High performance and low cost were Plymouth’s design goals for a brand-new model in 1968. The company believed that the time was right for a factory hot rod for the youth market, and its guess was right on the money. It would have the macho name of Road Runner.

It was also a very “B Body” budget-friendly machine which made it another very important reason for purchasing. The high cost ruled out many of the muscle cars of the era.

Less money meant less chrome on the body, along with fewer options. In fact, those that intended their Road Runner for the drag strip sometimes ordered the Runner with the small hub-cap-style wheel covers and even deleted the radio.

A member of the Belvedere line, the new model came with a stock 383cid engine capable of 335 horsepower. But that was just the beginning, the awesome 426 Hemi and 440 Six-Barrel engines would become available the following model year.

Of course, the Hemi has been a legend for many years, but that triple-carbed 440 engine had adopted a cult following of its own. A significant body change had been planned for the ‘70 model, but that would be put off until the 1971 model year.

The 1970 440 continued to be capable of 390 horsepower when equipped with the so-called Air Grabber induction system. That interesting system provided a solid connection between the hood scoops and engine once the hood was closed. The sides of the pop-up Air Grabber door were eye-catching with evil-looking shark’s teeth etched on the sides.

The front end was menacing-looking with the blackout grille containing twin headlights mounted in its ends. The aggressive bumper contained a pair of round parking lights on either side of the license plate.

When looking at the ‘70 Road Runner, and comparing it with the other garnish MOPAR muscle machines of the era, it appeared downright stripped. Oh, there was a stripe and 440+6 lettering on the hood, but that was about it. About the only eye catcher was the simulated rear-fender-scoop cut-out.

Some of the models did, however, have a dust trail that reached from near the front of the front fender and disappeared into that scoop.

The only sizable name identification externally was the “Road Runner” lettering contained in a stripe located on the rear end of the car, just above the tail lights. As far as engine identification, in addition to the aforementioned 440+6 designations on the hood, there was also a “440” in the rear of a hood bulge.

With that famous name, the company made the most of it with a special horn to sound like that famous cartoon bird. The horn made the Road Runner ‘Beep Beep’ sound which was unmistakable.

Mike Cenky of Huber Heights, Ohio owns this ‘70 Road Runner hardtop with such an six-barrel 440 engine installation. A retired phone company employee, Mike acquired the four-speed model in 1988 in “fair condition.” I redid the powertrain and suspension system which both needed attention.”

As he was restoring the Road Runner, Mike came across some interesting clues that provided firm indications of the car’s early history. “The engine had a scatter shield, there was an indication of once having a drag-style line-lock set-up, and the rear wheelwells had been trimmed for large racing slicks.

“I bet that it made many runs down the drag strip during those days.” He indicated, though, that type of activity is not in his plans for the orange beauty. “Oh, I might get on it once-in-awhile, but that’s about it!”

Cenky did, however, make several minor changes for better driving comfort. “I used a wider eight-inch rear wheel. Then too, I changed the factory 4.10 ratio rear end to a 3.54 unit which makes the car much more streetable.” For a cleaner look, the small Road Runner decals-normally on the front quarters-and small chrome RR emblems on the rear quarters.

The car is coated in a flashy Tor Red color, a color which is carried to the exposed wheels which carry the small wheel covers, and in MOPAR style, also into the engine compartment. It’s highlighted with that broad black hood stripe which contains the hood scoop and is outlined by two narrow stripes. There is definitely a racecar look about this stunning machine.

The car also carries the Super Track Pack which included front disc brakes, heavy duty cooling package, special cooling fan, and the Dana rear end. The interior is done in black vinyl and sports bucket seats.

Cenky explained that even though the car is 36 years old, most people at car shows know exactly what it is. “I am always hearing from them that they owned one or knew somebody that did,” he explained. Mike’s long been a Chrysler fan, and it comes naturally. “My dad worked for the company for many years and all we ever had were Chrysler cars.” And over the years,

Mike has owned a number of vintage performance MOPARs, including a ‘67 440 R/T, a ‘70 Dodge Challenger 440 Six-Pack, a ‘72 340 Plymouth Duster, and a ‘70 Chrysler 300.

There is no mistaking the look of those Chrysler-built ‘60s and early muscle machines, and they are certainly a favorite of mine.”

