Ideally, you should change your motor oil every three months or after every 3,000 miles. If you often drive around in hot or dusty conditions, you might even want to change oil more often than that.

The process is pretty simple, and as easy as one-two-three. Step one is getting ready, step two is draining the oil and changing the oil filter while step three is installing the new oil.

(1) Getting Ready

When getting ready, it is important to have the right tools and materials on hand, such as jack stands, a socket set and an oil drain pan. Let your car engine run for 10 minutes before you drain the oil since warm oil is easier to drain than cold. Make sure you park on a level surface or, if your car has a low clearance, jack it up or drive it onto a ramp. If youre jacking up the car, use two jack stands instead of one. (An additional jack costs about $20 and that is a small price to pay to spare your face from being squished by a badly balanced car.) You might want to check your cars manual about the weight of oil and type of oil filter you need to use.

(2) Draining the Oil and Changing the Oil Filter

To drain the oil, crawl under the car and look for the oil drain plug under the engine near the front of the car. Position your pan beneath the plug then use a socket wrench to loosen the plug, turning counterclockwise. Once loosened, you can use your hand to remove the plug and the hot oil starts pouring out. Make sure all the old oil is drained into the pan. Once its completely drained, wipe the drain plug and the plug opening. Now replace the drain plug gasket and use a wrench to reinstall the plug but dont make it too tight.

Next, look for the oil filter. They are usually at the side of the engine. Place the oil pan beneath the filter in case any oil remains. Unscrew the oil filter (use gloves if it is too hot) and wipe the filter area clean, especially where it mounts to the engine. Dab a bit of your new oil on the rubber seal of the new filter and then screw it in by hand. You dont have to use a wrench to tighten the oil filter.

(3) Installing New Oil

Remove the oil filler cap thats located at the top of the engine. Position the funnel at the opening and slowly start pouring in the new oil You might want to check your manual for the proper oil capacity but, typically, you will need four or five quarts of oil. Once youre done, put back the oil filler cap. Start the engine, let it run for a minute and then check the dipstick. If you need to, add more oil. Now check for any leaks near the oil drain plug and the filter. If you do find leaks, simply tighten the plug or oil filter.

Youre done. But dont forget to clean up. Carefully wipe away any excess oil and put the old oil into a plastic container then dispose of it. Dont just pour it anywhere, though. Better to take it to the recycle center or other authorized locations.

One thing the hybrid cars promise users is the most, is their ability to save gas by consuming less, as well as reduction in atmospheric pollution. For that reason more people prefer to own hybrid vehicles these days. Hybrid cars run on both fuel and engines that are powered by battery. This means that, they consume less oil and emit less gas when compared to gasoline powered vehicles. Hybrid car, no doubt is a possible solution to the sporadic hike in fuel price in the oil market.

Because of the benefits or advantages accrued from using or owning hybrid cars, the US government had welcomed and supported the manufacturing of this model of car. It has also allowed importation as well as encouraging automobile company in the country like Ford and General Motors to manufacture hybrid cars.

Some of the advantages derived from hybrid cars include the following:

(a) Savings on low gas usage:

Hybrid car combines both electric power and gasoline powered engine. Hence each function all by itself, and combines together depending on which is weaker or stronger when running. The regenerative braking feature enables the engine to compliment each other

(b) Consistent performance:

Unlike the traditional gas powered engine, hybrid cars do not require transmissions to make their engines work at full capacity even at reduced speeds. Hybrid cars function normal and on a consistent basis at any motor speed.

(c) Environmentally friendly:

Hybrid cars, because of their combination of electric powered and gasoline – powered engines, emit significantly less gas into the environment. The effect of this in the long-run will be a clean population free environment around the globe.

(d) Convenience:

Less amount is expended on gasoline for hybrid cars. This is because of the battery powered engine used by hybrid cars. This is in perfect contrast to owners of the convention gas powered cars who cannot help but feel the scourge of the soaring fuel pump price. Also, most hybrid cars are easy to maneuver on the road because of its light weight. The designs are also something to behold and they come in style.

Some are of the opinion that buying or owning a hybrid car is not ideal for now because of its expensive nature. Notwithstanding its cost, the advantages to be derived from owning this type of vehicle in the long run is worth it. It will be better if more people demand for hybrid cars because this will induce the manufacturers to manufacture more and the price will eventually fall in no time at all.

Used car prices are elusive, despite numerous attempts to harness them. We’ve all heard of Retail, Private Party and Trade-in values. But do these “help” in determining a vehicle’s real value? When we turn to the web for prices, it gets even more elusive. One web site places a retail value on a car at $18,000. Another puts it at $21,000. What should we believe?

