If you’re a Motor Trader you’ll know more than anyone just how price sensitive the automotive industry can be. And as Motor Trade Insurance is likely to be one of your companies biggest outgoings paying the right price for your Motor Trader Insurance is going to be vital.

Whilst the UK has benefited from a pretty stable financial environment in recent years with rising house prices, low interest rates and many companies making money there now maybe signs of a change. During 2006 interest rates rose steadily and with 1 rate rise in 2007 already (and with more forecast as the year progresses) there is every chance that there will be less disposable income in the UK economy.

So what will this mean for consumers and Motor Traders?

Well for consumers it could mean they have less money to spend on new cars, second cars or indeed on the servicing and repair of existing vehicles. There is also every chance that as value for money becomes more of an issue they will shop around to secure the best price and service.

And when Motor Traders Insurance policies come due for renewal there is every chance they too will start looking around to secure the best deal on their Motor Trade Insurance. And if indeed money is an issue it is very easy for companies in the motor industry to opt for the cheapest is best option. After all, isn’t one type of Business Insurance pretty much the same as all the others?

Well for Motor Traders in the UK I would urge you to proceed with caution as whilst low cost motor trade insurance is available from many different insurance providers you don’t want to leave yourself in a position without the right level of cover or the right insurance excess (or deductable).

For many motor traders the best option to take when buying motor trade insurance for the first time or when their current motor trader insurance comes due for renewal would be to consult the services of an insurance broker. An insurance broker who specializes in motor trade insurance can search the market to find you the right cover at the right price so you not only save time – but you also save money.

In the event of you needing to make a claim they can also help you get the claim settled quicker and more favourably. A good insurance broker should give you advice and make sure you only pay for the insurance cover you need and want.

Whether to buy a new car or buy a used car is often times the first decision that needs to be arrived at before you can actively begin perusing purchasing your next vehicle.

Let’s take a look at some tips, pros, and cons when it comes to making this decision.

First of all, having been in the automotive business for many years, I almost always lean toward finding a good used car that fits what I am looking for. For me, I believe that used cars offer the best value for your dollar. In most cases, you’ll find used car departments are much more used to and willing to negotiate the price that they have posted on the car. From a negotiating standpoint, most used cars won’t have all of those superfluous dealer ‘add-ons’ stuck on the window either that will just never do.

In the automotive market, used cars will most certainly come with a lower initial price tag than a comparably equipped new car. And not only will the price be lower, you may also find that so is your cost to insure the used car as well as the tags, and taxes. Depreciation being what it is; means that with a car a couple of years old, the biggest depreciation hit has already occurred. And from a tangible perspective, you may have a better chance of getting those upgrades you’d like to have on the used car that you couldn’t otherwise afford going with the new.

Yet, with all of this, buying a used car isn’t for everyone. Finding a used vehicle that fits one’s entire car buying criteria can be a tough exercise in balancing what you want with the value versus risk inherent when it comes to used cars.

Not so many years ago, reliability was a major concern when purchasing a used car… and rightfully so. Today however, reliability problems are a fraction of what they used to be. Today’s vehicles, when properly maintained will easily go for 100,000 miles and it’s not uncommon for vehicles to be motoring along as they approach 200,000 miles or more. And with all of the information now available online, the risk factor is again reduced even a bit more.

Even though more reliable today, buying a used car for people means buying a car that is probably out of its original bumper to bumper warranty. This alone, is enough to repel many potential car buyers back to the new car side of the dealership.

As you know, if you are looking at buying a used car, you are probably looking at a car that is outside the factory warranty or at least would have very little remaining. With no warranty you’ll be on the hook to pay for any needed repairs out of your own pocket. However, the biggest expense for most all cars today are the things that aren’t covered by any manufacturer’s warranty anyway; items such as brakes, tires, alignment, batteries, etc.

Of course nobody can guarantee that you won’t encounter a lemon. No matter what the make and model, no manufacturer can produce a vehicle that can withstand years of neglect and/or abuse. Always, always, always give the used car a thorough inspection both by yourself and a qualified mechanic; doing this will catch most problems that may be looming on the horizon.

When it comes to financing the purchase of a used car, you find that the going interest rates will typically be higher than new car rates. This is definitely a piece of the puzzle you’ll want to check out. There is no rule of thumb as to what the difference in the interest rate will be between the two because there are just too many determining variables involved such as; the economy, rebates and incentives involved on the new car side, your credit, length of financing, and even the type of used car you’re looking at. Be sure to crunch the numbers for both sides.