And ours too!

Copyright © 2005-2006 Muscle car News Magazine Privacy Policy

High performance and low cost were Plymouth’s design goals for a brand-new model in 1968. The company believed that the time was right for a factory hot rod for the youth market, and its guess was right on the money. It would have the macho name of Road Runner.

It was also a very “B Body” budget-friendly machine which made it another very important reason for purchasing. The high cost ruled out many of the muscle cars of the era.

Less money meant less chrome on the body, along with fewer options. In fact, those that intended their Road Runner for the drag strip sometimes ordered the Runner with the small hub-cap-style wheel covers and even deleted the radio.

A member of the Belvedere line, the new model came with a stock 383cid engine capable of 335 horsepower. But that was just the beginning, the awesome 426 Hemi and 440 Six-Barrel engines would become available the following model year.

Of course, the Hemi has been a legend for many years, but that triple-carbed 440 engine had adopted a cult following of its own. A significant body change had been planned for the ‘70 model, but that would be put off until the 1971 model year.

The 1970 440 continued to be capable of 390 horsepower when equipped with the so-called Air Grabber induction system. That interesting system provided a solid connection between the hood scoops and engine once the hood was closed. The sides of the pop-up Air Grabber door were eye-catching with evil-looking shark’s teeth etched on the sides.

The front end was menacing-looking with the blackout grille containing twin headlights mounted in its ends. The aggressive bumper contained a pair of round parking lights on either side of the license plate.

When looking at the ‘70 Road Runner, and comparing it with the other garnish MOPAR muscle machines of the era, it appeared downright stripped. Oh, there was a stripe and 440+6 lettering on the hood, but that was about it. About the only eye catcher was the simulated rear-fender-scoop cut-out.

Some of the models did, however, have a dust trail that reached from near the front of the front fender and disappeared into that scoop.

The only sizable name identification externally was the “Road Runner” lettering contained in a stripe located on the rear end of the car, just above the tail lights. As far as engine identification, in addition to the aforementioned 440+6 designations on the hood, there was also a “440” in the rear of a hood bulge.

With that famous name, the company made the most of it with a special horn to sound like that famous cartoon bird. The horn made the Road Runner ‘Beep Beep’ sound which was unmistakable.

Mike Cenky of Huber Heights, Ohio owns this ‘70 Road Runner hardtop with such an six-barrel 440 engine installation. A retired phone company employee, Mike acquired the four-speed model in 1988 in “fair condition.” I redid the powertrain and suspension system which both needed attention.”

As he was restoring the Road Runner, Mike came across some interesting clues that provided firm indications of the car’s early history. “The engine had a scatter shield, there was an indication of once having a drag-style line-lock set-up, and the rear wheelwells had been trimmed for large racing slicks.

“I bet that it made many runs down the drag strip during those days.” He indicated, though, that type of activity is not in his plans for the orange beauty. “Oh, I might get on it once-in-awhile, but that’s about it!”

Cenky did, however, make several minor changes for better driving comfort. “I used a wider eight-inch rear wheel. Then too, I changed the factory 4.10 ratio rear end to a 3.54 unit which makes the car much more streetable.” For a cleaner look, the small Road Runner decals-normally on the front quarters-and small chrome RR emblems on the rear quarters.

The car is coated in a flashy Tor Red color, a color which is carried to the exposed wheels which carry the small wheel covers, and in MOPAR style, also into the engine compartment. It’s highlighted with that broad black hood stripe which contains the hood scoop and is outlined by two narrow stripes. There is definitely a racecar look about this stunning machine.

The car also carries the Super Track Pack which included front disc brakes, heavy duty cooling package, special cooling fan, and the Dana rear end. The interior is done in black vinyl and sports bucket seats.

Cenky explained that even though the car is 36 years old, most people at car shows know exactly what it is. “I am always hearing from them that they owned one or knew somebody that did,” he explained. Mike’s long been a Chrysler fan, and it comes naturally. “My dad worked for the company for many years and all we ever had were Chrysler cars.” And over the years,

Mike has owned a number of vintage performance MOPARs, including a ‘67 440 R/T, a ‘70 Dodge Challenger 440 Six-Pack, a ‘72 340 Plymouth Duster, and a ‘70 Chrysler 300.

