Honda has come up with the most amazing 4-wheel-drive system, not for off-roaders but to improve the handling and stability of fast cars. It is being used first in the new Acura RL (Honda Legend).

Why is it so advanced? This SH-AWD system has the potential to increase cornering power and cornering safety by leaps and bounds. It will be ideal for supercars as well as luxury coupes.(More information about supercars at http://www.fast-autos.com/supercars.html )

First, it allows the amount of power sent to the wheels to be varied from 30% front and 70% rear to 70% front and 30% rear. True, some other systems get near that, but this allows the system to adjust itself to completely different conditions. On top of that, it can alter the torque from zero to 100% to the left or right rear wheel.

In other words, all the power can one to the right wheel one minute, and if necessary can be reversed so that all the power goes to the other wheel in an instant. This might be needed in slushy or snowy conditions, where there was a patch of bare road for a bit on one side offering good grip, but a bit later on a bare patch on the other side.

In addition to those features, the outer rear wheel can be speeded up so that it goes faster than the inside wheel! All done continuously depending on conditions. A few years ago this would have considered desirable, but science fiction.

More power to the rear wheel for acceleration

Confused? Well, let’s start with the front-to-rear power. When you accelerate, the weight of the car is thrown on to the back wheels by the force of acceleration, so you want more power to go to the back wheels - if it all goes to the front you get wheelspin. When cornering, you generally want as much or more power to the rear wheels. SH-AWD does that.

On the other hand, when you are cruising along, you want more power to the front wheels as this increases stability. SH-AWD also does that.

More power to outer rear wheel for better cornering

The side-to-side variation in power is used to improve cornering power and stability. For example, when you accelerate through a corner, extra power through the outer rear wheel counteracts understeer, letting the car corner on rails. In fact, stability control systems used on many cars now do this by reducing the amount of torque sent to the inner wheel - this means that you actually corner slower than you could do. SH-AWD lets you corner faster.

On the over-run, you don’t need that, and less power is sent through the outer wheel for optimum stability. But that isn’t enough because when a car corners, the outer wheels have to travel further than the inner ones - by 5-10% on very tight corners, so the outer wheel normally goes slower.

Honda overcomes this with some gears in the back axle gear set which actually drive the outer wheel faster when cornering! This improves maneuverability and cornering at low speeds.

Electro-magnetic multi-plate clutches

All this is accomplished by multi-plate clutches operated electro-magnetically - a world first - and the gear/clutch set used for acceleration. In fact, these gears also serve as the rear differential.

An advantage of the electro-magnetic clutches is that the electronic controller does not need to control a hydraulic actuation system as used normally but an electric actuator - this reduces cost and weight.

Is this the best thing since sliced bread? For the person who wants to have stability and control, and doesn’t want to know what is happening to the car -yes. Such a system is bound to reduce the input the driver gets from the road.

He will be less aware of whether the surface is slippery, or whether the car is understeering more than usual because the SH-AWD system is correcting things all the time.

DIESELS are still gaining popularity in Europe, thanks to low gas mileage and good performance. The latest diesel cars can take on gasoline engined cars and come out on top!

All turbocharged diesels generate much more torque than gasoline engines, so you get better mid-range acceleration. In other words, from, say, 40-80 mph, a good diesel will see off a good gasoline engine car of the same apparent performance.

Jaguar has introduced a special version of a V-6 2.7 liter diesel that has been developed in Europe jointly by Ford and Peugeot. This is the most advanced diesel around at present, with the brand-new piezo-electric injector operation, the latest common rail injection system and twin turbochargers.

PIEZO-ELECTRIC INJECTORS

What are piezo-electric injectors? Cunning little ceramic devices, and when an electric current is applied they produce a pressure, and so can be used to force fuel into the cylinders. The thing is that they can be operated four times faster than other electro-mechanical injectors so the injector can be opened and closed incredibly quickly. Also, the amount of movement is very small, and you get less noise that you get from mechanical injectors.

Like I said, very cunning, and they all go with high pressure injection to give high power, low noise, emissions and gas mileage. It’s developments like these that mean we’ll have some diesels in Fast-Autos soon - but not a lot!