With used cars, insurance can save you some money as well because you’ll typically pay less for your insurance on a like model from a few years past. The reason is simple; less cost of replacement for the insurance company and used cars are generally not high on the stolen lists.

And finally, (the latest) safety features could be a concern if you’re looking at used car (particularly if you’re going back a few model years).

All in all, if the touch, feel, and smell of a new car, isn’t a top priority for you, I think you’ll find that a well thought out used car purchase you can get more car and features and still be within your budget.

By Mike Cain

The MGF, designed and produced by Rover, is a small mid-engined sports car, with a soft top roof and plenty of boot space. Despite this, it is not renowned for its practicality, but if that is what you are looking for then you are missing the point of the MGF - it is intended to be fun to drive and something of a head turner. The driving position is quite low to the ground, which means when the top is down you get a unique driving experience, it is ideal for the summer months. It grips the road well and has good balance when driving, which is just as well with a 0-60 time of just 8.5 seconds. It responds immediately to the slightest touch on either the accelerator or the break, roaring into life with a great burst of energy, yet slowing quickly without much effort.

However, the slightly cramped cabin (especially when the roof is up) and hard body styling makes for an uncomfortable time when taking in long journeys or negotiating bumpy roads and sharp corners. The plastic rear windscreen means is liable to cloud up, and can become creased and folded where the roof has been put up/down many times. Frequent problems have also been reported with head gaskets on the older models, and this is a common cause of breakdowns.

Second hand values have stayed quite strong, due to Rover restricting the supply, and cars can be picked up from around £3,500 for a 1995 model and upwards, and it proves relatively cheap to run. Fuel consumption is good, at around 38.4 mpg, and with an insurance group of 9/10 cover is cheap as well.

Production is due to begin once more in 2008, courtesy of Nanjing Automobile, at the old Longbridge plant in West Midlands, as well as in their yet to be completed Chinese factory. The MGF is expected to go back on sale in 2009.

All in all the MGF is a fun sports car, with great style and personality, suitably cosy and enjoyable during the winter, and a fast, thrilling ride in the summer sun. —————————————————————-

Is it possible to own a new car, even if you don’t have $20,000 to spend? Absolutely. Auto loans make car ownership an affordable reality, and virtually anyone can arrange for financing. If you have sufficient income and a good credit rating, you will be able to choose from a selection of auto loans.

Step 1 Choose your wheels before arranging your loan. The bank or finance company will want to know what you’re buying, and how much you’ll need to borrow. Shop around by checking automotive websites and visiting local car dealers. Once you know exactly what you want to buy, you can negotiate a price with the seller. With price in hand, you’ll find it easier and faster to secure your financing.

Step 2 Shop around for the best interest rates. There are online websites like http://www.Bankrate.com that publish surveys and polls of loan rates across the United States. The rates of auto loans will fluctuate with the market, and they definitely differ from lender to lender. Shop around to find the lowest rate and best lending terms. Checking with local banks, credit unions and even car dealers can save you money.

Step 3 Purchasing a new car is a costly, and sometimes risky business.

Auto loans involve a lot of money, and you need to prevent any possibility of getting ripped off. Check with used car values to see how much your current vehicle is worth. Knowing your car’s value will help you to get the most money for your trade-in.

Consult a black book or research online to find the current market value of your vehicle.

Step 4 Determine how much you’re able to spend as your down payment. Providing cash up front can help you to secure an auto loan, as it proves to the lender that you’re responsible and willing to repay. It also decreases the amount of principle and interest you’ll pay throughout the term of your loan. Some lenders require a down payment of twenty percent of the vehicle price. Remember that the value of your current vehicle may be applied toward your down payment.

Step 5 Once you know the type of car you’re buying, the purchase price, the available rates and the amount of down payment you’ll need, it’s time to shop for a lender. Be careful in this step, as there are many shady lenders who are quick to hand out cash in exchange for very steep repayment amounts. Compare interest rates, the loan term (two years, three years, etc), monthly payment amounts and, of course, how much you’re able to spend. These factors will all help to determine your choice of lenders.

Step 6 Don’t panic if you don’t qualify with the first lender you choose. There are literally endless auto loan options available to you. Just be sure that you’re not living beyond your means. You may need to save a little more to come up with a bigger down payment, or simply choose a less expensive car.

