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Weight is one of the most important issues to consider when building a fast car for road or track. Putting a car on a serious diet is pretty much free horsepower, as any attempt to lighten a car improves the power to weight ratio, this seriously improves acceleration.
The gains on a lightening a car are huge and not just limited to gains in acceleration either. Once you have lightened a fast car you will find the car performs better in the corners and under braking, parts such as brakes and tires will last longer on the car also.
The potential gains are huge but it must be done correctly, you would not want to lighten a rear wheel drive car too much on the rear or you may find traction a problem particularly with a high power output.
The truth is your fast car could be made a great deal faster cheaply and easily just by shaving a few pounds off the body.
How do we remove weight from the fast car?
This bit is as easy as you want it to be, but as with most forms of car modification it depends on how far you want to go. I know a guy who races a BMW and he decided to go all out on weight saving, he even scraped every bit of under-seal from the floors of the car, extreme perhaps but he managed to remove nearly 2 stone of under-seal, not a bad effort.
The obvious place to start saving weight on your fast car is by removing the interior, and anything else that you do not need, the front seats can be replaced with light weight racing items, the unused wiring removed, carpets and sound deadening, pretty much all of the unnecessary parts, my car has just a driver seat and a cage with much of the unnecessary wiring removed. This makes for a car with very impressive performance.
Many other components can be replaced with lighter parts, gear box casings, axle covers etc. It is worth noting that a stainless steel exhaust is lighter than the same in mild steel, so this constitutes a worthwhile investment.
It is also important to reduce the unsprung weight on the car also, by this I mean wheels, brakes and anything else before the suspension mounts, this provides a very good increase in the handling of the car.
Gavin Drake is a club racing driver in the U.K and also runs the website http://www.fastcarsinfo.com where you can find the latest automotive news, chat with other petrol heads and submit pictures of your cars, not to mention read more articles like this one.
If you don’t have enough cash on hand to purchase the car straight out, you will need to consider your financing options. If you are a smart shopper you should figure out how you are going to finance the used car before you begin shopping. There are three main components that will come into play when you purchase a car. The first is the monthly payment, the second is the down payment and the third is the price of the car.
The monthly payment is going to be how much you can afford to pay each month. This will help the lender determine the life of the loan and when the payments will be due. Many lenders will require that you use the car to secure the loan. The car can be used as collateral and in the event that you default on the loan the lender will repossess the car to satisfy your debt. Monthly payments can also be lowered if you are able to make a down payment.
The down payment is how much cash you can afford to put down before financing the car. This will help to reduce your monthly payments as well. The better a down payment you are able to supply to the bank, the less amount of money you will have to finance through the lender.
The purchase price will be determined to the answer to the two previous questions. These numbers are important to have handy when you are negotiating over the price of a car. If you have these two figures in hand while discussing the price of the car, you will be able to remind yourself of what you can really afford to spend.
You have two options in financing a car. One is to finance the vehicle though your personal bank or credit union. This route is highly recommended, as you will be able to work with lenders that you are already familiar with. You will also be able to be eased in your mind, as your money is going to be sent to a reliable institution. Lower interest rates can also be found at reliable lenders. Using a bank or credit union also makes it easier to stick to your budgeted amount and allows you to find competitive interest rates.
Your other option is to finance through the dealer. This is an option for those individuals who find their credit rating less than good. Many dealers work with people with poor credit and will prearrange financing through an independent source.
When you are car shopping you will want to be sure that you leave yourself enough time to arrange the loan before purchasing the car. You want to be prepared to hand over the money in the event that you do find the used car of your dreams that you have been shopping for. You also do not want to be dependent on borrowing money from a dealer, as they often do not have the best financing and interest rates available, especially on their used cars.
For more Car buying tips visit Atlanta Used Cars at http://www.UsedCarsAtlanta.us and Dallas Used Cars at http://www.UsedCarsDallas.us.
Kevin Lloyd writes Car buying tips about Atlanta Used Cars at http://www.UsedCarsAtlanta.us and Dallas Used Cars at http://www.UsedCarsDallas.us.