As a result, the fuel is injected at horrendously high pressures with incredible accuracy. The result? Masses of power, and almost no smoke, the weakness of old-fashioned oil burners, like the dreadful engines GM introduced about 20 years ago.

This new Jaguar S-Type diesel, develops 206 bhp so it lives up to the Jaguar tradition of high performance. Maximum torque is 320 lb ft (430 Nm) which is more than the 4.2 liter gasoline engine can manage without a turbocharger. Although performance is not sensational, it is definitely not what you’d expect from a diesel.

The Jag diesel will push the S-Type automatic up to 60 mph in about 8 seconds, and top speed is 140 mph. You’ll get the idea that Jag regards this as a sporty engine from the fact that it has a six-speed manual or automatic box - both are supplied by ZF. Of course, the most powerful S-Type is the S-Type R.

BMW HAS AN EVEN MORE POWERFUL DIESEL

BMW is also ready with a very powerful 3.0 liter diesel engine which turns out 272 bhp, which would be considered very nice thank you from most makers of 3.0 liter gasoline engines - Ford’s top version of its nice 3.0 liter V-6 develops 225 bhp. BMW uses twin-stage turbocharging to get this much power. In this system, one small turbocharger provides power at low speeds, and a bigger turbo is matched to high speed requirement. It is switched in when the speed and load increase sufficiently, and so can generate as much power as a gasoline engine of the same size.

If that is not enough power consider the latest news. Audi is racing diesel-powered cars at the Le Mans 24-hour race! These V-12 engines develop more than 600 bhp, and will challenge the best gasoline engined sports-racing cars.

Different states in the US follow different motorcycle helmet laws that cater to their own residents and constituents. Motorcycle helmet law has been instituted to provide safety and protection to motorcycle riders from different states.

But the helmet law being followed in one state may not be the same as those followed in another. There are even other states that do not have their own laws governing the proper use of motorcycle helmets. There are currently 4 states that do not have their own motorcycle helmet law.

These are Colorado, Illinois, Iowa, and New Hampshire. Of the other 46 states, 20 of them follow full helmet law for all riders in their territory to follow. They are Alabama, California, Georgia, Louisiana, Maryland, Massachusetts, Michigan, Mississippi, Missouri, Nebraska, Nevada, New Jersey, New York, North Carolina, Oregon, Tennessee, Vermont, Virginia, Washington and West Virginia. But each of these states’ motorcycle helmet laws may have differing definitions on what constitutes a safety helmet.

In the other remaining states, 19 have helmet laws that exempt adult riders. These are usually those riders who are 18 years old and over. These are the states of Alaska, Arizona, Connecticut, Delaware, Hawaii, Idaho, Indiana, Kansas, Maine, Minnesota, Montana, New Mexico, North Dakota, Ohio, Oklahoma, South Dakota, Utah, Wisconsin and Wyoming.

There are seven states that require adult bikers at the ages of 18 and 20 to still wear helmets while riding their motorcycles. These states are Arkansas, Florida, Kentucky, Pennsylvania, Rhode Island, South Carolina, and Texas.

It is on these states that some bikers think that they are being discriminated upon because of the requirement for riders between 18 and 20 years old. But some motorcycle riders just would want to rid themselves of having to don their helmets while riding their motorcycles. But these riders should realize that helmets are there for their safety and protection.

Many motorcycle accidents have lessened rider mortalities, thanks to the protection offered by motorcycle helmets. DOT approved motorcycle helmets can help protect your head, most especially your brain from life threatening injuries in case of accidents. Your head is one of the most important parts of your body to protect while on a motorcycle because it houses the fragile brain.

Although your skull protects it, sudden jolts and stops can easily injure it. Such injuries can make your brain to swell due to internal bleeding and inflammation. And when it swells, it would not have enough space inside the skull for the extra volume and will bring more damage to some other very vital regions like the eyes.

Outside of the United States, there has been a widespread ban on car radar detectors. However, this is not a new motion. In Canada and in many European countries, radar detectors have been illegal for some time now because of the fact that they would normally allow motorists to break the law until the mildly annoying beeping noise notified them of police presence.

In that case, the motorist would quickly slow down to the proper speed and nobody ever had to know that they had been driving 50 Kmph over the speed limit.