Step 7 It’s easy to create a lousy credit rating, and the poor rating can hound you for a long time. If your credit rating is keeping you from securing an auto loan, you can begin working to rebuild it. Pay your bills on time, and clear up any outstanding debts. After six months, you’ll be able to reapply for a new credit rating. If this is not an option, you can choose to look into bad credit auto loans. Insurance companies that offer bad credit loans don’t require their customers to submit their credit histories, so it is possible to secure an auto loan despite poor credit. However, remember that the financer will view you as a risk, and you will pay higher rates.

Auto loans make it possible for virtually anyone to buy a new car. It’s why you see so many new vehicles on the road today. If you think you can’t afford the car of your dreams, shop around. You might be surprised at what you find.

Is it possible to own a new car, even if you don’t have $20,000 to spend? Absolutely. Auto loans make car ownership an affordable reality, and virtually anyone can arrange for financing. If you have sufficient income and a good credit rating, you will be able to choose from a selection of auto loans.

Step 1 Choose your wheels before arranging your loan. The bank or finance company will want to know what you’re buying, and how much you’ll need to borrow. Shop around by checking automotive websites and visiting local car dealers. Once you know exactly what you want to buy, you can negotiate a price with the seller. With price in hand, you’ll find it easier and faster to secure your financing.

Step 2 Shop around for the best interest rates. There are online websites like http://www.Bankrate.com that publish surveys and polls of loan rates across the United States. The rates of auto loans will fluctuate with the market, and they definitely differ from lender to lender. Shop around to find the lowest rate and best lending terms. Checking with local banks, credit unions and even car dealers can save you money.

Step 3 Purchasing a new car is a costly, and sometimes risky business.

Auto loans involve a lot of money, and you need to prevent any possibility of getting ripped off. Check with used car values to see how much your current vehicle is worth. Knowing your car’s value will help you to get the most money for your trade-in.

Consult a black book or research online to find the current market value of your vehicle.

Step 4 Determine how much you’re able to spend as your down payment. Providing cash up front can help you to secure an auto loan, as it proves to the lender that you’re responsible and willing to repay. It also decreases the amount of principle and interest you’ll pay throughout the term of your loan. Some lenders require a down payment of twenty percent of the vehicle price. Remember that the value of your current vehicle may be applied toward your down payment.

Step 5 Once you know the type of car you’re buying, the purchase price, the available rates and the amount of down payment you’ll need, it’s time to shop for a lender. Be careful in this step, as there are many shady lenders who are quick to hand out cash in exchange for very steep repayment amounts. Compare interest rates, the loan term (two years, three years, etc), monthly payment amounts and, of course, how much you’re able to spend. These factors will all help to determine your choice of lenders.

Step 6 Don’t panic if you don’t qualify with the first lender you choose. There are literally endless auto loan options available to you. Just be sure that you’re not living beyond your means. You may need to save a little more to come up with a bigger down payment, or simply choose a less expensive car.

Step 7 It’s easy to create a lousy credit rating, and the poor rating can hound you for a long time. If your credit rating is keeping you from securing an auto loan, you can begin working to rebuild it. Pay your bills on time, and clear up any outstanding debts. After six months, you’ll be able to reapply for a new credit rating. If this is not an option, you can choose to look into bad credit auto loans. Insurance companies that offer bad credit loans don’t require their customers to submit their credit histories, so it is possible to secure an auto loan despite poor credit. However, remember that the financer will view you as a risk, and you will pay higher rates.

Auto loans make it possible for virtually anyone to buy a new car. It’s why you see so many new vehicles on the road today. If you think you can’t afford the car of your dreams, shop around. You might be surprised at what you find.

If you’re a driver who is aging, it doesn’t mean you are a driver who is facing a lack of automotive insurance. Quite the contrary, if you are a driver who is aging, you could very well be facing discounts in automotive insurance.

Depending on the automotive insurance company through which you are insured, you may be eligible for various discounts. For example, many insurance companies that specialize in more than one kind of insurance will offer discounts to policyholders who purchase more than one insurance policy from them. Many people choose to purchase both their automotive insurance policies and their homeowner’s insurance policies through the same insurance company, which results in a discount in premiums.

Some insurance companies also offer discounts to aging drivers who have good driving records, and for various reasons. Drivers certain ages, usually 50 years of age and older, who have been driving for many years, are viewed as being less of a risk than new drivers – especially if they have good driving records. Aging drivers are seen as more responsible. Plus, aging drivers are less likely to go “joy riding” like younger drivers are, which puts them at less risk for traffic accidents and violations.

Aging drivers who are looking for discounts should follow the same tips as any other driver. Drive a safe car, park it in a safe location, and make sure it has anti-theft safety components. Keep traffic violations and accidents to a minimum, if not nonexistent, and try not to drive a significant number of miles more than necessary a year.