We live in an age of information and technology that has made everything around us smarter. Electronic and digital components have made life easier in our homes, offices, and automobiles.
Some of life’s bells and whistles, like nose hair trimmers, are no more than budget-grabbing gizmos. However there are many intelligent tools that can bring convenience and safety to our daily tasks.
In the vast world of "smart" technology, the automotive electronics market is king. Indispensable features such as anti-lock braking systems and electronic stability control are perfect examples of smart and safe automotive electronics.
Recent developments by industry experts have created a huge increase in the number of electronic devices installed at automotive plants. Just to give you an idea of how quickly cars have evolved electronically, the Apollo 11 space craft traveled to the moon and back using a mere 150 kilobytes of onboard memory. It’s remarkable to think that the typical CD player uses a whopping 500 kilobytes just to keep our favorite songs from skipping.
Listening to uninterrupted music is a mere iota of how electronics have impacted a car’s performance in order to benefit drivers.
Telematics is the term used for the technology that involves automobile communication systems. The term was originally used to describe the blending of telecommunications and informatics or information technology. This industry has been gaining more and more attention from car manufacturers over the past years. In the mid-1990s, industry insiders predicted that telematics would become "the" go-to technology; increasing overall sales and more importantly, transforming the automotive industry into a major player in mobile technology. In reality, these forecasts panned out to be less than what was predicted. From an initial industry projection of over $40 billion dollars, the figure has been whittled down to half as more conservative measures were considered.
Nevertheless, that is by no means an indication that the development of this telematics technology has been or will be abandoned. In fact, on average automobile manufacturers spend $2000 on electronic systems for every vehicle that comes off the line — in incredible increase from the $110-per-car budget of the early 1970s. This huge increase in spending is reflected in everything from engine performance to entertainment systems, security features to safety devices. Every component of the vehicle works together to provide automobiles that perform better, are more comfortable, and ultimately safer to drive.
Some of the most common smart and safe automotive electronics are as follows:
Controller Area Network More than one computer runs your car. There is actually a network of computers called the Controller Area Network (CAN). Like a LAN (Local Area Network) that’s commonly used in home and business computers, the CAN links computers together. In your vehicle, the CAN basically links the many separate computer systems together and allows them communicate with each other. These interconnected systems involve everything from critical systems like engine management, cruise control and anti-lock brakes and cruise control, to less-demanding applications like automatic window and seat controls.
Fuel Efficiency Skyrocketing fuel prices have forced automotive manufacturers to realize the need for fuel-efficient vehicles, and to meet that demand. Smart automotive electronics are used to create the more efficient burning of fuel, such as the electronic fuel injection system (EFI).
The technology used in hybrid vehicles takes this one step further, with electronic devices that allow the driver to automatically switch between gas and electric engines.
Safety Devices There are generally two categories of devices designed to protect the safety of the driver and passengers: active and passive safety devices.
* Active safety devices: These are systems that constantly work to ensure the safety of drivers and passengers. Examples of active safety devices are dynamic steering response (DSR), traction control (TCS), and acceleration slip regulation (ASR).
While the average driver may not notice these systems at work, they are constantly sensing road and driving conditions and adjusting the car’s performance accordingly to create a safer ride. Electronic Stability Control has been shown by researchers to have a large safety benefit in reducing single vehicle skids.
* Passive safety devices: While these features may be more visible and seem simpler, they are also controlled by smart and safe automotive electronics. Thanks to developments in electronics and technology, airbag deployment has seen a tremendous amount of improvement over the years. Early airbags would deploy too early or too late, offering little or no benefit to the driver and passengers. Now, more advanced systems have created devices in your car that are actually programmed to the conditions that can lead to a high collision impact. Airbag and seating adjustment systems are deployed to minimize impact and decrease the degree of injury to the people inside the vehicle.
Think of the advancements over just a decade, and you’ll agree that the car of today certainly is a far cry from its predecessors. Modern automobiles offer more than simply a means of getting from point A to point B. Smart and safe automotive electronics make "getting there" as comfortable and as secure as possible.