The radar detector would notify the motorist in plenty of time before the police caught them on their radar. It seemed like the perfect crime. However, radar detectors were soon outlawed. Some police organizations also fitted their radar with a detector that would detect… well… radar detectors.

In other words, they developed a radar-detector detector. For the most part, this made it nearly impossible to use one and get away with it. Now the word on the street is, why are radar detectors banned? What is so bad about them?

The counter-argument to those who advocate use of the radar detector is simple. The anti-radar detector group believed that motorists who use radar detectors pose a greater risk on the road than those who do not use them. At first glance, you may be inclined to agree with the anti-radar detector group simply because those using radar detectors would be more likely to drive faster, therefore increasing the risk of accident.

However, the 2001 Mori Report tells us that those drivers using a radar detector actually pose 28% less risk than those who do not use them. Interestingly, this may point to the fact that those drivers who drive at or under the speed limit pose as great of a risk of accident, if not more, than those who drive over the speed limit.

In Canada, the car radar detector is illegal in all provinces and territories except Alberta and Saskatchewan. It was legal in most provinces until the late 1980’s and early 1990’s.

How much insurance does one need? You have the big four: home, health, life, and car insurance. Then there’s a second category, which starts getting a little hazy with credit card insurance, purchase protection plans, fraud insurance and more. Extended warranties, also called extended service contracts, or extended service policies fall into the mist of this second category.

Extended warranties are supposed to pay (in full or in part) for specified repairs for a specific period of time after the expiration of the factory warranty. They can be a great value. They can also be a significant waste of money. It gets quite foggy in the details. What exactly is covered? How long? How much? Are there hidden charges?

There are numerous extended warranty companies and an even wider variety of warranty packages available: silver, gold, platinum, platinum-plus, and a host of other confidence-building words. What’s the best plan, and are extended service contracts worth the money? Extended warranties, like life insurance policies, are a numbers game. They’re a gamble. You pay $2500-$4500 for a 2 year, 100,000-mile protection plan and hope that you get at least that back in warranty repairs. The provider on the other hand, hopes to pay out less than it insured.

There are three major types of plan providers: The manufacturer, the dealership/third party, and third party providers. Each one has its assets and liabilities (discussed ahead).

What exactly is covered in an extended service plan? As mentioned above, what’s covered depends on the package purchased. Some plans only cover the power train: the mechanical components of the engine, transmission, and rear-end. Others cover the power train plus some electrical components. Still others cover electrical, advanced electrical, and computer components. Some only cover what’s listed in the contract. This is called a “Stated” or “Named” contract. This means that if it’s not stated, it’s not covered. Some cover bumper-to-bumper, similar to a manufacturer warranty, except trim pieces, upholstery, exterior components, cosmetic items, and a number of other exclusions.

Never before has the adage, “The devil’s in the details,” been so applicable.

Manufacturer Extended Plans: Extended service plans from the manufacturer are the best in terms of coverage, convenience, and quality. Coverage is similar to the warranty while the vehicle was under its original factory warranty—with similar exclusions stated above. The billing is direct, meaning you don’t have to pay out-of-pocket, except for a deductible, if applicable. Quality is great too, as an extended warranty from the manufacturer will only use factory parts. They also have money, so there’s less risk of bankruptcy.

The down side of manufacturer extended service plans is that they are not cheap. These plans are generally the most expensive, require low mileage standards, and necessitate servicing your vehicle at a dealer for coverage.

Dealership/Third Party Plans: Extended warranties from a dealership are actually from a third party insurer. These providers are “generally” reputable, but not always. However, if there is an issue (such as the warranty provider filing chapter 11, which is quite frequent in the extended service contract business), the dealer “may” step in to cover any repairs that would have been covered under the defunct plan. Also, claims are easier: billing is direct because the dealership has a working relationship with the provider, and there is usually agreement on price.

Some dealers set up their own “internal extended warranty,” which is honored by the selling dealer. This is rare, and should not be confused with a manufacturer warranty. Important: extended warranties are often passed off as “manufacturer” warranties. They’re not. This is a sales trick. Also be aware that there is a significant mark up, as the dealership is merely acting as the middle man. Lastly, extended warranty companies often go bankrupt without warning.

Third Party Plans: These plans are called third party plans because they are outside the responsibility of the manufacturer and the service center performing the repairs (unless there’s a working relationship with a repair shop as stated above).