Some automotive insurance companies even offer discounts for aging drivers who participate in driving programs that the insurance companies provide, or participate in with another company. These driving programs are designed to refresh and sharpen driving skills, as well as restore defensive driving tactics.

So, the next time you worry about automotive insurance because you’re an aging driver, stop!

If you are buying a used car, you probably want to save some money. This means that you need to prioritize what is most important to you in a car. This article will help you assess your needs and your wants, so that you can find a car that suits you perfectly.

Cost

Look at the cost of a car. There is no point in window shopping at fully-loaded $40,000 trucks if you will only be able to afford a $4,000 truck in the first place. When you are establishing your budget for your car, be sure to account for how much the insurance will likely be, how much gas you will be spending (although this figure does change, it is best to go in having at least an idea), and regular maintenance. To budget for maintenance, you will need estimate the costs of 4 oil changes a year, plus some extra money just in case. Used cars are, well, used: they aren’t new are generally not under warranty. If you want a warranty, consider buying a used car from the dealership, who can often offer warranties even on used vehicles.

Suitability

What kind of driving do you do? You probably don’t need a four-wheel drive behemoth of an SUV if you do mostly city driving. Conversely, if you live on a gravel road, you might feel more comfortable driving in winter if you have something larger than a neon. For most drivers, the way that you drive a car will mean that you are open to many options. However, if this is a limiting factor, it is important to take into consideration.

If you are a commuter, then you will have to take other factors into consideration. You might not want to buy a car with a very high mileage, because you will be adding the miles to that odometer. You might want to find a car that has very comfortable seats to make your ride go better. Things that could be less important, like the stereo, become much more important when you spend a lot of time in your car each day.

Look

Some people would rather have a car that looks good or prestigious. It’s okay to admit that you are one of those people. For instance, for $3,500 you might be able to buy a 6 year old Honda civic; this same money could also buy you a much older BMW. If you value appearances, don’t lie to yourself when you are shopping. You want to get a car that you will love, and there’s no point looking at Ford Focuses if the only thing that will spark your delight is a Ford Mustang.

Load

How many people do you normally travel with? What is the most number of people that you have taken in your current car at once? If you don’t already have a car, estimate the number of people you will have with you on a regular basis. If you only drive around 7 people during the hockey tournament once a year, you can probably skip buying a minivan. However, if you normally drive three people around, it might be a pain to get a two door vehicle. For truck drivers, you will want to consider the amount of load that you generally put in the back of your truck to help you judge your purchase.

Your Loan

Not only do you want to get the right car, you want to get the right car loan. It is wiser to have your financing lined up before you go to a dealership. You can set up used car loans at any bank: but one often overlooked type of used car loan is to go to a credit union, where you can generally get lower interest than at a major bank. For more information on loans, (and we won’t even try to sell you a loan!) visit www.theguideto-carloans.com.

In the End

You will be the one driving. Make the decisions based on your needs and what you feel is right. Though it is great to get lots of advice (and sometimes it helps to take someone savvy about mechanics along with you to check out the car), considering these facts will help make you capable of choosing the right car.

Insurance—it’s everywhere. One can insure just about anything. Are tires an investment one needs to insure? Tire insurance, also called a road hazard policy, road hazard warranty, or tire reimbursement plan, is a rapidly growing industry in the automotive world.

Tire warranty plans pay in full or in part for the replacement or repair of damaged tires and/or rims from “road hazards.” Road hazards are defined as pot holes, debris, nails, wood, and other hazards found in the road. Curbs, sidewalks, and stone walls are not road hazards. This is an important distinction to consider when deciding if tire insurance is right for you (discussed further ahead).

Tire plans last for a specific period of time and tire wear tread-depth. Some plans last 2-3 years. Others can last 5 years or 60,000 miles. Several plans come with fixed amounts of coverage: $500 per year up to 4 years. Many contracts require three years of law school to comprehend. In terms of tread depth, a tire is usually considered worn out (and thus the plan null and void) at 2/32 to 3/32 of an inch.

Another important distinction is in the type of plan.

Tire reimbursement plans are just what they say. You, the plan holder, will be reimbursed after the claims process is finalized—usually 2-8 weeks. There is an out-of-pocket expense. These plans are often sold by new car dealerships. The prices can range from $300 to $600 dollars.