Dorothy Williams enjoys writing for several popular web sites, including http://new-recreation.com and http://nulaf.com
Flooded Vehicle - is considered, a vehicle that was damaged by water level raised to seating level. Most flood damaged cars, trucks and SUVs are sent to a salvage yard, but some are cleaned up and put into the auto market where they’ll be bought by unsuspecting buyers who think they’re getting a great deal.
Flooded water leaves long lasting damage. Electrical and mechanical components will probably fail early. Mold and mildew can also create a serious problem. Any remaining warranty is voided. While buying a used car be on the lookout for these cars even if you don’t live in a flooded area, because dishonest people move them around. Here are some tips and points to detect flooded vehicles.
I) Get a Vehicle History Report Enter the vehicle’s VIN number to get a history report. Carfax does a great job of researching a vehicle’s background, but a clean slate is not a 100% guarantee that the car or truck hasn‘t suffered water damage. You can also contact CarSnaps and ask them for advice or request a vehicle background report.
II) Look for Moisture. Look for moisture within the lights. Check the glove compartment, console and trunk and inspect them for any sign of dampness moisture or the dirt that looks like a leftover from a flood. Look under the hood for accumulated dirt or signs of rust. Check under the seats for signs of moisture.
III) Take a deep Sniff This can really help in detecting flooded vehicles. Do you smell a sour, mildewy-like odor? Soaked seats, carpeting and other components are difficult to dry in a hurry, so there’s plenty of time for mold and mildew to grow, especially if the flood occurred in a hot and humid location.
IV) Look for Mismatched Interior Components Does the carpeting look brand new or mismatched or too new for the vehicle? Do seat covers seem out of place with the carpeting? Components that don’t match-up might have been changed in a hurry after the vehicle was pulled from flood waters.
V) Request free advice from CarSnaps Contact CarSnaps.com and request free advice from their qualified technicians who are there to help and it is free so there is nothing to lose.
VI) Let Your Technician Examine the Vehicle Take the vehicle to a technician if possible and ask for a thorough examination. Experienced auto technicians see evidence of flood damage more often than most individuals do, so they know exactly what to look for.
VII) Turn it On and Go for a Drive Turn the car on and check every electrical system possible, including the exterior and interior lights, the gauges, the clock and the audio system and the dash lights that display air bag and seat belt information. Go for a drive and test electrical components again to make sure they work correctly. 90% of the time you will be able to suspect an electrical problem with flooded vehicle unless it is repaired or electrical parts are not damaged which is very rare though.
Flooded vehicles should be avoided as much as possible even if seller tell you about the manufacturer warranty because warranty voids when a car goes through a flood. If you suspect a flooded vehicle walk away from it. Flooded vehicles are not worth the hassle they provide.
Jareeullah is a 19 year old certified automotive enthusiast. This resident of Houston has extensive expertise on auto parts and automotives in general. Visit http://www.carsnaps.com or chat with him at http://www.carsnaps.com/forum
Regardless of your car audio listening habits: broadcast radio, satellite radio, or CDs, finding the desirable speaker combination for your automobile will make your audio experience a positive one. Finding the right system may take some effort and research, but it will be worth it. Improved components which add greater functionality of car audio system means you should know about certain components. These components are speakers, sub woofers, tweeters, amplifiers, ipod adapters and more.
Speakers
Speaker approaches are very important because they are the units that actually reproduce the sound from electrical energy. The right speakers for your auto audio system are extremely critical, given that they are reproducing the actual sound from the stereo itself. When buying speakers, only consider the higher end. Here is what you need to know, and what to look for:
First, let’s start with the types of speakers that you’ll encounter in the car audio world.
A woofer is a large speaker which will reproduce the lower frequencies. The mid speaker is, as its name implies, a medium sized unit which reproduces the middle frequencies. And the tweeter is small and will reproduce the higher sounds.
A sub woofer will give you another dimension in bass: they reproduce the lowest spectrum of the sound. And there is a also a supertweeter which will give you the highest sound in the spectrum.
When you buy speakers, you may be actually buying a "package" of speakers, encompassing some or all of the above. Or, you could purchase them separately.