If sellers are looking to get the highest price for the car they’re selling, and the buyer wants to get the best deal possible, is there such thing as a fair used car price for both parties?

The answer is yes, but both parties have to be on the same page.

We’ll call this “page” Fair Market Value.

That being said, how do we interpret the market to determine fair market value? Since most sellers and buyers are going to try to interpret the market to his or her advantage, let’s even the playing field.

One of the most profound remarks I’ve heard to establish a better playing field for used car pricing comes from industry expert and owner of Medway Imports, Barry Roth. He states:

“To find market value, you need to take all the pricing data you find for a particular vehicle and throw out the high and low prices. What’s left in the middle is where you’ll find a fair market value.”

While this doesn’t address the used car pricing problem entirely, it does remove the unrealistic numbers that many clutch to like the drowning to a life preserver. It moves folks to more reasonable prices according to the market.

A lot of time is spent on popular web sites (for better or worse) to “help” determine used car pricing. But one should also follow and watch the market to see what cars are being advertised and sold for—if they’re being sold at all.

Used car prices are also determined via auction pricing, and industry used car guides such as Black Book and the NADA Official Used Car Guide.

Importantly, even these books don’t settle the used car pricing debate. Here’s a publisher’s note on the inside cover of the latest NADA guide.

It states:

The vehicle values in the N.A.D.A OFFICIAL USED CAR GUIDE,® are developed by N.A.D.A’s editors based on many sources of information. These include reports of actual transactions throughout each area for which the guide is published.

The values in this guide assume a vehicle is clean. Appropriate deductions should be made for reconditioning costs incurred to put the vehicle in a salable condition. An exceptionally clean vehicle or one that bears a guarantee, warranty, or manufacturer certification should bring a premium price.

Please read your guide carefully when determining the value of optional equipment. N.A.D.A.’s editors believe that most optional equipment has little or no value on older cars. This is especially true of options that cost relatively little when new and which deteriorate with age or use. Only the more popular vehicle options are listed in the guide. Unless otherwise stated, all vehicles are assumed to be equipped with automatic transmission, air conditioning, compact disc player (and/or AM/FM stereo cassette,) power steering, rear window defroster, and tilt steering wheel. For other standard options, please review each vehicle’s listing.

As you can see, even the most respected used car pricing guide “assumes” quite a bit, leaning heavily on the “opinions” of its editors to determine “appropriate deductions” and thus the ultimate value of a particular car.

So where does this leave car buyers and car sellers? After both parties throw out the high and low prices, it leaves them in the middle of the market. This is where they’ll each get a fair shake(assuming vehicles are “clean”). Finding and picking a good or “clean” car is another story.

If you are someone that takes pride in your car or cars, and you install performance car parts, then you already know that you have to be able to take care of these parts. The most popular form of performance car parts is the tires and rims, which can be located and put on to any car ever made. If you go even a little bit of time such as a few weeks without cleaning these parts, it can make the look of your car go from hip to poor right away. Those wheels that have somewhat of a bright finish will look bad if there is an over abundance of brake dust that has accumulated itself on the rim.

If you are using a bleaching agent to clean these areas, you are actually doing more harm than you are good. When cleaning these areas you want to use a top quality washing soap, a wheel cleaner, a tire brush, and smaller brush, maybe even a toothbrush, to fully clean the smaller parts of your rims. When you are washing your car, you should always begin by cleaning your wheels and only do that once they have cooled off from your driving. You run the risk of staining your tires if you wash them when they are warm. You have bought these performance car parts, so you should also take care of them.

The type of cleaner that is recommended for cleaning the wheels are the types that you can spray on, leave a few seconds, and then simply rinse off. These types of cleaners are free of acids and will not damage your tires like some others on the market today.

Once you have completed this, it is on to the next performance car part; the rims. The first thing to do with the rims is to give them a good scrubbing to remove the dirt that has heavily set in to them. Then you should put some more cleaner onto the rims, and begin using the tire brush, and the toothbrush, to intricately scrub the area. You may have to repeat this a few times to make sure there are no spots that you missed.

You should always remember to thoroughly dry off your rims and tires before putting any kind of preservative on the tires. This way there is not left over residue such as cleaner that will get locked into the tire through the preservative.

