O.K. you’re patting yourself on the back for all of the homework you’ve done on your perspective car that you are going to buy… so you’re fired up and ready to go… right?

It’s great that you’ve done much homework on the car that you’ve got your eye on… good job. But, consider this – have you given any thought at all as to what your negotiating game plan is going to be? If you really want to maximize your car deal, it only makes sense to give this area some additional consideration.

Negotiating is skill that can be learned and gets better with practice. Throughout everyone’s life – first as children then as parents – negotiation occurs rather regularly. Now that you’re looking at stepping onto a car dealership, you shouldn’t suddenly feel as though you’ve never been involved in negotiations… I’ll bet that you have.

First and foremost, plan to succeed. Simple thought I know, but it is part of the preparation. If you go into the process thinking that you would really like to get the selling price down to a certain figure, but at the same time you’re telling yourself that this probably won’t happen… then guess what… it won’t. You won’t have the confidence, and the sales person or sales manager will get work on your shaky expectations and get you off your target price.

Be mindful of the other hand though. If you go into the car selling price negotiating process like the proverbial ‘bull in a china shop’ you’ll probably trip the sales person’s and the sales manager’s hot button and they will push back just as vigorously creating a negotiating chasm.

The key as a polished negotiator is to stay calm and pleasant and present win-win scenarios.

Secondly – Be prepared. Don’t go into any type of transaction such as buying a car unprepared. Don’t just know about the car and what you want your car to come with – know what each of these options cost… don’t guess or assume… There is profit to be negotiated upon across the board at any given dealership. Knowledge is confidence, and sales people will pick up on the fact that you know of which you talk and this will significantly cut down on the sales b.s.

Next – Leave yourself wiggle room inside your cocoon of happiness target. In other words never start with the price you want to pay. Remember, by definition here we are negotiating with another person… if you start with the price you want to pay; you’ll have no choice but to negotiate your way up and out of it. So, if you’re will to spend say $15,000 then start at $14,000 and work to create a win-win somewhere in between. And, oh by the way… no one in the dealership other than you has or will have NO IDEA of what you’re willing to pay.

Here’s a bonus tip – if the sales person kicks off the negotiations with the first offer, don’t counter with a number… that’s right no counter number… instead counter back with a pleasant … “I’m afraid that’s somewhat beyond my budget” … make them come back with another offer to get you in the game. Now you just gotten a newer offer and you haven’t even jumped in yet. The first offer from the dealer is usually their ‘home run’ swing… they don’t really expect you to serve yourself up at this point (although some do… and hence the home run in profit).

Keep in that this is not a one way street. You’ll have to participate and make some concessions in order for your deal to be a winner. For instance, if you can’t get to the selling price you want then get more for your trade, get an extended warranty at dealer cost, get some no cost service or oil changes, floor mats, … anything that keeps the deal moving forward and the negotiations open… don’t get hung up on ‘beating you opponent’ over just one aspect of the deal.

This is where many people get frustrated and either walk away after getting so close or just give in as a result of the frustration. Negotiating a car deal is a package not just a selling price. Sure the selling price is the focal point, but you have to give the appearance that you are offering some concession as well. In fact, as your target price get within range, don’t just agree on the price and then begin the delivery process. If you do… you will be in a much weaker position to negotiate any extras you may want such as that extended warranty… you see… make sure all potential aspects of the deal are in place before you shake hands on the price.

Listing a car on motors” rel=”tag”>eBay Motors has become one of the most popular ways of selling a car. With over 3 million unique visitors to eBay Motors UK each month, a car is sold every two minutes. eBay Motors has a number of distinct advantages over straightforward classified ads, not least the space to fully describe the car, add multiple photos, and the reduced hassle of only having to deal with one buyer, the buyer that wins the auction. Clare Gilmartin, the head of eBay Motors UK, reaffirmed this by saying, “The beauty of eBay Motors is that there’s no need for negotiation and you see the buyers bidding up the price, with sellers often getting more than they expected.” In actual fact, many buyers go on eBay in search for a bargain. Therefore the following guide has been put together to ensure that your car doesn’t become one of those bargains.