There are other variations of these speakers available as well. If the car sees a lot of use as well as wear and tear, then buying higher quality components is a great idea.
There are many factors that need to be considered in placing the speakers in the correct position. Basically, they split music signals into separate frequency ranges and sends them to speakers that are designed to best reproduce each frequency range, you can vary the crossover points and adjust the level of separate speakers to achieve the best overall sound in your vehicle.
Power
Amplifiers are devices that take a teeny tiny audio signal from a pre-amp, some power from your battery, and pass it on as a big audio signal to drive speakers. To get the cleanest sound, it is absolutely essential to have as much power as you can afford. It delivers power with clarity.
Factory fitted radios (standard fit radios) in the past had relatively low power outputs of about 3 to 5 watts. Compare this to after market radios where the basic models start at a power output of 45 Watts x 4.
By providing a maximum power of 45 watts, they belong to the class of highly efficient amplifiers that are up to 90% power efficient. It makes the most efficient use of power when compared to other amplifier classes.
Components
A car audio system is a combination of components such as head units, amplifiers, speakers, and auxiliary input devices. A word of advice: if you are supposed to be paying for new car audio approach from an after market dealer, make sure you see the box, the price and installation materials before the company installs the your car audio approach. This way you are assured of getting what you paid for.
If the quality of the audio in your car is important to you, be sure to consider these ideas. Many of us spend a great deal of time in our cars. It is worth the effort to make sure you get what you want.
Yvonne Volante, author, loves to listen to music of all kinds. She understands the importance of a good audio system. See more audio articles over at http://www.foraudio.com
[Introduction]
Nitrous Oxide injection is a popular performance modification that offers maximum returns on spending. The direct outcome of using Nitrous Oxide injection is additional power to your vehicle. This results into better garnering of energy from combustion of fuel, revved up engine and eventual boost in over all performance of the vehicle.
Nitrous oxide is more popular than other performance modifications as besides better performance per unit of money spent, Nitrous installations are easier to accomplish. These installations can be used as and when the need arises. The Nitrous oxide injections are available to meet any magnitude of power need from 25 HP to over 500 extra HP. This performance option caters to the computer controlled fuel injected engines. The Nitrous systems are portable enough to be easily removed or transferred to another vehicle. In comparison to other performance options, Nitrous Oxide systems are feasible, as they cost least and install without much difficulty. To install NOS, all you need are some common hand tools and barely three to four hours time. There is no other performance option that can buy you more performance for lesser money than Nitrous.
Nitrous oxide is colorless, non-flammable and a slightly sweet smelling gas. Also known as laughing gas because of its euphoric effects, Nitrous is also known as NOS after the famous trademark catering Nitrous Oxide injection systems.
[How Does It Work?]
Nitrous oxides functions along identical principle as followed by sodium chlorate upon heating. It constitutes of two parts of Nitrogen and one part of Oxygen (N2O). When Nitrous Oxide is heated to a temperature of about 570 degrees F (~300 degree C), it splits into oxygen and nitrogen. So, injection of Nitrous oxide into the engine results into more oxygen available during combustion. As there is more oxygen available during combustion, the engine can also intake more fuel, and consequently generate more power. Thus, Nitrous oxide is one of the simplest manners to give a substantial horsepower boost to any gasoline engine.
Secondly, when pressurized Nitrous oxide is injected into the intake manifold, it boils and vaporizes. As a result, Nitrous oxide provides significant cooling effect on the intake air. With the cooling effect, the temperature of the intake air reduces by 60-75 degrees F. This in turn, increases air density and subsequent higher concentration of oxygen inside the cylinder. Thus additional power is generated. As per standard rule, every 10 degrees F reduction in intake charge temperature causes 1% increase in power. For example, a 350 HP engine with an intake temperature drop of 70 degrees F shall gain around 25HP on the cooling affect alone.
Thirdly, the nitrogen released during the process of heating also supports the performance aspect. As Nitrogen dampens down the increased cylinder pressure, it controls the combustion process eventually.