There is no mistaking the look of those Chrysler-built ‘60s and early muscle machines, and they are certainly a favorite of mine.”

And ours too!

Copyright © 2005-2006 Muscle car News Magazine Privacy Policy

After the 1900’s, the market for car wheels and rims has suddenly expanded. Today, most people want to modify their vehicle with the latest set of wheels. Wheels which are modified from the standard vehicle manufacturer wheels are called custom wheels. The overall look of the vehicle is changed as soon as you install a set of the trendiest custom wheels or rims. However, it is important that you choose the most appropriate wheels or rims for your vehicle.

Types of Custom Wheels and Rims

There are several kinds of wheels and rims available in the market. But you will have to make a choice keeping your vehicle in mind. You can get everything from spoke alloy wheels to the more superior chrome spinning wheels, which are the latest trend.

Appearance: In the case where you are just concerned about the appearance, then choose wheels and rims that suit your vehicle and add style to it. However if speed is your passion, then go for alloy wheels which are much lighter than chrome wheels. Alloy wheels will provide your vehicle with the desired performance. Alloys are best suited for city traffic, as they help to avoid overheating of the brake system.

To give sporty looks to your vehicle, install larger wheels and rims. You must choose the wheels that are matched with the bolt pattern of your vehicle. You should ask the salesperson to help you choose the right ones. This is essential because incorrectly installed custom wheels will create problems with the handling of your vehicle.

Pricing: With lower priced wheels, you will have to compromise on quality. If you want to purchase the most stylish and trendy custom wheels in a good quality for your vehicle, then it will cost you slightly more. Wheels and rims at online stores are slightly cheaper than at brick and mortar stores. However, the advantage of buying from a physical store is that you can see and check your wheels and rims before purchasing.

The most common way car enthusiasts modify their vehicles is to install a set of custom wheels. Automobile speed lovers, who are well aware of the performance benefits, opt for lighter, stronger or larger wheels. On the other hand, those who give preference to the looks of their vehicle opt for larger wheels, usually with a distinctive appearance.

There is no denying the fact that custom wheels and rims provide a unique and trendy look to your vehicle. However, it is also very important that the performance of your vehicle is not affected due to selecting the wrong set of wheels.

A car with an excellent paint job is one of life’s true joys. It’s like being the kid with the best bike in the neighbourhood or the biggest piece of birthday cake. Whether you drive a ‘47 Eldorado, a ‘66 Beetle or an ‘07 fortwo, a great paint job will take your vehicle from ho-hum to headturner.

Actually creating a great automotive paint job takes skill and finesse. Automotive painting is one of the most arduous and painstaking tasks in crafting an automobile. It can also be one of the most costly. If you are on a budget, there are options for you. Some paint shops can deliver a good paint job for a fair price. Your other option is to take on the task yourself. If the paint job is a success, you’ll have even more to brag about: a hot set of wheels AND a "do it yourself" tale to tell. Achieving a great paint job is a step-by-step process. You simply can’t rush automotive painting. Follow the basic steps of preparation, primer application, blocking, final paint coat and detail application. This can seem like a daunting task for any beginner, but the entire job can be completed in just a few days.

Prepare Before you begin, check with local bylaws and regulations regarding the use of spray paint in homes and enclosed areas. The last thing you need is a legal holdup delaying your painting job.

Cleaning the car is your next crucial step. The car must be spotlessly clean and free of dirt. Use detergents to clean the car top to bottom, and then follow up with grease removers. After the car has been cleaned, it’s time to begin sanding. An air sander (preferably a dual-action sander) should be used to remove the old paint from the car. This kind of sander will not cause body damage because it removes paint without digging like other sanders and grinders. Every trace of paint must be removed to create a perfect palette for your new paint job. Automotive detailing tape or even duct tape can be used to cover and protect other parts of the car, including plastic moldings and windows. In addition to removing the old paint, all traces of rust have to be sanded off. Rust will spread if ignored or untreated, and the last thing you want is body rot happening beneath your spiffy new paint. You can repair minor body flaws on the car’s surface using fillers. Shape the compound with care using a sanding board, then follow up with a glazing compound. This step will help to ensure a smooth-as-glass finish on your ride.