The first step is to do your homework. Find out the trade-in value of the car through getting an instant valuation from a website such as wewillbuyyourcar.com. Then use the excellent used car valuation tool on parkers.co.uk. Use these two valuations to identify a fair price for your car. Be sure not to set the reserve price to high, as this will scare off many potential buyers. Often products and cars with lower reserve prices will end up receiving higher bids and a higher final sales price.

Perhaps the most important aspect of selling your car on eBay Motors is the description of the car. There’s a wide choice of cars for sale on eBay so a poor description or missing details will result in people bidding for other cars. Firstly, a picture says a thousand words. Several pictures say even more so be sure to include photos of the tyres and the inside of the car as well. Mention that you have all the relevant documents – the V5 Registration Document, MOT Certificate, and Service History. Also explain your payment terms and whether you offer delivery or collection only.

Aside from the eBay description there are other steps that can be taken to help buyers feel more confident. Consider purchasing an AA Car Data Check. This will provide details of whether the car has been written off, if it has a finance agreement against it, along with a full description of the car, including details such as engine size, fuel type and date of first registration. Mentioning that the AA Car Data Check can be viewed will really help to instill confidence into potential buyers.

Once the auction has begun stay involved in the process of selling your vehicle. Assuming that you’ve accurately described the car and added various photos, only serious buyers will get in contact. Respond to any questions quickly and accurately. Finally, once the auction has been finalised payment must be made. Many people choose to use Escrow.com, eBay Motor’s finance partner, which acts as a secure third party to protect both the buyer and the seller. The buyer pays escrow.com, the car is then collected or delivered, the buyer then checks over the car, after which point Escrow pays the seller.

Generally, making a successful and satisfactory sale on eBay Motors is all about establishing credibility. The feedback score helps but a detailed description, multiple photos, an AA Car Data Check and the use of escrow.com all help greatly to make buyers feel more secure, ultimately encouraging them to bid higher.

Why fear the driving instructor when all he/she wants to do is help build up your confidence and teach you to drive. They are not ogres - they are human beings just like you and me - only with more knowledge on how to control and drive a vehicle of which they will be sharing with you - once you have booked your first driving lesson.

In a way it should be the roads you fear more so than that of your driving instructor. Not knowing what another driver is going to do has to be the scary part of learning to drive, however in saying that, if you stick to the Highway Code and the other driver also -then there should be no problems

A driving instructor’s work is cut out for him/her and also the learner, there job entails teaching people to drive safely on the roads and to prepare them for their driving test. Your instructor will throughout your lessons become your close companion/friend giving you sound advice as time progresses. They will help you relax while at the same time building up your confidence along the way before any introduction of the controls take place. The basis of driving will follow this.

Once the initial start up process has begun and you are now comfortable with the basics - then the lessons following this will take place on the public roads. At this stage, you will be sat behind the driver’s wheel and will carry out any manoeuvres suggested by the driving instructor. Normally most learners starting out will have a designated route to follow in advance. You will be monitored at all times by your driving instructor during your lessons. The instructor will be looking to see how you handle the vehicle and if you are following the rules accordingly etc.

Learners and their car they learn to drive in will have dual controls; this is a safety precaution for both you the instructor and other motorists on the road. Dual controls will be used in a case of emergency - where the vehicle you are in will need to be halted. If a friend or member of your family has kindly offered their services i.e. teaching you to drive then make sure they have all the legal requirements to do so - they must have held a valid full driving licence for three years. L plates will need to be displayed.

Do not attempt to drive a vehicle that is not roadworthy - you don’t want to lose that licence - before it’s issued.

Number One: Not confirming the concern. Confirming a repair concern is a basic diagnostic principle frequently overlooked. To fix a problem, the first thing one must do is recognize it.

Number Two: Insufficient Road Testing. The importance of a thorough road test (even for an oil change) is well documented in automotive training manuals. Yet, many technicians consider driving the vehicle into the shop good enough.