Nitrous oxide is colossal just like any other gas. Even its liquid form does not excuse the bulky nature of the gas. The engine requires a huge quantity of Nitrous Oxide to keep the 5-liter engine running at 4,000 rotations per minute (RPM). The speed of 4,000-RPM rate is secured by combustion of 10,000 liters of air every minute. In sharp contrast, the engine consumes only 0.2 liters of gasoline. In nutshell, the engine shall require magnanimous quantity of Nitrous oxide to run your vehicle continuously. Therefore, a car normally carries limited amount of nitrous oxide, which is used very selectively by the driver, by pushing a button.
Nitrous system offers improvement of 1 to 3 full seconds and 10 to 15 MPH in the quarter mile. Other factors viz. engine size, tires, jetting, gearing etc. determine the final results. It is best used with a wide-open throttle, unless a progressive controller is used. It can be safely applied above 2,500 rotations per minute (RPM) under full throttle conditions.
Forged aluminum pistons are one of the best modifications to complement NOS. Other important modifications may be a forged crankshaft, a high quality race type connecting rod, a high output fuel pump dedicated to feeding the additional fuel demands of Nitrous system and a racing fuel with high specific gravity and an octane rating of 110 or more.
For effective performance through Nitrous Oxide, it is important to choose the correct Horse Power for a given application. To elaborate, as the energy will be released in the cylinder, the load on various components to perform will also increase proportionately. If the energy released is greater than the ability to handle the energy, it will amount to wear and tear of the machinery. While 4 cyl. engines allow an extra 40-60 HP, 6 cyl. engines allow 75-100 extra HP only. On identical lines, while small blocks V8’s (302/350/400cid) typically allow up to 140 extra HP, big blocks V8’s (427/454) accept from 125–200 extra HP.
As Nitrous looses the optimal flow rate at very cold temperatures, NOS kit has a nitrous pressure gauge that allows you to monitor the pressure to approximately 800-900 psi. In colder climates, it is always advisable to purchase a bottle heater kit, part # 14161 to keep the ambient temperature to 70-90 degrees F.
Further, the condition of the engine is important to keep in mind while choosing NOS kit for your vehicle. A worn out and poorly tuned up vehicle will not be able to sustain NOS pressure and will be instead harmed by abnormal wear.
Though the button triggering on Nitrous oxide may be held pressed until the bottle containing it is rendered empty, it is recommended that Nitrous Oxide may be used for 15 continuous seconds or lesser. The Nitrous bottle can be easily refilled from any NOS certified distributor. The NOS bottle must not be overfilled as overfilling and/ or too much heat can result into excessive bottle pressures, following a blown out safety seal and eventual release of all the contents out of the bottle.
[Summary]
To wrap up, Nitrous Oxide magnifies the output of any engine – be it stock engine or modified engine, to lend more power and better performance. However, it is important to keep the condition and horsepower of the engine in mind before introducing particular NOS to it to secure positive results only.
How Does NOS Work? is a guide provided by http://2FastLane.com - Your source for Street Racing : http://www.2fastlane.com
Why lift your Jeep? More height means more clearance for dealing with obstacles while offroading. It allows you to run larger tires, which also helps with conquering offroad challenges. Still another reason is that many folks just feel that a lifted Jeep with larger tires looks better, and I certainly agree with them. The added height and larger tires just give a Jeep a better more pronounced profile
No matter the reason for lifting your Jeep, there are a number of ways to go about it. Before you pick which one is right for you, you’ll need to make some decisions along the way. First, you’ll need to decide on what you’re looking to accomplish with the lift. Is it simply for show, or is it for go? Serious rock crawling anyone? Second, determine just how high you want to go. Looking for a little height for some mild wheeling or are you really serious about this height thing? Third, you’ll need to select the type of lift to use. Finally, install the lift or have it installed.
The basic methods for lifting a Jeep are Suspension Lift Kits, Body Lifts Kits, Shackle Lifts, Spring-Over-Axle Conversions, and Coil Spring Spacers. Jeep shackle lifts and coil spring spacers typically result in a maximum increase of 2 inches. Coil spring spacers are just what they say: spacers that are inserted under the base of the coil spring, resulting in lifting the springs higher. Shackle lifts are comprised of leaf spring shackles that are longer and lift the frame higher from the leafs. Both of these kits are rather inexpensive methods, but if you’re looking for more than a couple of inches, you’ll need to look elsewhere.