There are hundreds of extended service contract companies. Some have good reputations, some don’t. Third party plans are frequently sold by used car dealers. You may also receive an official looking notification in the mail stating that your warranty is expiring, and directing you to call an 800 number ASAP. This is a marketing tactic by an independent warranty provider. Despite the “official” appearance of the postcard or envelope, it’s not from the manufacturer. Manufacturers do not send out reminders about warranty expirations.

Given the wide-variety of third party plans there are numerous red flags.

1) Claims: Extended warranty companies will be quick to tell you that filing claims is easy, and that the service center gets paid immediately via a credit card. Thus, there’s no out-of-pocket expense for you. However, the warranty company can’t dictate a service center’s policies. Some service centers will only accept payment from the repair customer. Thus the burden is on the repair customer to fill out the forms, contact their warranty company, and await reimbursement via check, which can take 2-8 weeks.

It is the service center’s responsibility to contact the extended warranty company to let them know what’s wrong with the vehicle and to check coverage. This process can take anywhere from 20 minutes to 20 days, sometimes more, depending on the degree of repairs and especially the amount. (See $1000 and Adjusters ahead)

Service centers and extended warranty companies frequently battle over the “fair” price of repairs. Many repair shops no longer negotiate, and just state the price, leaving the contract holder (i.e., the service customer) responsible for the difference.

2) Rentals: Rental coverage is a great benefit. However, there are fixed rates and time limits. In other words, the warranty company is not going to pay to have you drive a Mercedes-Benz, even if you drive a Benz. Rental allowances range from $25 to $35 per day. Also, rental coverage is based on the number of hours it takes to repair the vehicle, NOT how long your car has been at the shop.

3) $1000 and Adjusters: Repairs that approach $1000, or that require a significant amount of work, will be cause for the warranty company to call in an adjuster to confirm the diagnosis. This will delay the repairs by a minimum of 24-48 hours. It may cost you additional money when an adjuster is involved. You may be charged to have your vehicle pulled back into the shop for inspection, as well as for the time spent with the adjuster.

4) Tear-down Charges: In many cases, an extended warranty company will require that a particular component be taken apart for inspection to determine if the repair is indeed needed and covered. This puts the service customer in a very awkward position. The customer will have to authorize potentially hundreds of dollars of tear-down expense in the hopes that the repair is covered. If it’s not, the customer is out the hundreds in tear-down PLUS the actual repair. This does happen!

Common Myths:

1) “Extended warranties cover maintenance services and brake work.”

No. Extended warranty plans do not cover maintenance or wearable items. Brake pads and rotors are wearable parts. Maintenance such as coolant, brake and transmission flushes, tune-ups, services, oil changes, bulbs, wipers, and more are not covered.

2) “They told me it’s bumper-to-bumper, so it covers everything right?”

Wrong. Not even a factory warranty covers everything. When pitching the sale for the extended warranty, one is very often lead to believe that he or she will have nothing to worry about. This is just not true on so many levels. For example, if your bumper falls off it’s not covered.

3) “I don’t have to pay anything, right?”

Wrong. Despite the claims of 100% coverage, there are many factors involved. The labor rates, labor hours, diagnostic times, parts prices, and machine work are just a few items that often conflict with a service center’s policies. Some extended contracts only pay a maximum of $55 per hour, and only allow one half hour for diagnostic time. This is generally unacceptable to the service center, as labor rates have skyrocketed to over $100 per hour at many dealerships, and average $75 at local shops. Moreover, with the complexity of today’s vehicles, diagnostic time is at a premium. The customer pays the difference.

4) “If I have an expensive problem, I can just purchase an extended service contract.”

It’s unethical, but it’s an option many attempt. However, most service contracts have a minimum time requirement before the first claim can be filed: usually three months. Also, many contracts require that your vehicle be inspected by a service center to check for pre-existing conditions—just like life insurance.

5) “My contract lasts up to 100,000 miles.”

Only if the time limit doesn’t run out first. All extended warranty plans have a time limit. For example, a typical contract will state that the vehicle is covered for two years or 100,000 miles, which ever comes first. During the sales pitch, however, the emphasis will be on the 100,000 miles, not the time.