Number Three: Misdiagnosing. For the above reasons and a multitude of others, your vehicle is misdiagnosed more often than not. Mechanics will spend hours chasing the wrong problem, wasting your time and money.

Number Four: Throwing parts at a problem. To compensate for lack of skills, mechanics often just throw parts at the problem in the hope of getting lucky. It’s common to hear mechanics say I replaced this, this, this, and that, and the problem’s still not fixed. This goes right back to mistake number one: confirm the problem with diagnostics, then proceed.

Number Five: Not addressing primary concerns first. Technicians often spend an inordinate amount of time looking for easy sells that will fatten their paychecks. There’s nothing wrong with this provided there’s no charge for the inspection, it doesn’t conflict with your time, and the upsell suggestions are valid (they’re frequently not). However, this type of free inspection and the subsequent upselling too often overshadows the primary concern. So…what’s wrong with my car?

Number Six: Overconfidence. Too often unqualified technicians get in over their heads. Rather than defer to a more experienced technician or facility, they often keep going and do more harm. How’s it go…The road to hell is paved with good intentions?

Number Seven: Taking shortcuts. In the ongoing effort to beat the clock, technicians will create a host of problems: breaking parts, snapping bolts, short circuiting sensitive electronics. Refer to Auto Repair: How Can They Screw Up an Oil Change for a great discussion.

Number Eight: Poor Repairs. Whether through incompetence or laziness, mechanics frequently don’t do repairs correctly. It’s often sloppy work. Forgotten bolts, parts not lined up correctly, or components not re-installed properly are common. It gets worse with computer repairs: incorrect software programming, coding, and resynchronization protocols are just a few.

Number Nine: Not confirming repairs. After a repair is complete, it’s important to re-check to ensure that the problem is indeed fixed. Too often parts are thrown in and the car is pulled out only to pull in another victim.

Number Ten: Making a mess. If the above nine mistakes weren’t bad enough, there are now greasy fingerprints on the hood and steering wheel, and two big greasy boot marks on the carpet.

How much insurance does one need? You have the big four: home, health, life, and car insurance. Then there’s a second category, which starts getting a little hazy with credit card insurance, purchase protection plans, fraud insurance and more. Extended warranties, also called extended service contracts, or extended service policies fall into the mist of this second category.

Extended warranties are supposed to pay (in full or in part) for specified repairs for a specific period of time after the expiration of the factory warranty. They can be a great value. They can also be a significant waste of money. It gets quite foggy in the details. What exactly is covered? How long? How much? Are there hidden charges?

There are numerous extended warranty companies and an even wider variety of warranty packages available: silver, gold, platinum, platinum-plus, and a host of other confidence-building words. What’s the best plan, and are extended service contracts worth the money? Extended warranties, like life insurance policies, are a numbers game. They’re a gamble. You pay $2500-$4500 for a 2 year, 100,000-mile protection plan and hope that you get at least that back in warranty repairs. The provider on the other hand, hopes to pay out less than it insured.

There are three major types of plan providers: The manufacturer, the dealership/third party, and third party providers. Each one has its assets and liabilities (discussed ahead).

What exactly is covered in an extended service plan? As mentioned above, what’s covered depends on the package purchased. Some plans only cover the power train: the mechanical components of the engine, transmission, and rear-end. Others cover the power train plus some electrical components. Still others cover electrical, advanced electrical, and computer components. Some only cover what’s listed in the contract. This is called a “Stated” or “Named” contract. This means that if it’s not stated, it’s not covered. Some cover bumper-to-bumper, similar to a manufacturer warranty, except trim pieces, upholstery, exterior components, cosmetic items, and a number of other exclusions.

Never before has the adage, “The devil’s in the details,” been so applicable.

Manufacturer Extended Plans: Extended service plans from the manufacturer are the best in terms of coverage, convenience, and quality. Coverage is similar to the warranty while the vehicle was under its original factory warranty—with similar exclusions stated above. The billing is direct, meaning you don’t have to pay out-of-pocket, except for a deductible, if applicable. Quality is great too, as an extended warranty from the manufacturer will only use factory parts. They also have money, so there’s less risk of bankruptcy.