Spring-Over-Axle conversion kits allow you to change the location of the leaf spring from beneath the axle to sit on top of it. They’ll usually result in a lift of 4 inches or more. This can be increased by the size of springs you use with the over axle kit. Use of these can cause cantering, and steering linkage and driveline issues which must be addressed. It can become a little complicated for the less mechanically inclined among us (I’m one of them!). It will definitely change the handling of the rig. While the spring-over-axle conversion kits are rather inexpensive when compared to suspensions lifts, there is a good bit of time and money spent on fixing the issues it creates, which needs to be taken into consideration when assessing the costs of your various options.
With Body Lift Kits you basically unbolt the body from the frame, and place manufactured blocks between the Jeep’s body and the rolling chassis. This raises the body of your Jeep but doesn’t directly increase the clearance of your undercarriage. The body lift does allow you to run larger tires, which will increase your Jeep’s clearance.
Suspension lift kits will directly increase the clearance of a Jeep. They call for installing taller suspension components (higher lift springs and longer recoil shocks). These systems deliver lift, better articulation, and better offroad handling. Unfortunately, they are the most expensive of the lift options, but they deliver the best handling performance.
When it comes down to choosing a lift, you’ll need to determine why you’re lifting the vehicle, and how much you’re willing to pay for it. If you’re only looking to add a couple of inches and you want the lift just for looks, a body kit, coil-spring-spacers or lift shackles may be just what the doctor ordered. If you’re looking to build a Jeep that is more offroad capable then you should look at suspension lift systems.
Many serious offroaders combine the suspension lift with a body lift for additional height. Installation of any of these lifting methods will usually change the handling of a vehicle. They all raise the center of gravity and will, therefore, affect side-to-side handling and cornering. This can be addressed by adding wider tires along with the lift. Depending on the type and size of kit you install and the model of your Jeep, you may need to install a dropped Pitman arm, longer control arms, longer brake hoses, a transfer case drop, and/or a CV drive shaft and slip yoke eliminator kit (due to a change of the angle of the drive train on TJs and some Cherokees). It’s important to not cut corners when lifting your Jeep. Why spend the money on a lift just to compromise the handling performance and face potentially serious wear and tear issues with key components? Do it right the first time and it will serve you in the long run.
Whatever system you select, the one thing for sure is that the added height will help give your Jeep that rugged tough look most of us seem to prefer.
In his spare time, Al likes to learn more about one of the true American Automotive Legends, The Jeep. When he is working, Al is a marketing manager for one of the leading on-line retailers of Jeep aftermarket parts and accessories, Xtreme Terrain Concepts. They can be found at http://www.xtremeterrain.com
If you’re a driver who is aging, it doesn’t mean you are a driver who is facing a lack of automotive insurance. Quite the contrary, if you are a driver who is aging, you could very well be facing discounts in automotive insurance.
Depending on the automotive insurance company through which you are insured, you may be eligible for various discounts. For example, many insurance companies that specialize in more than one kind of insurance will offer discounts to policyholders who purchase more than one insurance policy from them. Many people choose to purchase both their automotive insurance policies and their homeowner’s insurance policies through the same insurance company, which results in a discount in premiums.
Some insurance companies also offer discounts to aging drivers who have good driving records, and for various reasons. Drivers certain ages, usually 50 years of age and older, who have been driving for many years, are viewed as being less of a risk than new drivers – especially if they have good driving records. Aging drivers are seen as more responsible. Plus, aging drivers are less likely to go “joy riding” like younger drivers are, which puts them at less risk for traffic accidents and violations.
Aging drivers who are looking for discounts should follow the same tips as any other driver. Drive a safe car, park it in a safe location, and make sure it has anti-theft safety components. Keep traffic violations and accidents to a minimum, if not nonexistent, and try not to drive a significant number of miles more than necessary a year.