Road hazard policies operate similarly to reimbursement plans. However, some tire insurance providers, in partnership with the repair facility, may have a direct-pay relationship. Thus, there would be no out-of-pocket expense, except for applicable deductibles, and items not covered in part or in full. These plans are primarily sold by tire dealers and repairshops. The prices range from $10 to $30 per tire. They also can be based on a percentage of the cost of the tire: usually 12% to 15%.

Both types of plans have a number of variables, requiring a magnifying glass to read the fine print. Also, many are pro-rated warranties, covering only a percentage of the cost of the tire based on its wear.

Claims and Coverage: Depending on the plan, claims are initiated by the repair shop. The process is fairly smooth, although there can be a significant delay from the provider for authorization. This delay may be an hour or an entire weekend. This means that you’ll have to “ok” the tire replacement, and then hope it’s authorized for the full amount, or drive on your spare.

Some plans offer national coverage either among their service facilities or from other repair centers. Claims procedures will vary. Others only provide local coverage, or coverage at the selling facility.

Limitations: Tire insurance does not mean that everything is covered. Pro-rated warranties are based on the wear and tear of the tire. You may get 75%, 50%, or only 10% coverage depending on the tread-depth. You’ll pay the remainder. While there are plans that offer full coverage, even these have limitations, or they may conflict with a repair shop’s policies.

For example, many plans allow for a maximum of $30 to mount and balance one tire, and a maximum of $15 to repair a tire. However, sport tires often have significantly higher mounting and balancing fees—upwards of $50 per tire—and tire repair prices can exceed $90. There are also discrepancies on the tire and rim prices themselves, which in the end, may have to be supplemented by the service customer.

Although there usually is not an issue with the latter given the competitive market, the service center’s price mark up may be unacceptable to the plan provider. In this case, the service center needs to lower the price or you, the service customer, need to pay the difference—or go somewhere else. This does happen!

Rim Prices and Repairs: Rim replacement is becoming less frequent. With the high cost of aluminum wheels and sport wheel packages, tire insurers have opted to have them repaired. Repair will only be done if the rim does not hold air. What this means is that even if the rim is warped—enough to cause a vibration and even premature tire wear—they won’t replace it. Rather, they will send it out to be straightened and repaired.

Rims are replaced only if the damage is so extensive that the new tire, when mounted on the rim, won’t hold air. However, even in this case, especially if it’s an expensive sport wheel, they may still attempt to repair it.

Repairing rims is a bad option. While some rim repair is acceptable, badly warped or damaged rims will in no way ever be the same.

Alignments: If a car hits a road hazard hard enough, such as a pot hole, it’s wise to have the alignment checked. Road hazard policies and tire reimbursement plans do not cover alignments. The service customer will have to pay for this procedure.

Road Hazard Protection Positives: Some plans include tire rotations, wheel balancing, and nationwide coverage.

Myths:

1) “Can I pop all 4 tires and get a new set of tires?”

You can try. But this type of claim will trigger a number of red flags with the insurer. The policy holder will likely send out adjusters and/or require photographs. You will also have a difficult time explaining how a “road hazard” caused all 4 tire pop.

2) “New tires come with a road hazard warranty.”

New tires do come with a warranty by the tire manufacturer. However, it only covers defects in workmanship. New tire warranties do not cover punctures or damages from external sources. This is why “road hazard” protection is being pushed.

New tires are rarely defective. If there is a problem, it’s usually noticed when balancing the tire. Or, there is a drivability concern such as vibration or noise. If there’s a defect it’s generally caught right away, and the tire swapped out.

3) “It’s so cheap; it’s a no-brainer, right?”

Actually, the experts don’t agree with this statement.

The Economics of Tire Warranties: An article from the Washington Post by Terence O’Hara explains the economics of extended warranties and purchase protection plans in general. It is quite fitting for road hazard warranties. He writes:

“The decision to buy an extended warranty…defies the recommendations of economists, consumer advocates and product quality experts, who all warn that the plans rarely benefit consumers and are nearly always a waste of money.

‘[Extended warranties or purchase protection plans] make no rational sense,’ Harvard economist David Cutler said. ‘The implied probability [of having an issue with the product] has to be substantially greater than the risk that you can’t afford to fix it or replace it. If you’re buying a $400 item, for the overwhelming number of consumers that level of spending is not a risk you need to insure under any circumstances.’”

In short, road hazard warranties are a waste of money. Don’t insure that which you can afford to replace.

Numbers Game and Slim Chances: Like all insurance, tire insurance plans are a numbers game. However, this is a game you have a 98% chance of losing. Insider statistics show that the percentage of claims paid out by providers is as low a 2%.