The down side of manufacturer extended service plans is that they are not cheap. These plans are generally the most expensive, require low mileage standards, and necessitate servicing your vehicle at a dealer for coverage.

Dealership/Third Party Plans: Extended warranties from a dealership are actually from a third party insurer. These providers are “generally” reputable, but not always. However, if there is an issue (such as the warranty provider filing chapter 11, which is quite frequent in the extended service contract business), the dealer “may” step in to cover any repairs that would have been covered under the defunct plan. Also, claims are easier: billing is direct because the dealership has a working relationship with the provider, and there is usually agreement on price.

Some dealers set up their own “internal extended warranty,” which is honored by the selling dealer. This is rare, and should not be confused with a manufacturer warranty. Important: extended warranties are often passed off as “manufacturer” warranties. They’re not. This is a sales trick. Also be aware that there is a significant mark up, as the dealership is merely acting as the middle man. Lastly, extended warranty companies often go bankrupt without warning.

Third Party Plans: These plans are called third party plans because they are outside the responsibility of the manufacturer and the service center performing the repairs (unless there’s a working relationship with a repair shop as stated above).

There are hundreds of extended service contract companies. Some have good reputations, some don’t. Third party plans are frequently sold by used car dealers. You may also receive an official looking notification in the mail stating that your warranty is expiring, and directing you to call an 800 number ASAP. This is a marketing tactic by an independent warranty provider. Despite the “official” appearance of the postcard or envelope, it’s not from the manufacturer. Manufacturers do not send out reminders about warranty expirations.

Given the wide-variety of third party plans there are numerous red flags.

1) Claims: Extended warranty companies will be quick to tell you that filing claims is easy, and that the service center gets paid immediately via a credit card. Thus, there’s no out-of-pocket expense for you. However, the warranty company can’t dictate a service center’s policies. Some service centers will only accept payment from the repair customer. Thus the burden is on the repair customer to fill out the forms, contact their warranty company, and await reimbursement via check, which can take 2-8 weeks.

It is the service center’s responsibility to contact the extended warranty company to let them know what’s wrong with the vehicle and to check coverage. This process can take anywhere from 20 minutes to 20 days, sometimes more, depending on the degree of repairs and especially the amount. (See $1000 and Adjusters ahead)

Service centers and extended warranty companies frequently battle over the “fair” price of repairs. Many repair shops no longer negotiate, and just state the price, leaving the contract holder (i.e., the service customer) responsible for the difference.

2) Rentals: Rental coverage is a great benefit. However, there are fixed rates and time limits. In other words, the warranty company is not going to pay to have you drive a Mercedes-Benz, even if you drive a Benz. Rental allowances range from $25 to $35 per day. Also, rental coverage is based on the number of hours it takes to repair the vehicle, NOT how long your car has been at the shop.

3) $1000 and Adjusters: Repairs that approach $1000, or that require a significant amount of work, will be cause for the warranty company to call in an adjuster to confirm the diagnosis. This will delay the repairs by a minimum of 24-48 hours. It may cost you additional money when an adjuster is involved. You may be charged to have your vehicle pulled back into the shop for inspection, as well as for the time spent with the adjuster.

4) Tear-down Charges: In many cases, an extended warranty company will require that a particular component be taken apart for inspection to determine if the repair is indeed needed and covered. This puts the service customer in a very awkward position. The customer will have to authorize potentially hundreds of dollars of tear-down expense in the hopes that the repair is covered. If it’s not, the customer is out the hundreds in tear-down PLUS the actual repair. This does happen!

Common Myths:

1) “Extended warranties cover maintenance services and brake work.”

No. Extended warranty plans do not cover maintenance or wearable items. Brake pads and rotors are wearable parts. Maintenance such as coolant, brake and transmission flushes, tune-ups, services, oil changes, bulbs, wipers, and more are not covered.