When it comes to the car loan application, you will find that not only will you have to wait some time to be approved, but also you will want to take at least an hour at the dealership The difference between filing and application online and at the dealership is just in time. It’s about the same questions, but you can do it in the convenience of your own home. You will be able to get a car loan application at the dealership in the morning, and then fill out all the paper work during the day.

You can then take it back to the dealership after work or just later in the day. This way you can get everything you need to without spending hours at the dealership. That is a few ways that you can save some time on the car loan application, but why does it take so long at the dealer?

Well, first, it takes them an hour to assess what your current trade in is worth. You will hang out in the lobby and they will start some of the paper work for you. Then you sit some more so that they can clean your car out and take your keys. You may also wait some long for the paper work to go through, and then you realize that once you can leave, it’s been three or even five hours. It takes a lot to be able to purchase a car and then drove off with it. Some of the time you do not have everything or come unprepared to purchase and the timing of your wait is even more of a hassle because you have to go home or come back later. But, as for the car loan application, there are certain things that you need to fill out.

You will need to fill out all your location information. Then you will need to state whose names go on the title. Sometimes there is only one or you may include your mate on the title. Then you have to gather your driver’s license and insurance information. Some states require you to have insurance and some don’t. For you to drive off the lot, you have to have insurance in most states. However, you need to know your laws. If you are caught driving without insurance, you’re in a lot of trouble, but it’s not a requirement for all states to show proof before purchase.

Then you fill out all your loan options. They will tell you who you are filling with and the rates and they will make up all the number so that you don’t. Then you fill out whose paying for it and any co-signers. When you sign the contract, it is binding. If you sign your name you just bought yourself a car, so you may sure you can follow through with the payments. There are no returns on cars.

High performance and low cost were Plymouth’s design goals for a brand-new model in 1968. The company believed that the time was right for a factory hot rod for the youth market, and its guess was right on the money. It would have the macho name of Road Runner.

It was also a very “B Body” budget-friendly machine which made it another very important reason for purchasing. The high cost ruled out many of the muscle cars of the era.

Less money meant less chrome on the body, along with fewer options. In fact, those that intended their Road Runner for the drag strip sometimes ordered the Runner with the small hub-cap-style wheel covers and even deleted the radio.

A member of the Belvedere line, the new model came with a stock 383cid engine capable of 335 horsepower. But that was just the beginning, the awesome 426 Hemi and 440 Six-Barrel engines would become available the following model year.

Of course, the Hemi has been a legend for many years, but that triple-carbed 440 engine had adopted a cult following of its own. A significant body change had been planned for the ‘70 model, but that would be put off until the 1971 model year.

The 1970 440 continued to be capable of 390 horsepower when equipped with the so-called Air Grabber induction system. That interesting system provided a solid connection between the hood scoops and engine once the hood was closed. The sides of the pop-up Air Grabber door were eye-catching with evil-looking shark’s teeth etched on the sides.

The front end was menacing-looking with the blackout grille containing twin headlights mounted in its ends. The aggressive bumper contained a pair of round parking lights on either side of the license plate.

When looking at the ‘70 Road Runner, and comparing it with the other garnish MOPAR muscle machines of the era, it appeared downright stripped. Oh, there was a stripe and 440+6 lettering on the hood, but that was about it. About the only eye catcher was the simulated rear-fender-scoop cut-out.

Some of the models did, however, have a dust trail that reached from near the front of the front fender and disappeared into that scoop.

The only sizable name identification externally was the “Road Runner” lettering contained in a stripe located on the rear end of the car, just above the tail lights. As far as engine identification, in addition to the aforementioned 440+6 designations on the hood, there was also a “440” in the rear of a hood bulge.

With that famous name, the company made the most of it with a special horn to sound like that famous cartoon bird. The horn made the Road Runner ‘Beep Beep’ sound which was unmistakable.

Mike Cenky of Huber Heights, Ohio owns this ‘70 Road Runner hardtop with such an six-barrel 440 engine installation. A retired phone company employee, Mike acquired the four-speed model in 1988 in “fair condition.” I redid the powertrain and suspension system which both needed attention.”

As he was restoring the Road Runner, Mike came across some interesting clues that provided firm indications of the car’s early history. “The engine had a scatter shield, there was an indication of once having a drag-style line-lock set-up, and the rear wheelwells had been trimmed for large racing slicks.

“I bet that it made many runs down the drag strip during those days.” He indicated, though, that type of activity is not in his plans for the orange beauty. “Oh, I might get on it once-in-awhile, but that’s about it!”