6) “If my car breaks, it gets fixed like new.” Actually, depending on the contract, an extended warranty company can insist on installing remanufactured or even used parts.

Items commonly not covered by extended warranties: • Any component with a pre-existing condition • Any component related to a Technical Service Bulletin (TSB) • Many components that has been updated by the manufacturer • Extra components necessary “due to manufacturer updates” to complete the repair • Trim pieces: molding, cup holders, dashboard, console, body parts, glass • Many accessories: radios, DVD players, TVs • Many expensive electronics: climate control units, navigation assemblies

Service contract positives: Some service contracts are transferable, and may thus increase the resale value of a vehicle. Many come with trip interruption reimbursement, towing and 24-hour road side. Some plans can also be financed, or have E-Z Pay Plans. Others offer a money-back guarantee.

What should you do? You’ll get lots of advice about doing the research, comparing plans, and reading the fine print. This is all sound advice. But what about doing the math?

Let’s say a plan costs $2500 for 2 years or 100,000 miles, whichever comes first. To break even you’ll need a minimum of $1250 per year in covered repairs, excluding regular maintenance. Remember covered is the vital word here.

Another way to break it down is to anticipate having to pay $104.17 per month over the next two years in “covered” repairs. Do you want to take that bet?

What could happen? You could double your money or more in repair work. You could conceivably get a new engine and transmission (or used ones anyway). You could also easily spend $2500 for a service contract, and still have to pay another $2500 for repairs, which for a variety of reasons, were not covered under your plan. Now you’re out $5000.

Alternatively, you could keep the initial $2500. In many ways all an extended warranty does is prepay for repairs. You could stick the money in the bank and collect interest. Then you could withdraw the money for repairs as needed.

Another consideration that’s rarely discussed is the cause of the problems. Many car repairs problems are the result of wear and tear, neglected maintenance, physical damage, or acts of God—such as flood damage. None of this is covered. The gamble only covers failed components.

If the vehicle you’re driving does cost $2500 to $4500 in repairs due to outright failed components, is it a vehicle you even want to consider keeping? A vehicle that needs this kind of repair work due to mechanical, electrical, or computer failures may not be worth it. The $2500-$4500 would be better spent on an upgrade to a quality vehicle rather than insuring a lemon.

There’s no question that auto repair is expensive, and even quality cars break from time to time. But do they breakdown to the tune of $2500-$4500? That’s a hefty bet on a “possibility.”

Terence O’Hara from the Washington Post makes an excellent assessment about extended warranties in general. He writes:

…extended warranties play upon a basic human trait to avoid loss, even if it means sacrificing a possible future gain…the gain is all the other things of value that a consumer could buy with the money that was spent on a warranty

What’s the best plan? Money in your bank account!

The advice is all the same for auto repair scam prevention. You’ll be told to find an ASE certified shop. Ask around. Check out several different repair facilities first. Are they clean and neat? Do they provide written estimates? Check with the BBB. Is it AAA certified? Some will even advise to “ask for the parts back.”

Traditional tips and suggestions merely put a band-aid over an infected, gaping sore. Strong antibiotics are required to address the root source of the problems in the repair industry. To provide repair customers with the above advice is like sending a soldier into combat dressed in a pink tutu. We have to stop scratching at the surface.

There has not been any “new” advice in decades. More importantly, no one has answered why car repair scams have reached an estimated 40 billion dollars per year. Moreover, why is there still no solution to stop car repair scams?

The first hurdle to conquer is the perception of the frequency of auto repair scams. Many folks just don’t believe that car repair fraud is all that bad. Some even argue that the vast majority of repair shops do an honest day’s work, and that a few bad apples are making the rest look like crooks.

This is an interesting argument, and raises a number of questions.

1) If it is only a few “bad apples,” where are they hiding the 40 billion? 2) If most repair shops are honest, why does every state warn against car repair scams? 3) Why are auto repair shops at the top of consumer complaint lists every single year, in every state?

This is even expanding across the continents. For example, just last week Australia listed car repair scams at number 4 on their top 10 consumer complaint list.

The perception of frequency gets distorted because there are a number of levels to repair scams. There are the blatant rip-offs covered in the news. For a great video visit “Repair Scams Caught on Video” @ www.repairtrust.com. Then there are the common scams such as exorbitant prices and estimates, and aggressive scare tactics to get service customers to perform services. These occur every day.