Curbs: Another interesting note is that a lot of tire damage is caused by curbs. Curb damage is not covered under most road hazard policies. High granite curbs with sharp edges slice through tens of thousands of tires per year.

You Won’t Notice: Many people don’t even notice tire damage. Other than to see if the tires are holding air, who “really” looks at tires? Tires are subject to a whole host of external influences which cause bubbles, slices and gouges.

Despite the potential dangers of damaged tires, the damage very often does not translate into any noticeable drivability issue. The point is that if you don’t notice any tire damage you can’t benefit from the coverage.

Research Shows: Those raving about the benefits of a road hazard policy are the actual folks in the industry who stand to benefit from the sale. They’ll argue that it’s so cheap—only $10 to $20 per tire. Even so, for four tires, that’s $80 based on the “possibility,” the “chance,” of damaging a tire that meets the repair/replacement requirement protocols.

Auto Insurance: If a rim and tire has incurred significant damage, it’s quite likely that other problems have resulted as well. The first is that the vehicle may have been jarred out of alignment. Secondly, hub bearings, front end components: tie rods, spindles, ball joints, and a variety of other components may have sustained damage. In this case, auto insurance, which you are already paying for, will pay for everything—brand new.

Free Road Hazard Warranties: Many tires come with road hazard warranties FREE. In other words, in an effort to secure retailers, many tire distributors provide service centers FREE road hazard insurance. Some shops pass this on to their tire customers, others sell them. Ask if the tire “comes” with a road hazard protection policy. If not, request that one be provided at no additional charge. It’s worth a shot.

Also, some car manufacturers provide road hazard warranties FREE of charge for 12 months or 12,000 miles. If you’re buying a new car or even used, ask that the dealer provide a complimentary road hazard policy (after all the wheeling and dealing is done, of course), and just before you commit.

“What’s the best road hazard policy?” Money in “your” bank account.

How much insurance does one need? You have the big four: home, health, life, and car insurance. Then there’s a second category, which starts getting a little hazy with credit card insurance, purchase protection plans, fraud insurance and more. Extended warranties, also called extended service contracts, or extended service policies fall into the mist of this second category.

Extended warranties are supposed to pay (in full or in part) for specified repairs for a specific period of time after the expiration of the factory warranty. They can be a great value. They can also be a significant waste of money. It gets quite foggy in the details. What exactly is covered? How long? How much? Are there hidden charges?

There are numerous extended warranty companies and an even wider variety of warranty packages available: silver, gold, platinum, platinum-plus, and a host of other confidence-building words. What’s the best plan, and are extended service contracts worth the money? Extended warranties, like life insurance policies, are a numbers game. They’re a gamble. You pay $2500-$4500 for a 2 year, 100,000-mile protection plan and hope that you get at least that back in warranty repairs. The provider on the other hand, hopes to pay out less than it insured.

There are three major types of plan providers: The manufacturer, the dealership/third party, and third party providers. Each one has its assets and liabilities (discussed ahead).

What exactly is covered in an extended service plan? As mentioned above, what’s covered depends on the package purchased. Some plans only cover the power train: the mechanical components of the engine, transmission, and rear-end. Others cover the power train plus some electrical components. Still others cover electrical, advanced electrical, and computer components. Some only cover what’s listed in the contract. This is called a “Stated” or “Named” contract. This means that if it’s not stated, it’s not covered. Some cover bumper-to-bumper, similar to a manufacturer warranty, except trim pieces, upholstery, exterior components, cosmetic items, and a number of other exclusions.

Never before has the adage, “The devil’s in the details,” been so applicable.

Manufacturer Extended Plans: Extended service plans from the manufacturer are the best in terms of coverage, convenience, and quality. Coverage is similar to the warranty while the vehicle was under its original factory warranty—with similar exclusions stated above. The billing is direct, meaning you don’t have to pay out-of-pocket, except for a deductible, if applicable. Quality is great too, as an extended warranty from the manufacturer will only use factory parts. They also have money, so there’s less risk of bankruptcy.

The down side of manufacturer extended service plans is that they are not cheap. These plans are generally the most expensive, require low mileage standards, and necessitate servicing your vehicle at a dealer for coverage.

Dealership/Third Party Plans: Extended warranties from a dealership are actually from a third party insurer. These providers are “generally” reputable, but not always. However, if there is an issue (such as the warranty provider filing chapter 11, which is quite frequent in the extended service contract business), the dealer “may” step in to cover any repairs that would have been covered under the defunct plan. Also, claims are easier: billing is direct because the dealership has a working relationship with the provider, and there is usually agreement on price.