Cenky did, however, make several minor changes for better driving comfort. “I used a wider eight-inch rear wheel. Then too, I changed the factory 4.10 ratio rear end to a 3.54 unit which makes the car much more streetable.” For a cleaner look, the small Road Runner decals-normally on the front quarters-and small chrome RR emblems on the rear quarters.

The car is coated in a flashy Tor Red color, a color which is carried to the exposed wheels which carry the small wheel covers, and in MOPAR style, also into the engine compartment. It’s highlighted with that broad black hood stripe which contains the hood scoop and is outlined by two narrow stripes. There is definitely a racecar look about this stunning machine.

The car also carries the Super Track Pack which included front disc brakes, heavy duty cooling package, special cooling fan, and the Dana rear end. The interior is done in black vinyl and sports bucket seats.

Cenky explained that even though the car is 36 years old, most people at car shows know exactly what it is. “I am always hearing from them that they owned one or knew somebody that did,” he explained. Mike’s long been a Chrysler fan, and it comes naturally. “My dad worked for the company for many years and all we ever had were Chrysler cars.” And over the years,

Mike has owned a number of vintage performance MOPARs, including a ‘67 440 R/T, a ‘70 Dodge Challenger 440 Six-Pack, a ‘72 340 Plymouth Duster, and a ‘70 Chrysler 300.

There is no mistaking the look of those Chrysler-built ‘60s and early muscle machines, and they are certainly a favorite of mine.”

And ours too!

Copyright © 2005-2006 Muscle car News Magazine Privacy Policy

High performance and low cost were Plymouth’s design goals for a brand-new model in 1968. The company believed that the time was right for a factory hot rod for the youth market, and its guess was right on the money. It would have the macho name of Road Runner.

It was also a very “B Body” budget-friendly machine which made it another very important reason for purchasing. The high cost ruled out many of the muscle cars of the era.

Less money meant less chrome on the body, along with fewer options. In fact, those that intended their Road Runner for the drag strip sometimes ordered the Runner with the small hub-cap-style wheel covers and even deleted the radio.

A member of the Belvedere line, the new model came with a stock 383cid engine capable of 335 horsepower. But that was just the beginning, the awesome 426 Hemi and 440 Six-Barrel engines would become available the following model year.

Of course, the Hemi has been a legend for many years, but that triple-carbed 440 engine had adopted a cult following of its own. A significant body change had been planned for the ‘70 model, but that would be put off until the 1971 model year.

The 1970 440 continued to be capable of 390 horsepower when equipped with the so-called Air Grabber induction system. That interesting system provided a solid connection between the hood scoops and engine once the hood was closed. The sides of the pop-up Air Grabber door were eye-catching with evil-looking shark’s teeth etched on the sides.

The front end was menacing-looking with the blackout grille containing twin headlights mounted in its ends. The aggressive bumper contained a pair of round parking lights on either side of the license plate.

When looking at the ‘70 Road Runner, and comparing it with the other garnish MOPAR muscle machines of the era, it appeared downright stripped. Oh, there was a stripe and 440+6 lettering on the hood, but that was about it. About the only eye catcher was the simulated rear-fender-scoop cut-out.

Some of the models did, however, have a dust trail that reached from near the front of the front fender and disappeared into that scoop.

The only sizable name identification externally was the “Road Runner” lettering contained in a stripe located on the rear end of the car, just above the tail lights. As far as engine identification, in addition to the aforementioned 440+6 designations on the hood, there was also a “440” in the rear of a hood bulge.

With that famous name, the company made the most of it with a special horn to sound like that famous cartoon bird. The horn made the Road Runner ‘Beep Beep’ sound which was unmistakable.

Mike Cenky of Huber Heights, Ohio owns this ‘70 Road Runner hardtop with such an six-barrel 440 engine installation. A retired phone company employee, Mike acquired the four-speed model in 1988 in “fair condition.” I redid the powertrain and suspension system which both needed attention.”

As he was restoring the Road Runner, Mike came across some interesting clues that provided firm indications of the car’s early history. “The engine had a scatter shield, there was an indication of once having a drag-style line-lock set-up, and the rear wheelwells had been trimmed for large racing slicks.

“I bet that it made many runs down the drag strip during those days.” He indicated, though, that type of activity is not in his plans for the orange beauty. “Oh, I might get on it once-in-awhile, but that’s about it!”

Cenky did, however, make several minor changes for better driving comfort. “I used a wider eight-inch rear wheel. Then too, I changed the factory 4.10 ratio rear end to a 3.54 unit which makes the car much more streetable.” For a cleaner look, the small Road Runner decals-normally on the front quarters-and small chrome RR emblems on the rear quarters.