The repair scams uncovered by RepairTrust not only found the tactics listed above and more, but a powerful undercurrent of scamming at the foundation of the automotive service industry.

In reality, most car repair scams go unnoticed by the service consumer. Service customers just have no idea that they were ripped-off. This under-the-radar scamming occurs in dealerships, local shops, and franchises. Affiliation with ASE, AAA, BBB, NADA makes no difference.

An ASE patch on a technician’s arm, or an AAA or BBB sticker on the door of a service center means absolutely nothing in terms of a scam-free facility. Word of mouth recommendations can be just as devastating, as even shops that “seem” honest aren’t.

Check out “Car Repair Prices: There Are No Honest Mechanics” @ Isnare or RepairTrust for further discussion on this. Also, for NEW and FREE scam prevention tips visit the Car Repair Scam Articles @ RepairTrust.

Traditional tips are ineffective in today’s service industry. Service facilities have found new and ingenious ways of ripping people off. In truth, many of the old tips and suggestions have actually become weapons allowing service centers to indulge in car repair scams more than ever.

The car repair playing field must be leveled. Service customers need solid answers, and they need to be equipped with information, understanding, tools, and an insider’s view of the who, what, when, where, why, and how of price-gouging.

Navigating the dim underworld of today’s service centers with outdated information will cost a fortune.

The other day I was riding and found myself in a road paving project area. This was a project on a 4-lane road with 1/2 of the two lanes on my side paved… and the other 1/2 getting prepared for paving to continue. The problem is that the 1/2 that was paved was the left lane and this caused a height difference "ridge" of approximately 1 - 2 inches of asphalt between the two lanes (of course I was in the right "low-side" lane).

This wouldn’t have been a problem if I could have stayed in the lane I was in… but once into the paving area all cars had to merge from the right to the left lane. Speeds on this road were about 40 miles per hour and on a normal motorcycle this would have been scary enough! On a chopper (let alone a wide rear tire) it was one of the scariest things I have had to do. In the moment before the transition I tried to slow down as much as I could in the "bumper to bumper" traffic, gripped the handlebars firmly, and then once there was an opening in the traffic to move over I tried to make the "cut" at as sharp of an angle as was possible.

Let me just say that "I made it" but it was really an unstable situation for a few seconds. It made me remember why Driver Education schools teach you that "if your tire goes off the road… stay off the road and slow way down… and then sharply turn back on when there is a safe margin to do so" and that is in a 4-wheel CAR!

I think that was the closest I have come to "going down" on a bike in over 20 years… so, I am writing this down so I don’t forget. When you have to cross over and onto a ridge that is running parallel to your path of travel:

Slow down as much as possible (I didn’t do this enough). Get a large safety margin between other traffic (Wait for a large opening). Get a firm grip on the handlebars. Try to cross-over the ridge at a strong angle (don’t try to ease up on the ridge). I didn’t do any of these things very well and it almost ended in a crash. For me, my biggest mistake was #1… so next time I am faced with this I will be sure to slow down much more and get a better angle on the ridge.

Ride safe! Ron

When you get car insurance quote online from an insurance company, always keep in mind to compare it with quotes issued by other companies with the same car insurance policy features. However, since this is a challenging task, with results often being prone to mistakes and miscalculations, here are some tips that can help you simplify the process.

The first thing you need to do when you get car insurance quote online is to assess your current auto insurance policy, and consider every feature it incorporates, such as limits for property, bodily injury, uninsured motorist and underinsured motorist; what the deductibles are; if you’re willing to pay for towing and rental care reimbursement; and if you have comprehensive coverage or just collision.

Determine if you are still going to need those features in your car insurance, and make note of any changes. For example, there’s no point opting for comprehensive coverage on an old car that has severely decreased in value. Therefore, getting only collision coverage might be able to save you a few hundred dollars on your car insurance premium.