Some dealers set up their own “internal extended warranty,” which is honored by the selling dealer. This is rare, and should not be confused with a manufacturer warranty. Important: extended warranties are often passed off as “manufacturer” warranties. They’re not. This is a sales trick. Also be aware that there is a significant mark up, as the dealership is merely acting as the middle man. Lastly, extended warranty companies often go bankrupt without warning.

Third Party Plans: These plans are called third party plans because they are outside the responsibility of the manufacturer and the service center performing the repairs (unless there’s a working relationship with a repair shop as stated above).

There are hundreds of extended service contract companies. Some have good reputations, some don’t. Third party plans are frequently sold by used car dealers. You may also receive an official looking notification in the mail stating that your warranty is expiring, and directing you to call an 800 number ASAP. This is a marketing tactic by an independent warranty provider. Despite the “official” appearance of the postcard or envelope, it’s not from the manufacturer. Manufacturers do not send out reminders about warranty expirations.

Given the wide-variety of third party plans there are numerous red flags.

1) Claims: Extended warranty companies will be quick to tell you that filing claims is easy, and that the service center gets paid immediately via a credit card. Thus, there’s no out-of-pocket expense for you. However, the warranty company can’t dictate a service center’s policies. Some service centers will only accept payment from the repair customer. Thus the burden is on the repair customer to fill out the forms, contact their warranty company, and await reimbursement via check, which can take 2-8 weeks.

It is the service center’s responsibility to contact the extended warranty company to let them know what’s wrong with the vehicle and to check coverage. This process can take anywhere from 20 minutes to 20 days, sometimes more, depending on the degree of repairs and especially the amount. (See $1000 and Adjusters ahead)

Service centers and extended warranty companies frequently battle over the “fair” price of repairs. Many repair shops no longer negotiate, and just state the price, leaving the contract holder (i.e., the service customer) responsible for the difference.

2) Rentals: Rental coverage is a great benefit. However, there are fixed rates and time limits. In other words, the warranty company is not going to pay to have you drive a Mercedes-Benz, even if you drive a Benz. Rental allowances range from $25 to $35 per day. Also, rental coverage is based on the number of hours it takes to repair the vehicle, NOT how long your car has been at the shop.

3) $1000 and Adjusters: Repairs that approach $1000, or that require a significant amount of work, will be cause for the warranty company to call in an adjuster to confirm the diagnosis. This will delay the repairs by a minimum of 24-48 hours. It may cost you additional money when an adjuster is involved. You may be charged to have your vehicle pulled back into the shop for inspection, as well as for the time spent with the adjuster.

4) Tear-down Charges: In many cases, an extended warranty company will require that a particular component be taken apart for inspection to determine if the repair is indeed needed and covered. This puts the service customer in a very awkward position. The customer will have to authorize potentially hundreds of dollars of tear-down expense in the hopes that the repair is covered. If it’s not, the customer is out the hundreds in tear-down PLUS the actual repair. This does happen!

Common Myths:

1) “Extended warranties cover maintenance services and brake work.”

No. Extended warranty plans do not cover maintenance or wearable items. Brake pads and rotors are wearable parts. Maintenance such as coolant, brake and transmission flushes, tune-ups, services, oil changes, bulbs, wipers, and more are not covered.

2) “They told me it’s bumper-to-bumper, so it covers everything right?”

Wrong. Not even a factory warranty covers everything. When pitching the sale for the extended warranty, one is very often lead to believe that he or she will have nothing to worry about. This is just not true on so many levels. For example, if your bumper falls off it’s not covered.

3) “I don’t have to pay anything, right?”

Wrong. Despite the claims of 100% coverage, there are many factors involved. The labor rates, labor hours, diagnostic times, parts prices, and machine work are just a few items that often conflict with a service center’s policies. Some extended contracts only pay a maximum of $55 per hour, and only allow one half hour for diagnostic time. This is generally unacceptable to the service center, as labor rates have skyrocketed to over $100 per hour at many dealerships, and average $75 at local shops. Moreover, with the complexity of today’s vehicles, diagnostic time is at a premium. The customer pays the difference.

4) “If I have an expensive problem, I can just purchase an extended service contract.”

It’s unethical, but it’s an option many attempt. However, most service contracts have a minimum time requirement before the first claim can be filed: usually three months. Also, many contracts require that your vehicle be inspected by a service center to check for pre-existing conditions—just like life insurance.