2) “They told me it’s bumper-to-bumper, so it covers everything right?”

Wrong. Not even a factory warranty covers everything. When pitching the sale for the extended warranty, one is very often lead to believe that he or she will have nothing to worry about. This is just not true on so many levels. For example, if your bumper falls off it’s not covered.

3) “I don’t have to pay anything, right?”

Wrong. Despite the claims of 100% coverage, there are many factors involved. The labor rates, labor hours, diagnostic times, parts prices, and machine work are just a few items that often conflict with a service center’s policies. Some extended contracts only pay a maximum of $55 per hour, and only allow one half hour for diagnostic time. This is generally unacceptable to the service center, as labor rates have skyrocketed to over $100 per hour at many dealerships, and average $75 at local shops. Moreover, with the complexity of today’s vehicles, diagnostic time is at a premium. The customer pays the difference.

4) “If I have an expensive problem, I can just purchase an extended service contract.”

It’s unethical, but it’s an option many attempt. However, most service contracts have a minimum time requirement before the first claim can be filed: usually three months. Also, many contracts require that your vehicle be inspected by a service center to check for pre-existing conditions—just like life insurance.

5) “My contract lasts up to 100,000 miles.”

Only if the time limit doesn’t run out first. All extended warranty plans have a time limit. For example, a typical contract will state that the vehicle is covered for two years or 100,000 miles, which ever comes first. During the sales pitch, however, the emphasis will be on the 100,000 miles, not the time.

6) “If my car breaks, it gets fixed like new.” Actually, depending on the contract, an extended warranty company can insist on installing remanufactured or even used parts.

Items commonly not covered by extended warranties: • Any component with a pre-existing condition • Any component related to a Technical Service Bulletin (TSB) • Many components that has been updated by the manufacturer • Extra components necessary “due to manufacturer updates” to complete the repair • Trim pieces: molding, cup holders, dashboard, console, body parts, glass • Many accessories: radios, DVD players, TVs • Many expensive electronics: climate control units, navigation assemblies

Service contract positives: Some service contracts are transferable, and may thus increase the resale value of a vehicle. Many come with trip interruption reimbursement, towing and 24-hour road side. Some plans can also be financed, or have E-Z Pay Plans. Others offer a money-back guarantee.

What should you do? You’ll get lots of advice about doing the research, comparing plans, and reading the fine print. This is all sound advice. But what about doing the math?

Let’s say a plan costs $2500 for 2 years or 100,000 miles, whichever comes first. To break even you’ll need a minimum of $1250 per year in covered repairs, excluding regular maintenance. Remember covered is the vital word here.

Another way to break it down is to anticipate having to pay $104.17 per month over the next two years in “covered” repairs. Do you want to take that bet?

What could happen? You could double your money or more in repair work. You could conceivably get a new engine and transmission (or used ones anyway). You could also easily spend $2500 for a service contract, and still have to pay another $2500 for repairs, which for a variety of reasons, were not covered under your plan. Now you’re out $5000.

Alternatively, you could keep the initial $2500. In many ways all an extended warranty does is prepay for repairs. You could stick the money in the bank and collect interest. Then you could withdraw the money for repairs as needed.

Another consideration that’s rarely discussed is the cause of the problems. Many car repairs problems are the result of wear and tear, neglected maintenance, physical damage, or acts of God—such as flood damage. None of this is covered. The gamble only covers failed components.

If the vehicle you’re driving does cost $2500 to $4500 in repairs due to outright failed components, is it a vehicle you even want to consider keeping? A vehicle that needs this kind of repair work due to mechanical, electrical, or computer failures may not be worth it. The $2500-$4500 would be better spent on an upgrade to a quality vehicle rather than insuring a lemon.

There’s no question that auto repair is expensive, and even quality cars break from time to time. But do they breakdown to the tune of $2500-$4500? That’s a hefty bet on a “possibility.”