Some automotive insurance companies even offer discounts for aging drivers who participate in driving programs that the insurance companies provide, or participate in with another company. These driving programs are designed to refresh and sharpen driving skills, as well as restore defensive driving tactics.
So, the next time you worry about automotive insurance because you’re an aging driver, stop!
Insurance—it’s everywhere. One can insure just about anything. Are tires an investment one needs to insure? Tire insurance, also called a road hazard policy, road hazard warranty, or tire reimbursement plan, is a rapidly growing industry in the automotive world.
Tire warranty plans pay in full or in part for the replacement or repair of damaged tires and/or rims from “road hazards.” Road hazards are defined as pot holes, debris, nails, wood, and other hazards found in the road. Curbs, sidewalks, and stone walls are not road hazards. This is an important distinction to consider when deciding if tire insurance is right for you (discussed further ahead).
Tire plans last for a specific period of time and tire wear tread-depth. Some plans last 2-3 years. Others can last 5 years or 60,000 miles. Several plans come with fixed amounts of coverage: $500 per year up to 4 years. Many contracts require three years of law school to comprehend. In terms of tread depth, a tire is usually considered worn out (and thus the plan null and void) at 2/32 to 3/32 of an inch.
Another important distinction is in the type of plan.
Tire reimbursement plans are just what they say. You, the plan holder, will be reimbursed after the claims process is finalized—usually 2-8 weeks. There is an out-of-pocket expense. These plans are often sold by new car dealerships. The prices can range from $300 to $600 dollars.
Road hazard policies operate similarly to reimbursement plans. However, some tire insurance providers, in partnership with the repair facility, may have a direct-pay relationship. Thus, there would be no out-of-pocket expense, except for applicable deductibles, and items not covered in part or in full. These plans are primarily sold by tire dealers and repairshops. The prices range from $10 to $30 per tire. They also can be based on a percentage of the cost of the tire: usually 12% to 15%.
Both types of plans have a number of variables, requiring a magnifying glass to read the fine print. Also, many are pro-rated warranties, covering only a percentage of the cost of the tire based on its wear.
Claims and Coverage: Depending on the plan, claims are initiated by the repair shop. The process is fairly smooth, although there can be a significant delay from the provider for authorization. This delay may be an hour or an entire weekend. This means that you’ll have to “ok” the tire replacement, and then hope it’s authorized for the full amount, or drive on your spare.
Some plans offer national coverage either among their service facilities or from other repair centers. Claims procedures will vary. Others only provide local coverage, or coverage at the selling facility.
Limitations: Tire insurance does not mean that everything is covered. Pro-rated warranties are based on the wear and tear of the tire. You may get 75%, 50%, or only 10% coverage depending on the tread-depth. You’ll pay the remainder. While there are plans that offer full coverage, even these have limitations, or they may conflict with a repair shop’s policies.
For example, many plans allow for a maximum of $30 to mount and balance one tire, and a maximum of $15 to repair a tire. However, sport tires often have significantly higher mounting and balancing fees—upwards of $50 per tire—and tire repair prices can exceed $90. There are also discrepancies on the tire and rim prices themselves, which in the end, may have to be supplemented by the service customer.
Although there usually is not an issue with the latter given the competitive market, the service center’s price mark up may be unacceptable to the plan provider. In this case, the service center needs to lower the price or you, the service customer, need to pay the difference—or go somewhere else. This does happen!
Rim Prices and Repairs: Rim replacement is becoming less frequent. With the high cost of aluminum wheels and sport wheel packages, tire insurers have opted to have them repaired. Repair will only be done if the rim does not hold air. What this means is that even if the rim is warped—enough to cause a vibration and even premature tire wear—they won’t replace it. Rather, they will send it out to be straightened and repaired.
Rims are replaced only if the damage is so extensive that the new tire, when mounted on the rim, won’t hold air. However, even in this case, especially if it’s an expensive sport wheel, they may still attempt to repair it.
Repairing rims is a bad option. While some rim repair is acceptable, badly warped or damaged rims will in no way ever be the same.
Alignments: If a car hits a road hazard hard enough, such as a pot hole, it’s wise to have the alignment checked. Road hazard policies and tire reimbursement plans do not cover alignments. The service customer will have to pay for this procedure.