Your second, particularly important step when you get car insurance quote online is to gather specific information about your cars, and the people who drive them. Be prepared to list down information regarding:

1. Drivers license and Social Security Numbers for each driver 2. Year, make and model of each vehicle to be insured 3. Average mileage for each day, and whether it’s used for business or pleasure 4. Safety features such as Anti-lock Brakes (ABS), alarms, air bags etc for each vehicle

Always make an effort to get at least three or more car insurance online quotes for your auto insurance from various sources, because rates are liable to differ between car insurance companies. Put down each online quote on the same sheet of paper, along with comments for each company you’ve listed.

When looking for a cheap car insurance quote online, you must also bear in mind the importance of good value, such as financial stability, fast claims service and good customer service. When you’ve tracked down the car insurance quote online that meet your requirements, keep it under scrutiny for a couple of days in order to be certain that you’ve got the right insurance coverage for your car.

Don’t hesitate to ask a lot of questions if you’re doing business with an agent or representative, who could probably be able to help you save a decent amount on your insurance. It’s also always a good idea to check if there’s a customer service contact on the insurer’s website when you get car insurance quote online.

Outgoing 4×4 down in price by £2,000

HONDA is gearing up to drive a curvy all-new CR-V into competition against the latest generation Freelander from Land Rover - and now’s the time to buy if you fancy the model it replaces.

To clear stocks, the manufacturer has reduced the prices of most current versions by £2,000 and is also offering two other incentives to buyers.

Robert Fletcher, the franchise manager at Lookers Honda at Sir Frank Whittle Road, Derby, says that buyers can also choose either an accessory pack worth £1,200 or a £750 deposit allowance in the case of a personal contract purchase.

Extras in the accessory pack deal includes running boards and reversing sensors.

The price cuts apply to all Sport and Executive versions of the 4×4 but not the SE examples. The price cut means that the petrol-engined, 2.0-litre Sport is down from £19,225 to £17,255 while the diesel-engined 2.2i-CTYDi Executive can be yours for just over £21,000.

Says, Jeff Dodds, head of marketing for Honda (UK): “This is a superb chance for customers to get their hands on a CR-V for a lot less.

“It’s a car that’s dominated the petrol SUV market for years and continues to pick up awards for its impeccable road manners - and remember, it’s built in Britain!”

Added Robert: “It’s a cracking offer and we have a good range in stock.”

According to the company, there are no catches or difficult to understand clauses to worry about.

Robert is looking forward to taking delivery of the new CR-V.

“It looks a superb vehicle and is a good evolution of the current model,” he says.

Like the latest Land Rover, the stylish new CR-V, on sale from January, represents a drive upmarket, with Honda saying that it mirrors an executive saloon in the way it drives.

Improved equipment levels and Honda’s latest advanced safety technology will add to its appeal, along with increased towing capacity.

Ready to hit the road and have some fun? A small recreational vehicle might be the perfect choice for you. The phrase "small recreational vehicle" describes a vehicle created with one purpose in mind: to have fun. One might consider go-carts, off-road motorcycles, ATVs and jet skis to fit the bill. While these examples are certainly fun, they are not really small recreational vehicles.

Fifth wheel campers and pop-up trailer campers are true examples of small recreational vehicles. They offer the comforts of home while you are the freedom of the open road. You probably wouldn’t be terribly comfortable sleeping on a motorcycle, or cooking breakfast in a go-cart.

With each new camper introduced, designs have improved and space has expended. As a result, traditional small group or family campers are moving away from the "small" category. Although today’s small models are still the best choice for family trips, new design enhancements allow greater comfort and flexibility, without forcing the user into maneuvering a monstrosity akin to an NFL team bus or rock star tour bus.

The lasting appeal of small recreational vehicles lies in their portability and readiness, rather than the amount of cargo they can carry. With just a few hours preparation, a small recreational vehicle is transported into a home away from home, while you’re away from home. Small recreational vehicles are perfect for the "get up and go" types of travelers that don’t like a lot of planning and preparation. They offer nearly as much freedom and flexibility as a tent, with firm walls and a ceiling to give added security and protection from the elements. After exploring new surroundings, a small recreational vehicle offers a cozy place to return and rest up before the next big adventure.

One could argue that pop-up campers and trailer campers aren’t true small recreational vehicles, because they don’t provide the recreation. They do however make it possible to find your recreation in more places and in more ways than you might imagine. You can travel the country in your small recreational vehicle and see more of the world–instead of watching the world pass you by.