The car is coated in a flashy Tor Red color, a color which is carried to the exposed wheels which carry the small wheel covers, and in MOPAR style, also into the engine compartment. It’s highlighted with that broad black hood stripe which contains the hood scoop and is outlined by two narrow stripes. There is definitely a racecar look about this stunning machine.

The car also carries the Super Track Pack which included front disc brakes, heavy duty cooling package, special cooling fan, and the Dana rear end. The interior is done in black vinyl and sports bucket seats.

Cenky explained that even though the car is 36 years old, most people at car shows know exactly what it is. “I am always hearing from them that they owned one or knew somebody that did,” he explained. Mike’s long been a Chrysler fan, and it comes naturally. “My dad worked for the company for many years and all we ever had were Chrysler cars.” And over the years,

Mike has owned a number of vintage performance MOPARs, including a ‘67 440 R/T, a ‘70 Dodge Challenger 440 Six-Pack, a ‘72 340 Plymouth Duster, and a ‘70 Chrysler 300.

There is no mistaking the look of those Chrysler-built ‘60s and early muscle machines, and they are certainly a favorite of mine.”

And ours too!

Copyright © 2005-2006 Muscle car News Magazine Privacy Policy

Flooded Vehicle - is considered, a vehicle that was damaged by water level raised to seating level. Most flood damaged cars, trucks and SUVs are sent to a salvage yard, but some are cleaned up and put into the auto market where they’ll be bought by unsuspecting buyers who think they’re getting a great deal.

Flooded water leaves long lasting damage. Electrical and mechanical components will probably fail early. Mold and mildew can also create a serious problem. Any remaining warranty is voided. While buying a used car be on the lookout for these cars even if you don’t live in a flooded area, because dishonest people move them around. Here are some tips and points to detect flooded vehicles.

I) Get a Vehicle History Report Enter the vehicle’s VIN number to get a history report. Carfax does a great job of researching a vehicle’s background, but a clean slate is not a 100% guarantee that the car or truck hasn‘t suffered water damage. You can also contact CarSnaps and ask them for advice or request a vehicle background report.

II) Look for Moisture. Look for moisture within the lights. Check the glove compartment, console and trunk and inspect them for any sign of dampness moisture or the dirt that looks like a leftover from a flood. Look under the hood for accumulated dirt or signs of rust. Check under the seats for signs of moisture.

III) Take a deep Sniff This can really help in detecting flooded vehicles. Do you smell a sour, mildewy-like odor? Soaked seats, carpeting and other components are difficult to dry in a hurry, so there’s plenty of time for mold and mildew to grow, especially if the flood occurred in a hot and humid location.

IV) Look for Mismatched Interior Components Does the carpeting look brand new or mismatched or too new for the vehicle? Do seat covers seem out of place with the carpeting? Components that don’t match-up might have been changed in a hurry after the vehicle was pulled from flood waters.

V) Request free advice from CarSnaps Contact CarSnaps.com and request free advice from their qualified technicians who are there to help and it is free so there is nothing to lose.

VI) Let Your Technician Examine the Vehicle Take the vehicle to a technician if possible and ask for a thorough examination. Experienced auto technicians see evidence of flood damage more often than most individuals do, so they know exactly what to look for.

VII) Turn it On and Go for a Drive Turn the car on and check every electrical system possible, including the exterior and interior lights, the gauges, the clock and the audio system and the dash lights that display air bag and seat belt information. Go for a drive and test electrical components again to make sure they work correctly. 90% of the time you will be able to suspect an electrical problem with flooded vehicle unless it is repaired or electrical parts are not damaged which is very rare though.

Flooded vehicles should be avoided as much as possible even if seller tell you about the manufacturer warranty because warranty voids when a car goes through a flood. If you suspect a flooded vehicle walk away from it. Flooded vehicles are not worth the hassle they provide.

They use less fuel. They are much more efficient. They are much less polluting. And what’s more, they require much less maintenance. Yes, hybrids really do score better on all counts when compared to conventional vehicles. In fact not only do they need much less service, they are also made to run better and last longer. So you should take all these factors into consideration when you are making a choice. Let’s take a look at why they don’t need as much maintenance.

Firstly, they have fewer parts than a conventional car and hence, fewer parts to wear out. It’s the way they are built. There’s no regular starter and this technology means that there is one part less that needs to be replaced. No starter also means there is no chance of accidentally grinding the flywheel. The battery and the motor too do not require too much maintenance. The engine lasts longer than a conventional engine and requires as much maintenance perhaps as a conventional one. A hybrid does not need any valve adjustments done and even if there are valves, they do not get worn out because the engine does not run constantly. And the injectors do not need regular cleaning, in fact maybe they never need to be cleaned because there is hardly any deposit on them.