5) “My contract lasts up to 100,000 miles.”

Only if the time limit doesn’t run out first. All extended warranty plans have a time limit. For example, a typical contract will state that the vehicle is covered for two years or 100,000 miles, which ever comes first. During the sales pitch, however, the emphasis will be on the 100,000 miles, not the time.

6) “If my car breaks, it gets fixed like new.” Actually, depending on the contract, an extended warranty company can insist on installing remanufactured or even used parts.

Items commonly not covered by extended warranties: • Any component with a pre-existing condition • Any component related to a Technical Service Bulletin (TSB) • Many components that has been updated by the manufacturer • Extra components necessary “due to manufacturer updates” to complete the repair • Trim pieces: molding, cup holders, dashboard, console, body parts, glass • Many accessories: radios, DVD players, TVs • Many expensive electronics: climate control units, navigation assemblies

Service contract positives: Some service contracts are transferable, and may thus increase the resale value of a vehicle. Many come with trip interruption reimbursement, towing and 24-hour road side. Some plans can also be financed, or have E-Z Pay Plans. Others offer a money-back guarantee.

What should you do? You’ll get lots of advice about doing the research, comparing plans, and reading the fine print. This is all sound advice. But what about doing the math?

Let’s say a plan costs $2500 for 2 years or 100,000 miles, whichever comes first. To break even you’ll need a minimum of $1250 per year in covered repairs, excluding regular maintenance. Remember covered is the vital word here.

Another way to break it down is to anticipate having to pay $104.17 per month over the next two years in “covered” repairs. Do you want to take that bet?

What could happen? You could double your money or more in repair work. You could conceivably get a new engine and transmission (or used ones anyway). You could also easily spend $2500 for a service contract, and still have to pay another $2500 for repairs, which for a variety of reasons, were not covered under your plan. Now you’re out $5000.

Alternatively, you could keep the initial $2500. In many ways all an extended warranty does is prepay for repairs. You could stick the money in the bank and collect interest. Then you could withdraw the money for repairs as needed.

Another consideration that’s rarely discussed is the cause of the problems. Many car repairs problems are the result of wear and tear, neglected maintenance, physical damage, or acts of God—such as flood damage. None of this is covered. The gamble only covers failed components.

If the vehicle you’re driving does cost $2500 to $4500 in repairs due to outright failed components, is it a vehicle you even want to consider keeping? A vehicle that needs this kind of repair work due to mechanical, electrical, or computer failures may not be worth it. The $2500-$4500 would be better spent on an upgrade to a quality vehicle rather than insuring a lemon.

There’s no question that auto repair is expensive, and even quality cars break from time to time. But do they breakdown to the tune of $2500-$4500? That’s a hefty bet on a “possibility.”

Terence O’Hara from the Washington Post makes an excellent assessment about extended warranties in general. He writes:

…extended warranties play upon a basic human trait to avoid loss, even if it means sacrificing a possible future gain…the gain is all the other things of value that a consumer could buy with the money that was spent on a warranty

What’s the best plan? Money in your bank account!

Americans are a busy group of people, and once we take care of something, such as purchasing automotive insurance, we tend to forget about it and move on to the next task. However, purchasing an automotive insurance policy only to neglect it could end up costing you more money in the long run, or even leaving you unprotected. There are times in our lives when we need to stop and evaluate our current automotive insurance policies.

Reconsider your automotive insurance policy when you get married. When two people get married, they can get an automotive insurance policy together, thus spending less money and possibly even getting additional discounts.

Reconsider your automotive insurance policy if you purchase a new car. If you’ve borrowed money from a lender to purchase your new car, chances are your lender will require you to purchase full coverage insurance. Even if your lender doesn’t, your state most likely will. If your automotive insurance policy only covers liability because you own one of your cars, or the car you traded in, you need to increase the coverage of your automotive insurance policy.

Reconsider your automotive insurance policy if you relocate. If you currently live in a quaint little country town that sees very little wrongdoing aside from the occasional cow-tipping, you probably don’t have a very high amount of automotive insurance. However, if you’re moving to a larger city with a higher crime rate, your car will be more at risk and you should make sure you add the extra coverage.

Reconsider your automotive insurance policy if you’re getting on in years. Most insurance companies offer discounts to policyholders who are a certain age – usually 55 years old. If this is you, give your agent a call and find out about discounts you may qualify for.

Remember, certain tasks are worth completing and forgetting. Taking out the trash is one of them; purchasing automotive insurance is not.