Terence O’Hara from the Washington Post makes an excellent assessment about extended warranties in general. He writes:

…extended warranties play upon a basic human trait to avoid loss, even if it means sacrificing a possible future gain…the gain is all the other things of value that a consumer could buy with the money that was spent on a warranty

What’s the best plan? Money in your bank account!

Nowadays, hundreds of articles advice people on what to look for before purchasing a new vehicle. But, very few articles advice a prospective car owner on what things he or she should avoid doing.

- Never enter a negotiation zone unprepared

Even if you know nothing about cars -or negotiation for that matter- it is in your best interest to enter the "negotiation arena" well-prepared and "armed." Collect as much information as possible from a variety of sources and take a mechanical savvy friend along to the dealership of your choice. It is always a good idea to be able to inspect the car at the point of purchase; much better staying a bit longer at the dealership than having to call later only to learn that "this model has always experienced similar mechanical problems and you have not purchased any service-guarantee." Do not enter the field as an amateur; especially if you are one. Compare cars and prices, decide on the maximum available budget and stay within your price range, secure your finances beforehand and never accept whatever the price-tag says. There is always room for negotiating a better deal, even if that is in a form of a rebate or a 5-year mechanical service!

- Research is not enough for your set of car keys

You can get online, you can ask around, you struggle with the information you will be able easily to retrieve for days. But that in many cases means you are left exhausted, confused and as time passes by, possible in despair. Overwhelming yourself with a plethora of data will not do you any good. Just stop to think things through before you act. No dealer will hold a gun to your head, at least not literally, since they need you more than you need them. It is the law of supply and demand they bow to, as any good salesman, which means that at this point in time you are in control. Enjoy it and never go to a dealership unprepared or simply showing that you are unsure of your final choice. There is enough "drama" in your life at the moment; you certainly not need any additional source of anxiety. Relax, take a couple of deep breaths, keep your car possible choices under the golden number two and enter the dealerships with confidence. Exactly like window shopping. You are not buying -yet- you are just looking! Ask questions, get quotes, request price offers, ask for any extra cost that might not appear on the price-tag and make clear that you are visiting other places before you conclude. You should never give the impression that you desperately need to buy the specific car you have been asking about for the last hour. Dealers are salespeople and can "smell" need and desire, miles away. Give yourself some time to see, test-drive and inspect the car(s). Even if the dealer promises you what it might seem as an incredible deal, leave the car dealership without signing any papers or leaving a down-payment; especially if that is your first day looking. Have courage and patience -attitude here is the key- and you will conquer your goal sooner than expected. That’s the spirit you should have.

If you know about engines then you’re probably familiar with the name Kohler, a manufacturer of some of the world’s best engines ever invented.

The Kohler Company got its start in the 1920s when it created the Kohler Automatic Power Light 1500-watt Model “A” generator…whew, what a mouthful! The name doesn’t quite make it clear what the invention was, but if you haven’t already guessed it, it was an engine. This engine was designed to be put to use in rural areas and was powered by a four-cylinder water-cooled engine and could be hooked up to a 120v DC current, a great asset to farmers who lived away from the hustle and bustle of the booming cities.

While this first engine was a mild success, it wasn’t until 1939 when Kohler really began to thrive by developing liquid-cooled diesel engines. These engines ranged from single cylinder to four-cylinder, and from 5hp to 20hp. Kohler products were a big part of the war effort against Germany and Japan, which led to huge profits from government contracts.

By 1948, Kohler was beginning to manufacture “stand alone” engines for industrial applications in their first ever engine factory. Three years later Kohler had manufactured the K90 cast iron single cylinder air-cooled engine. By the end of the 1950s Kohler had an entire line of engines, as well as interchangeable parts. There have been no limits for this company ever in its 80 year history.

The list of the engineering accomplishments of this company are many and could be turned into a novel, but suffice it to say that to this day Kohler is still engineering what they believe to be the strongest and most dependable engines in the business, and they also have many satisfied customers who will provide evidence of this fact. And as if this wasn’t enough, Kohler also backs its engines with a full lifetime warranty and full after sale service, a practice they have used since their inception into the engineering world.