The hybrid car uses electricity to run the air-conditioning system unlike the conventional ones that use a traditional pulley that is driven off a gas motor. So this means there is no air-conditioning belt to wear out. There is also no belt used for the steering because it is not hydraulic but electric. So it has very little kickback even when driving over rough, uneven roads.

The hybrid car’s generator can multi-task. The generator is an important part of the hybrid car and there is a separate gas engine that powers it. A hybrid engine is really very small, maybe 10 to 20 horsepower and it is so designed that it gets maximum efficiency if it runs at one speed. Because the generator does many tasks, there is less wear and tear of the other parts and when braking or coasting, the car can recapture the energy. So there is no wastage of the battery and the battery does not need to be replaced very often. With the generator handling a lot of the braking – in fact 80% - it means that extends the life of the brakes too. There is also less chance of the rotors getting warped. Thanks to less of a heat build up, the life of the brake fluid is extended too and the brake pads last longer.

Hybrid cars also have warranties that are much longer. Most of the Toyota and Honda cars have much longer warranties on their hybrids than on the conventional ones. There’s an 8 year or an 80,000 mile warranty on the Honda Insight while for the Toyota Prius, you’ll get a 100,000 mile warranty or 8 years on the hybrid system and the battery. These longer warranties make the hybrid an attractive buy.

If you are making up your mind between a conventional car and a hybrid one, look at all the long-term advantages. Hybrids are built so they last longer and they don’t need as much looking after as a conventional car. Add to that the fact that they don’t guzzle as much gas and have fewer parts, therefore less maintenance and you’ll see why it makes good sense to decide in favor of the hybrid.

Regardless of your car audio listening habits: broadcast radio, satellite radio, or CDs, finding the desirable speaker combination for your automobile will make your audio experience a positive one. Finding the right system may take some effort and research, but it will be worth it. Improved components which add greater functionality of car audio system means you should know about certain components. These components are speakers, sub woofers, tweeters, amplifiers, ipod adapters and more.

Speakers

Speaker approaches are very important because they are the units that actually reproduce the sound from electrical energy. The right speakers for your auto audio system are extremely critical, given that they are reproducing the actual sound from the stereo itself. When buying speakers, only consider the higher end. Here is what you need to know, and what to look for:

First, let’s start with the types of speakers that you’ll encounter in the car audio world.

A woofer is a large speaker which will reproduce the lower frequencies. The mid speaker is, as its name implies, a medium sized unit which reproduces the middle frequencies. And the tweeter is small and will reproduce the higher sounds.

A sub woofer will give you another dimension in bass: they reproduce the lowest spectrum of the sound. And there is a also a supertweeter which will give you the highest sound in the spectrum.

When you buy speakers, you may be actually buying a "package" of speakers, encompassing some or all of the above. Or, you could purchase them separately.

There are other variations of these speakers available as well. If the car sees a lot of use as well as wear and tear, then buying higher quality components is a great idea.

There are many factors that need to be considered in placing the speakers in the correct position. Basically, they split music signals into separate frequency ranges and sends them to speakers that are designed to best reproduce each frequency range, you can vary the crossover points and adjust the level of separate speakers to achieve the best overall sound in your vehicle.

Power

Amplifiers are devices that take a teeny tiny audio signal from a pre-amp, some power from your battery, and pass it on as a big audio signal to drive speakers. To get the cleanest sound, it is absolutely essential to have as much power as you can afford. It delivers power with clarity.

Factory fitted radios (standard fit radios) in the past had relatively low power outputs of about 3 to 5 watts. Compare this to after market radios where the basic models start at a power output of 45 Watts x 4.

By providing a maximum power of 45 watts, they belong to the class of highly efficient amplifiers that are up to 90% power efficient. It makes the most efficient use of power when compared to other amplifier classes.

Components

A car audio system is a combination of components such as head units, amplifiers, speakers, and auxiliary input devices. A word of advice: if you are supposed to be paying for new car audio approach from an after market dealer, make sure you see the box, the price and installation materials before the company installs the your car audio approach. This way you are assured of getting what you paid for.

If the quality of the audio in your car is important to you, be sure to consider these ideas. Many of us spend a great deal of time in our cars. It is worth the effort to make sure you get what you want.