Mask After the whole car has been initially cleaned, then sanded, a final cleaning takes place and the vehicle is ready to be masked. In this step, every part of the car that shouldn’t be touched by paint is covered and protected. Remember, you will be using high-grade automotive paint that doesn’t wash off with water. Cover your windows, every light and reflector, all window rubbers, all chrome, tires, wheels, door handles, wipers.. take a good look and what needs to be masked. If you don’t want even the tiniest bit of over spray on it, cover it up! The tools and materials needed for masking are available at automotive supply warehouses and hardware stores.

Prime Priming is an essential step to providing a good foundation for your new paint. A flawless prime coat will help you to achieve a perfect paint job. Valspar epoxy is a good primer choice, combining dependable filling capabilities with minimal shrinking. After the primer has been applied, a second coat in a contrasting colour should be applied on top of the first layer. This will serve as a sanding guide. The primer should be sanded to a smooth finish, but don’t sand too vigorously or you could actually damage the body of the car. When the priming is complete, a sealer is applied and a final sanding takes place.

Finishing off In finishing off the automotive painting, it is essential to achieve uniform colour. The spray gun should be held ten to twelve inches away from the body to avoid streaks and runs. This is necessary when applying the basecoat, final coat and clear coat.

Regardless of the type of car you drive, a new paint job can turn it into a real showstopper. Automotive painting can be a time consuming task, but you can do it if you take it step by step. The creative energy will be good for your soul, and the compliments you receive will be great for your confidence.

The Ford Motor Company is yet again behind one of the superb vehicles – the Ford Crown Victoria. This vehicle is a full-size car that had its history of production dating back to the 1950s, and relived again in the 1970s. It had quite a mediocre sale in the general public’s market, however, it gained much popularity among the ranks of those in uniform.

This is a full-sized sedan, and is more often known as “Crown Vic”. It is more known to be a top-of-the-line sedan among the Ford’s creations. Its predecessor was the Ford LTD. And just like the Ford LTD, the Ford Crown Victoria is also usually used as a taxi cab, fleet vehicle, and police car.

The very first of the Crown Victorias had its humble makings starting in the year 1955. It made its way down the streets as a two-door six-seater hardtop coupe. It differed from the regular Victoria model through its having a stainless steel band that ‘crowned’ the roofline, passing right over the car, as an extension of the B-pillar line.

People talking about a traditional American are more often than not talking about vehicles like the Ford Crown Victoria, or its twin the Mercury Grand Marquis. The Ford Crown Victoria is a large car with a V8 engine under the long hood and a body separate from its steel frame. Furthermore, it has wide bench seats, soft suspension, a relatively large trunk, and poor fuel economy. The police have liked the Ford Crown Victoria because the engine makes it fairly quick, along with its rear-wheel drive that provides predictable handling, the interior can handle and take in the officer and all the police gear, plus the simple mechanicals are durable. Overall, the vehicle is not expensive.

This vehicle has been made available in three trim levels which comprises of the Standard, the LX, and the LX Sport. The Standard is plain, which is what most fleets like. The mid-line LX has alloy wheels, making it exude the look of more like a civilian machine. The LX Sport has slightly larger alloy wheels. Ordering it in dark red, gray, black, or silver birch means that it comes with a color-matched monochrome trim. The black LX Sport looks a lot like an unmarked police car.

As for the Ford Crown Victoria’s interior, it is currently one of the few remaining cars that are sold in the U.S. that still offer a bench front seat. The seats are soft, however for longer drives, it could get uncomfortable for passengers since it lacks support. The controls found inside this vehicle are fairly simple and straightforward.

Ford Crown Victoria owners can shop for discount car parts and accessories from carpartsmax.com auto parts catalog. In stock are thousands of Ford Crown Victoria parts for all enthusiasts. From engine and radiator parts to lights and hoods and wheels, customers can find everything to repair and maintain their Ford Crown Victoria.

Although the Ford Crown Victoria has squishy seats, a mushy handling, and modest V8 engines, these are overpowered by the vehicle’s huge trunk. Also, one plus for this is that because it is often mistaken for a cop car, the Ford Crown Victoria receives respect when on the road. And, this vehicle is certainly a full-size, rear-drive Americana. [PRWEB]

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