Road Hazard Protection Positives: Some plans include tire rotations, wheel balancing, and nationwide coverage.
Myths:
1) “Can I pop all 4 tires and get a new set of tires?”
You can try. But this type of claim will trigger a number of red flags with the insurer. The policy holder will likely send out adjusters and/or require photographs. You will also have a difficult time explaining how a “road hazard” caused all 4 tire pop.
2) “New tires come with a road hazard warranty.”
New tires do come with a warranty by the tire manufacturer. However, it only covers defects in workmanship. New tire warranties do not cover punctures or damages from external sources. This is why “road hazard” protection is being pushed.
New tires are rarely defective. If there is a problem, it’s usually noticed when balancing the tire. Or, there is a drivability concern such as vibration or noise. If there’s a defect it’s generally caught right away, and the tire swapped out.
3) “It’s so cheap; it’s a no-brainer, right?”
Actually, the experts don’t agree with this statement.
The Economics of Tire Warranties: An article from the Washington Post by Terence O’Hara explains the economics of extended warranties and purchase protection plans in general. It is quite fitting for road hazard warranties. He writes:
“The decision to buy an extended warranty…defies the recommendations of economists, consumer advocates and product quality experts, who all warn that the plans rarely benefit consumers and are nearly always a waste of money.
‘[Extended warranties or purchase protection plans] make no rational sense,’ Harvard economist David Cutler said. ‘The implied probability [of having an issue with the product] has to be substantially greater than the risk that you can’t afford to fix it or replace it. If you’re buying a $400 item, for the overwhelming number of consumers that level of spending is not a risk you need to insure under any circumstances.’”
In short, road hazard warranties are a waste of money. Don’t insure that which you can afford to replace.
Numbers Game and Slim Chances: Like all insurance, tire insurance plans are a numbers game. However, this is a game you have a 98% chance of losing. Insider statistics show that the percentage of claims paid out by providers is as low a 2%.
Curbs: Another interesting note is that a lot of tire damage is caused by curbs. Curb damage is not covered under most road hazard policies. High granite curbs with sharp edges slice through tens of thousands of tires per year.
You Won’t Notice: Many people don’t even notice tire damage. Other than to see if the tires are holding air, who “really” looks at tires? Tires are subject to a whole host of external influences which cause bubbles, slices and gouges.
Despite the potential dangers of damaged tires, the damage very often does not translate into any noticeable drivability issue. The point is that if you don’t notice any tire damage you can’t benefit from the coverage.
Research Shows: Those raving about the benefits of a road hazard policy are the actual folks in the industry who stand to benefit from the sale. They’ll argue that it’s so cheap—only $10 to $20 per tire. Even so, for four tires, that’s $80 based on the “possibility,” the “chance,” of damaging a tire that meets the repair/replacement requirement protocols.
Auto Insurance: If a rim and tire has incurred significant damage, it’s quite likely that other problems have resulted as well. The first is that the vehicle may have been jarred out of alignment. Secondly, hub bearings, front end components: tie rods, spindles, ball joints, and a variety of other components may have sustained damage. In this case, auto insurance, which you are already paying for, will pay for everything—brand new.
Free Road Hazard Warranties: Many tires come with road hazard warranties FREE. In other words, in an effort to secure retailers, many tire distributors provide service centers FREE road hazard insurance. Some shops pass this on to their tire customers, others sell them. Ask if the tire “comes” with a road hazard protection policy. If not, request that one be provided at no additional charge. It’s worth a shot.
Also, some car manufacturers provide road hazard warranties FREE of charge for 12 months or 12,000 miles. If you’re buying a new car or even used, ask that the dealer provide a complimentary road hazard policy (after all the wheeling and dealing is done, of course), and just before you commit.
“What’s the best road hazard policy?” Money in “your” bank account.
Theodore P. Olson (Ted) holds extensive certifications from Mercedes-Benz, Toyota, GM, and ASE. He is the author of eight books and numerous articles on the automotive service industry. Visit RepairTrust Making Sense of http://www.repairtrust.com