Kohler still manufacturers a wide variety of engine sizes for all type of uses today. You can find their products in lawn mowers and at construction sites powering generators and other equipment. The horsepower of their engines has not changed much in the company’s history, ranging from 4hp to 30hp today. The engines also come in either air or liquid cooled designs and can meet the application needs of all customers.

Kohler is a company that forms lifelong bonds with its customers, and periodically updates its customers on what’s new in the engineering world and what new products Kohler has come out with. Kohler understands that many people put their confidence and trust into their products, which in turn drives them to strive for excellence.

A car with an excellent paint job is one of life’s true joys. It’s like being the kid with the best bike in the neighbourhood or the biggest piece of birthday cake. Whether you drive a ‘47 Eldorado, a ‘66 Beetle or an ‘07 fortwo, a great paint job will take your vehicle from ho-hum to headturner.

Actually creating a great automotive paint job takes skill and finesse. Automotive painting is one of the most arduous and painstaking tasks in crafting an automobile. It can also be one of the most costly. If you are on a budget, there are options for you. Some paint shops can deliver a good paint job for a fair price. Your other option is to take on the task yourself. If the paint job is a success, you’ll have even more to brag about: a hot set of wheels AND a "do it yourself" tale to tell. Achieving a great paint job is a step-by-step process. You simply can’t rush automotive painting. Follow the basic steps of preparation, primer application, blocking, final paint coat and detail application. This can seem like a daunting task for any beginner, but the entire job can be completed in just a few days.

Prepare Before you begin, check with local bylaws and regulations regarding the use of spray paint in homes and enclosed areas. The last thing you need is a legal holdup delaying your painting job.

Cleaning the car is your next crucial step. The car must be spotlessly clean and free of dirt. Use detergents to clean the car top to bottom, and then follow up with grease removers. After the car has been cleaned, it’s time to begin sanding. An air sander (preferably a dual-action sander) should be used to remove the old paint from the car. This kind of sander will not cause body damage because it removes paint without digging like other sanders and grinders. Every trace of paint must be removed to create a perfect palette for your new paint job. Automotive detailing tape or even duct tape can be used to cover and protect other parts of the car, including plastic moldings and windows. In addition to removing the old paint, all traces of rust have to be sanded off. Rust will spread if ignored or untreated, and the last thing you want is body rot happening beneath your spiffy new paint. You can repair minor body flaws on the car’s surface using fillers. Shape the compound with care using a sanding board, then follow up with a glazing compound. This step will help to ensure a smooth-as-glass finish on your ride.

Mask After the whole car has been initially cleaned, then sanded, a final cleaning takes place and the vehicle is ready to be masked. In this step, every part of the car that shouldn’t be touched by paint is covered and protected. Remember, you will be using high-grade automotive paint that doesn’t wash off with water. Cover your windows, every light and reflector, all window rubbers, all chrome, tires, wheels, door handles, wipers.. take a good look and what needs to be masked. If you don’t want even the tiniest bit of over spray on it, cover it up! The tools and materials needed for masking are available at automotive supply warehouses and hardware stores.

Prime Priming is an essential step to providing a good foundation for your new paint. A flawless prime coat will help you to achieve a perfect paint job. Valspar epoxy is a good primer choice, combining dependable filling capabilities with minimal shrinking. After the primer has been applied, a second coat in a contrasting colour should be applied on top of the first layer. This will serve as a sanding guide. The primer should be sanded to a smooth finish, but don’t sand too vigorously or you could actually damage the body of the car. When the priming is complete, a sealer is applied and a final sanding takes place.

Finishing off In finishing off the automotive painting, it is essential to achieve uniform colour. The spray gun should be held ten to twelve inches away from the body to avoid streaks and runs. This is necessary when applying the basecoat, final coat and clear coat.

Regardless of the type of car you drive, a new paint job can turn it into a real showstopper. Automotive painting can be a time consuming task, but you can do it if you take it step by step. The creative energy will be good for your soul, and the compliments you receive will be great for your confidence.